1973 Wagoneer - Full Size Camping Goodness
- Thread starter Dr. Marneaus
- Start date
Dr. Marneaus
Station Wagoneer
I dunno? Pretty sure nobody makes a "convert your drum/drum 1973 wagoneer that is half Kaiser half AMC to a GM disc/drum system" kit haha.
I got a 77 disc/drum Master cylinder mocked up on my 73 booster, I need to mod the push rod as it is way too long. Easy peasy though. I pulled the distributing block (no prop valve on a 73) along with the lines that went to the MC.
So, once i have the prop valve in my hands I can make new custom lines that go down to with my original distribution block was, and connect the lines with inverted flare unions. Basically, I'm just creating 3 new lines that go from the prop valve located at the MC down to where the original hard lines started. Make sense? Hopefully!
reece146
Automotive Artist
Custom lines are not a big deal to make.
I know that up here you can go to NAPA or Canadian Tire or where ever and get pre-made straight lines that you can bend to shape. They are "cheap" and save a lot of hassle if you don't want to bother learning the intricacies of whatever flaring tool you buy.
If you buy a flaring tool... make sure you get one that has good support and smooth operation of the anvil portion on the end of the threaded portion. If this part does not rotate smoothly under compression you will have a ********** of a time getting the flares to seal properly as they tend to get marred, nicked or warped otherwise. Take it apart and lube the anvil with good high pressure grease before you use it the first time.
HTH
I know that up here you can go to NAPA or Canadian Tire or where ever and get pre-made straight lines that you can bend to shape. They are "cheap" and save a lot of hassle if you don't want to bother learning the intricacies of whatever flaring tool you buy.
If you buy a flaring tool... make sure you get one that has good support and smooth operation of the anvil portion on the end of the threaded portion. If this part does not rotate smoothly under compression you will have a ********** of a time getting the flares to seal properly as they tend to get marred, nicked or warped otherwise. Take it apart and lube the anvil with good high pressure grease before you use it the first time.
HTH
rdraider
Adventurer
I love the old school style to this build!
And i'll second what other people have said: don't look at the money you've spent as money lost. It's better than paying off a truck note, knowing that money is really lost. And its way more capable than anything Detroit offers these days.
Love the FSJs!
And i'll second what other people have said: don't look at the money you've spent as money lost. It's better than paying off a truck note, knowing that money is really lost. And its way more capable than anything Detroit offers these days.
Love the FSJs!
Dr. Marneaus
Station Wagoneer
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
HA!!!! hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
Oh man, life just keeps getting better and better!
HA!!!! hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
Oh man, life just keeps getting better and better!
Dr. Marneaus
Station Wagoneer
Was checking shock travel so i knew what to order, and set the truck up on jack stands. The jack stand on the frame next to the gas tank shifted about 1/2" as it settled, and scraped against the side of the tank.
Well, apparently as it scraped, it scraped off this weir rubbery substance that I had never really paid heed to.
Turns out the rubber cement was there to patch a leak made by some PO.
So, at least i didnt make the freaking crack, i just undid the half-assed repair that was originally done.
Tanks gets dropped and inspected tonight, if it looks as decent inside as I remember it looking, I'll go off to get welded up tomorrow. maybe I'll have them line it.
Well, apparently as it scraped, it scraped off this weir rubbery substance that I had never really paid heed to.
Turns out the rubber cement was there to patch a leak made by some PO.
So, at least i didnt make the freaking crack, i just undid the half-assed repair that was originally done.
Tanks gets dropped and inspected tonight, if it looks as decent inside as I remember it looking, I'll go off to get welded up tomorrow. maybe I'll have them line it.
Dr. Marneaus
Station Wagoneer
i honestly dont really want to deal with the weight of like 40 gallons of gas.
Dr. Marneaus
Station Wagoneer
Well, internets, what do we do?
Do I adhere to the "oh noes! your tank is teh old! It must have teh rusts and holeses!"
Or do we go with EVIDENCE?!
Okay, this took 18 minutes (yes, i timed myself)
Once it was on the ground i did a lil inspection.
OH MY GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!! THE HUMANITY! THERE IS RUST EVERYWHERE!
KILL IT WITH FIRE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Okay but seriously, there was rust. (the chunks you see are remnants of an old fuel sock that is down in the bottom there, i didn't have any tweezers long enough to get it out)
Man, thats bad. How it stays held together in the parking lot is a wonder, forget about on the trails!
Alright, so about an hour and 3 cans of brake cleaner later(who needs beer when you're huffin' that stuff all night), we have a mostly clean tank.
I pumped it full of water to rinse it out, it's getting dropped at a friend's mechanic, who is a freelance type guy. He said he's repaired many a tank, and will clean it up and fix the 2 leaks (the crack and the broken weld at the vent tube) for me for 2 hours labor, at the "friends and family" rate.
So, i should have a repaired tank by Friday night. I'm dropping it off in the AM.
Then it'll take 18 minutes to bolt back up once my new sending unit arrives.
Do I adhere to the "oh noes! your tank is teh old! It must have teh rusts and holeses!"
Or do we go with EVIDENCE?!
Okay, this took 18 minutes (yes, i timed myself)
Once it was on the ground i did a lil inspection.
OH MY GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!! THE HUMANITY! THERE IS RUST EVERYWHERE!
KILL IT WITH FIRE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Okay but seriously, there was rust. (the chunks you see are remnants of an old fuel sock that is down in the bottom there, i didn't have any tweezers long enough to get it out)
Man, thats bad. How it stays held together in the parking lot is a wonder, forget about on the trails!
Alright, so about an hour and 3 cans of brake cleaner later(who needs beer when you're huffin' that stuff all night), we have a mostly clean tank.
I pumped it full of water to rinse it out, it's getting dropped at a friend's mechanic, who is a freelance type guy. He said he's repaired many a tank, and will clean it up and fix the 2 leaks (the crack and the broken weld at the vent tube) for me for 2 hours labor, at the "friends and family" rate.
So, i should have a repaired tank by Friday night. I'm dropping it off in the AM.
Then it'll take 18 minutes to bolt back up once my new sending unit arrives.
jarmentrout
Observer
I wish you lived closer, I'd give you my aftermarket plastic tank that's in my 77. Don't think it can be shipped because its had gas in it.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
reece146
Automotive Artist
You probably already know this but just in case...
Make sure your friend that is doing the welding is aware that you used brake cleaner to clean the tank. Brake cleaner and welding can lead to some seriously nasty stuff.
http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm
You've already set direction but... Didn't I see somewhere (ifsja.org?) you can get a plastic 'Burban tank to hang off the back of the frame that is larger than the stock tank and it fits decently? Just a thought.
Make sure your friend that is doing the welding is aware that you used brake cleaner to clean the tank. Brake cleaner and welding can lead to some seriously nasty stuff.
http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm
You've already set direction but... Didn't I see somewhere (ifsja.org?) you can get a plastic 'Burban tank to hang off the back of the frame that is larger than the stock tank and it fits decently? Just a thought.