2006 DC Tundra. DD meets ongoing tinkering.

[smokeysevin]

With 10s and longer travel rear Springs you will have to angle them quite a bit which makes the *** end flow about unless you get them valved real stiff. Even then its digressive valving due to the motion . I ran a wilwood single in single out on my truck just on the rear line as it leaves the master cylinder. I cant comment on how it works with drums but on my truck with a 4 runner dual diaphragm Booster, 1 ton 1" t100 master you really need it. I am running lt1 camaro calipers out back and it used to lock them up bad unless it was cranked down.

Sean

 

[AaronK]

Good info on those valves. This has been a project I've been wanting to tackle for a while. Thought I'd have to scab something together.

Sent from my OnePlus One using Tapatalk.

 

[tyv12]

I did the proportioning valve delete and wow what a differeence it uses the rear brake alot more and reduces the squishy pedal feel. Tested it a few weeks ago on snow and drastically reduced the problem with low speed abs cycling on ice. I love it wouldnt go back

 

[wrenchMonkey_]

With 10s and longer travel rear Springs you will have to angle them quite a bit which makes the *** end flow about unless you get them valved real stiff. Even then its digressive valving due to the motion . I ran a wilwood single in single out on my truck just on the rear line as it leaves the master cylinder. I cant comment on how it works with drums but on my truck with a 4 runner dual diaphragm Booster, 1 ton 1" t100 master you really need it. I am running lt1 camaro calipers out back and it used to lock them up bad unless it was cranked down.

I checked the OEM's, they are about 65*, which puts them around 78% effective. Rick A Shay put in a Fox 2x10 which measures 26.160 ext and 16.050 col. Someone else tried to put the same shocks in a DC, and was going to bottom out the shocks in a heat beat. Either AC/DC differences or something else. Lots of variations come into play with leaf springs, bumps stops, ect.

Now for the King's, 2.5x10 measure out at 18.375" collapsed and 28.375" extended and 2.0x10 measure out to 17.050" col and 27.050" ext. Respectively 1 and 2 inches longer than what Rick A Shay put in.
Now, I am pretty sure that Addison did that before he put in his Deaver leaf pack and did the SFK. I also know hes running Timbren Active Off Road Bumps now, so I'd be interested to see how its measuring out at the moment.

As for the length of the smoothies, I am not overly worried. I can and plan to relocated the axle mounts lower about 1 inch, and I can raise the upper mounts about 1 or 2 inches, maybe even 3, depending on how far back I go.
I need to iron out a few things first before I commit to shocks and to see if there is even a point.

One, my leaf spring setup. I want to get a custom Deaver pack done, or maybe try a local company.
Two, I need to get the SFK installed and on.
Three, I need to sort out my bump stops, which, are currently non existent. I am thinking of going with the Timbren Active Off Road coupled with a U Bolt Flip, but I need to get some info on there size ect. From my understanding, they sit .5-1.5 inches away from bump are cushion the axle through compression, instead of a hard hit. My other option, would be to cut the factory bump stop mount off, and weld in some King Air Bumps with a Mounting Can, that way I can fine tune them for distance to bump out my rear end before the shock bottoms out. Lots to think about.

Good info on those valves. This has been a project I've been wanting to tackle for a while. Thought I'd have to scab something together.

No prob. Happy to help.

I did the proportioning valve delete and wow what a difference it uses the rear brake alot more and reduces the squishy pedal feel. Tested it a few weeks ago on snow and drastically reduced the problem with low speed abs cycling on ice. I love it wouldn't go back

Which one did you do, singles in/out or single in dual out? Did you cap the T under the brake booster? Any pictures?

 

[seanpistol]

I did the proportioning valve delete and wow what a differeence it uses the rear brake alot more and reduces the squishy pedal feel. Tested it a few weeks ago on snow and drastically reduced the problem with low speed abs cycling on ice. I love it wouldnt go back

That's interesting.

I finally put an LSPV relocation bracket on the axle to get it up about 3" and could feel a noticeable improvement in braking by using the rear brakes a lot more.

 

[smokeysevin]

Sean

 

[tyv12]

I have some pics in my build thread

 

[wrenchMonkey_]

I have some pics in my build thread

Sweet, thanks! I took a look, dropped you a line in your thread.

So today coming out of the grocery store, watched some guy in his Pathfinder pull up next to me, slam his door open and smoke my sliders. He seemed a bit confused as to why it didn't hit my door and stopped early. He looked at the 2in DOM shaped dent on his lower door frame and started to get pissed. About that time I got closer to my truck and said " You know, you should really be more careful when you open your door" He took a second glace at my sliders, a look at his dented door and then left. It was awesome.

Highlight of the day for sure.

 

[theBullfrog125]

Haha that's great. Sliders ******!

 

[toyick]

Sweet, thanks! I took a look, dropped you a line in your thread.

So today coming out of the grocery store, watched some guy in his Pathfinder pull up next to me, slam his door open and smoke my sliders. He seemed a bit confused as to why it didn't hit my door and stopped early. He looked at the 2in DOM shaped dent on his lower door frame and started to get pissed. About that time I got closer to my truck and said " You know, you should really be more careful when you open your door" He took a second glace at my sliders, a look at his dented door and then left. It was awesome.

Highlight of the day for sure.

Ill be honest the likely hood of using sliders on my tundra at this point in time in my life is practically nill....i have a full on linked crawler for that stuff....the only reason i want to build them is for this exact reason!!! people in the bay area on the whole, care absolutely nothing about other peoples property...so to put DOM tubing between my door and their doors, seems appropriate!
I would have laughed pretty hard, had i seen that happen...

 

[rickashay]

Sweet, thanks! I took a look, dropped you a line in your thread.

So today coming out of the grocery store, watched some guy in his Pathfinder pull up next to me, slam his door open and smoke my sliders. He seemed a bit confused as to why it didn't hit my door and stopped early. He looked at the 2in DOM shaped dent on his lower door frame and started to get pissed. About that time I got closer to my truck and said " You know, you should really be more careful when you open your door" He took a second glace at my sliders, a look at his dented door and then left. It was awesome.

Highlight of the day for sure.

Hahah yes! I had the exact same thing happen one time in the Safeway parking lot when I had my 4Runner. Same outcome. I was smiling and they were pissed.

Hahaha love it.

 

[wrenchMonkey_]

Picked up a new tool for the shop, a 30T press.
Also, picked up some 3/8 ID tubing, hose clamps and my overpriced $15 Toyota union to do my rear diff breather mod.

Gonna need to either pick up a new MIG gun to use for sheet metal or hope for the best with the gun I have. Currently have .035 wire in the 252, which wont work that great for the tub mod. Gonna either pick up a spare gun with a .023 liner, or, probably what I'll try first is just get new rollers and some wire and see how well it works. Pushing .023 wire 15ft in a .035 liner might pose issues.

 

[wrenchMonkey_]

Snow is finally starting to stick on the ground, so I put the winter shoes on.
Also, spent 30 minutes installing and routing my rear diff breather mod.

 

[wrenchMonkey_]

Spent 30 minutes and did the TPMS mod to get rid of my dash light.

In a nut shell;

1) Remove two screws from below the glove box.
2) Remove the 3 screws at the top of the glove box opening. Remove the connector attached to the glove box light.
3) Slide the HVAC vent to the left, then pop it out of the right side.
4) TPMS module is up inside the left. Black box about 4in by 4 in.
5) Remove the 10MM bolt holding the blue relay unit (seen in my picture) and move it out of the way. This gives your more working room.
6) Remove the 10MM bolt holding the TPMS module so you can swing the TPMS module down and towards you to get some working room. Bracket is located below the TPMS unit, just behind the other bolt you undid.
7) Unplug the TPMS sensor. Its on the back side as youd be looking looking at it, or the 9 oclock if you were sitting in the drivers seat.
8) Slide the wire loom down and locate the pink/grey wire. There is a pink/grey wire with a black stripe, make sure you don't pick that one.
9) Cut the pink/grey wire about 1in from the white connector. Tape the end off going into the white connector. Nothing else is done with this.
10) On the main harness side of the cut, strip the ends, and using either spade, butt or whatever method you want, connect a piece of wire and ground it to the nearest screw.
11) Heatshrink, tape or whatever you wish to secure and seal your connections
12) At this point, test your work. Plug the harness back into the TPMS module and start the vehicle. No TPMS light should be present. If it comes on, you probably either A) cut the wrong wire B) Grounded the wrong side of your cut.
12) Once you verified everything is good to go, replace the 10MM bolt holding the TPMS module.
13) Put the blue relay unit back in place and replace the 10MM bolt holding it in.
14) Put the HVAC vent back in
15) Put the glove box back together and enjoy not having your TPMS dash light on.

Some discussion here.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/foru...disabling-tire-pressure-sensor-system-tundra/

 

[toyick]

Spent 30 minutes and did the TPMS mod to get rid of my dash light.

link? i hate that light!