-1973 K5 - Project Canyonero

edlaffoon

Adventure Every Day
Love your K5 Blazer! Brings back memories for me. My first car (truck) at 15 years old as a project was a 1974 GMC Jimmy. It was grey primer, had 36" Grand Prix's, (6) point cage, white wagon wheels and a big pro stock hood scoop. :) Awesome truck! I'll try and dig out a photo or two of it.

Great job on your K5!!! :)

Ben

Thanks Ben! They really are a blast otherwise I'd be in something else lol

I don't recall you ever said but what kind of Harley did you get? My last bike was an old softail, HUGE stroker evo (150+hp to the tire) lots of goodies, it screamed.

It's an 01 FXSTBI. I love it very very much and am glad that it looks like I won't have to sell it to get the truck going again.




Wow that is really cool I had no idea someone was still making them. Thanks!

As for the engine I get my backpay in the morning and I think I'm going with option B. Too much cold footedness lol

As for the future I still plan on this truck being modernized, maybe by then I get do one of the current gen engines which are phenominal.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
I'd do the lowest budget rebuild of the existing motor, a bearing / crank fix is no bid deal, if you can do most of the work yourself. Then start the piggy bank for the future LS swap. That gets you back on the road for the least amount of $.
Small Block Chevy engines are about the easiest and least expensive things to work on, second only to VW motors. You could do it yourself with a couple weeks of part-time wrench work and some engine machinist services. There's no reason i thas to cost a lot, unless you can't do the work or won't do the work / want the convenience of having it done in a hurry.

I burned the top end on my '85 C-10 years ago, after about 300k mi, ran it on a high-speed highway transition road curve while lon on oil and starved it out.
I got a rebuilt short block and a set of remanf set of heads and built it up with the rest of the parts off the smoked engine. About 500mi after that on another high speed / load run, I lost power and started backfiring out the carb. Pulled the valve covers to find the three of the valve studs on the passenger side head had backed out, rockers were askew. Another head, again in place. And an Edelbrock Performer manifold while I was at it. I've got about 50k mi on that motor now. I've been dabbling with engines since a shop class in High school nearly 40yrs ago. None of it's technically hard to do. Mostly an issue of convenience and cashflow.

enginereassembly07-050124_zpsgho19pvp.jpg
 

mccustomize

Explorer
You could always do a nice 383 with FAST fuel injection, it will run extremely well and have lots of torque. The 383 crate motors can be had pretty cheap, even GM has a HT383 truck motor.
 

edlaffoon

Adventure Every Day
None of it's technically hard to do. Mostly an issue of convenience and cashflow.

That is the real ticket right there. The process would "wait time" me to death. I'd like to have it running again in the time it would take just to tear the current engine out and tear it down to order parts. Even still because I'm looking at a crate engine I want to rebuild the current motor at a later time.

You could always do a nice 383 with FAST fuel injection, it will run extremely well and have lots of torque. The 383 crate motors can be had pretty cheap, even GM has a HT383 truck motor.

Wow that thing is "like 100 wires, I'm more of a two wire kinda guy" (McGruber)

But seriously the HT383 is about 2.5 times the cost of the engine I'm looking at. I'm in the $1500 range.

Fast injection is another Idea I've rolled around, but I feel like if I go with a first gen engine I still want it carbed.
 

justcuz

Explorer
Nothing is like building your own engine. Checking bearing clearances and proper torquing yourself is a lot better than some yahoo at a rebuilder slamming together an engine with an air wrench using the air pressure gauge as a substitute for a torque wrench. How many rebuilt engines have come apart now? I've over revved engines till the valves floated and the engine misfired, never lost a bottom end. There's going to come a time when that becomes a false economy for the convenience of a weekend bolt together. Hopefully you use a reputable machine shop. I would definitely shy away from auto parts store short blocks.
 

edlaffoon

Adventure Every Day
Good points. I really wish I had the time and space in my garage to build the engine myself because you are right (if you want it done right...)

That said I just pulled the trigger on a Chevrolet Performance Parts replacement 350 crate engine, should be delivered this week.

I will add more detail to the thread when we actually start the work but my project goals during the replacement are:

1) Obviously get the new motor in.
2) Clean up the engine bay (dirty and messy wiring) and paint the frame rails etc
3) Get the AC working (needs compressor new R134a lines etc and charge)
4) All new instruments, hard lines and wiring.
5) Rewire the entire truck, front to back.

The wiring on this truck is 40 years and half a dozen owners old... it all needs replaced. It's pretty bad and running of of more splices and wingnuts than actual wire.

This will be a huge task but will be worth it.

I'm looking for any info on the AC if anyone knows how to update one of these to the new refrigerant, I've never done this before.
 

justcuz

Explorer
If you use your aluminum oil pan again, pay attention to the sealing surface. There are 2 types of pan gaskets, I would leave the factory pan on the engine as it comes from Chevy.
 

edlaffoon

Adventure Every Day
If you use your aluminum oil pan again, pay attention to the sealing surface. There are 2 types of pan gaskets, I would leave the factory pan on the engine as it comes from Chevy.

I won't be reusing the pan, although I'm 100% sure that the pan and gasket were not the issue. We will find out once the engine is out but I'm pretty sure something broke/cracked when the trans failed. Considering the U-joints on the drive shaft snapped with enough force to throw it 20 yards off the highway it's a safe bet there was damage to the block. Also becuase a lot of oil was dripping from inside the bell housing last time I was under it.

I also have a mechanical oil pressure gauge that has not worked since I replaced the last engine. Although I could not see a leak at the fitting it's possible that is the culprit as well.
 

1976K5Chalet

Observer
In the future...the LS is the way to go. My experience wasn't exactly wonderful considering i paid a shop in Vegas to do my swap and in return i received a hack job. That being said i had to roll back to my mechanic roots and redo everything shy or removing the engine and trans. Now that its done i absolutely love it. LS power is pretty amazing. I am glad i decided to ditch the antiquated tbi power and step up to a 6.0/4L80e.
 

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1BigJimmy

New member
I just read you purchased your new motor. I was going to give you TBI motor setup I have. I had to get rid of my GMC Jimmy and I still have the drivetrain I was going to put in it. It would have had to of been rebuilt but it would have been better than carbureted. Getting it to Texas might have been a bit much.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Very nice build. You must live in a dry area, most of the early square-body chevies I see have badly rusted fender wells and rocker panels.
.
That '73 is a rare bird with its fully removable top. I believe they went to the half-top in either '75 or '76 (which was right about the time I started getting into 4x4s.) I understand now why they did it - for rollover protection, basically - but I always liked the looks of the fully removable top (although I owned a '71 Blazer for 2 years in the early 80's and never did get around to removing the top, darn it!)
 

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