100 series factory Aux tank

rusty_tlc

Explorer
I did a quick drawing of the bracket. There will be M8x1.25 nuts welded in the three holes.
 

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rusty_tlc

Explorer
I started fabbing these bracket Sunday. 0.50 inch holes are just a tad to small and 0.0625 is a tad to big. I need something like 0.5625.


I also finally was able to place the order for the dual filler neck. I didn't get the 80 series flapper one, instead I got the 100 series "Y" style. I'm hoping it will fit with no finageling.
 

locrwln

Expedition Leader
Can't help you on the drill bit, but glad to hear that the dual filler neck has been ordered.

So that should put you on track to finish this thing, what sometime at the end of this year or first part of next year.:wings:


Jack
 

rusty_tlc

Explorer
I found a really cool momentary switch with a blue led built in.
Since the weather is crappy I think I may get some quality bench time this weekend.

I guess I'll be spending some of it ohm-ing out wires.:smilies27:
 
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locrwln

Expedition Leader
This coming from a guy who doesn't even drink coffee.

NTTAWWT

Who me???:sombrero:

Remember, ********** talking has absolutely nothing to do with the facts.

Ok, been around the web for a while and I have no idea what your abbreviation means. Haven't ever seen that one before.

Jack
 

rusty_tlc

Explorer
Who me???:sombrero:

Remember, ********** talking has absolutely nothing to do with the facts.

Ok, been around the web for a while and I have no idea what your abbreviation means. Haven't ever seen that one before.

Jack
Not That Theres Anything Wrong With That.

Remember the Seinfeld episode about gays?

Next time your in town I need to see if the 80 series and 100 series use the same size switches.
 

rusty_tlc

Explorer
Plumbing

I was crawling aorund under the 100 this weekend. After consulting the drawings Spresso posted I located the main tank fuel pump outlet and return lines, thanks Dan. They are very easy to access, you can see where the solenoid valve and Tee would bolt up in a factory sub tank install.


My idea is to cut into the main tank return line with a tee and connect the sub tank pump outlet through a check valve. Actually there is a 90° connector where the factory sub tank install would have a TEE, it looks like it might have a check valve in it already, simple enough to check when I take it out. The sub tank fuel return line will be plugged. The breather and fill connections will be normal.

Comments or suggestions?
 

hoser

Explorer
It sounds like you are going with a transfer system. I don't know exactly how your OEM filler looks like but this is how mine is set-up.

The black hose with the fuel filter on it is coming from the Aux tank and behind the fender is the aux fuel pump. The small 1/4" black line at the top of the filler neck is coming from the fuel pump and feeds the main tank filler. As you can see, when the main tank reaches full, the fuel just pours over back into the aux tank filler (rear one). The clear hoses are just the breather for both tanks.

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rusty_tlc

Explorer
Yes, I'm going with a transfer system. Not being the brightest bulb on the tree I thought KISS would be the best way.

The in-line filter is a great idea. I was going to avoid removing the sending unit and internal pump if possible and who know what kind of crud is in the tank without inspecting it? A filter could prevent a lot of heartburn down the road.


As I mention the tank has and internal pump so no Aux pump to deal with.

I will also have a factory dual filler neck, I haven't seen it yet. The drawings don't look like there is a place to connect a hose from the pump. Did yours come with the pump connection or was it something you added?
 
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hoser

Explorer
Mine came with the bung for the fuel feed. My filler is not OEM but I might be picking up an OEM one for the restrictor. Please post a picture of yours when you get it.
 

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