2003 Suburban 1500 Pop Top Conversion

[arktrekker]

I would check with crawlertech in Denver to get a quote on a complete rebuild of the rear axle. Might consider calling them and running by so they can have a look at it. I have had axles built and rebuilt by them in the past and have never had a failure. They have always treated me fair and their prices are pretty on par with any other shop, but they tend to specialize more in axles

 

[chilliwak]

Yep, I believe the 2500's are all 8 lug.

I'm digging my 4.10's on 33's, probably will go up to 35's eventually, hard to justify with the towing and mpg's...

I rebuilt my front end and put in 4.10's when I did this as it had 200k miles on it.


However, you can find used front diff's on craiglsist or junkyards with really low mileage for these truck s with 4.10's in them for $150-200 bucks. I'd recommend that route, it really wasn't much cheaper to rebuild myself considering the gears, rebuild kit and my time.

I actually bought one, and kept the one I rebuilt as a spare lol, bought it for 50 bucks and the truck it came off of only had 50k miles!

I run 4.11s on 37 inch tires with an old school 327 cui. motor and a turbo 350 trans but I would actually want something with a more of a highway ratio...:wings:

 

[bald.eagle]

Just read this entire thread from start to finish. boll_rig, you pulled off a hell of a project! I have a Suburban also (02 4x4), mostly stock for now (2" lift and 285/75's). I even have a matching dent on the rear quarter panel, thanks to the previous owner. After seeing this executed, I won't be satisfied until my 'burban has a pop top! I had considered selling for a van, but the headroom provided by a pop top would definitely work.

I'm curious about a couple things. First off, the lifting mechanism- do you have any plans or measurements from your design, and would you do anything differently next time? How stable is the top when raised, i.e. if there were high winds? I guess the tent sides would probably pose more of a sail-factor, but I'm just curious in the overall stability of the structure while raised.

Secondly, regarding where the pop top meets the roof itself. It's a given that if you cut a giant hole in the roof, good chance some moisture will find it's way inside. Did you ever do anything more than the weatherstripping on the lower edge of the pop top? My truck will remain my daily driver, so I have to make sure the mods don't affect daily use in all weather and conditions.

I think you did an awesome job at the overall design, and hope you can take my future imitation as flattery! :friday:

 

[boll_rig]

I would check with crawlertech in Denver to get a quote on a complete rebuild of the rear axle. Might consider calling them and running by so they can have a look at it. I have had axles built and rebuilt by them in the past and have never had a failure. They have always treated me fair and their prices are pretty on par with any other shop, but they tend to specialize more in axles

Thanks for that info ark, Ill get in touch with them when the time is right!

Geno, If i were to go up to 33s eventually would you recommend the 4.10? I feel like I would definitely want that gear ratio, but wondering how the 33s would be with my stock ratio and whether its worth it.. crazy deal you picked up that 4.10 for 50 bucks ha.

Dr. Brown, Thanks for the compliments I'm glad my project has inspired you.. I don't have a ton of plans but could take measurements for the lifting mechanism. It's all pretty simple actually, uni-struts, actuators and cross hinges. In terms of stability Im not sure how well it would handle under extreme wind. here in colorado it can be vicious with the chinooks gusting to 60-80mph with ease. Honestly, in that wind I would not pop the top while camping, unless I were to actually finish out all of my stability mechanism which I never did. That was to put struts in the four corners to help the weight, vibration and movement when popped. I also have yet to finish securing the rear hinge to the roof, right now the roof just sits on it, lol. But its handled a decent share of high wind so far. Its surprisingly sturdy, I even drove around to reposition the vehicle with the top up over some rocky terrain.

In terms of moisture I haven't noticed a thing. only drove through a torrential downpour once on the way to canyon lands. When I got there an hour later and popped the top I didn't notice much water on the canvas. The beauty of it is there is no way for it to get inside the vehicle because any water that gets under the weather stripping just hits the closed, bunched canvas, but no way for it to enter the car really.

 

[Burb One]

I'm on 33's right now with 4.10 and I think it is ideal, especially with the weight we carry with all the camping/expo crap. Definitely worth it over the 3.73's in my opinion, much more pick up and go and seems to get a little better mpg than 3.73 and 33's. With 33's/ 4.10 the rpm's are a little high for flat cruising at 75 imo, but in hill/mountain freeways and off the line with everything loaded up ( and especially when I tow) it's perfect. With 35's I am worried I'll lose that get up and go and some mpg... all a trade off.

Look on craigslist, there are so many trucks with the 8.25 front end in them (probably tens of million over the years?! Someone was parting out their truck they crashed after they had bought it from the insurance company for nothing, the deals are to be had!

 

[boll_rig]

To be honest I feel like my burb is a slug right now, even with my current tires. So if I did go up to 33s i feel like I would definitely have to re-gear with 4.10.. What are you rpms like at 75? I usually go 70-80 when I'm going long distances and am worried about running too high.

And Geron (can't believe I've been saying geno this whole time ha, my bad), I'd be worried too if I were you with 35s! But they would look pretty bada$$ and you'd get over anything pretty comfortably.

 

[chilliwak]

To be honest I feel like my burb is a slug right now, even with my current tires. So if I did got up to 33s i feel like I would definitely have to re-gear with 4.10.. What are you rpms like at 75? I usually go 70-80 when I'm going long distances and am worried about running too high.

And Geron (can't believe I've been saying geno this whole time ha, my bad), I'd be worried too if I were you with 35s! But they would look pretty bada$$ and you'd get over anything pretty comfortably.

If you have an overdrive you will be fine with a 4.10 ratio. I dont have overdrive so my rpms really come up on the highway...:wings:

 

[camp4x4]

To be honest I feel like my burb is a slug right now, even with my current tires. So if I did got up to 33s i feel like I would definitely have to re-gear with 4.10.. What are you rpms like at 75? I usually go 70-80 when I'm going long distances and am worried about running too high.

And Geron (can't believe I've been saying geno this whole time ha, my bad), I'd be worried too if I were you with 35s! But they would look pretty bada$$ and you'd get over anything pretty comfortably.

Just gotta do the math to figure out what you need to match current or near current final gear ratio. Calculator here: http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartire.php

Looks like coming off 31" tires to 33" tires from a 3.73 gear ratio, 3.97 would be a perfect match (no such gears made though). So 4.10 will end up a little low, bringing the revs up a bit overall (very little). That may feel nicer since you're complaining about it being a bit dogged. 4.10 would also be a little high for 35" but would certainly work.

BTW, I moved from 33's to 35's to 37's and I have to say every step larger made me love the truck more and more. 35's are a great size overall to go with 3/4-ton axles. Not only do they go over things that much better than 31's, but they fill the wheel wells perfectly as well.

 

[Tank5]

I just found this thread, I love your build. I like the big windows in your pop top.

I just re-geared my tundra from 3.90 gears to 4.10 gears. I have always been running 33's. I do not remember the specifics but I felt like the rpms dropped on the highway and the engine was not running as hard to maintain 80 mph. I am liking the 4.10 gearing so far. I wish I could get 35's on the my rig but they will not fit with cutting the front fenders.

 

[boll_rig]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Debating doing nothing at the moment on tires as my tread is still okay for a bit. But have been looking for the elusive 4.10, 14 bolt, 6 lug, disc brake rear end with the help of Gerom. Yet to find one.

Also debating just going up to a 32 in duratrac and not re gearing just fixing the rear end.

The vibration in the rear seems to have dissipated or I have become used to it.. can't tell. Still have a small diff leak though. Wondering how long I can do nothing about it.

Truck currently covered in about a foot of snow. Went winter camping with a friend two nights ago to test the winter capabilities of the pop top. Pretty happy with how it performed. That thing just stores heat up top and holds it well. I brought my portable buddy heater and would turn it on full blast in the back for about 10 minutes and the air would rise right up to where we were sitting in the canopy and i swear it was 50 degrees in there. We also tarped from my topper to his to create a wind block.

I was most worried about getting the cold, and also wet from condensation, canvas to fold back into place. It was certainly a little harder that a hot summer day but it squished down after a few minutes. I do have some wear on the inside where it rubs on bolts and other sharp pieces I need to cover. Also need to work on some corner struts in case it snows a lot next time its popped.

Overall this thing rules in the winter, it dropped to about 15 at night, i slept in my bag without the heater on and was plenty warm.

 

[rayra]

All very interesting. You could also line the interior of the erected popup with some sort of radiant barrier or thinsulate curtains.

Maybe cap those exposed bolt ends with acorn nuts as a stop-gap / quick fix for the wear locations. Doesn't even matter if they can't replace the current nuts or cover up all the bolt threads, just get them on to cover the end threads.
Or use any kind of plastic vacuum line end cap or even wrap the ends with duct tape just to cover the sharp metal.


Just got my 'lift' settled, planning a shakedown trip to mess around in the snow in the Grapevine after this storm series passes, been shopping fees for Forest passes. And I intend to make some trips up the east side of the Sierras this year, one way or another.

 

[chilliwak]

Cool looking pics Boll1 Looks like you had fun on that trip. Trial and error is the best way to find a solution for your problems with the exposed bolts. Try a few different ways to fix it and then you will get a good idea. Cheers, Chilli..

 

[cheapthrills]

This was an awsome build, great use of uncommon "average Joe " skill set. I've been dreaming up my own similar pop up for a grand wagoneer. Yours turned out perfect. I love the ambient lighting in the pop up looks awsome. Good job.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[boll_rig]

This was an awsome build, great use of uncommon "average Joe " skill set. I've been dreaming up my own similar pop up for a grand wagoneer. Yours turned out perfect. I love the ambient lighting in the pop up looks awsome. Good job.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Thanks cheapthrills glad you enjoyed the process. certainly a learning process.

Agree Chilli trial and error is the best method for solving a problem/finding problems ha.


Ray I have been debating getting a thin reflectix type material that would go on the inside of the popup but honestly after trying it and seeing how insulated it is I might wait until I'm into colder days for longer periods of time. Could even do three front panels with reflectix around my head where i sleep in the front. Already duct taped the bolts ha but I might cut them off as they protrude about a cm beyond the nut.

Also the lift looks great!

Still working on designs for my storage drawer/bed.. had an interesting one the other day to use the pull out table as the bed extender..

 

[rayra]

There is a similar idea to that somewhere in that huge stuck topic in Storage. The gent had a top deck that extended out into sleeping length. The pieces fit together like a comb, 3 slats on the sliding piece, 2 on the fixed piece. And that way when slid out it made a sort of slatted surface.
You could do something more simple just make the bench top double thick, maybe with that C-channel idea, except that's on top. Then you get the height you want on the extended portion.
Or use a 3" wide slat at front and back edge, a tongue and groove joint(s), with a narrower sliding extension trapped between them. That would need to be hardwood for more strength in the T&G and I still wouldn't put a great deal of weight on it.

Another trick on the exposed bolt threads, I saw it done once long ago at some horse stables, the proprietor (handyman?) was rubbing a hard wax candle over the thread ends. Not sure if you was trying to keep the livestock from getting cut up, or just trying to keep the old fence post bolts from rusting. But it might 'grease' those exposed ends so the material slides by easier. But the duct tape is doing the same thing anyway.