2000 Suburban K1500 budget low lift with 37"s

02TahoeMD

Explorer
Pretty cool project you have going on here, I will second the vote for doing your own body lift. You may even want to look into getting some delrin to make the spacers as I think it is easier to work with than aluminum stock. Over on Z71T-S there is some information about a do it yourself "progressive" body lift, that gave a body lift only the bare minimum that was needed. Click me!
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
I would love to have a 1" body lift on my rig. just to give that bit of extra space. Add that with the key/spacer lift, it will be the perfect height for my usage.
 

mccustomize

Explorer
http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-products-15in-body-lift-chevy-gmc-pickup/c9156

I'm sure the avalanche can't be that much different to be able to use the Zone offroad 1.5" bodylift

They also sell 1 1/4" lift blocks individually.

As far as the G80 in the front diff, I have not seen it done personally, although you might find something useful from the H3 adventure line diffs. Personally I would leave it open and reduce the strain on parts that are hard to replace on the trail. A locked rear is going to get you a lot of places you didn't think you could go anyway. I would not do a mini-spool, your will be breaking C-clips and axles. Tru-tracs aren't that expensive.
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Man, where did you find the ford keys for 18 bucks....I tried scrap yards, etc and no go. dealer wants 180 new for them.

KojackJKU,

Keep an eye out for them on eBay. There are few for sale for $30, if you keep looking you'll find used ones for $15-20. Here is one I found for $22 right now.

Search "1997 - 2003 Ford F-150 / Expedition 1" 3in Torsion Keys Lifting Leveling FORGED: on ebay

Good luck
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Playing in the snow

Got 12" last weekend here in the mountains around Vegas, here are some pics.

snow1.jpg

snow2.jpg

snow3.jpg

Snow melted and compressed to 6-8" deep, once again just like in the sand and loose dirt my shoes sank in deeper than the truck's tires.
 
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CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Body lifts have their place and are a necessary evil- used within reason. There are many good reasons for sensible 1"-1.5" with no real drawbacks to them in this size. 3" has no place anywhere. Save yourself the $150 and other headache associated with that and go to your local steel yard. 3" will open up many other issues as well that will create headache for things like steering, cable and shifter routing, AC routing, etc. Pick up a scrap chunk of aluminum and go to work. I ran into same situation on my Suburban HD build and could not find anyone selling a 1"-1.5" body lift for the Suburban as they are all 2" or 3" kits. I got a chunk of aluminum and spent some time on the lathe. These are easy to do, just time consuming. Many kits and many folks will do typical "hockey puck" style just flat on both ends. That style would be super fast and easy to make. I chamfered tops of mine to fit recess on body like OE mount did, and recessed bottom to overlap the lower mount. They measure 1.5" total height but only give 1.25" of lift due to .25" recess for overlap. Replaced all the body mounts with energy suspension pieces as many were shot when I pulled them out. AC lines in front will still fit nicely through factory frame port without pulling to tight to cause need for spending money on discharge and recharge or having new lines made. No steering frame bracket relocation needed, no extended or re-routed trans or t-case shifter brackets or mods needed nothing other than bolt it in and be done. In rear the added height should be more than enough to clear rear AC lines without issue. I'm in process of tucking 40s now, and like you- refuse to give up rear heat/AC.

And- second fuel tank??? what type/style tank are you looking for? Trying to go 60 gallon total? My '97 3/4 ton has 42 gallon tank-but fits frame contours and was a real PITA to cut frame sections out and raise to stuff the tank after the BL went in. The frame crossmembers are shaped to the tank itself. I forget exact dimensions but the 42 gallon is a big tank that takes up ton of room. Forget what year the change took effect but they went to the long/skinny 30 gal size or close to it. Too bad you're so far away- I have full tank and evap setup complete from an '05 1500HD taking up room in the shop that needs to go away... Regardless, look around a little more- if you're willing to do a little more work, I think you can do a fair bit better on your total budget and save a few more dollars there to put towards fuel and camping adventures... :)

Best of Luck,

Mike

Mike,

I used to have a 96 or 98 K1500 and the 42.5 gal tank in that monster was amazing. I can not find anyone that makes a reasonably priced larger tank for the GMT800 truck. I looked at a couple options for the rear. I can get a 25gal older full size blazer tank, or 35gal older suburban tank to fit where my spare tire goes. However both of these tanks will stick out lower than I want. My other option that I am inching towards is a 1970 mustang/cougar fuel tanks, they come in 16 or 22 gal. Both are 33" wide, 24" long, 22gal is 10" deep and 16gal is 8" deep. Tanks are $70 shipped on ebay, sending unit is $30, low pressure transfer pump is $10, and I will need to cut out the spare tire hoist bracket and make a bracket for the tank with square tubing. So far running the fill to either the factory fuel door and have two gas caps or behind the licence plate and put the plate on a spring loaded flip down bracket.

Thanx for the heads up regarding the spacers. I'm going to have to spend some quality time under the truck to figure out what is attached and run through the frame. I don't want to put in a body lift and then have to go back and re-route and re-charge the AC lines, kind of defeats the initial purpose of the body lift. Every step gets me back to the drawing board to explore new solutions.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans.
 

Burb One

Adventurer
Best option I found is a 20 gallon tank from an 1996 F150 fits perfectly between the trailer hitch mounts. It doesn't stick down very far, so my hitch acts like a skid plate.

I found the idea from the link below. If you want any pictures of my install, I can post some. I used the stock f150 in tank pump and tied it into the filler hose of the stock suburban tank. With a switch, I can switch all the gas into the main tank. I also purchased a fuel gauge for the f150 (ebay, new) so I can watch the fuel transfer on demand. Takes about 7-8 minutes while driving. I routed the fill hose for the f150 tank into my fuel door as well, so I cna fill both tanks from the same side/ stop.

http://chevyavalancheclub.com/index.php?topic=11249.0


Edit: Guess I did post some pictures of my install. Look at post #117 below. Also if you can't/ don't want to weld the cross beams are optional. I just found it easier to weld, but you could easily use the portions of the tire carrier to bolt to, with some creative cutting. It would be more than strong enough.

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...g-Suburban-Build-Thread?p=2172570#post2172570
 
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CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Best option I found is a 20 gallon tank from an 1996 F150 fits perfectly between the trailer hitch mounts. It doesn't stick down very far, so my hitch acts like a skid plate.

I found the idea from the link below. If you want any pictures of my install, I can post some. I used the stock f150 in tank pump and tied it into the filler hose of the stock suburban tank. With a switch, I can switch all the gas into the main tank. I also purchased a fuel gauge for the f150 (ebay, new) so I can watch the fuel transfer on demand. Takes about 7-8 minutes while driving. I routed the fill hose for the f150 tank into my fuel door as well, so I cna fill both tanks from the same side/ stop.

http://chevyavalancheclub.com/index.php?topic=11249.0


Edit: Guess I did post some pictures of my install. Look at post #117 below. Also if you can't/ don't want to weld the cross beams are optional. I just found it easier to weld, but you could easily use the portions of the tire carrier to bolt to, with some creative cutting. It would be more than strong enough.

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...g-Suburban-Build-Thread?p=2172570#post2172570

Geronracing,

Wow, that's a ridiculously clean look, wow, looks fantastic. That looks like a much better fit than a cougar or mustang tank. I bet it would be much cheaper and easier to find at a junk yard than the other tank. I was thinking about using an intermatic timer switch for the transfer pump, that way it doesn't stay on for longer than it needs to, but other than that your setup is exactly what I have in mind. Looks like this setup will save me around $50 for the full setup, next time you are in Vegas I owe you a beer.

Andrei
 

Burb One

Adventurer
Geronracing,

Wow, that's a ridiculously clean look, wow, looks fantastic. That looks like a much better fit than a cougar or mustang tank. I bet it would be much cheaper and easier to find at a junk yard than the other tank. I was thinking about using an intermatic timer switch for the transfer pump, that way it doesn't stay on for longer than it needs to, but other than that your setup is exactly what I have in mind. Looks like this setup will save me around $50 for the full setup, next time you are in Vegas I owe you a beer.

Andrei

Haha no worries! I'm sure the tank can be found in a junkyard. If I remember, I think it was sold on 1990-1997 F150 trucks with rear tank option, so there must be at least a million out there!
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Pretty cool project you have going on here, I will second the vote for doing your own body lift. You may even want to look into getting some delrin to make the spacers as I think it is easier to work with than aluminum stock. Over on Z71T-S there is some information about a do it yourself "progressive" body lift, that gave a body lift only the bare minimum that was needed. Click me!

02TahoeMD,

Your truck looks great, especially the 100 series bumper and the 60 series snorkel. Did the BlackBear tune increase your MPG? Looking at the prices for delrin I will be saving $20 on the parts but spending more time on the fit and finish, still a great option to keep on the table. Never heard of the progressive lift, but I really like it. I realistically only need 2" up front and 1" in the rear for tire clearance so delrin will be perfect for that application.

Andrei
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Hey Crazy, any new pics of your rig? Cheers, chilli..:)

Chilli,

As requested, earlier this summer before I put the 37's on. Washington DC to Las Vegas. Had about 2,000lbs in the truck, and another 1,000lbs of gear and toys in the trailer.

roadtrip.jpg

Working on an adventure with the camper and bigger tires in a couple weeks to show off the off-road/adventure capability of the setup.

Andrei
 
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02TahoeMD

Explorer
02TahoeMD,

Your truck looks great, especially the 100 series bumper and the 60 series snorkel. Did the BlackBear tune increase your MPG? Looking at the prices for delrin I will be saving $20 on the parts but spending more time on the fit and finish, still a great option to keep on the table. Never heard of the progressive lift, but I really like it. I realistically only need 2" up front and 1" in the rear for tire clearance so delrin will be perfect for that application.

Andrei

Thanks Andrei. I think the progressive lift idea would be perfect for your project if you only need that 2" up front and 1" in back. As for the BlackBear Tune, yes, I saw an increase in my MPG. I think the programming is well worth the money, especially in the case of your rig. If you can get a "rolling tune" done in person, I am sure they could optimize all the parameters that are affected by those 37's you got stuffed under that truck.

I look forward to watching your progress.
 

'05TJLWBRUBY

Adventurer
So, there is only 2" body lifts available for the suburban right? there are no 1"?

If there is, they aren't easy to find. I'd have much rather saved time to buy one vs making it as I ended up having several hours time on the lathe all said and done. But, they came out finished more than what a squared off kit would be as I recessed and contoured mine to fit over factory isolator and contoured to fit body recess. Most kits are flat. If you just go flat on both sides, they could be made very quick and easy.

A good tune is definitely a great mod to have done from someone that knows what they're doing. Power, mileage, overall drivability will all improve from a good tuner. Definitely worth the money there.

Best of luck,

Mike
 

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