2001 Infiniti QX4 (R50) build

[marty1977]

nice job, slow and steady gets it done.

with picture taking and filming i got some practice :sombrero:

 

[marty1977]

Here we have what come in the box : light 10" with 6 spot LED in the middle and 2 flood on each side, wiring harness, 2 brackets low and high, instructions and some stickers

brackets are nice and sturdy, good quality like everything else

2 holes drilled in to the bumper support that will make for a solid point of attachment

light installed :wings: i did measure the lengh and I could fit the 20" bar but choice here was dictated by budget

fits like a glove

Its mounted almost at the same hight as the high beam in the reflector so it should work good. I didn't do any night time driving yet but im sure it will be much better then factory high beams. I wired them taking power from existing hight beam so the bar is activated when I turn my high beams witch no longer light up so my power consumption went from 2X55W to 30W . After install I figure out the my DRL wore actually high beam bulbs running on less power and not a separate small light bulb so now I don't have DRL and need to figure out to get them back somehow, maybe I can turn my fog light to do that ( always something do to ). Overall I'm happy with the installation and the light.

THE END

 

[Allof75]

Very clean install, nice work. When you say that the bar replaces the high-beams, on QX4s do your factory HID lowbeams remain on if you have activated your halogen highbeams? I know since you have HIDs it may be a different setup.

 

[marty1977]

Very clean install, nice work. When you say that the bar replaces the high-beams, on QX4s do your factory HID lowbeams remain on if you have activated your halogen highbeams? I know since you have HIDs it may be a different setup.

thanks i was gfoing for clean install and you are correct the low beam HID remain ON when I turn on the high beam that wore halogen and that set up was very bad as you would get this yellow light little bit in the distance but not much more usefull light as you can see below

factory low beam HID

Factory high beam Halogen

New high beam LED light bar

Im still adjusting the proper high but after short test run there is a lot more light, as always pictures don't show it properly but to the naked eye for sure there is a big difference before and after.

 

[Allof75]

Looks like the LEDs filled in the foreground nicely, well done!

 

[marty1977]

Here are few pictures from one of the camping trips this year

Setting up a camp

this guy is always smiling

trying my luck in fishing ( no luck this time )

fire, lake and beautiful night sky a perfect evening

there is a lot of bears in the area so park stuff has these always handy

we went for a first canoe trip with the dog and he did great ( he loves water )

as the name says Arctic Watershed

and on the way home we rolled over 300.000 km

It was one of the best trips so far.

 

[Shanfari]

Wonderful sceneries! I might copy your led high beam LED idea Good for both dark conditions and flashing light-bullies on road *_^

 

[marty1977]

Wonderful sceneries! I might copy your led high beam LED idea Good for both dark conditions and flashing light-bullies on road *_^

I'm thinking for light-bullies to ad lasers

 

[Shanfari]

I'm thinking for light-bullies to ad lasers

Haha! That might end up with a crash! :smiley_drive:

 

[marty1977]

here we go again

exhaust decided to brake so I needed to replace a section and welded back up

I did the tranny pan drop and repainted the pan it was very ugly

shiny

also i replaced lower control arms and ball joints it made a difference

slowly it will be a new car again :smiley_drive:

 

[bushnut]

Hey brother,
I'm about to tackle that lower control arm job on my rig, any tips as to order of operations other than a can full of PB Blaster?

 

[marty1977]

Well yes will be lots of rust to battle. I have a impact gun from crappy tire ( its the chaep one i think 220 ft-lb ) that did a lot of help as always. The bolt on the front side I sprayed with WD40 and cleaned a bit with wire brush as best as I could and that went with no problems. The other side has two bolts holding and again WD40 ( that what I had handy ) I did few threads with impact gun and sprayed some more in the little space that bolt came out then tighten it back and loosen and more WD40 and little more tighten loosen few times and it came out nicely nothing broke. All the bolts did the same way. The ball joint you can get the nut undone as there is a nice cut out in the bottom of the brake shield and again some lube cleaning rust with wire brush and impact gun and there wore no problems there. You will need to pull the axle back to take out the ball joint as it will not come out otherwise I also remove lower bolt on strut and loosen the top one to make it swing out a bit more to pull the axle back so ball joint would come out. I don't have ball joint puller but I have a hammer and you will need to hit hard few times on the spindle ( in the X on attached picture ) and that will with some magic force release the ball joint don't hit the ball joint itself it wont move. Mount in reverse and tighten to spec and final tightening is car on the ground same as rear. If you have any questions fire away I can also take few pictures if that would help you with the write up.

 

[bushnut]

thanks man, I've already done my ball joints (in the spring) I shoulda' done the LCA at the same time but i thought is was OK, and funds were low.

 

[marty1977]

Winter is here. Went on the weekend do some sightseeing.

in other news ( it never ends )

 

[marty1977]

So this happend

I know it happened within last week as I did replace inner and outer tie rods 2 weeks ago and that was not there so I decided to replace all the boots and the axle has some overheating signs. Do you guys think that bad or just put some good quality grease in there and be done with it. Note that all the axle joints had the sign of overheating both axles and on inner and outer joints.