2006 DC Tundra. DD meets ongoing tinkering.
- Thread starter wrenchMonkey_
- Start date
spazstic
Lives for the weekend
I tried two different aftermarket kits. Not sure of the brands, but they looked a lot like the SPC kit. One of them had smaller than OEM cam washers. The other had bolts that were way too long for one, and too short for the other (yes, I tried swapping them, ha). I didn't like the cheap plastic sleeves, and unlike the OEM hardware where the sleeve runs all the way through the frame brackets, the sleeve would get pinched in between the brackets. It seemed like it needed to be another 1/4" longer.
Currently on my truck, one side is OEM and one side is aftermarket. I've had trouble holding my alignment on the side with the aftermarket bolts. I actually painted alignment marks on them and have to get under there and realign it after any moderate to hard wheeling.... Which seems to be every other week. I bought new OEM bolts and plan on swapping them out this weekend.
How so? The OEM bolts are sleeved. It's the sleeve that seizes most of the time, not the bolt. There's also no way they're stronger than stock. They are ground down half the length of the bolt to fit the slotted washers. The OEM hardware uses a solid bolt through a sleeve.
In my opinion, the OEM setup is the best out there. Toyota just needed to grease the sleeve and the bolt prior to installation, and this wouldn't be an issue.
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
They OEMS seized because the sleeve and bolts were two dissimilar metals. They had no coating on them. They eventually rust and bond together even in ideal conditions. Coating the inside and outsides of the bolt and Steve with anti sieze is the common fix.
The SPC have a plastic sleeve which rectified this issue.
You can argue which is stronger all day. The OEMS are a hex bolt through a sleeve but is a smaller bolt, to fit through the sleeve. The SPC use a much bigger bolt since it does not have to fit through the metal adjustment sleeve like on the OEM
The SPC have a plastic sleeve which rectified this issue.
You can argue which is stronger all day. The OEMS are a hex bolt through a sleeve but is a smaller bolt, to fit through the sleeve. The SPC use a much bigger bolt since it does not have to fit through the metal adjustment sleeve like on the OEM
tyv12
Adventurer
I have knocked the Psc out of alignment but the only comparison I had was rusted out oem... obviously they don't move when they're rusted solid. I've though about having some sort of set secret or way to bolt the cAm tabs solid once I get the alignment died in
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wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
I'll probably use two small tack welds to do that, however, perhaps the 04-15 Tacoma cam tab gussets from Total Chaos can be made to work? Also, when I remove the LCA, perhaps re-enforcing the OEM tabs with a small bead on the back will accomplish the same thing.
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spazstic
Lives for the weekend
I installed the cam tab gussets on a buddies Taco. They're different and won't work on the Tundra. Also, it's kind of a pain to remove the the old brackets and get the new ones lined up just right.
Laying a small bead on the back of the OEM tabs is a good idea. I was planning on doing that when I pull my LCAs next time. Comparing the Taco tabs with the Tundra, I think the Tundra was made stronger and that's why it isn't really an issue on our trucks.
Yeah i just did this for a customer..it was a pain the int rear end to get them lined up.
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Doing some maintenance today. Installing my MOOG LCAs.
To fix my torn bushings on my Mevotechs. Lasted about 40,000KM.
Also, while I was at it, I decided I'd take a look at my MOOG LBJs. They have about 50,000KM on them.
Bit of scoring on on side, but overall they are pretty tight and I see no issues with them. Still, I'll replace them with some OEM's just because I have them out. The other side looks more or less the same, maybe a bit worse.
Also, welded up the OEM cam tabs. Should help with flattening them.
To fix my torn bushings on my Mevotechs. Lasted about 40,000KM.
Also, while I was at it, I decided I'd take a look at my MOOG LBJs. They have about 50,000KM on them.
Bit of scoring on on side, but overall they are pretty tight and I see no issues with them. Still, I'll replace them with some OEM's just because I have them out. The other side looks more or less the same, maybe a bit worse.
Also, welded up the OEM cam tabs. Should help with flattening them.
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wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Got the new OEM LBJ's installed along with the MOOG LCA's. Aligned decently and drives great, so I am happy about that.
Got a e mail off to a local shop for some new SS brake lines for the front. I am gonna go to a once piece line removing the hard line and going with a bajo bolt. Don't want my new fancy coilvers smashing my hard lines like they did the last guy.
Got a e mail off to a local shop for some new SS brake lines for the front. I am gonna go to a once piece line removing the hard line and going with a bajo bolt. Don't want my new fancy coilvers smashing my hard lines like they did the last guy.
seanpistol
Explorer
I am pretty sure the biggest reason the coilovers hit my brake line is because I couldn't get enough caster out of my alignment due to seized alignment cams. That, and I was running the caliper that the port is facing a direction to put things and harms way. I swapped the calipers and I'm fixing the rest when I swap the front end, going with the SPC cam bolts and I'm curious to see how tack welding your cam tab goes. Sounds like a good option.
toyotech
Expedition Leader
Has nothing to do with alignment. The hard line is fixed with the spindle no matter what the caster is.
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seanpistol
Explorer
True, but with the wheels further forward in the wheel well and the top mount of the coilover in the same place, it changes the angle and looks as though it would have improved how the coilover compressed towards the brake fitting.
Regardless, switching from the 13WG to the 13WL and going to the banjo fitting got things out of the way. Addison never had an issue with his hard brake lines and the same coilovers. I'm not sure why. Could be because his truck came with the larger calipers, the same as wrenchmonkey, and there is something slightly different in the swap that isn't obvious.
Could be the case with the larger calliper. When I put the camburgs on that I got from you on my 02 the hard lines would not have worked.