2003 Suburban 1500 Pop Top Conversion

[boll_rig]

Glad you guys liked the updates and picks.

Rayra, you know the views are my favorite part too, just couldn't deal with the whole sportsmobile 4 window limitation... Also nice work on the remodel! It looks killer, even for an IT background guy ha. Bummer about the flu though, nothing worse than that.

You know I was really wanted to get over to Yosemite and the sierras in general. Never been in full. I like the idea of recreating old Ansel photos as thats my current background. Keep me posted on your thoughts on that. I agree, now isn't a bad time to visit..

Kenny, the website is looking great, hadn't been on there in a while. Rad designs..



SO unfortunately I took the truck into my local mechanic about the vibration I was feeling in the rear, yet again, and it seems I'm due for a rear diff overhaul. At least all new bearings. Kind of a shocker that I have to deal with another big repair right after getting my whole transfer case re done, then swapped. Got quoted for about 1200 bucks which I just don't have. Wondering how long I could go before addressing it...
Also just seems like I shouldn't be needing this until at least 200k. Only got 160 on the clock right now.. at the most (reads 148k but od broke for a couple years) Anyone got any experience on the matter?

Ontop of that my steering gearbox is leaking pretty good, small leak from the rear diff currently. Transmission coolant lines leaking a bit. Seems like I got a few things to address.

 

[rayra]

Did he SHOW you the play in the axle and pinion?
Rear axle bearings are a relatively straightforward job. As is the rear diff gasket. Easy to disassemble the brakes / hubs and pull the c-clips and take the axles out. Pull it apart all at once and give it a proper going over in person. It's easy to manipulate the parts and see what kind of slop is in the bearings. It's a straightforward weekend's effort.
There's some experience or research needed for the pinion work, it's possible to get that quite wrong and cause more trouble than you fix.
Too, it's more likely to be a U-joint, driveshaft balance or pinion bearing issue anyway. You're more likely to hear the rear wheel bearings before you get vibration out of them. Have you bottomed out / dragged anything lately? Any chance you've bent your driveshaft?

Whole bearing kit for the rear is $150-260 on rockauto. The diff cover gasket is just a couple bucks. Call it ~~$300 for all the parts. So sounds like your guy wants standard rates, $85-100/hr. No joy.


Photography's your thing? That certainly explains your pics. Just one of my too-many hobbies, but the last time I was hot on it film was still a thing. Got a Canon AE-1 and AE-1 Program buried in the closet. All my digital cameras are pocket sized. I'm thinking to scrounge up an older D-SLR (I'm cheap about just about everything) sometime after Christmas.

 

[Atl-atl]

SO unfortunately I took the truck into my local mechanic about the vibration I was feeling in the rear, yet again, and it seems I'm due for a rear diff overhaul. At least all new bearings. Kind of a shocker that I have to deal with another big repair right after getting my whole transfer case re done, then swapped. Got quoted for about 1200 bucks which I just don't have. Wondering how long I could go before addressing it...
Also just seems like I shouldn't be needing this until at least 200k. Only got 160 on the clock right now.. at the most (reads 148k but od broke for a couple years) Anyone got any experience on the matter?

Ontop of that my steering gearbox is leaking pretty good, small leak from the rear diff currently. Transmission coolant lines leaking a bit. Seems like I got a few things to address.

You should definitely do a few things before throwing your guy $1200. Im not sure if the transfer case on GM trucks has a slip yoke or a fixed yoke on the rear output but if you can pull the rear driveshaft and drive the truck in 4wd(makeshift Fwd) try that and see if the vibration still happens. After removing the driveshaft, I taped a plastic bag around the open rear output of my t-case to keep the fluid in. Thats an easy way to isolate a front vs. rear issue or driveshaft vs. not driveshaft issue. Thats how I found out the vibration in my truck was a bad driveshaft u-joint even thought they looked fine. If you want a second or third opinion I can hook you up with some people in the Denver area. Lastly, you could easily find a matching complete rear end from a truck with less miles for WAY less than $1200 if you're willing to swap the axle yourself.

 

[Burb One]

for $1200 you can get a bolt in 14bolt rear end for that!!! Don't spend that on a simple rebuild (That also sounds incredibly high! Should be 500-800 in my opinion, including parts.

If you don't want to spend that much money, like other said rebuild it yourself! The rear ends are really easy, and like Rayra said parts- $150-200 bucks off rock auto.

Another option is off craigslist you can find a working open rear end with 100-150k on it for ~200 bucks, that'll bolt right in in less than an hour.

 

[boll_rig]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I certainly had no intention of paying that much. After some consideration I drove down to Denver to see a mutual friend who has a small shop and he took a good look over everything and we decided to just replace the U joint and see if the problem got any better. $120 bucks later I was back on the road. Said it took him about two hours to get it and install it. Not sure if 120 is a little steep.

Anyway it seems to be a little better, even though the U-joint wasn't totally shot yet.

We are going to take a look at the driveshaft balance in a couple weeks. As well as the pinion bearing job because I have certainly bottomed out a few times, once a hefty stump right on the rear diff. Certainly due for the new gasket. But he thinks he can give it a real good look through and for a hell of a lot cheaper.

The other shop definitely charges 100 hour and said about 5 hours, so just trying to beat that. Going to keep in mind that I can get the parts needed for probably cheaper than he can online.

Also considering buying a low mile rear end, like you guys said and having that put in. Just trying to weigh all the options while I have some time. Wonder if its worth looking into a 14bolt geno? You're not running one are you?

All-Atl thanks for the references. Honestly If I'm not happy with this guys then I made contact you for a shop in Denver.

Rayra, yes photography is my thing. Have been shooting with film for about 15 years although for work and side projects I do shoot a lot of digital as well. Id say dig up those old canons and shoot some film! the Dslrs are also so cheap these days.

 

[Atl-atl]

Not sure if 120 is a little steep.

All-Atl thanks for the references. Honestly If I'm not happy with this guys then I made contact you for a shop in Denver.

Send me a pm any time and I can set you up.

$120 isn't bad. It takes me a couple hours to replace both joints in my rear driveshaft so if he charged you ~$20 for the part and $50 per hour that isn't too bad compared to what a shady place like the stealership could have charged you. Dodge quoted $380 to "rebuild" my rear driveshaft once in the past. Good preventative maintenance would have been to replace both of your rear shaft u-joints considering it was already out of the truck. Driveshafts are easy to pull, might be worth your while to bring both of them to a driveline specialist and have them replace the other joints and rebalance the shafts. Nothing like peace of mind when you're out on the trail.

 

[boll_rig]

Send me a pm any time and I can set you up.

$120 isn't bad. It takes me a couple hours to replace both joints in my rear driveshaft so if he charged you ~$20 for the part and $50 per hour that isn't too bad compared to what a shady place like the stealership could have charged you. Dodge quoted $380 to "rebuild" my rear driveshaft once in the past. Good preventative maintenance would have been to replace both of your rear shaft u-joints considering it was already out of the truck. Driveshafts are easy to pull, might be worth your while to bring both of them to a driveline specialist and have them replace the other joints and rebalance the shafts. Nothing like peace of mind when you're out on the trail.

Thanks for the help Alt-Alt. I agree, definitely going to try and rebalance both and replace other joint pretty when I can get back down there with some more $$$.

Hoping to do a little day trip up above Rollinsville here in colorado this saturday. Suppose to be 70 down in the city.

 

[Burb One]

Also considering buying a low mile rear end, like you guys said and having that put in. Just trying to weigh all the options while I have some time. Wonder if its worth looking into a 14bolt geno? You're not running one are you?

I am running a 14bolt. You can find the coil sprung 6 lug 14 bolts that will bolt in place of the 10 bolt for between 800-1500 depending on your luck. I paid 1100 (seems there is a CA tax) for mine, and sold my 10 bolt for 200 bucks. Not bad and it has the G80 locker, which on the 14 bolt isn't nearly as weak as the 10 bolts. Look through or search my post history, and you can find some info, as I feel like I alsways type the same things on this topic and don't want to bore everyone Let me know if you need any help or can't find it though, always happy to help!

I wouldn't put more than 400-500 bucks into a 10 bolt, simply because it's weak and will break eventually, and the 14 bolts are literally bolt in (save for a u-joint adapter($30) and in some cases the parking brake connectors are slightly different- not a big deal to drill a hole and connect them with a bolt). They are such an easy option that you can install yourself in a few hours with some sockets, jack-stands and jack. One of or if not the best $ I have spent because I don't ever have to worry about breaking something locked in 2wd anymore with our power levels.. It is a huge piece of mind

 

[Jelorian]

I am running a 14bolt. You can find the coil sprung 6 lug 14 bolts that will bolt in place of the 10 bolt for between 800-1500 depending on your luck. I paid 1100 (seems there is a CA tax) for mine, and sold my 10 bolt for 200 bucks. Not bad and it has the G80 locker, which on the 14 bolt isn't nearly as weak as the 10 bolts. Look through or search my post history, and you can find some info, as I feel like I alsways type the same things on this topic and don't want to bore everyone Let me know if you need any help or can't find it though, always happy to help!

I wouldn't put more than 400-500 bucks into a 10 bolt, simply because it's weak and will break eventually, and the 14 bolts are literally bolt in (save for a u-joint adapter($30) and in some cases the parking brake connectors are slightly different- not a big deal to drill a hole and connect them with a bolt). They are such an easy option that you can install yourself in a few hours with some sockets, jack-stands and jack. One of or if not the best $ I have spent because I don't ever have to worry about breaking something locked in 2wd anymore with our power levels.. It is a huge piece of mind

14 bolt will probably be my next mod and then the 4L80E shortly after.

Just need to find a 14 bolt with 6 lugs and disc brakes. Does this unicorn exist?

 

[chilliwak]

Boll you should be able to find a cheap 14 bolt at the wrecker for less than half the repair cost qouted. Good luck and keep us posted. Cheers, Chilli...

 

[boll_rig]

Thanks for all the info everyone. Going to tackle this one slowly as I'm not driving a ton right now being the start of winter and all. Going to see if I cant get away with a cost effective fix for now but in the future may have to look into a 14 bolt. 800 bucks would be very worth the piece of mind like you said Geno..

 

[Burb One]

14 bolt will probably be my next mod and then the 4L80E shortly after.

Just need to find a 14 bolt with 6 lugs and disc brakes. Does this unicorn exist?

Burbone's How to find a 14 bolt for a 2000- 2006 GMT-800 1500 6 lug with coil springs

http://car-part.com/
2007
GMC Yukon XL 1500
Axle Assy Rear
(Your zipcode)
Press search
Pick one:
9-1/2" ring gear (14 bolt), 3.42 axle ratio (opt GU6)
9-1/2" ring gear (14 bolt), 4.10 ratio (opt GT5)

\yelling\ MAKE SURE TO BEFORE BUYING OR SHOWING UP TO HAVE THEM TAKE PICTURES OF BOTH THE COIL SPRING PERCH, THE BACK OF THE HOUSING CLEARLY SHOWING 14 BOLTS, AND THE 6 LUGS. DON'T BOTHER GOING TO PICK IT UP OR PAY FOR IT UNLESS YOU ARE SURE IT'S THE RIGHT ONE /yelling/. Sorry the first one I drove 40 mins to had the wrong axle listed and was a 10 bolt.

 

[Jelorian]

GRacing's How to find a 14 bolt for a 2000- 2006 GMT-800 1500 6 lug with coil springs

http://car-part.com/
2007
GMC Yukon XL 1500
Axle Assy Rear
(Your zipcode)
Press search
Pick one:
9-1/2" ring gear (14 bolt), 3.42 axle ratio (opt GU6)
9-1/2" ring gear (14 bolt), 4.10 ratio (opt GT5)

\yelling\ MAKE SURE TO BEFORE BUYING OR SHOWING UP TO HAVE THEM TAKE PICTURES OF BOTH THE COIL SPRING PERCH, THE BACK OF THE HOUSING CLEARLY SHOWING 14 BOLTS, AND THE 6 LUGS. DON'T BOTHER GOING TO PICK IT UP OR PAY FOR IT UNLESS YOU ARE SURE IT'S THE RIGHT ONE /yelling/. Sorry the first one I drove 40 mins to had the wrong axle listed and was a 10 bolt.

Thanks G!

I take it that the 2500's only come with 8 lug? The reason I ask is my Burb is a 3.73 and it looks like there was no option for it on the 1500 14 bolt. I guess it would be a good excuse to go to 4.10's in the front and then 35's!!!

 

[Burb One]

Yep, I believe the 2500's are all 8 lug.

I'm digging my 4.10's on 33's, probably will go up to 35's eventually, hard to justify with the towing and mpg's...

I rebuilt my front end and put in 4.10's when I did this as it had 200k miles on it.

However, you can find used front diff's on craiglsist or junkyards with really low mileage for these truck s with 4.10's in them for $150-200 bucks. I'd recommend that route, it really wasn't much cheaper to rebuild myself considering the gears, rebuild kit and my time.

I actually bought one, and kept the one I rebuilt as a spare lol, bought it for 50 bucks and the truck it came off of only had 50k miles!

 

[justbecause]

has anyone measured for a trooper 12 bolt? My gut says it would be too narrow but there are just so many of those things out there. 4.56 gears until 98 (with a unicorn 4.77) 4.30s 98-02 with a "modified 12 bolt" I am not sure what was modified but I'm told I'll have to swap my whole axle if I want the LSD out of my 97 under my 98. Which means i'll also be doing the front chunk as well.