15MAR07-24MAR07 4WD/Hiking/Camping in Maze and Needles District of Canyonlands NP, UT

The Road to Hans Flat

The lifts are still running, and with a handful of projects on my plate I haven't got to writing until now.

Our first day was spent driving from Denver over to Hans Flat. We hadn't driven I70 West in the daylight for a while, there are quite a few places we'd like to explore later--Fruita, Grand Junction/Palisade, No Name, Glenwood Springs/Aspen, and does anyone know what's around Cameo? Looks like a lot to do on the Western Slope.

Robber's Roost Road from HW24 to Hans Flat is very well marked. Since it was getting late, we cruised through without stopping...tho we'd like to look around the Grand Gallery next time, and there are a couple marked (on the maps, anyway) roads that look like they'd give a good view off the main road. It's pretty quick driving, 4HI worked well to keep the truck going in a straight line on the loose dirt, washboard, bare rock and sand on Robber's Roost Road.

The ranger on duty informed us that the last time she'd heard, there was 16" of snow on Flint Trail as of a week prior. We were all a bit curious and skeptical, since it had been warm and sunny for days since the last snowstorm. We drove the short, easy trail from the ranger station to the Flint Trail Overlook, and Erik broke out the binoculars. To my eyes, everything looked tiny and wouldn't focus! Then Erik kindly pointed out that I was holding them backwards...:oops:...so you know how long it's been since I used binoculars!

Holding the binoculars right, this time

Flint Trail looked good, so we set out for our campsite at Panorama Point.
 
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The Road to Panorama Point

Doesn't have quite the same ring to it as the movies...none of which I have seen yet...

Panorama Point and Cleopatra's Chair are the two end spurs on our evening's route. We didn't continue to the Chair since it was getting late, but it's only a mile or two from the Point.

The view from camp

We set up camp (for us that's a tent and two folding chairs), fired up the grille (charcoal grilles are allowed in the park, ash must be packed out), broke out some celebratory crack on a stick, got a pic of the sunset, and then went for the s'mores. Erik and Amy brought out some really handy collapsible pokers, perfect for marshmallows. I think they're from REI.
 
The Road to Maze Overlook

Sunrise from Panorama Point is impressive, but almost impossible to capture with a camera...at least, with the camera Katie and I had. The sun peeks over the mountains and lights up the buttes long before it hits the canyon bottoms, it's really something to experience in person...our photos don't do it justice.

We awoke to a cool breeze and clear sky. A few things were immediately apparent...Cat's Meow -20F bags are really, really comfy at 35-40 degrees, and Thermarest Basecamp pads are much, much more comfortable than the air mattress ever was. The pads are also lighter and easier to pack.

As we began to move around and make breakfast, a few more things became clear...a JetBoil w/GCS and companion cup is one of the handiest things we brought, ARB bumpers make great tabletops, and omelettes cook GREAT in plastic baggies. Also tortillas make great plates...we realized that after we forgot to use them.

For the rest of the trip, breakfast involved dumping about 3/4L H2O in the JB, while in each of two ziploc baggies we cracked two eggs, added a handful of cheese (we got the preshredded kind in the resealable bags), some bacon bits, and at one point some chopped red bell peppers and some pepperoni. The baggies were twist-tied together, dropped in the boiling water, and left until the tent was rolled up. When firm, dump the contents on a tortilla, fold and enjoy.

The frozen milk didn't work so well...it didn't spoil, but it sure tasted funny. Mornings were like taking milk shots, quick so we couldn't taste it. The yogurt did work well...it was nice to have a relatively normal breakfast in the middle of nowhere.

We packed up our spartan camp and then headed for Maze Overlook.

Leaving Panorama Point, with Cleopatra's Chair in the background
The Badgermobile!
 
To Maze Overlook: Flint Trail and Golden Stairs

The road to and from Panorama Point is fairly benign, save a couple short bumpy sections.

We made our way to the start of Flint Trail, where a short walk confirmed what we'd suspected from our bird's eye view the previous day...small scattered patches of corn snow no more than 3-4" deep, fairly dry tracks, little to no erosion damage. There's a great view from the track, fortunately there was no traffic as it's only wide enough for one vehicle at a time--passing is only possible in the corners, and corners require a 3-point turn for long wheelbases. It's a short, easy drive, probably negotiable by any 2WD vehicle with a bit of ground clearance, provided you're willing to ride your brakes that long. Someone had descended days earlier with cables or chains, given the surface and the imprint it's doubtful they were required at the time, but the Park Service even recommended them to us during our visit. I'm glad they don't have a gate at Flint Trail, they mean well but I'd rather make my own choices vs have someone tell me I can't make it (as happens at Schaffer Trail) when they're unaware of my driving abilities or preparedness.

The drive out of Flint Cove is an easy one. We quickly reached the cutoff for the Maze Overlook, and stopped for lunch at Golden Stairs. There's a great spot to eat on the trail, as it crosses this limestone cap. I rather naively suggested we do the hike, it looked short on the NPS map and we had plenty of time.

The NPS map is a bit misleading...it shows a nearly straight line with a slight curve to it. The reality involves switchbacking down the layers over a couple miles to drop about 1K' vertical. It's an interesting hike, rather strenuous (I'm out of shape) and exposed (I got a bit pink), with great views and things to see along the way and some interesting rock features below. The Natl Geo map shows the route much better...guess I shoulda looked at that one, too.
 
At the Overlook

The road from Golden Stairs campground to Maze Overlook is another fairly benign route, mostly sand and loose doubletrack, with a few sections of slickrock, a wash crossing or two, and a couple bumpy sections. It's mostly just long getting there, since it's bumpy enough to rate low pressure and low speed for a loaded vehicle, but we drove quite a bit in high range 4WD.

There's an interesting canyon along the route, not too far from the Overlook. We saw a bat flying around in the shadows in the canyon...Erik got a picture. Lotta bats out there.

The view over the Maze is fascinating. There are only two main washes, but many small feeder washes wind their way to meet them, and all are hikable...there is even a route along the limestone cap leading to the Chocolate Drops. There is a route down to the Maze from Maze Overlook, we did not walk this as it was late and we'd already hiked Golden Stairs.
 

RoundOut

Explorer
Great write-ups, guys!

Awesome write-ups, Erik and Sean!

Yeah, we were bummed that we couldn't make the trip. It looks like the vehicles handled well and took all that Utah could dish out with ease. We will look forward to getting in on the next trip, for sure!

Glad you were able to make good use of the eggs-in-a-bag trick. That and tortillas make for a no-mess, high-protein breakfast.
 
Road to the Dollhouse

The trip writeup seems like the hardest part :p.

At the Maze Overlook, Erik and Amy invited us inside the Badgermobile for a tour and a cup of cocoa. It's quite a setup...all the comforts of home, but with a great view that can change whenever they want.

The drive from the Overlook to the Dollhouse is long and scenic. It retraces the route back to the intersection past Golden Stairs, then begins a much longer, driven version of the Golden Stairs hike, slowly descending the layers as the road winds around the coves and points of the mesa.

We stopped at Teapot Rock...it's a great place for lunch, a wide open slickrock surface with a small parking area just before the route changes from open range and soft sand to slickrock, ledges and sharp turns. There was a middle-aged couple there, they had parked their stock Tundra and were headed out toward the Dollhouse via MTB.

The road after Teapot Rock isn't particularly difficult, but time consuming, slow, bumpy, scenic, and potentially exhausting if it's the last section of a long drive, as it was for us. Right after the turn beyond Teapot Rock Campsite, it starts out with a couple small bumps, some smooth slickrock, and some [url="http://www.tundrasolutions.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/41372"]chunky slickrock. There are a few trees here and there, lining the trail. Just after Teapot, there's a sharp switchback turn around a slickrock wash that requires a 3-point turn for LWB vehicles, the Badgers have a good picture of the turn on their blog. After the turn, the trail follows the edge of the wash, and turns particularly bumpy...there are a couple smooth-sided steps, and the trail winds around the edge to the next cove and a few rougher climbs and off-camber sections.

The views in this area are spectacular, as usual film doesn't really capture the scale of the scenery. Ernie's Country spreads out to the South and East, and the Dollhouse is to the Northeast, beyond is Needles District.

The road does get a little easier after Red Cove, so we pressed on and took a break in Land of Standing Rocks to stretch legs and cool engines. Anyone in search of Dr. Suess-like formations will find them in Land of Standing Rocks...geodes embedded in the slickrock, strange spires and smooth water carved slickrock are all part of the landscape.

Just beyond LoSR is the Dollhouse...round a turn, cruise through this sandy wash in Baja Mil fashion, get a shot of the dolls checking out your trucks, relax since you're almost there, then come upon a spot where the trail suddenly gets a little bumpy.

We stayed at Dollhouse 1, in the fins. Erik and Amy invited us in again, this time for popcorn and a movie :).
 
The Road to Elephant Hill

We left the Dollhouse, retraced our steps back to Robber's Roost Road past Teapot Rock, where I found that my sliders do indeed work well as landing skids.

With a long drive ahead of us, we skinny-pedaled our way to Hite Crossing...the road is easy, 2WD, with numerous ditches where water had cut across...go fast, hit brakes, cross ditch, repeat. I tossed in a few cans at the end of the trail, the first using the NATO spout...which I hadn't used in a long time and promptly made a mess...and then using the Super Siphon, which I quickly discovered needs proper orientation or a straight pipe to completely reach the bottom and not curl up at the end. Whatever, it was plenty of fuel to reach Monticello, where we stopped for dinner at a ranchhouse restaurant...I forget the name, KM, KC, CM, something like that, good food and friendly people, south side of town, west side of the road, where the road heads uphill.

We skipped Bear's Ears etc, which was probably open but as it turned out was a good thing, as there's a rather sharp turn entering the Elephant Hill loop from Beef Basin Road which requires 3-point turns from most full size, LWB vehicles, unless you have a great turning radius and little overhang front or rear. It looked like Jeeps and minis wouldn't have a problem at all, provided the driver picked a good line.

We reached the Needles area in the dark, and stayed at Hamburger Rock for the night...where we fortunately tied the tent to the trucks, since the wind flattened the tent, kicked sand up the fly through the mesh, and it rained and hailed on us. After being sandblasted (hiding in the sleeping bags...fortunately our feet were pointed at the wind!), we cleaned the place out (it was about 3AM) and got some sleep. It rained a little more in the morning, we ate in the truck and made our way to Needles, hoping the Hill was open despite the storm.
 
The Road to Devil's Kitchen

Hoo-raaaaaay! Caaaasa Boniiiiiitaaaaa!

Elephant Hill was indeed open, so we aired down and drove up.

In my opinion, it's a moderately difficult trail. It's definately the sort of trail where, if you don't like the first part, turn around because it only gets worse. However, because it sees such a huge amount of foot, MTB, 4WD and particularly rental 4WD travel, it's been slowly nerfed over the years...note the concrete and asphalt in the pictures.

It starts with a rough uphill and a tight turnaround--the slickrock pad behind the van in the second photo--followed by more uphill, after which a driver's choice of lines takes you to the top. That's the Badgermobile doing the Moderate line...the Easy line is to the far left out of the picture, and the Difficult line is one vehicle width to the left of the van--almost straight vertical. Neither of us had the approach or departure angles for the Difficult line.

The view at the top is impressive...you're near the top of the Needles formations. From there, you must drive down the Hill.

It's actually much easier than it looks. The NPS has paved, concreted, armored, and in general made it much easier than it used to be. It's basically a steep ramp. Fortunately some of the easier sections retain their character.

After dropping down the back of the hill, where you'll find Turntable (basically just a straight section where it's easier to reverse and back up, then swap ends again, to negotiate the hill), the trail follows wash bottoms and is generally fairly easy.

Somewhere in there, we moseyed over Coors Hill and Bud Hill. We're not sure which was which, nor was I aware (til Erik said something) that any of them were named...but apparently they take their names from people who have successfully driven over the Hill, then get careless, start thinking they've done it all, break their rig, and bust open the cooler to wait for help. I've seen what happens to a poor driver's composure in these spots...I'd like to think we're good drivers as we really just wandered on through without

Anyhow, here are a few of the short sections we drove over before reaching Squeezeplay, where I Crisco'd up the body panels and snuck through.

The next hour or so started like this :p :

Me: (making spotting motions)
Erik: "The rock really wants the mirror..."
Amy: "Don't break my house."

(After a bit of scraping and backing up, the side windows and sheetmetal are safely more than an inch from the rock.)

Erik: "Let's just take the mirror off...and stack some rocks..." (gets the tools)
Amy: "You guys are in trouble ;)" (goes for the camera)
Katie: "Sean, this is all your fault ;)" (goes for rocks)
Sean: "Looks like I better get some rocks." (goes for rocks)

(After a bit of stacking and creeping)

Amy: "You guys better not break my house." (takes more pictures)
Erik: "We just need a few more rocks." (goes back to stacking rocks)
Katie: "That's a great rock there but it's huge!" (braves the bat caves for smaller rocks)
Sean: "I'll get the crowbar..." (returns with crowbar)

See, there's a reason to carry a crowbar after all. We took this massive rock, plunked it down in front of the tire, and then snuck the Badgermobile (sans mirror) through Squeezeplay :victory: . The campsite is fortunately just around the corner...we climbed up the back for a great shot of Chesler Park in the distance.

Looking toward Devil's Kitchen campsites, from the edge of Chesler Park
 

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