1987 4Runner- Expedition Build Up.

austintaco

Explorer
I hear ya. I am just a novice mechanic all around, but over the past three years, I have become more brave. Changing the gearbox on my 89 had been my biggest endeavor until I just finished rebuilding the front end on my 84 while replacing the gearbox in it too.

Things I remember being a ***** about the gearbox. Taking it in and out will be like solving a mind bender puzzle. I can't remember if I pulled it up through the engine bay or down and to the side. Can somebody chime in if they remember? It will save LA some time.
If you end up removing pitman arms, remember that their are little match marks on there for installation to the gear box.
Count the number of turns on the sector shaft on the gearbox and then divide by 2 to find the midpoint when you install it to the steering shaft. If your steering wheel is if off, but everything else is lined up correctly and you can still turn it lock to lock, you can just take your steering wheel off and put it on straight.

Hope some of this helps.
 

Grim Reaper

Expedition Leader
Yep, lots of fluid..... had to spend about 10 minutes getting it out of the lines and box.......




Heh, I couldnt get the pitman arm off at the yard, and they felt sorry for me.... took 2 trips, my brother in law, and two 17mm sockets (busted one) to get just the gear box out.... so they didnt charge me for the pitman arm, another $8 bucks.

I got a fuel sending unit out of the truck too, hopefully it'll work in my truck. It was the only toyota with a gas tank left in it....

Also tried to get the ball joints out of the truck (to keep as spares), but didnt have necessary tools... its funny these toyotas... have odd sized nuts and bolts. I've never used a 17mm or 19mm socket before... much less box end wrenches... which I didnt have...


Have I told you guys I'm a non mechanical person? This truck has been the first truck I've done major-ish wrenching on... Learning a lot though. I know just about every nut and bolt on my motorcycles, and i'd like to become similar with this truck. I want to know what works and what doesnt and how to fix it if it doesnt work. Definitely glad to have this and other communities available with folks willing to help, so thanks to all of you!

Japaneese vehicles are 10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm very rare 19mm then some big stuff for hubs etc.

German like 10mm, 13mm, 17mm, 19mm.

English what ever was laying on the floor that fell off the previous vehicle that rolled by.

My 88 suburban was a pistol. body was SAE but the engine was metric and the threads were NOT a standard pitch metric. :smilies27


By far my favorite vehicle to work on have been Toyota. It is done with common sense the only thing that has really made me mad was one bolt on my previa. I ended up having to bend a wrench to get at it. More of a issue of deviation from original design to get the super charger on it.

I am going to hell with the cuss words I invented working on water cooled VW's.

The GM's I have owned always pissed me off with stupid way these did stuff especially the accessory drives. Ever work on a power steering pump on a GM? it sucks.

Hay if you ever need to drop the transmission the easy way is pull the shifters and wrap a tree strap around the transmission at the transmission shifter. Stick the cherry picker through the passenger side door. Leave the cross member on it and it balances perfect. Take the weight off pull the bell housing bolts wiggle it off the input shaft throw a dolly under it and lower it.
 

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ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Roger Brown & I were once on both a Toyota list and a VW Caddy list. We used to joke that one brand was for wearing out the odd sized wrenches and the other brand was for wearing out the even sized wrenches.

I didn't use the cherry picker, but out the bottom with the trans-t/c on my live axle truck was the way to go. X2 on popping out the shifters.
 

RU55ELL

Explorer
Heck all I did was soak the splined shaft down with PB twice, let it sit overnight and I was able to pry it off with a big screwdriver the next day. If something has been on the truck for a while, the same could be done instead of trying to get it off immediately and causing yourself all kinds of problems. :sombrero:
 
Mr. Leary is allowing me to borrow his old tires/wheels for a bit since he got knew beefy meats. Thanks bud.

So, before with the "31x10.50x15" which measure about 29"
IMG_1348.jpg

To after with his 16" wheels and tires measuring close to 31.25"
IMG_1363.jpg


I think its a nice improvement in tire size, I didnt notice any power loss either.

IMG_1353.jpg

And now that Mike has his new tires, it makes me want some 33x10.50 BFG KM2s now!
IMG_1359.jpg


Will probably do the ball join spacers sometime this week. Going to see about the OME shocks too.
 
A few minor mods today.....
IMG_1367.jpg

This tire/wheel combo looks AWESOME!

I took the little metal valance piece off the front. When we went mucking about in the muck, I managed to mangle it up a bit.. never liked that junk anyways. Added a couple Hella 500's that i had lying around, looks only at this point, couldnt find my relays....

Mods #2 and 3 today:
Get rid of these nasty things.....
IMG_1369.jpg

IMG_1368.jpg


And replace with........
IMG_1372.jpg

IMG_1371.jpg


Any idea how to fix that hole in the headliner on the driver's side??? I'm thinking about some duct tape........:sombrero:


Oh and Mr. Leary, Look what I found....
IMG_1365.jpg

Look closer...
IMG_1364.jpg
 
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Mr. Leary

Glamping Excursionaire
That is awesome. Should be a commercial for those magnetic hardware plates. Drove off road and across town and... its still there!
 
Idling issue:

So, its been going on for a while now, but never posted here to get advice on a remedy.

The truck has been having an idling issue, when it gets up to operating temp, it seems that the throttle gets stuck, or, will not go down to idling speed. It gets stuck around 2000 RPMs. But, a quick blip of the throttle and it settles back down.

I've replaced vacuum hoses and PCV valve.

Thoughts?
 

Box Rocket

Well-known member
Idling issue:

So, its been going on for a while now, but never posted here to get advice on a remedy.

The truck has been having an idling issue, when it gets up to operating temp, it seems that the throttle gets stuck, or, will not go down to idling speed. It gets stuck around 2000 RPMs. But, a quick blip of the throttle and it settles back down.

I've replaced vacuum hoses and PCV valve.

Thoughts?

Try cleaning out the throttlebody. Could have some carbon buildup and gunk in there preventing the butterfly from closing al the way. If it can't close all the way its letting in air and as a result, it's adding fuel and therefore upping the idle speed.

Just a thought.
 
Try cleaning out the throttlebody. Could have some carbon buildup and gunk in there preventing the butterfly from closing al the way. If it can't close all the way its letting in air and as a result, it's adding fuel and therefore upping the idle speed.

Just a thought.

Is there any way of doing that without draining all the new coolant? It'd be appropriate to remove the TB completely to clean it, right?
 

Box Rocket

Well-known member
you should be able to get it torn down this far and look inside to see how dirty it is. Little carb cleaner and a toothbrush will help.

DSC01340.jpg


I'm working totally from memory here since my experience is with Land Cruisers more than 4Runners, and someone else can hopefully confirm what I'm suggesting before you dive into it.

I seem to remember someone suggesting you elevate the driverside rear of the truck so that the carb cleaner you spray into the throttlebody will drain out the front opening rather than down into the intake.

Good luck.
 

corax

Explorer
Idling issue:

So, its been going on for a while now, but never posted here to get advice on a remedy.

The truck has been having an idling issue, when it gets up to operating temp, it seems that the throttle gets stuck, or, will not go down to idling speed. It gets stuck around 2000 RPMs. But, a quick blip of the throttle and it settles back down.

I've replaced vacuum hoses and PCV valve.

Thoughts?

I've had that at one point or another on every 22RE I've owned (can also set a TPS code because the throttle doesn't completely close) - see the thing in the green circle? it's held on by 2 phillips screws and teh vacuum line just goes to a little plastic filter (not connected to the intake) -remove it. you don't need it. it slows the throttle plate right before it closes completely, but often times it gets sticky and won't retract fully. I've had no issues on any of my previous Toyotas with it off and couldn't tell any difference

tps4.jpg
 

Mr. Leary

Glamping Excursionaire
I've had that at one point or another on every 22RE I've owned (can also set a TPS code because the throttle doesn't completely close) - see the thing in the green circle? it's held on by 2 phillips screws and teh vacuum line just goes to a little plastic filter (not connected to the intake) -remove it. you don't need it. it slows the throttle plate right before it closes completely, but often times it gets sticky and won't retract fully. I've had no issues on any of my previous Toyotas with it off and couldn't tell any difference

tps4.jpg

Thanks. We spent a couple of head scratching evenings at the casa wondering what that little boger did for a living!
 
I've had that at one point or another on every 22RE I've owned (can also set a TPS code because the throttle doesn't completely close) - see the thing in the green circle? it's held on by 2 phillips screws and teh vacuum line just goes to a little plastic filter (not connected to the intake) -remove it. you don't need it. it slows the throttle plate right before it closes completely, but often times it gets sticky and won't retract fully. I've had no issues on any of my previous Toyotas with it off and couldn't tell any difference

tps4.jpg
Ok, I'm a bit confused by this. I just went out and removed the hose with the little filter thingy. Drove it around a bit and it seemed to work, until i get home and back it into the drive, put it in neutral, put on the parking brake.... and low and behold its back up to 2000 RPMs. I blip the throttle again, and instead of the previous activity of dropping down to 1200 RPMs it went to about 500.

So the part I'm confused about, am I removing the little vacuum plate thingy that you mentioned or just the hose? Why the reference to the two phillips screws? Do I remove the whole thing or just the hose?
 
Ok, so after four cans of carb cleaner we cleaned it out pretty good! :sombrero:

Works much mo better now. Idles more smoothly and goes back down as I described it wouldn't do.

Thanks for the motivation, Mr. Leary.

I need to drive the truck somewhere now! Mexico?:sombrero:
 

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