UltraHDGames
Adventurer
Thank you sir
2006 Mazda B2300 Build Thread
- Thread starter UltraHDGames
- Start date
Thank you sir
UltraHDGames
Adventurer
Ordered a Hurculiner kit so I can do my box, redo my rockers and around the fenders, bed rails, on top of the tailgate and maybe the inside of my bumpers.
Also FINALLY getting a new axle on Saturday! 8.8 31 Spline, lsd with 4:10s from an Fx4 level 2! He's also giving me the U bolts and oem 2.5" blocks. My original plan was to get Explorer leafs instead of blocks but oh well, the aal already stiffen up the back enough and I do enjoy some ride quality. My shocks should be able to take the extra length(Bilstein 5100 - 24-185509) and I'll finally have some rake back which will be great when I get a roof basket and some day a spare tire carrier
Also FINALLY getting a new axle on Saturday! 8.8 31 Spline, lsd with 4:10s from an Fx4 level 2! He's also giving me the U bolts and oem 2.5" blocks. My original plan was to get Explorer leafs instead of blocks but oh well, the aal already stiffen up the back enough and I do enjoy some ride quality. My shocks should be able to take the extra length(Bilstein 5100 - 24-185509) and I'll finally have some rake back which will be great when I get a roof basket and some day a spare tire carrier
UltraHDGames
Adventurer
Alright I'll take a look into new u bolts, better to be safe then sorry! Also strongly considering this - http://www.cbioffroadfab.com/products/jeep-jk-bumpers/fold-down-tire-carrier-premium-model/
Seems like a good unit that still allows me to use my shackle hitch or tow my trailer. Anyone use one on here?
Seems like a good unit that still allows me to use my shackle hitch or tow my trailer. Anyone use one on here?
UltraHDGames
Adventurer
How does a spare tire carrier that sits behind the tailgate and cap effect wind resistance? Plus my oem spot can barely fit a 31, not to mention how difficult it would be to get at it if I slashed a tire in a mud put etc
thethePete
Explorer
My only reservation about something like that vs getting a bumper fabbed with a swing out would be a substantial loss in departure angle with that sticking out of your receiver....
I do agree about moving the spare from the stock location though. Do you have room to strap it or bolt it somewhere in your bed? I forget what you've got going on in there...
Truck looks good.
FYI, the only difference between the Black Magics and the regular 500s is the black anti-scatter ring they put in there, it reflects within the housing with the light off making it appear dark but it's the same reflector and lens. My buddy had a pair and I had a pair of regular 500s, the light output was marginally better from the regular 500s but not enough so to negate the cool looks of the Black Magics.
The FF is a combo-beam, so it's got a spot portion that throws light way far down, and a flood portion that floods out. People mis-perceive that as hotspotting but it's an intentional design of the beam pattern, and I found my set-up of 2 500 driving and 2 FFs to be ideal for max coverage for minimum dollar 500s give a wide, even driving beam, the ffs help flood out the foreground and pitch a pencil beam *way* downrange to give you some serious distance on the straights. 4 Black Magics ain't a bad way to go though
I prefer staying away from HIDs because I use my lights on rural highways to suppliment my high-beams, I don't like waiting for HIDs to heat back up, and cycling them is hard on the bulbs. Other people here feel differently.
Truck is looking solid. Solid find on the FX4 axle. Makes the swap a lot easier. But as others said, do not use your old u-bolts. They're cheap to get bent up at a spring shop usually $50-100 (expensive to buy from the dealer @$50/ea). You're also going to want to retorque them several times over the course of a week or so. I suggest taking the opportunity to bump up to 9/16" ubolts as they're much stronger and shouldn't cost much more at the spring shop. Ask them what they recommend torquing them to (probably about 80-90lb/ft) and like I said, they stretch, you'll wanna retorque a few times. Just keep retorquing until you can't get any more turns on them. Check them every few days.
You're gonna love having the LSD back there though. Throw some fresh fluid in it and don't forget the friction modifier, you'll be impressed with what it can do for a stock LS. It will serve you more than well enough until you can afford to put whatever "real locker" you want back there. A little 2-foot action with the brake will help it engage harder at low speeds and essentially make it run like a spool. They're really a pretty bombproof diff. I've worked on several that had over 200,000km on them and still worked quite well and looked clean inside. If it's a disk brake axle too you're really in luck. The disks in the rear make such a difference in braking attitude and performance. No nose-dive and way more stopping power.
Billys are a good choice, but just as an fyi, the ProComp ProRunner shocks are supposed to be pretty much a clone of the 5100 and they're $100/ea. I got a set for a Chev 1500 (I'll check the PN later), they bolt in and fit at max compression, but have way more droop than stock. I pull 10" in the back limited by the driveshaft and then the rear spring shackle. Plus the valving for the heavier truck rides a lot smoother, especially with a loaded bed.
Supposedly the SportTrac springs sit a bit taller than the Expo leaves do, but they do both give you a lift. Skyjacker Softride springs are another option. The 4" ones will give you a slight lift and allow you to ditch the block. Plus they ride awesome, though I needed an add-a-leaf in my pack to hold everything I carry.
I do agree about moving the spare from the stock location though. Do you have room to strap it or bolt it somewhere in your bed? I forget what you've got going on in there...
Truck looks good.
FYI, the only difference between the Black Magics and the regular 500s is the black anti-scatter ring they put in there, it reflects within the housing with the light off making it appear dark but it's the same reflector and lens. My buddy had a pair and I had a pair of regular 500s, the light output was marginally better from the regular 500s but not enough so to negate the cool looks of the Black Magics.
The FF is a combo-beam, so it's got a spot portion that throws light way far down, and a flood portion that floods out. People mis-perceive that as hotspotting but it's an intentional design of the beam pattern, and I found my set-up of 2 500 driving and 2 FFs to be ideal for max coverage for minimum dollar 500s give a wide, even driving beam, the ffs help flood out the foreground and pitch a pencil beam *way* downrange to give you some serious distance on the straights. 4 Black Magics ain't a bad way to go though
I prefer staying away from HIDs because I use my lights on rural highways to suppliment my high-beams, I don't like waiting for HIDs to heat back up, and cycling them is hard on the bulbs. Other people here feel differently.Truck is looking solid. Solid find on the FX4 axle. Makes the swap a lot easier. But as others said, do not use your old u-bolts. They're cheap to get bent up at a spring shop usually $50-100 (expensive to buy from the dealer @$50/ea). You're also going to want to retorque them several times over the course of a week or so. I suggest taking the opportunity to bump up to 9/16" ubolts as they're much stronger and shouldn't cost much more at the spring shop. Ask them what they recommend torquing them to (probably about 80-90lb/ft) and like I said, they stretch, you'll wanna retorque a few times. Just keep retorquing until you can't get any more turns on them. Check them every few days.
You're gonna love having the LSD back there though. Throw some fresh fluid in it and don't forget the friction modifier, you'll be impressed with what it can do for a stock LS. It will serve you more than well enough until you can afford to put whatever "real locker" you want back there. A little 2-foot action with the brake will help it engage harder at low speeds and essentially make it run like a spool. They're really a pretty bombproof diff. I've worked on several that had over 200,000km on them and still worked quite well and looked clean inside. If it's a disk brake axle too you're really in luck. The disks in the rear make such a difference in braking attitude and performance. No nose-dive and way more stopping power.
Billys are a good choice, but just as an fyi, the ProComp ProRunner shocks are supposed to be pretty much a clone of the 5100 and they're $100/ea. I got a set for a Chev 1500 (I'll check the PN later), they bolt in and fit at max compression, but have way more droop than stock. I pull 10" in the back limited by the driveshaft and then the rear spring shackle. Plus the valving for the heavier truck rides a lot smoother, especially with a loaded bed.
Supposedly the SportTrac springs sit a bit taller than the Expo leaves do, but they do both give you a lift. Skyjacker Softride springs are another option. The 4" ones will give you a slight lift and allow you to ditch the block. Plus they ride awesome, though I needed an add-a-leaf in my pack to hold everything I carry.
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thethePete
Explorer
Factory spec is 75-140 SYNTHETIC w/ Friction modifier. What you said is exactly the opposite. You need the friction modifier because synthetic oil is too slippery and the clutch packs won't work right. *shrug* Do what you want though. I know what I put in customer vehicles and my own.
Buddha.
Finally in expo white.
It's my understanding that the friction modifyer makes it slip more. The guys who drag thier mustangs and dont mind shortened life of the clutch packs dont add the modifier or they add less.
This is one example of gear oil that doesent require the modifyier.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/royalpurple-maxgear-75w140-gearoil.html
I assume the Ford spec gear oil does not have the modifier in it or isnt slippery enough. I was under the impression that the modifier was uneeded with all sythetic gear lube. This I could very well be wrong about.
This is one example of gear oil that doesent require the modifyier.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/royalpurple-maxgear-75w140-gearoil.html
I assume the Ford spec gear oil does not have the modifier in it or isnt slippery enough. I was under the impression that the modifier was uneeded with all sythetic gear lube. This I could very well be wrong about.
UltraHDGames
Adventurer
The fx4 level 2 axle is a torsen gear limited slip not a clutch pack style and only 2010-11 Rangers came with disk brakes but these drums are bigger then my current so its something. On Friday after work I'll be getting new u bolts for this(might be a few weeks before it gets installed anyways). Also on Friday me and my buddy are going to start making a blueprint of a custom tire carrier, from what we talked about it will mount to my hitch(offset of the reciever, love that look anyway of the tire to the side of a suv). Of course it'll have a hinge to fold down out of the way to open my tailgate etc. I'm not to worried about effecting my departure angles etc from this either, we'll keep it fairly close to the bumper/hitch and I have a lot of lift(2" Shackles, pro comp aal and soon to be 2.5 blocks)
Hoping for something similar to this
Hoping for something similar to this
thethePete
Explorer
My bad, I had a brain fart and was thinking the FX4 axles had the non-torsen LSD. I wanted to double check before posting but InFord was down all morning. Carry on.
But yes, the Ford 75-140 synthetic requires the friction modifier in 99% of the Ford LSD diffs.
UltraHDGames
Adventurer
From my understanding normal fx4 are clutch ones but the level 2 have torsen style
Also talked to the guy selling the axle and I'm getting the front and gas tank skid plates, the front will 9/10 need some modifying since the t bar models have a different frame with a front crossmember but still it'll be worth it