2003 Tundra AC, Finally posting a thread!

AaronK

Explorer
Yes, headlight housings are designed for the bulb output they are spec'd for. There will be some negative consequences (for oncoming drivers) with the LED bulbs in a factory housing. From all the examples I've seen the output is better than a drop-in HID but still not perfect. IMO, retrofits are still the ultimate way to go, but I do see the cost savings and simplicity as a large benefit for people who want more output.
Absolutely. My line of thinking was with HID it is what it is, you can't really engineer the output of the bulb. With LED, you can arrange the array of emitters in the "bulb" somewhat to more closely mimic halogen emission patterns.
Makes sense in my head but I could be completely off too.
This is something I'm interested in though as the halogen output is pretty dismal

Sent from my OnePlus One using Tapatalk.
 

Climbermac

Observer
Well the truck did outstandingly well on this last trip. The new lighting upgrades were awesome and the trip as a whole was great...right up to the last day.

I have some pics of the wheeling and some pose shots etc that I will post once I pull them off of my nice camera but I thought I'd start with the less than good news.

I've joined the ball-joint to spindle bolt failure club and dropped my front end into the pavement. My rig did manage to limp me all the way into town and onto a nice stretch of level blacktop before it gave out but it was like an elephant sat on my driver side bumper! I much prefer the spot the truck chose to where it could have failed over the previous week, particularly Black Bear pass gazing a few thousand feet down to Telluride. Judging by the pieces I found I think I had one bolt vibrate out, then another vibrate loose and shear, then the last two (inner pair) must have also loosened and failed together.

The tow truck driver that the sheriff roused out of bed set me up in front of his shop on a jackstand with a floor jack and a handful of bolts, saying I could keep it there and wrench until Monday morning. I worked two of the bolt remnants out and got it so she could sit on all four tires but the coilover was the most concerning hit (it took a fair bend) and I didn't want to try to drive on it. I managed to find a friend with a rig he trailered out who was willing to trailer me back home on his way east. We made it back Sunday afternoon and yesterday I got everything torn down. So far the damage report is:

Driver Fender is toast as well as the fender flare
Inner fender skirting is crunched and torn
CV shredded both boots
Inner axle seal is toast
Coilover is quite tweaked (shaft to body bend, bent shaft or valve failure or ...?)
Pride is notably dented

I've already gotten the spindle cleaned up broken off bolts removed and the threads are chased and fine. My plan is to replace the bolts on both sides with new Toyota with blue loctite and tourque seal to keep a visual indication of any loosening up. I can swap in my NIB spare CV and re-boot the damaged unit to keep as a new trail-spare. I'm going to ditch the flares all around and get creative with some bedliner. I also may take the downtime to get into tubbing the front. I will be down for a week or two waiting on the coilovers to come back and a new fender so it may prove a good time to get some cutting done!









 

rickashay

Explorer
Wow!!! Glad ok and it wasn't on the trail.

You will have to give us some stats on those LBJs.
- were they OEM?
- how many miles did you have on the pair? How many years?
- how many miles/years since lifting the truck?
- were the lower bolts loctite in place? What color loctite if any?

From my days over on the 3rd gen 4runner forum, those questions seemed to pop up the most in relation to this failure. Interested to hear your exact circumstance.

I've got two years and approx 40,000kms on mine and I'm already thinking it's time to order another set.

Addison
 

Climbermac

Observer
The stats are the really crazy part.

The LBJ's were brand new. Before the trip I found I had trashed my LCA bushings so in putting in the new units I decided to also drop in new LBJ's. So they had less than 1k on them. They are Mevotech Supreme and the LBJ's are still in perfect shape. The hardware that they came with on the other hand unfortunately was junk so we reused the 145k OEM. What we didn't do was clean/chase threads or use any loctite and I really think this was our big error. The new LBJ's and the LCA's are the Mevo Supreme's and that with the newly built steering rack from Rack Doctor the front end feels better and responds better than it ever has. I loved how it wheeled. I could feel the steering better than with either of my previous racks. I also found that the new LCA's move so much better than the old ones that I now have so much travel that I need to work more clearance into the front wells. The rig made some of the turns on Black Bear pass tighter than the 100 series LC I was tailing.

I'm with you on wondering about # of miles are on some of these components but I am going to treat this as a new addition to my pre-trail checks. I always used tourque seal and loctite on the knuckle studs on my 40 and my 80 so I guess I need to do the same with these.

YMMV
 

rickashay

Explorer
The stats are the really crazy part.

The LBJ's were brand new. Before the trip I found I had trashed my LCA bushings so in putting in the new units I decided to also drop in new LBJ's. So they had less than 1k on them. They are Mevotech Supreme and the LBJ's are still in perfect shape. The hardware that they came with on the other hand unfortunately was junk so we reused the 145k OEM. What we didn't do was clean/chase threads or use any loctite and I really think this was our big error. The new LBJ's and the LCA's are the Mevo Supreme's and that with the newly built steering rack from Rack Doctor the front end feels better and responds better than it ever has. I loved how it wheeled. I could feel the steering better than with either of my previous racks. I also found that the new LCA's move so much better than the old ones that I now have so much travel that I need to work more clearance into the front wells. The rig made some of the turns on Black Bear pass tighter than the 100 series LC I was tailing.

I'm with you on wondering about # of miles are on some of these components but I am going to treat this as a new addition to my pre-trail checks. I always used tourque seal and loctite on the knuckle studs on my 40 and my 80 so I guess I need to do the same with these.

YMMV

Wow crazy. I ordered new hardware when I did mine on the Tundra after seeing these bolt failures on the 4Runners too. I think for the extra $$$ it's just added safety that your not putting in a part that has XXXX miles of fatigue. Total bummer though.

I hope the truck comes out ok and you get it all together soon. I may be bugging you for more info on the steering rack soon. +1 for new LCA's it does seem like everything moves more freely! And in the meantime, looks like you'll have to show us pics of your 40!
 

seanpistol

Explorer
I feel like I've posted it a dozen times and it's glanced over or determined to be insignificant, but red loctite and 60 ft lbs on those 4 bolts. Every. Single. Time. No exception.
 

seanpistol

Explorer
There is no issue if they are properly installed. To anyone that wants to avoid this with a first gen Tundra- RED LOCTITE AND 60 FT LBS. When you remove the bolts, clean the old loctite off with a wire wheel. No need for new bolts unless there is visible damage. They don't shear when properly installed, they shear because a bolt or two will rattle out, then the remaining will rattle halfway out and shear from being torqued on laterally, usually when turning.
 

Climbermac

Observer
I completely agree that this isn't anything to be paranoid about. Knuckle studs on LC's are known for a very similar issue. They get overlooked and not properly installed or re-installed and they fail. Another point that Sean makes is one I see overlooked as well. I've seen a lot of bolts with loctite smeared over dirty threads. I typically chase the threads with a tap, wire brush the bolt and then apply loctite. This failure has really just made me realize that I need to stop getting lazy and having one or two trusted shops do some of my work and just do all this kind of work myself. I know the shops and they are good guys but I put this rig in too many places where my life and my families lives are at risk. A few little things I found tearing the front end down just gave me notable pause. I've broken rigs on a wide range of trails and in lots of ways but when I start taking things apart I don't like finding surprises....like the mismatched caliper bolts I found!
 

seanpistol

Explorer
That's a good mentality. If you do it yourself you know it's done right, although it may be more time consuming and not always convenient. It's not rocket appliances (anyone get this reference? :D). 3 of my 4 bolts failed after my truck was in an accident and my insurance company had a Toyota dealer rebuild it. The "tech" at Toyota installed a new LCA and LBJ, and clearly didn't properly torque the bolts or use Loctite. I got off the highway in Kansas after doing 90 mph and heard a snap when I bumped the curb pulling into a Denny's. I crawled under and found that two rattled out and one sheared, leaving one bolt holding the LBJ to the LCA. I was lucky there was a hardware store across the street with metric bolts and I didn't have that failure 10 minutes earlier. The only time anyone besides myself has done a lick of maintenance on my truck.
 

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