seanpistol
Explorer
Yep. You also have more horsepower than me and an extra gear in the transmission.
2006 DC Tundra. DD meets ongoing tinkering.
- Thread starter wrenchMonkey_
- Start date
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
2 years and 4 months later, less than 25,000KM and the bushings on my Mevotech LCAs are completely toast. Torn and split in half. The amount of play is unreal. That would explain why I've been having issues getting the truck aligned properly and now have a full degree more camber then my last alignment 3 weeks ago.
Lets see how my warranty claim goes, my money is on the tech who installed these (I was away at the time) torqued them down when the vehicle was up on the rack in the wheels at full droop....
Its a 5 year, 100,000KM warranty, so I'll see how this goes. They say you can get replacements or a refund, and I'd prefer the latter. I've never liked these things from the get go. I'll either get MOOGs or go LT.
Lets see how my warranty claim goes, my money is on the tech who installed these (I was away at the time) torqued them down when the vehicle was up on the rack in the wheels at full droop....
Its a 5 year, 100,000KM warranty, so I'll see how this goes. They say you can get replacements or a refund, and I'd prefer the latter. I've never liked these things from the get go. I'll either get MOOGs or go LT.
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spazstic
Lives for the weekend
For regear, I recommend the 4.88s. After talking with Sean and Yotamasters, I settled on 4.88. It's not really a direct math problem of setting the ratios back to stock. You have a lot more inertia in the larger tires to overcome. With the 5 speed we have, I see about 2500 rpm at 70mph on the highway. Typical driving (80mph+) with a mix of wheeling gets me around 15mpg. I haven't done better than that, but I also haven't tried. If I drove the speed limit and didn't have a 2000' elevation change going to/from home, I could probably get the 17mpg Sean does.
I never feel like the truck is geared too high, nor do I feel like the truck is geared too low. It's perfect on the street and on the road. I also used a Yellow Box to calibrate the speedo back to a correct reading.
I replaced my LCA bushings with these poly bushings and they've held up well. Several thousand off road miles and no issues so far. Still tight.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003EP2UL0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bumper looks good. I'm not a fan of the stinger so I wouldn't personally go that way. I think a small hoop across the front in between the lights looks best. I put a couple of the cheap LED pods in the corners, angled slightly outward, for side lighting, and a 20" single row bar in the top center. It provides plenty of light out the front and sides but without being too much. You can still look to the sides or back and not have to wait for your eyes to adjust to see. You can see it in the picture I posted a few pages back.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY3YLCI/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item
I never feel like the truck is geared too high, nor do I feel like the truck is geared too low. It's perfect on the street and on the road. I also used a Yellow Box to calibrate the speedo back to a correct reading.
I replaced my LCA bushings with these poly bushings and they've held up well. Several thousand off road miles and no issues so far. Still tight.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003EP2UL0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bumper looks good. I'm not a fan of the stinger so I wouldn't personally go that way. I think a small hoop across the front in between the lights looks best. I put a couple of the cheap LED pods in the corners, angled slightly outward, for side lighting, and a 20" single row bar in the top center. It provides plenty of light out the front and sides but without being too much. You can still look to the sides or back and not have to wait for your eyes to adjust to see. You can see it in the picture I posted a few pages back.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY3YLCI/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item
toyotech
Expedition Leader
Yellow box only fixes the speedo. The ecu gets its speed reading before the yellow box.
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spazstic
Lives for the weekend
Which is what I said... I used it to calibrate the speedo back to a correct reading. I tapped in to the line behind the instrument cluster.
However, you can splice the yellow box in at the speed sensor on the trans. When you do this, the ecu gets the correct speed as well. Whether or not this affects your shift points and performance is up for debate.
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Well, the company I got them from is going to honor the Mevotech warranty, and, let me order Moog parts instead, and they will price match as close as they can to RockAuto. So lets see how this all works out when they call me back.
toyotech
Expedition Leader
toyotech
Expedition Leader
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Why the hate for MOOGS?
Between inner and outter TREs, UBJ and LBJ on my Tundra and many other parts on other vehicles, I have never had any issues with MOOG.
Do you have experience or issues with the MOOG LCA'S for the Tundra?
Two other guys on Tundra Solutions recently posted about the crappy bushings and alignment issues with the Mevotechs.
Between inner and outter TREs, UBJ and LBJ on my Tundra and many other parts on other vehicles, I have never had any issues with MOOG.
Do you have experience or issues with the MOOG LCA'S for the Tundra?
Two other guys on Tundra Solutions recently posted about the crappy bushings and alignment issues with the Mevotechs.
theBullfrog125
Adventurer
I'd immediately burn out the rubber bushings and pop in some Polyurethane bushings. I too had alignment issues from rubber bushings but not any more with poly.
Only positive to rubber is some types of poly bushings can Crack from extreme temperatures. Or at least so I've heard. But ALL aftermarket upper arms have poly bushings or heims. So it doesn't seem like thats really an issue for most people.
Only positive to rubber is some types of poly bushings can Crack from extreme temperatures. Or at least so I've heard. But ALL aftermarket upper arms have poly bushings or heims. So it doesn't seem like thats really an issue for most people.
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
The Daystar bushing don't get great reviews on Amazon and it does reach -30C here.
I can't get a refund on my Mevotechs and getting into the MOOGS cost me $91 to upgrade. I'll see how they work out and if they don't, maybe I'll look at the Polys.
At the end of the day, new rubber is better than old cracked and torn rubber.
I can't get a refund on my Mevotechs and getting into the MOOGS cost me $91 to upgrade. I'll see how they work out and if they don't, maybe I'll look at the Polys.
At the end of the day, new rubber is better than old cracked and torn rubber.
toyotech
Expedition Leader
A lot of people on a tundra fb page had early failures with moog LBJ like less than a month and they failed early. So yeah I stay away from aftermarket for certain parts that don't need replacing for a long. I'd stick with Toyota factory parts
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KTempleton
Observer
What he said... like literally a failure per day.
Scary ****
Scary ****
spazstic
Lives for the weekend
The bad reviews put me off at first too. But I think it's because the installation is pretty involved. It took me a whole day to replace them. Most people on Amazon aren't mechanically inclined... It doesn't get very cold here in Southern CA, but I don't see that being a big issue.
Also, if you haven't had the LCAs off in a while, I'd recommend picking up some new alignment bolts. I had to use a sawzall and cut two of the four off because they were seized in there. This is pretty common.
Eat the cost and buy them from Toyota, the aftermarket ones suck. They're about $45 per bolt/sleeve/nut. If you don't use them, you can return them. And GREASE THEM when you reinstall.
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
That's what originally started this. Years ago when I got my 5100s and went to get an alignment my cam bolts were seized. So the LCA'S were cut out and replaced with Mevotechs, also replaced all my cam hardware with OEM stuff. After that, my alignment specs were just junk. Could never get it aligned properly. Looking back, I'd of cut them out and replaced the bushings and put the new hardware in, but that didnt happen.
Recently, I threw in the SPC cam bolt kit and got zero change which was super strange at the time, but now with the bushings the way they are, makes sense.
So hopefully with the new LCA and bushings and SPC bolt kit, I'll be able to dial in my alignment.
Why do you say the aftermarket cam bolts suck? Can you explain your negative experience with them?
Recently, I threw in the SPC cam bolt kit and got zero change which was super strange at the time, but now with the bushings the way they are, makes sense.
So hopefully with the new LCA and bushings and SPC bolt kit, I'll be able to dial in my alignment.
Why do you say the aftermarket cam bolts suck? Can you explain your negative experience with them?