19v custom camper battery... will a MPPT charge it?
- Thread starter rruff
- Start date
rruff
Explorer
Genuine 11.8A 230W AC Adapter Charger For MSI GE75 RAIDER 10SE-482 Power Supply | eBay
MSI GP65 Leopard 10SFK-047 10SFK-062 Laptop. Includes USA outlet plug, no other countries outlet plugs will be included. Item Includes: AC Adapter & One Power Cord. 1 x AC Adapter. Outlet: 3-prong. AC Input: 100 ~ 240V 50~ 60Hz.
www.ebay.com
I shouldn't rely on my faulty memory... it's 19.5v and 230w.
Here is an example "Hobby charger" with touch screen, does not require balance leads to be connected, and has a PSU output mode
EV Peak AK840
rated 1000W but really 40A at 19.5 so 780W that's overkill, and requires high voltage input for that
Likely 24V input will be plenty in order to get what what you need
manualzz.com
Sparse availability but gives you an idea
EV Peak AK840
rated 1000W but really 40A at 19.5 so 780W that's overkill, and requires high voltage input for that
Likely 24V input will be plenty in order to get what what you need
Manual | Manualzz
manualzz.com
Sparse availability but gives you an idea
Here's a straight converter from a very reliable supplier
PST-SR700-adj https://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm
And an example of cheap Chinese from Ali, might be OK
PST-SR700-adj https://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm
And an example of cheap Chinese from Ali, might be OK
Peter_n_Margaret
Adventurer
Depends entirely on the particular controller.
Mine could. Every aspect is user controllable. If you can set all the charge parameters, then why not?
I presume your battery will be a nominal 18V? 3 x 6V in series?
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
rruff
Explorer
What controller do you have? LiFe batteries? That's roughly true, yes. Nominal is more like 3.2x6.
workerdrone
Part time fulltimer
300w inverter, done. Doesn't even need to be pure sine I don't think
rruff
Explorer
That isn't as bad as calicamper's suggestion, since you only have 2 contraptions in between the battery and laptop, rather than 3. Devices that are inefficient (turn energy into heat), expensive, and failure prone (could even kill the laptop). Wouldn't zero be better? Seems obvious to me.
Peter_n_Margaret
Adventurer
It is irrelevent what the controller is if it is fully configurable, and 3 x 6V lead acids = nominal 18V.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
If I were going to buy a pack for this 19V use case, 6S LFP would be my choice.
But again, sticking to a 12V or 24V House bank makes a lot more sense, then using one of the above devices to provide 19Vdc.
Most controllers auto-sense when they power up whether they are in 12Vnom or 24V
Those that allow user-custom voltage setpoints jsually only allow a limited range that does not extend to 19V.
So I too am very curious, would appreciate anyone posting a link to any SC that can output 19V
But again, sticking to a 12V or 24V House bank makes a lot more sense, then using one of the above devices to provide 19Vdc.
Most controllers auto-sense when they power up whether they are in 12Vnom or 24V
Those that allow user-custom voltage setpoints jsually only allow a limited range that does not extend to 19V.
So I too am very curious, would appreciate anyone posting a link to any SC that can output 19V
rruff
Explorer
I was wondering if you knew it was possible to create a custom configuration for any battery using your controller. I've been reading through the Victron BlueSolar MPPT manual, and it does allow for custom charge profiles, but it doesn't explicitly state that it can be configured to charge batteries that are something besides 12v, 24v, 32v, or 48v. Their software or hardware might be stuck on 12v increments.
I'm making a LiFePO4 battery, with 3.2v cells.
Peter_n_Margaret
Adventurer
If you programme the charge voltage and the stop charging voltage, the controller does not need to know anything else.
LiFePO4 is probably even easier than LA as you need no float.
Try it. Or talk to Victron.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
LiFePO4 is probably even easier than LA as you need no float.
Try it. Or talk to Victron.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
These days modern charge sources only have two voltage setpoints.
The CV voltage, is the max the regulator will allow, while striving it is called Bulk or CC stage, once reached, that is Absorb or CV stage.
The 2nd setpoint is Float V which is for after the actual charging is complete, should be quite lower.
The stop-charging algorithm varies a lot from one maker or unit to the next
but is rarely based on just voltage, since that would mean no CV/Absorb stage
The CV voltage, is the max the regulator will allow, while striving it is called Bulk or CC stage, once reached, that is Absorb or CV stage.
The 2nd setpoint is Float V which is for after the actual charging is complete, should be quite lower.
The stop-charging algorithm varies a lot from one maker or unit to the next
but is rarely based on just voltage, since that would mean no CV/Absorb stage
Last edited:
calicamper
Expedition Leader
He was trying to be complicated for power sensitive expensive stuff. So why not be complicated using stuff designed to protect said expensive sensitive tech ???. I mean whats more important here? Running a weird voltage system and trying to cobble some weird devices to maintain the weird voltage? Or having safe reliable proper voltage to said costly sensitive stuff?