Question maybe for Vegard_S. Now the truck is registered as a Motorredskap (MR). Which means no EU / TUV control, no road taxes or toll. Do you know if I can keep this registration even after it is built out? Looking at similar stories on the Land Rover forums here it seems totally possible
Regler for motorredskap
Hei folkens! Det står en gammel 109 brannbil til salgs som motorredskap. Hvordan er regler for disse. Hvem kan kjøre dem, maks hastighet, persontransport, vel, jeg vil helst vite det meste om dette! Venter i spenning på svar! Hilsen amatørbrannbilfører!www.lrforum.com
Regarding the rules for "motorredskap" the easy and correct answer here is that it you truck will sadly not longer fullfill the requirements to keep the classification as this, and thus have to be reclassed into a "campingbil" or a "personbil over 3500kg". The rules and requirements have changed a bit over the years, but the way this is and have been practiced the last years is that no new truckbased vehicles are being registered as "motorredskap", but as regualar trucks (N2 og N3) with various special mounted equipment. This also apply to older vehicles that are being modified or converted from their original apperiance. I know this as a fact, as I am working with truck mounted special equipment for a living as a mechanical engineer for a Bodybuilder Workshop here in Norway.. (www.amv-as.no). When you convert the truck the weight and body that is mounted wil be diffrent from the original firetruck body, and the main purpose for the truck will thus no longer be fire fighting... Ergo it will get a different clasification that matches the body and intended use. For instance my Unimog went from a "Motorredskap" to "terrenggående personbil over 3500kg med campingpåbygg" when I went for the reclasification.
....But, I also know a lot of people who just modify and drive with out any modification in the registrations papers. The downside then is that if you get stopped (and at some point you will..), you will be in a lot of trouble and have a big hazzle to sort things out in a rush..
If you want you can contact med on PM and I'll be happy to give you a call and explain a bit more details around all this
Regarding the wheelbase and total lenght of your truck, my Unimog has a WB of 3250mm ant total overall length of 7,26m from the tip of the winch to the rear of my spare wheel, this does not feel very massive to manouver and we have managed to get around small Italian villages without any drama
Hi Geo.Lander.
So, earlier you mentioned chassis prep first... I found that a lot of this depends on layout of the hab box above... I would think you can clean and service the chassis ready, but expect to move some things to get exactly what you want... So far, I have found a box style muffler/silencer and modified it to fit our chassis to gain space, I've moved/swapped out the original small diesel tank for a larger tank from a tractor unit/prime mover/horse (not sure what you call them in Norway), I've also relocated the air tanks and the truck batteries all to suit the hab box and layout. The other thing I've learned is that having the access door above a wheel is also a pain. I've seen several trucks with this setup and it makes good fold out steps difficult to fabricate and use.
On the chassis, I have every available space filled with something. There is a lot of valuable space in and around the chassis, so use that space wisely. Our silencer/muffler is on the front right and the body is shaped around it. Our gas locker is on the front left, and is also shaped to suit the chassis mounted lockers. I have also learned and was advised to run 2 or even 3 water tanks for several reasons. The first is to give better options on space filling/saving. The second is in case you fill with contaminated water... Only ever fill one tank at a time if the water source is unknown.
Lastly, the logo's. They are great. Number 1 or 4 for me.
I think a professionally built and mounted box from an experienced builder is the only way to go. It will be much faster (even with the wait)and will avoid the first build mistakes at a critical point. I know two German couples that both said the same thing" it took 3 builds before they got it right".
Just the box might be about €20K, but then the subframe from another company, windows and doors from someone like Outbound (whose website lists prices), putting the complete empty box, painted, in place on the truck, extending the chassis to mount the spare(s) at the back maybe, another overseeing it all.......
The "higher" spec KCT windows from Germany are literally twice the cost of Outbound which to me is bonkers (when I was looking anyway), although Aigner among others can supply at the maximum allowed discount.
Then internal stuff.
Since you have a blank canvas I would still suggest design the interior you want then see what size box you need.
Do you want a two person dinette or do you hope for a six seater for guests? Do you want a double bed permanently in place or to convert a suitable dinette every day? Just those two give at least a two metre variation in your required internal length.
The Unicat website as a suggestion shows in quite some detail both what you can buy today as well as used for sale, so you can copy and adapt their layout ideas to suit you. Plus you then will discover you absolutley must have a Nespresso machine
so there goes my 12 & 24v only policy ?
