1987 4Runner- Expedition Build Up.

BLKNBLU

Explorer
I don't know specifically about your 2wd/4wd question. What I have noticed though, is if you look up a steering box for a '93 4runner from any site you choose, there is no seperate listing for 2wd vs 4wd. Not exactly a sure thing, but it makes me lean toward them all being the same.

A pic of the 2 different types.
34doml4.jpg


The mod on the shaft. Disregard the red and green lines, they were for some other post. Approximately at the pink dots are a couple pins through the shaft/tube assembly. You drill them out and the whole shebang can slide freely. (i.e. slide in shorter in this case for the larger box)
30u8hg5.jpg
 

BLKNBLU

Explorer
On the gear box issue:
I had to replace the one on my 89 4runner and I bought one that was supposed to be for an 89, but it was the newer style and hence the input shaft is longer and for it to work you would have to shorten the steering linkage. I don't know if all boxes from 1st gen 4runner IFS trucks are the same or if they started using the newer style box in mid year for 89's, but the earlier boxes are the safer bet for fit, but will have more miles.

I am doing the brake upgrade now on my 84. It's been slow. Corax helped me out with a few hiccups. I am using the s13wb brakes with a MC and BB from a 95 4runner.
I think the boxes went with the body style change, not a specific year, so 89 on trucks and 90 on Runners. (I think)
 
From the research I've been doing, it looks like all I'll need to do is shorten the steering shaft? May give it a go and have a welding shop welder together.
 

corax

Explorer
From the research I've been doing, it looks like all I'll need to do is shorten the steering shaft? May give it a go and have a welding shop welder together.

DO NOT WELD THE SHAFT TOGETHER - From what BlkNBlu posted, you can just drill out the pins to shorten it - those are "shear pins" designed to pop and allow the shaft to shorten in a frontal accident, this would keep the shaft from being pushed up into you - if you want, once it's at the length you need, redrill the holes and use a small bolt. those pins aren't there to keep one part of the shaft from rotating relative to the other half
 
DO NOT WELD THE SHAFT TOGETHER - From what BlkNBlu posted, you can just drill out the pins to shorten it - those are "shear pins" designed to pop and allow the shaft to shorten in a frontal accident, this would keep the shaft from being pushed up into you - if you want, once it's at the length you need, redrill the holes and use a small bolt. those pins aren't there to keep one part of the shaft from rotating relative to the other half

Gotcha. Well, I'm going to the junk yard to pull some parts. I've printed off the differential code list, so maybe I'll be lucky and get at least half of the gearing i need! Plus I need to snatch the sun visors out... mine are all funky.



I had a scare yesterday. I looked down and my oil pressure gauge was down on NOTHING! After checking to make sure my leaky front main hadnt blown I scratched my head....... and with a :exclaim: I remembered that when I replaced my fuel filter, I unplugged a little connector.... obviously this was the oil pressure sensor... DOH!
 

Grim Reaper

Expedition Leader
DO NOT WELD THE SHAFT TOGETHER - From what BlkNBlu posted, you can just drill out the pins to shorten it - those are "shear pins" designed to pop and allow the shaft to shorten in a frontal accident, this would keep the shaft from being pushed up into you - if you want, once it's at the length you need, redrill the holes and use a small bolt. those pins aren't there to keep one part of the shaft from rotating relative to the other half

Actually I think the pins are plastic and you can heat the shaft with a blow torch to melt the plastic ans slide it up. Then when it cools it will not have any slop in it.
 

austintaco

Explorer
I had a local shop, Krawltex, do my crossover steering install and the shaft had to be adjusted. If you need a visual, search for crossover steering installs on Solid axle trucks and they should have some photos of the procedure.
 

austintaco

Explorer
Ahhhh. fun with Pitman arms.
Spray with pb blaster, use a GOOD PULLER, not a cheap one. They can and will break. Some suggest putting a C clamp around the puller to prevent the arms from coming off. Bang on it, cheater bar, heat, etc.....Use all of the tricks or at least be ready to. If its been on there for awhile, get a 6 pack.
 
Was there any fluid in it?
Yep, lots of fluid..... had to spend about 10 minutes getting it out of the lines and box.......

Ahhhh. fun with Pitman arms.
Spray with pb blaster, use a GOOD PULLER, not a cheap one. They can and will break. Some suggest putting a C clamp around the puller to prevent the arms from coming off. Bang on it, cheater bar, heat, etc.....Use all of the tricks or at least be ready to. If its been on there for awhile, get a 6 pack.


Heh, I couldnt get the pitman arm off at the yard, and they felt sorry for me.... took 2 trips, my brother in law, and two 17mm sockets (busted one) to get just the gear box out.... so they didnt charge me for the pitman arm, another $8 bucks.

I got a fuel sending unit out of the truck too, hopefully it'll work in my truck. It was the only toyota with a gas tank left in it....

Also tried to get the ball joints out of the truck (to keep as spares), but didnt have necessary tools... its funny these toyotas... have odd sized nuts and bolts. I've never used a 17mm or 19mm socket before... much less box end wrenches... which I didnt have...


Have I told you guys I'm a non mechanical person? This truck has been the first truck I've done major-ish wrenching on... Learning a lot though. I know just about every nut and bolt on my motorcycles, and i'd like to become similar with this truck. I want to know what works and what doesnt and how to fix it if it doesnt work. Definately glad to have this and other communities available with folks willing to help, so thanks to all of you!
 

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