2007 LR3 - my 10 yr build thread...

[Victory_Overland]

Yeah I spoke to GAP about it. They say do the config change for the parking, shut it down after it accepts and pull #36 5amp fuse under the glove box. YES, that works great, no beeping and no light! But......NOPE.....that #36 controls the TPMS as well and since those babies are Bluetooth so they always search and find good sensors. Unless you disconnect the module or remove the sensors, technically you can't change the configuration as they always look for each other as show fault. You'll get a TPMS fail mode all day long. I put it back toghether and I'm pushing the button like you again.

I want to keep TPMS but not sure if airing down with bigger tires will show flashed on the TPMS.

When I figure it out, I'll let you know. Sorry for the off topic question.

 

[Jwestpro]

Ive aired down to 30 from over 50 and it was all fine after getting them back up to 52 again.

I actually removed the rear tpms harness from the plug near left rear lamp so now it's a simple higher pitch beep that goes off with dash button. Fronts are still as they don't cause issues or the IIDtool turned them off. I have no idea !

 

[Gunnslinger]

Thanks for sharing the details of your modifications. It is a fantastic LR. My next project is to remove my bumpers, sliders and accessories and clean up the rust. I love the auxiliary fuel tank.

 

[Victory_Overland]

yeah I have the high ***** beep as well because my front and rear harnesses are not installed at all. I capped off the plugs and tied them up.

On another note, I'm digging your rack ladder. Custom built?

 

[Jwestpro]

yeah I have the high ***** beep as well because my front and rear harnesses are not installed at all. I capped off the plugs and tied them up.

On another note, I'm digging your rack ladder. Custom built?

That ladder is from the rack maker Hannibal.

 

[Jwestpro]

Thanks for sharing the details of your modifications. It is a fantastic LR. My next project is to remove my bumpers, sliders and accessories and clean up the rust. I love the auxiliary fuel tank.

You may want to look into a product called Boeshield. There are three things, one to clean up rusty stuff, another to "convert/stop" rust, and when all that's done including as much physical removal as you can muster, a final coating product. These were developed by Boeing.

There's also Waxoyl but it's best to be done after a full restoration or on a new vehicle.

 

[Victory_Overland]

It is a fantastic LR. My next project is to remove my bumpers, sliders and accessories and clean up the rust.

On JWestPro's notes, I live in Hawaii where the salt air is as thick as can be and unavoidable. I spray the under carriage off weekly with a freshwater rinse and use WD40 can under the truck about every other month or so. With the exception of my headers, the underbody is looking really good considering it's been over here for almost 5 years. Stay away from the exhaust obviosly, but this is poor man's rust prevention and works great with keeping a salt and moisture prevention layer on the underbody. It also keeps mud from caking on and comes right off with regular hose jet spray. Fog the inside of your frame rails, cross members, etc......

 

[Gunnslinger]

Thanks for the corrosion advice gentlemen.

Jwestpro; I am looking forward to a review of the auxiliary fuel tank installation if it is your intention to write a review.

 

[Jwestpro]

Thanks for the corrosion advice gentlemen.

Jwestpro; I am looking forward to a review of the auxiliary fuel tank installation if it is your intention to write a review.

Re: fuel tank. I wasn't involved aside from paying and saying where I wanted the pump switch. I think it was fairly straight forward considering it was designed for ROW vehicles which means things don't always line up just right for our NAS spec vehicles. It causes a code for evap leak all the time but I just check and clear it. Mainly that happens when the tank is drawn down. Someone else put in two tandem pumps because it's so slow. However, I also like the failure redundancy so I had considered doing that sometime but it's so easy to access I just carry a new pump in the cargo area. I could literally swap it out in about 15 minutes with two vise grip (hose stoppers) a screw driver socket for the two fuel hose clamps, and reconnect the power.

 

[Jwestpro]

Today visited the North American ARB location which is nice to have nearby! Retrieved my other ARB fridge and chatted a bit about supplying the lockers from my current ARB compressor location which has 'just' enough space for the 2 solenoid.




Last night found a few feet of snow which also means crazy clay mud. It's amazing how well a not so wise tire fits in the fender liner when not using a spacer keeping it close in. These are 11.5 section and right at 9" wide tread but 34" tall. I have markings for the fender liner adjusting to be done but it's almost done. It can actually roll in flat ground in access mode -20mm extra with only one spot catching. I expected much worse but if these were like 295 or 305, it would be nearly impossible to not have severe fender liner destruction and massive frame rubbing against the main boxed section between wheel and engine bay.

 

[Jwestpro]

Hmmm....

 

[Victory_Overland]

I like it. Put a set on the front too? Looks good IMO. I might steel the idea.

I'd like to see an istall write up on the flaps if you are down? I think many people might like that option.

Are those the big fat 275 tires?

 

[Jwestpro]

No so Phat but 285/70-18 measuring exactly 34" & 9" tread width to be accurate.



Just barely but clear with room for crud.

 

[Victory_Overland]

Damn that's a tight fit. And those tires are only 9" wide? I'm getting nervous about my set up then if that's how tight it's gonna be. Lol

Can you air down without touching sidewall?

 

[Jwestpro]

Be aware it's s 9" tread, not section which is a lot wider as per specs.

As for less inflated,.. it's less tight then but also this is taken at tightest condition which is when strut is 100% fully extended and also with no weight on the tire - a fairly rare occasion.