wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Edited my original post with some details.
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2006 DC Tundra. DD meets ongoing tinkering.
- Thread starter wrenchMonkey_
- Start date
Edited my original post with some details.
thanks! ill be honest i dont do as much research on the tundra stuff as i do for my crawler and other vehicles. appreicate the help!
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4x4Warthog
New member
Great work! thanks for sharing
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
So, spent the morning putting in my Wilwood Engineering Proportioning Valve. PN # 260-12627. That's the M10x1 Bubble Flare version. They also make a 3/8-24 for Double Inverted flares, but I wanted to keep it all Metric.
Make sure you have a good brake flaring kit. The bar and clamp style flaring kits are junk IMO. I much prefer something like the Cal Van 165, Inline Flaring kit. Its $60, but does all sizes and Double Inverted and Bubble Flares. Its also a much better design for tight spaces. Made short work of making my new line from ABS Module to valve and cutting and re-flaring my stock line heading to the rear.
I fabbed up a quick bracket for the valve out of some 1" Aluminum, bent it, gave it a brushed finish, and used some Hex bolts to mount it up. Plugged up the T underneath the MC with a tapered M10x1 plug.
In the rear, I ripped the valve out and just bent the supply line towards the rear for the axle soft line. I was going to use a 90 or a union and cut the two lines and attach em, but the less connections the better. Some day I might run a new line from under the drivers seat, where it hits the 90, and run a new line back and change out the soft line for a extended SS line.
I'll test and adjust the settings and try and find something I am happy with. I drove around today with it full closed (more rear brakes) and fully open (less rear brakes) and could defiantly notice a difference. Once it snows and I can test the ABS thoroughly, I'll finalize a setting, bleed it all around once more and call it a day. I'll see how much I can get away with before the rear end starts to want to swing around.
Ready for 35's.
Make sure you have a good brake flaring kit. The bar and clamp style flaring kits are junk IMO. I much prefer something like the Cal Van 165, Inline Flaring kit. Its $60, but does all sizes and Double Inverted and Bubble Flares. Its also a much better design for tight spaces. Made short work of making my new line from ABS Module to valve and cutting and re-flaring my stock line heading to the rear.
I fabbed up a quick bracket for the valve out of some 1" Aluminum, bent it, gave it a brushed finish, and used some Hex bolts to mount it up. Plugged up the T underneath the MC with a tapered M10x1 plug.
In the rear, I ripped the valve out and just bent the supply line towards the rear for the axle soft line. I was going to use a 90 or a union and cut the two lines and attach em, but the less connections the better. Some day I might run a new line from under the drivers seat, where it hits the 90, and run a new line back and change out the soft line for a extended SS line.
I'll test and adjust the settings and try and find something I am happy with. I drove around today with it full closed (more rear brakes) and fully open (less rear brakes) and could defiantly notice a difference. Once it snows and I can test the ABS thoroughly, I'll finalize a setting, bleed it all around once more and call it a day. I'll see how much I can get away with before the rear end starts to want to swing around.
Ready for 35's.
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toyotech
Expedition Leader
Nice work. My 360 armor was mainly for the bad drivers on the streets. The build looks great. I keep going back and forth on doing the rear brake mod like you. It isn't really needed if you constantly adjust the rear brakes. The self adjusters are crap and never work imo. I adjust it on my runner and it makes a huge difference. I just need to keep up on the adjustments on the tundra.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Sometimes I like doing things for the sake of doing things
Thanks. Ya I gotta check my rear drums and after I get some ABS time on snow I'll re-bleed and should be good to go.
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
So a guy I messaged a while back on Kijiji got back to me today about a Warn XD9000 he had.
Went and took a look at it today after work. Not being able to get it working inf ront of the guy helped with the price, so I took a chance and left with it for $180, which I was happy with.
Its in pretty solid shape overall. I'd say this is early 90's from the SN< but I'll confirm with Warn soon.
I wanted the cable off as I don't plan on using it and in order to disassemble it, I needed to take it off. I also wanted to see if this thing even had a working motor. I knew going in I could swap it for a 9.5XP for a few hundred, but was hoping not. Few minutes later with a battery and some jumper cables and all was well. Spun hard and sounded great.
Motor in in great shape. That bearing on the housing cover looks brand new....
Then I ripped the rest appart. Planetary gear sets are in great shape. I'll soak them with simple green and then re-lube it up. I've got the cases ready and I'll take them to work and sand blast them and the re-paint them.
Now, the control box was a joke. The wiring was shot, the remote pin outs are using 1/2 terminal connectors on 1/4 studs, random gauge wiring, it was pretty bad.
The solenoids were replaced at some point. These look like either Ford / Tractor solenoids. A common replacement for this and the 8274. To bad they are all toast. Not a big deal, I was prepared for that. I was going to replace all 4 @ $25 a pop, but I am thinking I'll go with some more modern technology and put in a Contactor, such as the Superwinch Replacement Solenoids 90-14452. Pretty slick. That will also make it easy to wire in a remote, be it a 5 pin ( stock is 3) or a in-cab.
So anyways, parts will be ordered tomorrow. Still reading and deciding on replacing my 100ft of 5/16 with 100 ft of 5/16 synthetic of 75' of 3/8. Different companies say different things.
Anyways, I have a new project.
Also, rims shipped today . Should have em in a week and a half.
Went and took a look at it today after work. Not being able to get it working inf ront of the guy helped with the price, so I took a chance and left with it for $180, which I was happy with.
Its in pretty solid shape overall. I'd say this is early 90's from the SN< but I'll confirm with Warn soon.
I wanted the cable off as I don't plan on using it and in order to disassemble it, I needed to take it off. I also wanted to see if this thing even had a working motor. I knew going in I could swap it for a 9.5XP for a few hundred, but was hoping not. Few minutes later with a battery and some jumper cables and all was well. Spun hard and sounded great.
Motor in in great shape. That bearing on the housing cover looks brand new....
Then I ripped the rest appart. Planetary gear sets are in great shape. I'll soak them with simple green and then re-lube it up. I've got the cases ready and I'll take them to work and sand blast them and the re-paint them.
Now, the control box was a joke. The wiring was shot, the remote pin outs are using 1/2 terminal connectors on 1/4 studs, random gauge wiring, it was pretty bad.
The solenoids were replaced at some point. These look like either Ford / Tractor solenoids. A common replacement for this and the 8274. To bad they are all toast. Not a big deal, I was prepared for that. I was going to replace all 4 @ $25 a pop, but I am thinking I'll go with some more modern technology and put in a Contactor, such as the Superwinch Replacement Solenoids 90-14452. Pretty slick. That will also make it easy to wire in a remote, be it a 5 pin ( stock is 3) or a in-cab.
So anyways, parts will be ordered tomorrow. Still reading and deciding on replacing my 100ft of 5/16 with 100 ft of 5/16 synthetic of 75' of 3/8. Different companies say different things.
Anyways, I have a new project.
Also, rims shipped today . Should have em in a week and a half.
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wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Ordered 80ft of 3/8 synthetic winch line. Still need to decide on a hawse and hook.
My solenoid replacement contactor from Superwinch is on back order with Summit Racing till middle of December. Not a big deal, I've got a 35' tub job, front bumper and winch incab switch to work on for now.
Heater is on the garage and the parts are drying. Painted up my winch.
Snapped F1 lug on the motor when I was cleaning the threads. Gonna go pick up a new 3/8-24x1.5 copper or brass hex bolt to replace it with. Probably just replace both F1 and F2 while I am at it.
My solenoid replacement contactor from Superwinch is on back order with Summit Racing till middle of December. Not a big deal, I've got a 35' tub job, front bumper and winch incab switch to work on for now.
Heater is on the garage and the parts are drying. Painted up my winch.
Snapped F1 lug on the motor when I was cleaning the threads. Gonna go pick up a new 3/8-24x1.5 copper or brass hex bolt to replace it with. Probably just replace both F1 and F2 while I am at it.
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Well, I start holidays today. Off until January 5th. Time to start working on the project list.
Winch is fully rebuilt and painted. Waiting on the new synthetic rope and hawse.
UPS dropped the ball hard, but, should have all 5 of my SCS 17x9 F5's mounted and balanced by the weekend. Currently have 3.
Tub job is happening tomorrow. Have a bunch of friends coming over to help out.
After the tub is completed, I'll go straight into building the new front bumper.
Odyssey was kind enough to send me two PC1200' batteries for my dual battery system. So, $400 worth of Blue Sea stuff is on its way to help set all that up. (ML-ACR to control battery charging and 250A MaxiBus for grounding. I'll have to re-do a bunch of the OEM Alt and Grounding Cables while I am at it, so I'll replace most of it with 2GA while I am in there. Also a 100 AMP Thermal Breaker, 6 Circuit w/ Negative Bus fuse block for accessories and a 500 AMP switch to control my winch. Bunch of electrical work ahead and fabing up a battery tray.
Also, next year, Ill be out of the country for 6 months, so, following in tradition of Sean Pistol, I might go LT.
Winch is fully rebuilt and painted. Waiting on the new synthetic rope and hawse.
UPS dropped the ball hard, but, should have all 5 of my SCS 17x9 F5's mounted and balanced by the weekend. Currently have 3.
Tub job is happening tomorrow. Have a bunch of friends coming over to help out.
After the tub is completed, I'll go straight into building the new front bumper.
Odyssey was kind enough to send me two PC1200' batteries for my dual battery system. So, $400 worth of Blue Sea stuff is on its way to help set all that up. (ML-ACR to control battery charging and 250A MaxiBus for grounding. I'll have to re-do a bunch of the OEM Alt and Grounding Cables while I am at it, so I'll replace most of it with 2GA while I am in there. Also a 100 AMP Thermal Breaker, 6 Circuit w/ Negative Bus fuse block for accessories and a 500 AMP switch to control my winch. Bunch of electrical work ahead and fabing up a battery tray.
Also, next year, Ill be out of the country for 6 months, so, following in tradition of Sean Pistol, I might go LT.
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rickashay
Explorer
Damn. Lots on the to-do list! Sounds great though, excited to see where this goes. Did you get a set of the low offset 17" F5's before they sold out?
KTempleton
Observer
Pumped to see winch paint. I was debating doing mine. Figured I let you have at it first.
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Yes, its going to be a busy time, but busy is good. I'll have to get out and do some snow wheeling just to have some fun.
I did. I wanted bronze, but e-mail tag got the best of me and ended up with black. Ended up getting 5 of the F5 in 17x9 -38.
I was gonna wait till I had the line on, but, since you asked, heres a picture. It turned out fantastic and I am very happy. Compared to the before pictures, it looks like a brand new winch, and really, it is. All new gaskets, grease, new hardware ect.
The Engage, Free Spool and XD9000 sticker kit is $40. Not worth it. I got the Warn sticker from my local 4x4 shop for free. I'll make a stencil up for the clutch lever positions and then paint it on. Your not gonna see it anyways.
The colors are Tremclad Anodized Bronze for the body and Semi-Gloss Black for the drum and aluminum heatsink on the motor.
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