1998 RHD 110 300tdi build - Patience

[Roam.Wild]

Just picked up one of my dream rigs! Will use this space as my build and travel logs. We have grand plans for this!

1998 Defender 110 5 door
300tdi (Luckily re-built 30,000 km ago!)
R380 5 speed
Galvanized frame & factory A/C!! Got lucky with this one!!

Fresh off the boat from South Africa, we are headed out of the country for some warmer weather, so unfortunately won't have any fun progress to share until end of next month. Have some basic maintenance to get done first, probably some new wheels and tires too. But then I will enjoy it as is for a month or so before I start throwing fun things at it.

 

[douglastic]

Congrats!
My dream as well.

 

[Roam.Wild]

Got my 5 new Wolf steel rims in, now on the hunt for tires. Going between the 235/85r16 or the 265/75r16. I can get the BFG K03 in both sizes, but the 265/75s would be over $200 more (for 5) and just about 5lbs heavier per tire, which was surprising only being 1 inch wider.

I thought really hard about the 255/85R16 (33"). But the weight difference is crazy. Like 14lbs per tire between the 31" K03 (46lbs) and the only AT tire in that size is the WildPeak AT4W at 60lbs per! I have run like 6 sets of the AT3W so I know they are great tires, but damn never really thought about the weight before, but now with a whopping 130hp, I need to consider how much tires weigh I guess.


Wondering if a set of 3mm spacers will set off the look if I don't get the wider tire.

Ordered a bunch of maintenance items (full filter set, all new suspension bushings, rear main seal, window seals, engine gasket set), boost pin / ring, a snorkel, diesel heater and sound deadening to do when we get back from Guatemala. If anyone has any input on things to check or replace due to mileage (200k miles) I'd be all ears. I need to get fully under it and do a very through inspection.

The rear main seal is leaking pretty good, I think I am going to drop the transmission to get to it instead of pulling the engine. I am going to go for the upgraded style with the two bolts in the bottom to hopefully help with the persistent leaking. Seems these are a very, very common pain point.

The clutch is fine, however since I will be dropping it all anyways, should I just go ahead and do the LOF Power Clutch while I have it all down? Decisions decisions...

I am hoping I can get out and hit a few dirt roads to test out the suspension before the snow really starts to pack in. It currently has Rancho air suspension. Not a huge fan of Rancho or air shocks, but seeing as the OME kit is a hair over $1000 I am likely to leave them on, for now at least, if they are feeling nice.

 

[redneck44]

Check rim width recommendation for the tires. I ran Toyo open country that were ok for the 6.5 wolf rims.
Definitely replace the clutch, I went with a 130 clutch on my old110, but LOF are the current go to for clutches, also get the heavy duty release bearing. Check the clutch lever for wear, replace or weld a plate on the back of the pivot point.
Get a kit of fixings for the floor and transmission tunnel, YRM do them.
Fit a Slick shift kit to the gearbox as well.
Check the transfer box output bearings, fairly easy to change. Check/ replace Propshaft UJ's while they are out.

 

[wyowandering]

Got my 5 new Wolf steel rims in, now on the hunt for tires. Going between the 235/85r16 or the 265/75r16. I can get the BFG K03 in both sizes, but the 265/75s would be over $200 more (for 5) and just about 5lbs heavier per tire, which was surprising only being 1 inch wider.

I thought really hard about the 255/85R16 (33"). But the weight difference is crazy. Like 14lbs per tire between the 31" K03 (46lbs) and the only AT tire in that size is the WildPeak AT4W at 60lbs per! I have run like 6 sets of the AT3W so I know they are great tires, but damn never really thought about the weight before, but now with a whopping 130hp, I need to consider how much tires weigh I guess.

View attachment 903622
Wondering if a set of 3mm spacers will set off the look if I don't get the wider tire.

Ordered a bunch of maintenance items (full filter set, all new suspension bushings, rear main seal, window seals, engine gasket set), boost pin / ring, a snorkel, diesel heater and sound deadening to do when we get back from Guatemala. If anyone has any input on things to check or replace due to mileage (200k miles) I'd be all ears. I need to get fully under it and do a very through inspection.

The rear main seal is leaking pretty good, I think I am going to drop the transmission to get to it instead of pulling the engine. I am going to go for the upgraded style with the two bolts in the bottom to hopefully help with the persistent leaking. Seems these are a very, very common pain point.

The clutch is fine, however since I will be dropping it all anyways, should I just go ahead and do the LOF Power Clutch while I have it all down? Decisions decisions...

I am hoping I can get out and hit a few dirt roads to test out the suspension before the snow really starts to pack in. It currently has Rancho air suspension. Not a huge fan of Rancho or air shocks, but seeing as the OME kit is a hair over $1000 I am likely to leave them on, for now at least, if they are feeling nice.

IMO a 255/85 is the perfect size tire on a 110. They add a bit better ground clearance and a good ride when aired down on rough roads. I havent removed the trans/transfer case to do a clutch but I have pulled a 200TDI in under an hour.... pretty simple. I would replace the water pump and timing belt while it was out and getting new seals anyway. Also pull the main caps and rod caps and take a look at the bearings. Pretty easy to roll a new set in if they are worn (evenly).

 

[DieselRanger]

Got my 5 new Wolf steel rims in, now on the hunt for tires. Going between the 235/85r16 or the 265/75r16. I can get the BFG K03 in both sizes, but the 265/75s would be over $200 more (for 5) and just about 5lbs heavier per tire, which was surprising only being 1 inch wider.

I thought really hard about the 255/85R16 (33"). But the weight difference is crazy. Like 14lbs per tire between the 31" K03 (46lbs) and the only AT tire in that size is the WildPeak AT4W at 60lbs per! I have run like 6 sets of the AT3W so I know they are great tires, but damn never really thought about the weight before, but now with a whopping 130hp, I need to consider how much tires weigh I guess.

I have found, from driving everything off-road from a lowered Audi wagon to a lightly lifted Subaru to a coil sprung Volkswagen SUV to a modern air-sprung Land Rover and all its tech wizardry...that unless you are always hammering off road, even with a heavy load, that heavy triple-ply sidewall Load Range E tires are generally overkill. If you're driving conscientiously off road, tread, pressure, and sidewall height are essential measures of merit.

That said, who doesn't like a good blast across a playa or finding the "floating speed" over some washboard? If you're going to be driving over sharp Arizona caliche more often than desert and, maybe a heavier tire makes more sense.

 

[douglastic]

I think an XL rated tire is the perfect middle ground

 

[Roam.Wild]

Decided on going with the 255/85R16 WildPeak AT4W! Got those on order and will give the 110 a bit of a beefier look vs the 235s. Its a much heavier tire, but luckily I can roll around on it for a week or so and if I don't like them Discount will swap in the new ones.

Included in this round of maintenance is the steering damper. However, it seems I have two, one on both arms. I can not find anything on the internet about this and wondering about just taking the one on the track rod. Every single video I have seen is just the normal drag link one. I ordered the OME one to replace it. With the 33s should I just leave the rear on as well? I did order 2 of the OME dampers just in case.

Front, business as usual:


The track bar one?

 

[Arjan]

Obviously, it all comes down to personal taste etc. but the 235/85R16 never let us down.