1976 Scout Traveler, Ultimate Expedition Build
- Thread starter rube bonet
- Start date
rube bonet
Adventurer
:victory:
rube bonet
Adventurer
Front axle is back in! Front end is done,at least as far as fab work goes.
NOS j-10 housing, scout outers and knuckles. ARB diff, CTM axle joints, and alloy axleshafts should hold up pretty well.
Here you can see the pinion bump stop. This stops the pinion from rotating up after hard hits, it will ensure the driveshaft stays out of the tranny pan.
NOS j-10 housing, scout outers and knuckles. ARB diff, CTM axle joints, and alloy axleshafts should hold up pretty well.
Here you can see the pinion bump stop. This stops the pinion from rotating up after hard hits, it will ensure the driveshaft stays out of the tranny pan.
rube bonet
Adventurer
I wanted the steering to be bulletproof, so I started by machining the stock taper to accept bigger joints. Also, in the interest of parts availability, all the tie rod ends are common part numbers stocked by most any auto parts store.
The tie rod and drag link are 1.25 x .250 4130 chromoly tube threaded for the tie rod ends. I then slot and keyhole the end, and weld on a pinch bolt. I find this holds them in place much better than the typical jam nut set-up.
I also replaced the rag joint in the colum to box linkage with U joints...
The tie rod and drag link are 1.25 x .250 4130 chromoly tube threaded for the tie rod ends. I then slot and keyhole the end, and weld on a pinch bolt. I find this holds them in place much better than the typical jam nut set-up.
I also replaced the rag joint in the colum to box linkage with U joints...
Last edited:
rube bonet
Adventurer
Right now, the thread is just about up to date with the work. I still have quite a bit left to do, the rear suspension is the next big hurdle, then bumpers, then finishing the roof rack, then the dash....AND then....
I got the rear suspension mocked up, mounted 35" Goodyears on Trail Ready (made in the USA) beadlocks...and then I had to roll it outside to get a good look at it :ylsmoke:
I got the rear suspension mocked up, mounted 35" Goodyears on Trail Ready (made in the USA) beadlocks...and then I had to roll it outside to get a good look at it :ylsmoke:
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I used a similar system for the crossover steering on my dodge with the pinch bolt. I have found that using an all metal lock nut on the pinch bolt is the cleanest solution that doesn't rattle loose over a few thousand miles. My truck rides like a tank however....mileage will vary. You can also add a small weld bead ( and maybe 10 minutes with a file ) behind the head of the pinch bolt to keep it from turning, but can still come out for replacement. This makes steering adjustments a one wrench operation.
I think one area that gets overlooked on older vehicles is fastener locking......be it safety wire, lock nuts, loc-tite, etc.
Are you cutting most of your stuff out on a cnc plasma/laser/waterjet table?
Again....VERY nice work! I wish I had the patience and time you do....
I think one area that gets overlooked on older vehicles is fastener locking......be it safety wire, lock nuts, loc-tite, etc.
Are you cutting most of your stuff out on a cnc plasma/laser/waterjet table?
Again....VERY nice work! I wish I had the patience and time you do....
rube bonet
Adventurer
Yep, everything gets lock nuts, loctite, or safety wire.
I have a small 4x4 cnc plasma that I do most of my cutting with. I still build everything the way I used to with a vert band saw, ironworker, and torch, it is just way faster now.
And, when you make a mistake, you are only losing material instead of time.
rube bonet
Adventurer
Yep! I have never been able to use a scout axle in any application but bone stock without cutting and turning the knuckles. I made it easy this time and sourced a brand new, never assembled Jeep J-10 44 housing, and put the Scout outers on. It was also wider for more stability and to help compensate for the offset of the wheels, has a good pinion to caster angle relationship, and perches already set for wider springs.
Right now, caster is set at 5 degrees at ride height, with very little caster change through travel.
ReconH3
Heavy Duty Adventurer
This is an amazing build. The thing I like the most is how you looked for reliability and simplicity of finding parts. I'm aiming for a similar goal. Unfortunately the H3 has too much electronics to be completely trouble free. I've managed to find my way around certain issues, but other will have to stay as is. Love it!
delithic
Observer
I have a question on all that fab work. Most of the stuff I have seen welded in person is at my work in the oilfield. Do you leave all that fab stuff in the undercarriage raw steel? I was wondering if you were planning on powdercoating or painting any of it? Near the gulf coast you get a lot of rust pretty quickly. I am sure in AZ it takes a bit longer. When I was offshore we primed welds pretty much immediately.
Nice work and keep it up!
Nice work and keep it up!
rube bonet
Adventurer
This is an amazing build. The thing I like the most is how you looked for reliability and simplicity of finding parts. I'm aiming for a similar goal. Unfortunately the H3 has too much electronics to be completely trouble free. I've managed to find my way around certain issues, but other will have to stay as is. Love it!
Even on custom build it sure is nice if the parts are readily available, from at least a few different sources. As far as the electronics go, the engine controls will be as simplified as possible...but there is still a computer. I still like the idea of an early cummins 4cyl (no electronics)...but it wasn't the ideal choice for this build.
Yep, it will all get painted. After the fab work is done, body is coming off, frame painted, etc. And rust isn't too much of in issue in AZ, or rain for that matter:sombrero:
Thanks for all the nice words!
okiebindernut
New member
Wow, a Scout buildup on Expedition Portal. An awesome vehicle and top notch fabrication. First class all the way sir. Can't wait to see more.
High Country Hillbilly
Observer
Love the old "Irrationals" and your metal fab skilz' are top notch...will be watching this one.
rube bonet
Adventurer
A couple more posts, and I will finally be current with where I am at in the build:sombrero:
I knew I wanted to fit as big of a tire as possible, with as much travel as practical, and keep a low COG. On the Scout, it was going to require some sheetmetal work.
Close up of the tire and wheels--35x12.50 MTR on Trail Ready beadlocks. You can also see where Fesler's (doing the bodywork/paint) tacked up the the sectioned fenderwell so I could check for tire clearances. It is a little hard to see, but they took out 2.5 inches all the way around, shortened the leading edge, and kept the factory fender lines. Should look great finished!
I also had to trim, massage, then flat out beat the inner fenderwell portion to keep tire clearance.
The end result I feel was well worth it. Tire stuffs, and clears everything lock to lock. Front suspension ended up with 10" travel.
This is a pic of the front suspension at full compression. I remove all the leaves but the main so I can cycle the springs.
I knew I wanted to fit as big of a tire as possible, with as much travel as practical, and keep a low COG. On the Scout, it was going to require some sheetmetal work.
Close up of the tire and wheels--35x12.50 MTR on Trail Ready beadlocks. You can also see where Fesler's (doing the bodywork/paint) tacked up the the sectioned fenderwell so I could check for tire clearances. It is a little hard to see, but they took out 2.5 inches all the way around, shortened the leading edge, and kept the factory fender lines. Should look great finished!
I also had to trim, massage, then flat out beat the inner fenderwell portion to keep tire clearance.
The end result I feel was well worth it. Tire stuffs, and clears everything lock to lock. Front suspension ended up with 10" travel.
This is a pic of the front suspension at full compression. I remove all the leaves but the main so I can cycle the springs.
Similar threads
