jasonL_031
Adventurer
aahh i was wondering why the build almost stopped lol. have a good tour
2010 Dodge Cummins 3/4 Ton Crew Cab
- Thread starter sapper
- Start date
Regcabguy
Oil eater.
I sat in a Mexican built,sold and registered 2010 2500 QCSB CTD the other day. The dash was setup in metric and lo and behold no requirement for ULSD. No DPF on this guy! It did have an EGR,but I'm sure the guy's working at blocking that puppy up. He's probably looking into getting a Smarty for it if the tune exists for Mexican ECM's.
The 4G's are much more comfortable than my '07. More headroom,better seats and just a superior feel to them regarding fit and finish.
I am home from Afghanistan for a bit and trying to get everything ready for a 5500k trip this summer. Well I decided to bite the bullet and delete the emissions and add a few items.
I did an oil sample at 8000k and had 4.8% fuel dilution and this had to change. In order for the DPF system to function raw fuel is added during the exhaust stroke to later be burned in the DPF filter. This raw fuel washes the cylinder and past the rings. This greatly reduces engine life and combined with the EGR system puts exhaust filled with soot back into the engine which also greatly increases oil contaminates. In order to remove the DPF and EGR system trouble free I needed an engine programmer. The choices on the market are very limited so I picked the only one there was which has been getting very high reviews. H&S Performance Mini-Maxx. I ordered it an a bunch of other parts/software from Rollin Smoke Diesel.
I also chose to delete the EGR cooler as it will no longer be required and adds heat to the coolant which is not required.
The other item I ordered was an intake manifold with integrated grid heater to delete the factory grid heater and improve air flow into the engine. I ordered it from WCC Diesel Performance. The intake and the engine programmer also allow for the throttle valve to be deleted.
I must say both companies were a pleasure to deal with and I will reccommend them to anyone and I will be using them in the future.
I am just waiting for a couple little things to get here to begin putting everything on the truck. I will try to post a lot of photos of the whole process for those that care or are curious.
I did an oil sample at 8000k and had 4.8% fuel dilution and this had to change. In order for the DPF system to function raw fuel is added during the exhaust stroke to later be burned in the DPF filter. This raw fuel washes the cylinder and past the rings. This greatly reduces engine life and combined with the EGR system puts exhaust filled with soot back into the engine which also greatly increases oil contaminates. In order to remove the DPF and EGR system trouble free I needed an engine programmer. The choices on the market are very limited so I picked the only one there was which has been getting very high reviews. H&S Performance Mini-Maxx. I ordered it an a bunch of other parts/software from Rollin Smoke Diesel.
I also chose to delete the EGR cooler as it will no longer be required and adds heat to the coolant which is not required.
The other item I ordered was an intake manifold with integrated grid heater to delete the factory grid heater and improve air flow into the engine. I ordered it from WCC Diesel Performance. The intake and the engine programmer also allow for the throttle valve to be deleted.
I must say both companies were a pleasure to deal with and I will reccommend them to anyone and I will be using them in the future.
I am just waiting for a couple little things to get here to begin putting everything on the truck. I will try to post a lot of photos of the whole process for those that care or are curious.
Waiting for the parts to arrive is killing me. I can't wait to see how the truck changes.
I am tempted to use the Iphone App "Pocket Dyno" and see what changes it can pick up. Honestly I won't be doing too many wide open throttle runs but I am curious to know how much it changes and this test would confirm my opinions/judgements.
I am tempted to use the Iphone App "Pocket Dyno" and see what changes it can pick up. Honestly I won't be doing too many wide open throttle runs but I am curious to know how much it changes and this test would confirm my opinions/judgements.
Well the majority of my parts arrived yesterday so I started taking a bunch of the OEM pieces out. I have the intake/egr/throttle valve removed with anyone with basic tools could do in a less than an hour. Now relocating the grid heater plate was a bit more of a PITA. I had to remove all of the fuel injector lines to move the fuel rail in order to get the grid heater plate out. This takes time and patience because it not in an area to gain easy access and the risk to damage things it high. The wiring harness connector is right in the wrong spot so it is limited that your wench has very limited travel to remove the injectors.
Today I will be removing the EGR cooler but my plates are not here yet so I may have to run to the shop and make some rough ones to use until the ones I ordered arrive, and I will have to drill the manifold to place the pyro. I will also have the exhaust off the truck today once I drop the tranny crossmember.
Today I will be removing the EGR cooler but my plates are not here yet so I may have to run to the shop and make some rough ones to use until the ones I ordered arrive, and I will have to drill the manifold to place the pyro. I will also have the exhaust off the truck today once I drop the tranny crossmember.
Well I got a bunch more done today between the rain storms and the yard work. I had to run to the parts store to get a 1/2"NPT to 5/8" Barbed fitting for the coolant bypass hose to allow proper coolant flow through the head. I also needed 2 hose clamps. There was very little coolant loss removing the EGR Cooler. Once the cooler was out I needed to drill a 1/8" NPT in the exhaust manifold ahead of the turbo. I used grease on the drill bit and tap to prevent anything from going into the turbo and I also used a vacume to make extra sure that there was no shavings into the turbo.
I got the power wire for the Mini-Maxx routed into the cab as well as the USB cable for the Pyro ran into the cab. The exhaust is the last major part to do on the truck to be completed which should be here Monday I hope before I can drive the truck again.
I need to find a bracket for the transmission dipstick, coolant hose, and factory pyro tube. This is something I will more than likely have to make as well as the 2 temporary exhaust caps.
I was really surprised at the weight of all the parts I removed from under the hood. The EGR parts were very heavy. Under the hood is looking really good now that there is a lot more space to move and actually see the engine.
I got the power wire for the Mini-Maxx routed into the cab as well as the USB cable for the Pyro ran into the cab. The exhaust is the last major part to do on the truck to be completed which should be here Monday I hope before I can drive the truck again.
I need to find a bracket for the transmission dipstick, coolant hose, and factory pyro tube. This is something I will more than likely have to make as well as the 2 temporary exhaust caps.
I was really surprised at the weight of all the parts I removed from under the hood. The EGR parts were very heavy. Under the hood is looking really good now that there is a lot more space to move and actually see the engine.
Well today I was able to make the exhaust block outs done and finished pulling the factory exhaust. These OEM parts have some weight to them.
Also for anyone who has not removed the factory exhaust from their vehicle there is a metal clip on the tailpipe hanger that needs to be removed before it will come down. I wasted 20 mins trying to figure this out.
Also dropping the tranny cross member was really easy and I have the extra skid plates which added some time but this was easily done. I really wish that there was a plug on the wiring running on the cross member to make it easier to remove.
Everything I did I tried to use only basic tools that most people would have or have easy access too. The only things I needed besides a basic set of wrenches and sockets was a drill, 1/8” NPT tap, and a jack to support the tranny while removing the cross member.
Here are some pictures of where it is now. Just waiting for the exhaust to get here now.
Also for anyone who has not removed the factory exhaust from their vehicle there is a metal clip on the tailpipe hanger that needs to be removed before it will come down. I wasted 20 mins trying to figure this out.
Also dropping the tranny cross member was really easy and I have the extra skid plates which added some time but this was easily done. I really wish that there was a plug on the wiring running on the cross member to make it easier to remove.
Everything I did I tried to use only basic tools that most people would have or have easy access too. The only things I needed besides a basic set of wrenches and sockets was a drill, 1/8” NPT tap, and a jack to support the tranny while removing the cross member.
Here are some pictures of where it is now. Just waiting for the exhaust to get here now.
It's alive...
I can't believe how responsive the truck is now even in the no power setting of the mini-maxi. It is really nice to be able to monitor the engine vitals now and also get better fuel mileage. The exhaust is nice with no drone at all.
I did get scares for a second when it had a very long crank on the first start, I had forgotten that I had removed the fuel lines. Overall I am very pleased with the truck and how it now runs.
My AFE high capacity diff cover also arrived today which I will put on tommorrow once the rain let's off. I also have an exhaust rattle at slow speeds but I think I know exactly which OEM exhaust hanger is making contact with the muffler.
I can't believe how responsive the truck is now even in the no power setting of the mini-maxi. It is really nice to be able to monitor the engine vitals now and also get better fuel mileage. The exhaust is nice with no drone at all.
I did get scares for a second when it had a very long crank on the first start, I had forgotten that I had removed the fuel lines. Overall I am very pleased with the truck and how it now runs.
My AFE high capacity diff cover also arrived today which I will put on tommorrow once the rain let's off. I also have an exhaust rattle at slow speeds but I think I know exactly which OEM exhaust hanger is making contact with the muffler.
It stop raining long enough for me to get back under the truck. I found the cause of the rattle. The second last tail pipe section has 2 hangers on it an one of the hangers was contacting the factory hangers. I bent it away from the frame and it is no longer contacting.
I also took it out for another drive and tried out the hot tune for a short run and was surprised to see the black smoke coming out of the tailpipe and the EGT's hit 1550 even though I have it to defuel at 1400. I also noticed that the boost hit 29PSI. I will not be doing this much if ever again other than to get a HP reading and then back to mild or no power.
Tomorrow I will hopefully get the AFE diff cover installed if the weather is nice and change the oil in the engine even though it was just done last week.
I also took it out for another drive and tried out the hot tune for a short run and was surprised to see the black smoke coming out of the tailpipe and the EGT's hit 1550 even though I have it to defuel at 1400. I also noticed that the boost hit 29PSI. I will not be doing this much if ever again other than to get a HP reading and then back to mild or no power.
Tomorrow I will hopefully get the AFE diff cover installed if the weather is nice and change the oil in the engine even though it was just done last week.
I am glad I purchased different clamps than the ones provided. I like this clamps much better, although loose in the picture.
The exhaust was banged up a bit and required some hammering to get the ends back to round.
The hanger and bracket that was causing the noise.
I now forget that I have close to 1000lbs of stuff on the back of the truck.
The work for tomorrow, and a before picture.
Now I just need to get my cooler delete kit with the tranny dipstick bracket, harness plugs and a couple other things.
I also still need to finish making a bracket to mount my dual inline filters (FS1212 Fleetguard, and IR750 CAT). I don't think I will ever be done on this truck.
The exhaust was banged up a bit and required some hammering to get the ends back to round.
The hanger and bracket that was causing the noise.
I now forget that I have close to 1000lbs of stuff on the back of the truck.
The work for tomorrow, and a before picture.
Now I just need to get my cooler delete kit with the tranny dipstick bracket, harness plugs and a couple other things.
I also still need to finish making a bracket to mount my dual inline filters (FS1212 Fleetguard, and IR750 CAT). I don't think I will ever be done on this truck.