2000 Suburban K1500 budget low lift with 37"s

[CrazyDrei]

Thank you for that informative write up Mr Crazy. I have to say you really put your rig through some serious abuse. I am looking forward to seeing the new suspension set up when you get that ready and installed. Keep your truck running and rocking. Cheers, Chilli..

Chilli,

Too many negative Nancies here lately, here is something to cheer everyone up and keep on believing!

I started putting together my new coilovers.

Old: DS401 Compressed: 10.125" Extended: 14" stroke: 3.875" x1,200# coil = 4,650#
New: DS701 Compressed: 13" Extended: 19.5" stroke: 6.5" x 750# coil = 4,875#

I will be running a longer stroke by 2.625" and a 5% firmer spring which should reduce or eliminate the shock from coil bind.

New coilover setup on left and old on the right.

First step: will be to clean up the mangled drivers side bump stop and rebuild it raising it approximately 2"
Cut and raise passenger side bump stop approximately 2"

Second step: cut off existing top shock mounts and mock up new cardboard shock towers raising the top mount 5"

Third step: cut out 1/4" steel bracket, weld them together and to the frame.

Some combination of the two above that has a longer frame contact point than the JD Fab brackets. I am also looking for side gussets. JK coilover conversion write-ups have been my inspiration. However I will not be frenching the frame to fit the inserts, I will be wrapping the inserts around the frame.

Fourth step: install the new coilovers.

Last step: trim the crap out of the front fenders to allow for the extra 4-6" of wheel travel.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

 

[CrazyDrei]

New UCA’s fix the angles that are now wrong from the cranked torsion bar lift which save ball joints from premature explosions in the middle of nowhere Death Valley, like that coil over of yours that snapped and could have been way worse. DOM is definitely not weaker than those stamped uppers on there now when properly constructed.

Seems pirate4x4 lost one of their sheep

SOLAMF,

I have a 3" body lift, body lift does not require a new UCA since I am running 100% factory suspension parts, factory suspension geometry and angles. Cranking the torsion keys is exactly the same as taking extra weight like seats, trim and carpeting out of the vehicle, it does not lift it, it raises the truck keeping it within the factory geometry, it just looks lifted, it's not. What you are saying is just like me saying that I am going to lower my truck by putting a 2,000# slab of cement in the back since that will lower it.

This was argued earlier in this thread... Provided plenty of entertainment.

As far as DOM tubing goes: I can bend 3/4" DOM pipe with a hand pipe bender, can't bend 3/4" cast UCA in a hand pipe bender. DOM tubing is only stronger when you increase the diameter to 1" or 1.5" which is stronger than 3/4" cast, you are correct. But then again if DOM is so strong why does no one make LCAs out of it but use boxed steel? Because DOM tubing is pretty but not as strong as alternatives: cast or boxed steel.

Back to the actual point of this thread. Thank you so much for following the adventures and misadventures, there will be many more to come. Unlike a Jeep or a Toyota the aftermarket performance market is non existent for GMT800 trucks. What I am doing to mine is what I think will work. Some on my crazy ideas work, some do not. I love all the feedback I get: positive and most importantly negative because it forces mo to go back to the drawing board if I second guess myself. I will draw up a sketch of my mid travel idea in the next day or two and post it, it will make sense and it will work.


Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

 

[SOLAMF]

New UCA’s fix the angles that are now wrong from the cranked torsion bar lift which save ball joints from premature explosions in the middle of nowhere Death Valley, like that coil over of yours that snapped and could have been way worse. DOM is definitely not weaker than those stamped uppers on there now when properly constructed.

SOLAMF,

I have a 3" body lift, body lift does not require a new UCA since I am running 100% factory suspension parts, factory suspension geometry and angles. Cranking the torsion keys is exactly the same as taking extra weight like seats, trim and carpeting out of the vehicle, it does not lift it, it raises the truck keeping it within the factory geometry, it just looks lifted, it's not. What you are saying is just like me saying that I am going to lower my truck by putting a 2,000# slab of cement in the back since that will lower it.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

I was under the impression that you had done a torsion bar lift on here as well as the body lift. I could have sworn I read it, but I’ve read so many threads in this forum I may have gotten it mixed up with another.

I understand how it all works, and you kind of tripped me out when you said you were going to longer coil overs in a post before you actually posted your plan to make the towers. With the new towers, yes, you are correct and will be fine.

As for the DOM/stamped arguments, it’s always debatable either way and using what is correct for your platform and it’s intended usage is all that matters. I agree on the boxed steel, and it seems I’ve been seeing more boxed arms out there, but never for these trucks, or the ones I want to drive of course.

Keep at it, looking forward to seeing how you tackle the front suspension.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[CrazyDrei]

I was under the impression that you had done a torsion bar lift on here as well as the body lift. I could have sworn I read it, but I’ve read so many threads in this forum I may have gotten it mixed up with another.

I do have torsion keys back in and they are cranked, but I have not had to do an alignment for over 4 years and the truck drives straight and tires wear evently so even though the truck sits higher due to the cranked torsion bars I have so much junk in it that the extra weight keeps it down lower to the facotry unloaded ride height.

I understand how it all works, and you kind of tripped me out when you said you were going to longer coil overs in a post before you actually posted your plan to make the towers. With the new towers, yes, you are correct and will be fine.

That makes sense, If I put 5" longer coils I will completely destroy the CVs, UCAs and suspension mounting points and the truck would be too dangerous to even look at, forget driving. I can not go down any lower but I can go up with my wheel travel. Neo once does this because I have to trim 2-3" of the fender to accommodate the higher upward wheel travel. And

Not gonna lie, it's my daily driver and it's tricky to get the sequence and the timing just right so I have minimal downtime.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

 

[CrazyDrei]

Uh, what? How is a long travel kit going to require a new frame every 1000 miles? That is one of the most ridiculous things I've ever heard. Solid bushings won't rip anything out of the frame, ever, so long as your suspension is designed properly.

Seems pirate4x4 lost one of their sheep

..Yea, solid links cause more wear, thats obvious

I am glad that 4BT was able to explain this concept in a much better way than I could.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

 

[VisionxOrb]

CrazyDrei, with the amount of work your doing to the front, you should consider upgrading the bump stops themselves to some kind of longer progressive foam bumps ( or go all they way with hydro but thats more complicated and expensive ).

It makes a big difference in control at speed or rough stuff and much less likely to bend mounts in a oops situation.

 

[02TahoeMD]

250K on your original hubs? I am impressed, but therein lies the difference of someone lucky enough to live in a desert area versus the rust belt. Had to replace both of mine at the 100K mark and there was considerable effort and violence used to get them free. Rust is a foul, evil thing. I am jealous of the ease that you did yours. I think I averaged 2 1/2 hours per side on mine, 80% of which time was dislodging them. Liberal amounts of anti-seize were applied on reassembly, but let's hope I never need to do them again. I am gonna do the GMT900 brake upgrade the next time I need pads, should be this fall. Now that should be an easy job.

 

[chilliwak]

wow thats some cool looking suspension upgrades Mr Crazy. It looks like the welds are really nicely done. I would suggest having a battery powered sawzall with you for your first journey off road to do any custom on the spot trimming. I cant wait to see your stuff installed and you `Burb´out rocking again. Cheers, Chilli...

 

[CrazyDrei]

CrazyDrei, with the amount of work your doing to the front, you should consider upgrading the bump stops themselves to some kind of longer progressive foam bumps ( or go all they way with hydro but thats more complicated and expensive ).

It makes a big difference in control at speed or rough stuff and much less likely to bend mounts in a oops situation.

VisionxOrb,

You are absolutely correct. Bump stops are at the utmost top of my list before I even think about anything else or even going off road. When my shock busted in Death Valley I figured that I could ride out on the factory jouncers/bump stops, yeah, that failed miserably even with 12psi in my tires.

The damage that was done to the UCA mounts and the bump stop itself was clearly eye opening.

I have a couple long overdue projects that I am currently working on this week but next week I will start cutting and making new bump stops. I really want hydraulic but can not justify the price nor do I have any room for it. Next best option is a progressive Energy Suspension Heavy Duty bump stop. Looking at 2.5", 3.5" or 4.5"

This would work with the factory LCA bump location and the upper mount that I will be making out of 1/4" steel. So it should hold the weight of the truck if absolutely necessary and will also prevent future coil bind.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

 

[Mekcanix]

Hi CrazyDrei I have a quick question for you about the speed bleeders, where did you come up with that particular part number. I went on the russells site and it doesnt show anything for a gmt 900? Just asking cause i know I will be needing to bleed the brakes on my 09 1500 at some time

 

[CrazyDrei]

250K on your original hubs? I am impressed, but therein lies the difference of someone lucky enough to live in a desert area versus the rust belt. Had to replace both of mine at the 100K mark and there was considerable effort and violence used to get them free. Rust is a foul, evil thing. I am jealous of the ease that you did yours. I think I averaged 2 1/2 hours per side on mine, 80% of which time was dislodging them. Liberal amounts of anti-seize were applied on reassembly, but let's hope I never need to do them again. I am gonna do the GMT900 brake upgrade the next time I need pads, should be this fall. Now that should be an easy job.

02TahoeMD,

I lived in DC area for 16 years and refused to work on my cars because of the rust. The first time I had to take an undercarriage bolt off I spent 30 minutes with an impact hammer and that was the end of working on east coast cars.

When I first started working on the Sub I was outright depressed by my past east coast rust belt experience and I was highly discouraged until I actually looked under the truck. Yeah the difference was night and day. I actually enjoy getting under the truck and fixing it now.

I am not going to do a write up on replacing ball joint but here are some pictures.

250,000 miles on upper factory ball joint.

Lower factory ball joint with 250,000 miles. Came out with 15! blows with my 3lb hammer!!!!!

Spindle came off rather uneventfully also. I will always buy southwest rust free vehicles the rest of my life no matter where I end up moving to.

Good luck with the GMT900 brakes, it's such an easy no brainer bolt on that it will make you feel like you are working on a Jeep.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

 

[rayra]

On the GMT900 brake upgrade, looks bigger 'cause it is The 900 rotor is 1" bigger in diameter. The lore is you need a 17" or larger rim to have clearance for the calipers, too. I started off with 17s so don't know that for sure. I did the same swap with a secondhand Powerstop kit I bought from member stryder. Been working great and wearing great, so far. Doesn't seem to be as much fade on long downhill fire roads, either, but that might be subjective.

And crap I hadn't noticed the ball joints ran the same way, I'm used to a coil / strut helping me pry things apart.

 

[CrazyDrei]

Hi CrazyDrei I have a quick question for you about the speed bleeders, where did you come up with that particular part number. I went on the russells site and it doesnt show anything for a gmt 900? Just asking cause i know I will be needing to bleed the brakes on my 09 1500 at some time

Mekcanix,

That is a very good question indeed. I cross referenced every place I could and the best I found is that GMT800 fronts are M10-1.5 x33mm. GMT900 fronts are M10-1.5 x 33mm. GMT800 which have dual piston rear calipers are M10-1.0 x 33mm.

Dorman 12702 (M10-1.5 X 33mm) front for GMT800 and GMT900
Dorman 12706 (M10-1.0 x33mm) rear for GMT800 dual piston
Russell Speed bleeders 639580 front GMT800 and GMT900
Russell Speed bleeders 639560 rear GMT800 dual piston

This is the correction from the earlier post with the actual correct part numbers.

This is from the Russell Speed bleeder web site. For some reason is stops at 2009 trucks.

Brakes have been bled and the speed bleeders live up to their name. I had better and faster results with the speed bleeders by myself than I have with regular bleeders with two people or vacuum bleeders.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

 

[Mekcanix]

awesome thanks muchly

 

[CrazyDrei]

wow thats some cool looking suspension upgrades Mr Crazy. It looks like the welds are really nicely done. I would suggest having a battery powered sawzall with you for your first journey off road to do any custom on the spot trimming. I cant wait to see your stuff installed and you `Burb´out rocking again. Cheers, Chilli...

Chilli,

That's the pictures I found online of the closes to what I am thinking about. I stick weld so my welds are nowhere even close to as pretty as those TIG welds in the pictures.

You have a very good point with the sawzall, I do need to get a battery powered one to bring on trips and not just for hacking away at my own truck but for the loot I find on the trail. There is a lot of scrap metal laying around the desert.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!