1982 Fleet Flatbed Conversion Project
- Thread starter GoinBoardin
- Start date
I've used HH-66 a lot on various projects. I built an enclosure for our Albin 25 cruiser last year using vinyl fabric. Much easier than sewing and I sew quite a bit. Vinyl fabric is available on Ebay pretty cheaply. I did sew the zippers for the windows on to vinyl fabric before gluing them in to the enclosure.
Make the lift panels first. Much easier to attach the vinyl side curtain to the roof and trim/adjust the lower edge that attaches to the camper body. Can do a trial fit by temporarily attaching rope or webbing to the lower edge of the curtain and securing to the underside of the camper. This would allow lifting and lowering the roof to test the fit.
GoinBoardin
Observer
Thanks for the information everyone. I'm going to use 18oz vinyl coated polyester. Based on the comments above, and the fact that raft patches are applied with glue, I think I'll give glue alone a try. If I need to replace the canvas once a decade, that is fine by me.
Anyone have insight into using E-panel for exterior panels and bonding with Sikaflex 252? I've been very intrigued by TeleTurns build thread: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/61346-Four-Wheel-Camper-Flatbed-Conversion I wonder if he ever finished this out?
Anyone have insight into using E-panel for exterior panels and bonding with Sikaflex 252? I've been very intrigued by TeleTurns build thread: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/61346-Four-Wheel-Camper-Flatbed-Conversion I wonder if he ever finished this out?
GoinBoardin
Observer
It seems like 18oz would do the job no problem. My backpacking tents are much, much lighter and have withstood some crazy storms.
I made some room in the [small] garage so I have a level floor to build the frame on. The siding, old frame "lift", and last of the floor pack was removed. Hopefully I can get some materials and crank out some actual construction this weekend.
With removing the old frame "lift", it looks like I'll need to extend the canvas height 6" minimum to be able to stand up inside. I'm thinking I'll go to an 8" canvas extension; so around 34" (includes length to attach) of canvas. This will put the camper 4" over the cab of my truck at the tightest spot (vs the original ~12"), and I'll gain substantial headroom while in bed. I'll be going with tubular lift mechanisms so changing height is not a big deal. General idea is the same as this: http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/11945-84-fleet-09-tacoma-project/page-2
That's an interesting idea for insulation on the canvas. I'll make up removable Reflectix for cool/cold weather. I like the idea of being able to clean both sides of the canvas to avoid the mildew that forms between layers of the double wall designs.
I made some room in the [small] garage so I have a level floor to build the frame on. The siding, old frame "lift", and last of the floor pack was removed. Hopefully I can get some materials and crank out some actual construction this weekend.
With removing the old frame "lift", it looks like I'll need to extend the canvas height 6" minimum to be able to stand up inside. I'm thinking I'll go to an 8" canvas extension; so around 34" (includes length to attach) of canvas. This will put the camper 4" over the cab of my truck at the tightest spot (vs the original ~12"), and I'll gain substantial headroom while in bed. I'll be going with tubular lift mechanisms so changing height is not a big deal. General idea is the same as this: http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/11945-84-fleet-09-tacoma-project/page-2
That's an interesting idea for insulation on the canvas. I'll make up removable Reflectix for cool/cold weather. I like the idea of being able to clean both sides of the canvas to avoid the mildew that forms between layers of the double wall designs.
shellbackcva59
Observer
So many little steps on doing a build. Once you get it sitting on a new floor pack, it's a boost of confidence, and inspiration to get the job done. Just something to think about. Raising the roof is going to catch a lot more wind. I was considering using the tubing for my roof lift, but thought about extreme side load from cross wind. Could the tubing possibly collapse? Maybe some diagonal cross bracing on the lift tubes would eliminate problems from cross winds?
You've already done a lot of work but I noticed this one on Craigslist for a good price and it's probably not that far from you. May (or may not) save you a lot of effort.
https://denver.craigslist.org/for/6146768815.html
https://denver.craigslist.org/for/6146768815.html
GoinBoardin
Observer
If I were to do this over, I'd start from scratch. I have a lot of time into disassembly. I wouldn't by another old fwc unless it was in pristine condition and ready to use. Not that I'm not enjoying this; I am, and learning. That Keystone camper is too big but does appear to be in decent shape.
GoinBoardin
Observer
Started on some fabrication today after picking up some material yesterday. I bought tongue & groove 3/4" ply for flooring, 3/4" birch veneer ply for the overhead bed (I'll make this a slide out), a piece of oak to face the slide out bed, some poplar for the slide out supports, and 125' of 1" 14ga steel tube (they didn't have 16 ga in stock, not a big deal). This is more tube than I need, but 1" is great to have on hand for random projects.
I got a litter further along than this, but this is the last picture I took. Sorry for the blur, my phone camera has intermittent focusing capabilities.
The frame looks convoluted but there's method to the madness. The double tubes going across are to support the plywood seam. The red circles show approximate bolt down locations for the front.
After lots of paint/sealer on the ply and paint on the steel, I'll be attaching ply to the bottom of the floor frame with large head self drilling/tapping screws. The space between the tubes will get 1" XPS insulation for an insulated floor. I'm not sure exactly what I'll do for the floor material to stand on; I'm leaning toward laminate flooring with a thin under lay of ply.
I should be able to finish up the steel tube frame tomorrow, hopefully get some paint on it & the plywood floor. I'll be busy part of Monday so that's a good time for paint to be drying.
I got a litter further along than this, but this is the last picture I took. Sorry for the blur, my phone camera has intermittent focusing capabilities.
The frame looks convoluted but there's method to the madness. The double tubes going across are to support the plywood seam. The red circles show approximate bolt down locations for the front.
After lots of paint/sealer on the ply and paint on the steel, I'll be attaching ply to the bottom of the floor frame with large head self drilling/tapping screws. The space between the tubes will get 1" XPS insulation for an insulated floor. I'm not sure exactly what I'll do for the floor material to stand on; I'm leaning toward laminate flooring with a thin under lay of ply.
I should be able to finish up the steel tube frame tomorrow, hopefully get some paint on it & the plywood floor. I'll be busy part of Monday so that's a good time for paint to be drying.
Attachments
GoinBoardin
Observer
I did not finish the frame, but made some progress there and it's coming together well. Spent more time on sealing the flooring plywood, and making the overhead bed with slide out (cutting it out, sanding, sanding, stain & poly on interior sides, spar varnish exterior + oil based enamel, adding the oak face board to the slide out). A few pictures.
shellbackcva59
Observer
Looks Good!
GoinBoardin
Observer
Thanks!
I've ordered new vinyl coated polyester & HH-66. I'll do some test applications of the HH-66 to see how well it holds. After reading this thread: http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?6014-Multi-Layer-PVC/page3 , I feel the glue should work well for this application. I'll be replacing the headliner at the same time, and the fiber insulation will be replaced with XPS foam (R5).
This weekend I'll hopefully get the frame finished up & painted, with the now sealed floor ply attached. I'd like to see what I'm up against for shortening the door soon too; need to trim ~8" off the bottom before it will fit the new opening.