1987 4Runner- Expedition Build Up.

[corax]

So the part I'm confused about, am I removing the little vacuum plate thingy that you mentioned or just the hose? Why the reference to the two phillips screws? Do I remove the whole thing or just the hose?

It should be the entire vacuum plate thingy (dashpot), not just the hose with the filter, IIRC the dashpot is held on by 2 philips screws - pull the whole thing off

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

It should be the entire vacuum plate thingy (dashpot), not just the hose with the filter, IIRC the dashpot is held on by 2 philips screws - pull the whole thing off

I've had that at one point or another on every 22RE I've owned (can also set a TPS code because the throttle doesn't completely close) - see the thing in the green circle? it's held on by 2 phillips screws and teh vacuum line just goes to a little plastic filter (not connected to the intake) -remove it. you don't need it. it slows the throttle plate right before it closes completely, but often times it gets sticky and won't retract fully. I've had no issues on any of my previous Toyotas with it off and couldn't tell any difference

Well, from the look of it, its got two little springs, the spring you can see there helps pull the throttle back down, but then on top of the d-pot is another spring pushing the throttle back up, with a little rod also.
I may be over thinking it, but just trying ot understand. I dont really understand the function of the assembly anyways.

I've been searching all morning and by luck found this on yotatech.com :

Had a similar problem in my '88 4Runner--idle would intermittently stick between 1500-2000 when I stopped at a light. If I popped the gas peddle it immediately returned to normal idle rpms. This went on for over a year before I tried to fix it. When controlling the throttle at the throttle body, I noticed if I allowed the throttle to return slowly the rpms would stick, but if I let it snap back the rpms were normal. Then when it stuck I noticed with light pressure I could get the throttle to close and rpms drop to normal. I initially focused on Dashpot, but filter worked fine (blew on it both ways, easy one, difficult the other) and the rod seemed to work ok (lubed it with silicone spray). Then I did the simple first--I got some throttle body/choke cleaner safe for electrical sensors and a baby bottle brush. Parked the rear of the 4Runner on an incline so throttle body was pointing downhill, then cleaned out tons of tar-like residue from the throttle body. Idles perfectly again.

Exactly the problem, exact results.......... until it did it to him again, and he found that the throttle cable was sticking. I ride motorbike, i'll get my cable luber out sometime today, if it gets over 30* I hate cold.

 

[AttoirRERE]

My truck does that too.

I've got a quirky idle as well on my '94 V6. I fired it up, let it get to operating temp, and went out the other day determined to fix it, and I couldn't get it to idle at anything but a rock solid 800 rpm.

That's how these idle issues usually work for me.

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

I've got a quirky idle as well on my '94 V6. I fired it up, let it get to operating temp, and went out the other day determined to fix it, and I couldn't get it to idle at anything but a rock solid 800 rpm.

That's how these idle issues usually work for me.

http://tech.yotatech.com/toyota-research/f-116.html

Check out 125 pages there. :Wow1:

:sombrero:

What is yours doing Joseph?

 

[corax]

Sounds like a thorough throttle body cleaning is the real fix - I'm guessing that the reason taking the dashpot off has worked for me in the past is that it wasn't there to slow the throttle closing (which made it easier to get stuck). Good to hear you got it fixed though

 

[irish_11]

Exactly the problem, exact results.......... until it did it to him again, and he found that the throttle cable was sticking. I ride motorbike, i'll get my cable luber out sometime today, if it gets over 30* I hate cold.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what was your solution to this problem? I am having the exact same issue. Did removing the dashpot fix it? or did you take apart the throttle body and clean it? or both?

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what was your solution to this problem? I am having the exact same issue. Did removing the dashpot fix it? or did you take apart the throttle body and clean it? or both?

Well, I managed t get away with just cleaning the throttle body out by spraying choke and carb cleaner into the TB. You've got to remove the air intake hose to get to it of course.... no worries about removing TB completely unless yours is gummed up that bad. If the problem occurs again, I'll remove it and clean it more thoroughly. Drove around town with it for a while today and no issues at all. Well, except that I was used to being able to take off from a light without giving it any gas!

 

[irish_11]

Well, I managed t get away with just cleaning the throttle body out by spraying choke and carb cleaner into the TB. You've got to remove the air intake hose to get to it of course.... no worries about removing TB completely unless yours is gummed up that bad. If the problem occurs again, I'll remove it and clean it more thoroughly. Drove around town with it for a while today and no issues at all. Well, except that I was used to being able to take off from a light without giving it any gas!

Makes sense to me, I'll give that a try. Mine stuck on me again this morning on the way to work, so it'll be nice when I dont have to worry about tapping the gas while I'm idling at lights.

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

40 ft of various colored wire, $20
2 Hella 500 Lights, $60.
Cobra CB radio, $80
The "Oh ********!" moment from an electrical fire under the hood.......... :Wow1:



















.....the cost of new underwear

 

[RU55ELL]

:Wow1:

Is everything ok or did you burn something up in the fire?

 

[Mr. Leary]

Campfires are supposed to be started outside the truck, Scott! :coffeedrink:

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

Campfires are supposed to be started outside the truck, Scott! :coffeedrink:

I learned a new way to start a camp fire for sure.... use cracked up speaker wire to short out.
That is the only conclusion i've come up with is that the wire I used managed to crack and short out, due to cold weather I think. This of course was upstream of the fuse and did not blow the fuse, in otherwords, it was after the fuse before the CB. The wires burned between the firewall and fuse..... so I reckon the short was in there somewhere....

Localized burning only though... no damage that i could see, but scared the ever living 'fire' out of me.

 

[RU55ELL]

This just came to mind when I was looking at your roof rack plans, what if you ran a piece of tube that comes up alongside the body in front of the fenderwell and the same on a steel rear bumper. Then run pipe up along the body with an inch or so of clearance all the way up above your top, then mount a roof rack to that? You would give yourself more cargo room and you could just slide the top off out from under the rack. Just a thought.

Something like this, but straighter, lol:

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

This just came to mind when I was looking at your roof rack plans, what if you ran a piece of tube that comes up alongside the body in front of the fenderwell and the same on a steel rear bumper. Then run pipe up along the body with an inch or so of clearance all the way up above your top, then mount a roof rack to that? You would give yourself more cargo room and you could just slide the top off out from under the rack. Just a thought.

Something like this, but straighter, lol:

I like it. I'm hoping to buy a tubing bender this year. But thats sorta along the lines of my original idea to bolt the roof rack frame to the body.

 

[RU55ELL]

I don't think it would be good to mount anything to the drip rails though. It would be easy to bend them if something in the rack bounced enough to cause and impact/impulse load on them. Heck, you can bend them fairly easy with your hand.