2009 Chevy Medium Duty 4x4 Kodiak Ambulance conversion

[Jambulance80]

Wow, This looks great. Its been a slow roll for me. Too many little project getting in the way. Every time I get one done, 3 others pop up as a result. Tedious stuff.
I ended up pulling my Hoseline out all together. Have a stack of stuff if anyone is interested. Interested in what you find out to do with the compressor under the hood

 

[Mattersnots]

Wow, This looks great. Its been a slow roll for me. Too many little project getting in the way. Every time I get one done, 3 others pop up as a result. Tedious stuff.
I ended up pulling my Hoseline out all together. Have a stack of stuff if anyone is interested. Interested in what you find out to do with the compressor under the hood

I'm still leaning towards ripping the hoseline out entirely. However, if I do decide to keep it, do you have a 12v compressor? What made you decide to remove yours?

I know what you mean on the little time consumers. I had to stop work on the wiring of batteries, inverter, controller, because I decided to go with switchable circuit breakers instead of fuses. While I wait for the breakers to get here I'll just tidy up some details in the electric compartment. A full day later and I'm just now ready to install the new parts. I always think these details will take minutes but it's almost always hours instead. On the other hand, I like how you start tinkering with one part and within a short amount of time you are surprised that 3 hours have gone by.

 

[Jambulance80]

I'm still leaning towards ripping the hoseline out entirely. However, if I do decide to keep it, do you have a 12v compressor? What made you decide to remove yours?

I know what you mean on the little time consumers. I had to stop work on the wiring of batteries, inverter, controller, because I decided to go with switchable circuit breakers instead of fuses. While I wait for the breakers to get here I'll just tidy up some details in the electric compartment. A full day later and I'm just now ready to install the new parts. I always think these details will take minutes but it's almost always hours instead. On the other hand, I like how you start tinkering with one part and within a short amount of time you are surprised that 3 hours have gone by.

I pulled the hoseline out because the previous owner installed a coleman slim line HVAC unit on the roof. It runs off 120 so I can plug in and power it up from shore power or run the generator and use it. Either way, its a 15000 btu system and more than enough for my needs. If I do end up needing some additional heat, I'll add a propex or similar diesel heater or tap into my propane system and run a small space heater.

I had to move some air components around (air suspension tanks and air horn) after mounting the ASME propane tank in their place. Several days later I'm trying to find fittings and hose to reconnect everything. In the mean time, i cut out the middle storage compartment (box#2) and gave me some additional interior room. Still playing a bit with final design and layout ideas but I've got time to do it right and ideas are not in short supply.

I have the entire 12v hoseline system if your interested. I also removed the LED light bar, and 2 of the swivel jump seats. May keep one but have another that is in great shape. built in seat belt also up for sale. also ditched all of the LED emergency lights like yours that I will be selling off. Going to fill in the gaps similar to what you have done. I have an aluminum spool gun just waiting to get used. I'm in N. Virginia if your interested in the hoseline stuff. would like to get rid of it all together if possible

 

[Mattersnots]

I pulled the hoseline out because the previous owner installed a coleman slim line HVAC unit on the roof. It runs off 120 so I can plug in and power it up from shore power or run the generator and use it. Either way, its a 15000 btu system and more than enough for my needs. If I do end up needing some additional heat, I'll add a propex or similar diesel heater or tap into my propane system and run a small space heater.

I had to move some air components around (air suspension tanks and air horn) after mounting the ASME propane tank in their place. Several days later I'm trying to find fittings and hose to reconnect everything. In the mean time, i cut out the middle storage compartment (box#2) and gave me some additional interior room. Still playing a bit with final design and layout ideas but I've got time to do it right and ideas are not in short supply.

I have the entire 12v hoseline system if your interested. I also removed the LED light bar, and 2 of the swivel jump seats. May keep one but have another that is in great shape. built in seat belt also up for sale. also ditched all of the LED emergency lights like yours that I will be selling off. Going to fill in the gaps similar to what you have done. I have an aluminum spool gun just waiting to get used. I'm in N. Virginia if your interested in the hoseline stuff. would like to get rid of it all together if possible

I've decided to rip out the hoseline. The a/c system gets vacuumed out today so I can start working on the hoses. Thanks for the offer on the hoseline parts but I guess I'm jumping into the same boat as you and a lot of folks. How to get rid of the spare parts. I also have an attendants seat with a swivel and belt that has been advertised on craigslist and ebay for a month now. If anyone reading this needs it and it hasn't sold they can have it for free. It's a shame that many of these parts don't get recycled. I hope I don't end up taking my hoseline system to the dump. On the bright side I've sold over 1000 in other parts on ebay so far.

 

[Mattersnots]

I'm not sure I got a picture of my water tanks on here yet. Hope this isn't a double post. I have two tanks, on the left is a 24 gallon and the right is a 46. A total of 76 gallons if you add the 6 in the water heater. Although it doesn't look it here, they are the same height so should drain evenly. It was a good feeling to get that right side wall covered in insulation and closed up. Baby steps.


Here's another random shot. Having never used an induction cooktop before it made sense to test it out. I've been preparing many a meal in the shop. Two thumbs up for the cooktop. It really suits me and my cooking style. It heats up fast, cooks even, uses very little electricity, and cools down just as fast. I've been using the kilowatt meter while cooking. Making a stir fry only used 140 watts of power and heating up a pan of soup was 40 watts.



You'd think I was sponsored by DeWalt tools. They always seem to sneak into my pictures.

 

[Mattersnots]

And now for some real progress. I picked up my solar panels recently. 4 of these babies should move some electrons.



What amazes me about this build is the cost of the supporting hardware. These panels were just over 1200 dollars. The brackets, screws, paint, wiring, vhb tape, circuit breakers, etc cost another $500.



The screws and brackets in the sun, or basically a kiln here in AZ.



Measuring, marking, cutting. We also put in a 24 x 24 inch Bomar hatch and a maxxair deluxe fan. My friend Mike is still here and we are on the fast track to get most of the outside done. Trying to get it finished so I can work inside with a/c when the real heat comes.



The hatch will be right above the bed. This is something I've always wanted. How great will it be to see the stars at night. It's also an escape hatch and easy access to the roof. There's so much light inside now that if I give up on this project it could always be used as a greenhouse.



I couldn't find a decent way to get the wires through the roof. We ended up making this. Good design by Mike Moore.



Almost there, just one to go.



And the finished product. By the way, these roofs are no where near flat. There is a crown built in both longitudinally and laterally. We had to float about half of the brackets to make sure they all contacted the roof.

 

[Brewdiak]

wow tom you're rocking on this thing! so many ideas i wish i had thought of - ie the moveable head! i built a room for mine but it's really wasted space most of the time, oh well maybe someday i'll redo it but i have to finish it first

i was considering the hatch to the roof too but all my other ideas were taking too damn long and i had to start cutting out additional projects so didn't ... i already regret not doing it but at least in theory i can add one later now that i know where the supports/wires etc are in the ceiling.. i wanted the ability to go up top and chill out up there with a nice view - had even thought of having some sort of removable stanchion(right word?) like on a sailboat to keep me from falling off if chose to enjoy some adult beverages up there

anyway emailed you the list of what it took to remove the hoseline but since you're the 2nd one to ask i figured i'd post it here too for future searches in case my truck falls on me and i'm no longer around - keep going dude! by the way, tire guy suggested i get 295 75/22.5.... 41's ... yikes gotta measure and see what amount i have to trim but they'd sure fill up the front wheel well nicely!!!

lines to completely remove the rear hvac option (my truck had the factory provision for rear ac/heat): these were the listing title/pn's from ebay for the parts.

2003-2009 Topkick/Kodiak C4500 Heater Hose Outlet Black Rubber 10380979 15058977
2004-2009 GMC Topkick Chevy Kodiak Heater Hose Inlet Hose 2 Clamps New 15088703
A/C Manifold Seal Kit Front ACDelco GM Original Equipment 15-31101 GM 02724966
GM 52474373 A/C Condenser, Evaporator Seal( 232565922227 )
GM OEM A/C Condenser, Compressor Lines-Ac Line O-ring 52474373
ACDelco 15937811 A/C Hose
GM 15798658 Genuine OEM C4500 C5500 A/C Compressor and Evaporator Condenser Hose

it wasn't hard but take a look at the diagrams on some of the websites and you'll see which lines you're replacing (wholesalegmparts has good diagrams - look under GMC Topkick though, they dont list chevy kodiaks)

 

[Coachgeo]

how many watts total did you put up there?

 

[pennersm]

how many watts total did you put up there?

Looks Like 1300w.

What type of solar controller are you going with for all that beautiful sun power?

 

[Mattersnots]

wow tom you're rocking on this thing! so many ideas i wish i had thought of - ie the moveable head! i built a room for mine but it's really wasted space most of the time, oh well maybe someday i'll redo it but i have to finish it first

i was considering the hatch to the roof too but all my other ideas were taking too damn long and i had to start cutting out additional projects so didn't ... i already regret not doing it but at least in theory i can add one later now that i know where the supports/wires etc are in the ceiling.. i wanted the ability to go up top and chill out up there with a nice view - had even thought of having some sort of removable stanchion(right word?) like on a sailboat to keep me from falling off if chose to enjoy some adult beverages up there

anyway emailed you the list of what it took to remove the hoseline but since you're the 2nd one to ask i figured i'd post it here too for future searches in case my truck falls on me and i'm no longer around - keep going dude! by the way, tire guy suggested i get 295 75/22.5.... 41's ... yikes gotta measure and see what amount i have to trim but they'd sure fill up the front wheel well nicely!!!

lines to completely remove the rear hvac option (my truck had the factory provision for rear ac/heat): these were the listing title/pn's from ebay for the parts.

2003-2009 Topkick/Kodiak C4500 Heater Hose Outlet Black Rubber 10380979 15058977
2004-2009 GMC Topkick Chevy Kodiak Heater Hose Inlet Hose 2 Clamps New 15088703
A/C Manifold Seal Kit Front ACDelco GM Original Equipment 15-31101 GM 02724966
GM 52474373 A/C Condenser, Evaporator Seal( 232565922227 )
GM OEM A/C Condenser, Compressor Lines-Ac Line O-ring 52474373
ACDelco 15937811 A/C Hose
GM 15798658 Genuine OEM C4500 C5500 A/C Compressor and Evaporator Condenser Hose

it wasn't hard but take a look at the diagrams on some of the websites and you'll see which lines you're replacing (wholesalegmparts has good diagrams - look under GMC Topkick though, they dont list chevy kodiaks)

Thanks cowpig. I've already got the system vacuumed out and some of the hoses removed. I'll need to find and replace the original hose that had the pressure sender in it. Hoseline moved it to one of their lines. Other than that I'm ready to recharge. Your list will come in handy, thank you.

 

[Mattersnots]

Looks Like 1300w.

What type of solar controller are you going with for all that beautiful sun power?

Correct, 1300 watts. I have a Victron Energy 150/85 solar controller thanks to Ryan at Bahn Composites. More details on the electrics to follow.

 

[rlrenz]

Unfortunately, you don't have a dual system, you just have the straight engine driven system. You don't have a 12/120 board, you don't have stand-by AC, but you may have a digital thermostat for the AC system since this was a common upgrade in place of the manual heat/cool thermostat.

It's normal to have two condensers with an engine driven system. The original truck condenser is in front of the radiator, and there is a separate condenser under the module (the ambulance portion). The separate condenser measures about 14x26" or so, and is there to handle the module's AC load, but it also helps the truck cab cooling. The overall system operates much better when the dash switch "HEAT/COOL" (or something like that) is turned on. This starts the Hoseline system, and if the AC thermostat in the module is set for lower than the outside temperature (such as 70 or so), the cab will really cool well.

Since the existing truck system is similar to the add-on 120 volt system, there are some common components --the under module condenser is the same, and the evaporator is comparable. Trying to run the truck's compressor with an electric motor may be more of a headache than it's worth since the module AC is probably rated at 30,000+ BTU, and will require a fairly large motor.

The compressor Hoseline uses for their 120 volt stand-by system is sized for a 11,000 BTU system, and can run on a standard 20 amp circuit. 11,000 BTU is a standard size for smaller RVs, and an ambulance would probably be comparable to a small RV in cooling load.

The Hoseline compressor is a Tecumseh RKA5512YXA, and is designed for R134a cooling applications. The Hoseline catalog shows it with a compressor cooling fan, but Hoseline no longer uses a separate cooling fan on the compressor.

These compressors are available on-line. I bought mine as a Hoseline conversion kit for $100, and a friend of mine also found one on ebay for about the same price.

If you go this route, you will probably have to replace the existing Hoseline expansion block with a separate expansion valve sized for closer to 12,000 BTU or so.

The photo shows a dual evaporator set up for both the truck AC (evaporator block) and the stand-by 11,000 BTU system with an expansion valve

 

[Mattersnots]

Unfortunately, you don't have a dual system, you just have the straight engine driven system. You don't have a 12/120 board, you don't have stand-by AC, but you may have a digital thermostat for the AC system since this was a common upgrade in place of the manual heat/cool thermostat.

It's normal to have two condensers with an engine driven system. The original truck condenser is in front of the radiator, and there is a separate condenser under the module (the ambulance portion). The separate condenser measures about 14x26" or so, and is there to handle the module's AC load, but it also helps the truck cab cooling. The overall system operates much better when the dash switch "HEAT/COOL" (or something like that) is turned on. This starts the Hoseline system, and if the AC thermostat in the module is set for lower than the outside temperature (such as 70 or so), the cab will really cool well.

Since the existing truck system is similar to the add-on 120 volt system, there are some common components --the under module condenser is the same, and the evaporator is comparable. Trying to run the truck's compressor with an electric motor may be more of a headache than it's worth since the module AC is probably rated at 30,000+ BTU, and will require a fairly large motor.

The compressor Hoseline uses for their 120 volt stand-by system is sized for a 11,000 BTU system, and can run on a standard 20 amp circuit. 11,000 BTU is a standard size for smaller RVs, and an ambulance would probably be comparable to a small RV in cooling load.

The Hoseline compressor is a Tecumseh RKA5512YXA, and is designed for R134a cooling applications. The Hoseline catalog shows it with a compressor cooling fan, but Hoseline no longer uses a separate cooling fan on the compressor.

These compressors are available on-line. I bought mine as a Hoseline conversion kit for $100, and a friend of mine also found one on ebay for about the same price.

If you go this route, you will probably have to replace the existing Hoseline expansion block with a separate expansion valve sized for closer to 12,000 BTU or so.

The photo shows a dual evaporator set up for both the truck AC (evaporator block) and the stand-by 11,000 BTU system with an expansion valve

Thanks Bob. You are the Hoseline Man. If I was your neighbor I'd probably add in the dual system. Since however we are thousands of miles apart, my hoseline system has been removed. I currently have a portable home a/c heat pump unit installed. One wire, one vent, one drain. The unit fell into my lap from my cousin when I was trying to figure out which route to take. I decided it was destiny and started pulling hose lines.

 

[rlrenz]

In many cases, the originsl Hoseline evaporator installation footprint is large enough to fit in a 5000-6000 BTU window AC, with the condenser heat being dumped through a new hole in the front of the module. It's also very common to see an RV rooftop AC on top of a medium ambulance. I saw one installation where an RV AC was mounted over the cab, and then ducted into the module.

You're cooling an 8x14 ft or so space, so if it's insulated, it won't take a whole lot to cool it.

 

[Mattersnots]

It's been a while since I updated. I've been at it full time but seems like a lot of the smaller details have been taking precedence. I have finished a few items however including this cabinet. Nice to have at least one place where I no longer need to do anything. Having said that I'll probably be back in there for something. Yes, there are many valves. But with many valves come many options. The system will do all of the normal functions like filling, city hook up, draining, etc. The extra valves allow for options such as bypassing the uv filter on city hookup, bypassing all the filters for faster filling, filling from a stream, using the fill port as an outside shower or truck wash. I'll eventually mark the valves with color codes so I know where to put them for any given operation. On a side note, pex and cinch clamps are amazing. I've used over 200 of them without a leak.



As I said earlier the hoseline ac/heating system has been removed. It was much easier than I thought. The entire system is now off the premises. I didn't get much for it but was paid well for my handling time and it will now be used instead of trashed.



Ok, don't laugh about this one. My cousin had this ac unit he was getting rid of. It came up at the same time I was trying to decide to pull the hoseline. When he said I could have it for 120 bucks, and I measured the draw at 1000 watts, and it has a built in heat pump, I couldn't pass it up. My plan was to pull it apart and put it in the original hoseline location. No go, the evaporator/condenser were stacked and not to be taken apart. I then decided on this spot. Vents right out the side, the intake is clear and I can hide it in the bench. So far it's working great. 13,000 btu cools it down nicely at night and it even has a remote. If it doesn't work out hey, I'm getting pretty good at bondo.



Finally got to make a couple interior parts. This is the sliding door between the cab and shower. I used the old door and track and added insulation.



The door came together nicely and looks/works well in it's new spot. Sure makes a difference blocking off the cab for the a/c.



The other project didn't go so well. I spent the whole day figuring, planning, and building this box which goes on top of the electrical cabinet. In the end I had to walk away realizing it most likely wasn't going to happen. That night I realized that if I ditched the whole stereo behind the door plan and moved it across the way all would be good. If the stereo wasn't there then the switches could also migrate across the camper. In the end I got a good start on a multi room bird house and gave myself two more days of work. On the plus side, 6 more inches of counter space. I'll take that trade any day.