2008 GMC Yukon Denali Off-road build advice

[gm61]

Hey Guys,

This is my first post. It's about time to get my wife a new car. She loves her 2008 GMC Yukon Denali XL and has finally agreed it's time to let it go.

I would like to turn it into a very capable off-road vehicle but still keep it's great driving ability for highway trips. I need some advice on the build.

The current rear live axle (3.42 gear ratio) has Stabilitrak. Is this good for off roading or should I put a locker or Torsen Type differential on in it's place?

Should I add a Torsen type LSD to the front IFS?

Can the existing rear live axle or front IFS handle 33" to 35" tires?

What suspension up-grades would you do?

I will not attempt rock crawling (very much the wrong vehicle) but will be on some rougher roads where a wheel will be off the ground sometimes.

Thanks for your help!

Geoff

 

[ThundahBeagle]

Sounds like a super nice ride!

I've seen older (GMT400) GMC Suburbans (yes, the GMC Yukon XL used to be called the Suburban just as the Chevy is) used as Overlanding vehicles. Nice desert mountain trails. They can be capable and comfy.

One thing to note here is that the Denali is All Wheel Drive all the time. That's not necessarily a bad thing, just need to note that it isnt something you can select in and out of like other Yukons and Tahoes


The 2008 would be the GMT900, which in many ways is similar to the K2's. I'm not sure if the Denali had started magnetic ride that far back but you may want to check the specifics of that years Denali suspension. It's always the Denali and now the High Country Chevys that are done up more like the Cadillac SUV's, with a curve ball sure to come.

 

[blackdmax15]

Hey GM61 I was thinking about inheriting my wife’s 2014 Yukon XL Denali so started to work up a build sheet. I think up to 35s you would probably be fine as it is the GMT900 running gear and there are a ton of those 1500 Sierras running around with them. As with anything hard wheeling may find weak points but overlanding would probably be fine if you exercise caution. I do believe Icon has a front lift kit that will work. For the rear I think you have to delete the air ride features (well both front and rear as front is a coil over). There are some 4” and 7” lift options but I like the idea of replacing as minimal items as necessary. Some of the better lift/leveling kits are no longer produced specifically for the Denali (again I believe due to air ride). Suncore Has a coil spring conversion which I think allows more leveling kits to be used. I have not gone down this road myself as I decided to just buy a diesel gladiator and be poor.

https://suncoreindustries.com/product/21896/air-to-complete-strut-shock-conversion-kit-2007-2014-cadillac-chevy-gmc-lwb

ICON 2007-2016 GM 1500 1-3

ICON 2007-2016 GM 1500 1-3

www.iconvehicledynamics.com

 

[mrpeterclark]

Hey, I’ve done one! It took a ton of stubbornness as there was Not a ton of aftermarket stuff for these. There’s few curveballs with these, but it’s doable.
Here is my setup.
2007 GMC Yukon XL Denali
Roof Rack - baselineoverland.com
Front Bumper - Chassis Unlimited baselineoverland.com
Warn EVO 12S w/ Factor 55 flat link
Icon 2.5 Coilovers at 2.5" lift front (71505)
Icon 2.0 rear shocks (76526)
Cognito Upper Control Arms (or others)
Dobinson 2" lift rear springs (C09-045)
(You can also just use a 2” puck)
Air Lift helper bags (you need 60912 or 60913 for Dobinson springs)
SDE magneride and autoride delete shockdeletes.com
Redarc Tow Pro Elite trailer brake controller.
33" Goodyear Ultraterrain tires on Vision Turbine wheels (20"). (Currently for sale in the Boulder, CO area)

I’m going to 17s and 35s I think a re-gear will be necessary as I tow and go up to high elevations which really robs power already. Not super noticeable with 33s. From what I’ve seen 35s require the NorCal mod at the back of the inner front fender and trimming the front bumper cover or doing the border patrol cut or a bumper like mine. I’ve heard they still rub at full lock. Rear doesn’t need too much but may still rub. For what it’s worth I’m going to do 315/70/17 which is just a hair smaller diameter and about an inch skinnier than a 35/12.50
I think all of this generation Denalis had the g80 locker and 10 bolt rear which I personally don’t mind. I may go to a Detroit Truetrac when I re-gear
Heavier tires are definitely going to be harder on things
pros: 6.2. 10 bolt rear and g80. Six speed transmission. Comfortable.
AWD is a mixed bag for me. The traction control on the road, snow and ice sand etc is great. No thinking. No waiting. No forgetting to disengage a locker or 4wd if my kids are driving.
Cons: single speed transfer case. (There were also bunch of the 4WDs made with just single speed). 4L something I would use a fair amount if I had it, but most of the time it’s fine. Occasionally it plain sucks and has gotten me in a real bind not having 4Low. I would love to be able to put it in 2h on the Highway (Robs probably 1+mpg) or put it in true 4wd at times. I’ve been on a deep dive to see if I can do a tcase swap on this when the time comes.

suspension maxx makes a spacer lift kit for these that comes with some sensor relocation brackets if you want to keep the autoride air shocks and magneride. I ran that for about a year. It basically rides like stock. I’ve liked the icons a lot. Fox and King also have a similar product.

 

[ratled]

Lots of good info over here for you GMT 900

 

[gm61]

Hi Guys,

I posted the original thread.

A local shop suggested I do this suspension kit. What do you think?

2007-13 4WD Escalade, Denali, Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon 1500 Autoride 4

This 3.5-4

www.rockymountainsusp.com

They also suggest 33" tires and a winch Cradle setup.

I am new at this. What do you think.

Thanks,

Geoff

 

[mrpeterclark]

Hi Guys,

I posted the original thread.

A local shop suggested I do this suspension kit. What do you think?

2007-13 4WD Escalade, Denali, Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon 1500 Autoride 4

This 3.5-4

www.rockymountainsusp.com

They also suggest 33" tires and a winch Cradle setup.

I am new at this. What do you think.

Thanks,

Geoff

I liked the idea of a lower lift as it's already a big vehicle. I didn't want to get too top heavy. And I didn't have to drop the front dif. I deleted the autoride and did air bags and Dobinson springs. I think the Denali springs will sag if you take out the autoride air shocks. You can fit 35s with a little trimming to the back of the front fenders (google norcal mod). you'll need to trim the front bumper cover and fender liner or get a bumper like mine. The rear should clear ok. You'll probably need a zero offset wheel.

 

[ThundahBeagle]

33's would probably do you just fine. They are tall and you dont have to trim or even think of re-gearing.

 

[Martinjmpr]

33's would probably do you just fine. They are tall and you dont have to trim or even think of re-gearing.

I ran 33's on my 2004 (GMT800) Suburban and they did fine. Took me everywhere I needed to go. I did a simple key lift up front and put Z71 springs in the back to give me maybe an inch or so of "lift" and it worked fine.

The other nice thing about 33's (mine were 285/75/16s on the stock "cyclone" wheels) is that they are much less expensive than 35's.

I'm currently running 33's on my F-150 as well (275/70/18's) I think 33" is a good size for something that has to be a daily driver/pavement cruiser but also needs to go off road.

 

[Overlandtowater]

33’s on my burb has taken me down trails where people wouldn’t believe in the ozarks but I did blow out the front diff and trashed the g80 rear locker.