2001 Tacoma Overland (So it Begins)

Scottn

New member
The ride should be just fine - mine was too - but there is a penalty. From the pictures you posted it looks like you have a pretty steep angle on the CVs. That angle on a continuous basis and with the added rigors of turning and a lot of travel puts a heap of stress on those joints, as well as prematurely wearing the protective boots. As sasaholic suggests and when I was running IFS your boots are more likely to tear and start puking grease and potentially damaging the CV joint resulting in failure.

For that reason I always carried a trail spare to swap in the field. In any event I usually ended up rebuilding the axle at least twice per year. Decreasing the angle on the shafts will decrease your risk for that happening. That's part of the reasoning as to why I did a SAC.

Don't make that change and rest assured I'll make you a good deal on half-shafts. ;)


Thank you!!

So the kit came with a front Differential drop kit. I am going to install it tomorrow. Will this help this issue at all? Also in the picture, I have the wheels cranked over to expose the shock for a better pic... But I am sure this is not so much the issue you are speaking of.

I will crank it down as well.

Thank you again. :sombrero:
 

TangoBlue

American Adventurist
Thank you!!

So the kit came with a front Differential drop kit. I am going to install it tomorrow. Will this help this issue at all? Also in the picture, I have the wheels cranked over to expose the shock for a better pic... But I am sure this is not so much the issue you are speaking of.

I will crank it down as well.

Thank you again. :sombrero:

No worries! Your goal should be to minmize the amount the fins actually touch each other -- they will naturally -- but when they are so closely folded together on a continuous basis is when they are more likely to prematurely wear. Just look at an un-modified vehicle in a parking lot for future reference.

A differential drop is a hot topic among wheelers. Some say it helps - others say it doesn't do any good at all but just tip the angle of the clamshell diff. Those folks are so radically opposed to diff drops that they will kick internet sand in your face and are close to the point of threatening to rape your dog or questioning the marital status of your mother.

Me, I installed a diff drop, but let's keep that between us.
 

cruiseroutfit

Well-known member
...A differential drop is a hot topic among wheelers. Some say it helps - others say it doesn't do any good at all but just tip the angle of the clamshell diff. Those folks are so radically opposed to diff drops that they will kick internet sand in your face and are close to the point of threatening to rape your dog or questioning the marital status of your mother...

:sombrero:

I too have the differential drop and it in fact has proved usedful. Not only are my CV's holding up better but I'm not losing axle seals nearly as often. Another side effect of the extreme CV angle particularly at full droop is increased pressure and bind on your axle tube seals, I was having to replace them on a somewhat regular interval. Since going with the diff drop (which does in fact relieve the angle, how its argued otherwise is beyond me) as well as doubling up the seals I've been leak free (fingers crossed).

Sorry for missing the inquiry about the end cap mod, looks like you found a great link. I do mine a bit differently, rather than weld a stud, I make the plate with a captured nut, that way it works a little easier with various bumpers. For example imo the ARB install could be a bit of a pain with the stud setup. I'll go grab a pic on the other computer and add it to this post.
 

TangoBlue

American Adventurist
Thanks Kurt - might as well get it done while it's in the shop. Back then I thought I'd rarely ever use the winch so why go to the extra expense.

But then I said I'd never get a fridge; have dual batteries; need a locker; do a SAC; do this; do that; and the list goes on.... heroin looks like it would have been a cheaper habit.
 

Scottn

New member
So the differential drop is done. Now how much should I take the coil overs down? I am showing 1 3/4 inches of thread, I took it down to 1 3/8 but it took quite an effort.
 

TangoBlue

American Adventurist
That's hard to say but the goal is to reduce that CV angle to prevent binding. I'm no expert and know enough to be dangerous from my own experience. That said, harvest the best opinions and ideas and apply them to your circumstance.

I recommend taking some pictures of your current set-up, post them, and wait for some input from folks with a lot more relevant experience to chime in. This forum is populated with a lot of talent and skill that I've benefitted from.

As to the opinions posted in reply to your questions... not as likely on this forum but be prepared for the occasional curmudgeon to be critical of anything you do just because their Wheaties tasted a little off this morning.
 

TangoBlue

American Adventurist
Thanks. WATTORA thread is still the gold-standard I see. I'd forgotten about the ARB mod thread too... so age is my excuse. Interesting to go through it again.

You know, a tech section wouldn't be a bad idea in the forum as a resource.
 

PHXtaco

Adventurer
Another option if you want to have that much lift in the front is to switch to manual hubs. This way the CVs only turn when you are in four wheel drive rather than all of the time.

I did this and got 75,000 miles out of mine before needing to replace them (and no diff drop).
 

Scottn

New member
So I lowered the coil-overs about 1.5 inches to match up the 2.5 lift I have in back. Much better angle on the front drive shafts!! Thank you all for the advise.

So now it is going to be a ARB rear air locker or new seats, or both.
 

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