rdcolorado
Observer
Slick looking cupholder! Where can you buy that Dibond?
1992 G3500 Quigley camper / hauler
- Thread starter kewilso3
- Start date
DiBond is actually a brand name, 'aluminum composite panel' is more generic term. Our local source is Grimco:
https://www.grimco.com/InfoPages/locations/denver.aspx
Their version is called max-metal.
https://www.grimco.com/Products.aspx?cid=0198
I should mention that there are a variety of painted finishes, as well as the brushed look that I used, and several mirror / polished options. Sign shops would be most likely to carry stock. It's also used as building cladding sometimes I think.
https://www.grimco.com/InfoPages/locations/denver.aspx
Their version is called max-metal.
https://www.grimco.com/Products.aspx?cid=0198
I should mention that there are a variety of painted finishes, as well as the brushed look that I used, and several mirror / polished options. Sign shops would be most likely to carry stock. It's also used as building cladding sometimes I think.
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
I am using the 1/8" peel and stick stuff from RAAM Audio, sold by the yard in 55" wide rolls, not sure which compound it is. I don't believe this is the most economic solution, and I chose it mainly for the convenience and simplicity. It does seem to be effective, but I can't really get a good sense of the overall improvement until I do more work on the doors, etc. Seems to work better than the adhesive butyl 'protecto wrap' and the frost-king duct insulation.
Yes, the peel-n-stick ensolite is not cheap, but it certainly is fast and easy... I get 1/8 scrap pieces (40ish" x 50ish" pieces) without the adhesive backing from a local upholstery supply house for $20 a pop, and that's the best deal I've found. I use it with Butyl sheets, reflectix, and glue with spray 90 from 3M.
Good graphics, but I like this one best. Looking forward to this build.Daydreaming at work again...
Thanks I also like that graphic direction the most so far. I cut out my first rear door panel yesterday, from 1/2" thick expanded PVC board. I installed T-nuts in pockets on the back side, then mounted the panel to the door using rivnuts / nutserts in the door skin. The T-nuts are threaded 1/4-20 and spaced on a 5x5 pattern. Keeping it versatile and modular where possible.
T-nuts on the pack side:
Installed:
T-nuts on the pack side:
Installed:
screwball48
Explorer
Now that is a cool idea.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I will probably never use half of those inserts, but why not install them now? I will keep all other inserts on the same grid pattern, so if I make any accessories down the road like hangers, shelves, storage, whatever, they can be moved around to different places or taken out when not needed.
I stuffed closed-cell foam in the door cavity, then applied ensolite over the skin (exactly behind the pvc panel you see). I used expanding foam to bridge the gaps between outer sheet metal and inner door structure as you can see a bit above the pvc panel. This really helped the door feel solid and it doesn't reverberate in typical sheet metal fashion.
Other than that, I have cut all of my floor insulation (1/2" pink foam) and cut the rigid floor panels as well. I chose PVC board again for longevity and because it's extremely flat, consistent, and nice to work with. Here's a piece fresh after cutting on the CNC.
I ordered some industrial vinyl flooring but it will take 2 weeks to arrive for some reason, looks like this except I ordered brown to stick with the creepy vibe-
Other than that, I have cut all of my floor insulation (1/2" pink foam) and cut the rigid floor panels as well. I chose PVC board again for longevity and because it's extremely flat, consistent, and nice to work with. Here's a piece fresh after cutting on the CNC.
I ordered some industrial vinyl flooring but it will take 2 weeks to arrive for some reason, looks like this except I ordered brown to stick with the creepy vibe-