2012 LR4 Overland Project - Build Journal & Blog

[treckin]

Hi guys,

I'm new to this forum but I wanted to make a thread here to journal some of the outfitting I've done and am planning to do to my 2012 LR4 HSE Lux.

Here's the baseline:

Vehicle purchased from a JLR dealer, 2 previous owners. 81,XXX on the odometer when I picked her up. Original purchaser declined the HD package unfortunately, but did get the 5 camera Vision Assist option, which has been pretty useful and I intend to modify. As far as I can tell the vehicle was exclusively used for commuting. There were essentially no signs of wear and tear in the interior, and only minor exterior blemishes.

So far, I took the vehicle to Frank Raines OHV park, outside Patterson, California, twice for shake-down runs.

The first time out, I discovered the/ruined the F/L LCA, rear bushing.

The second time out, I hit ~10 inches of mud pretty quickly and ruined the alternator immediately. Why the heck would you put the alternator at the bottom of the belt train on a vehicle that is specced for water crossings?? This must be unique to the NA 5.0 V8 engine accessory drive setup... Vehicle drove about 30-35 miles on the battery alone before needing a flatbed back to base.

I took her to the shop, replaced the alternator, and added the following:

• SYA Off-Road bump stop spacer, limit straps, and lift rods.
  
  
• Polyurethane bushings for Lower Control Arms, Front and Rear Swaybars and front end links
  
  
• 32" 275/55/20 BFG KO2s, D-rated
  
  
• Using IID tool from Gap Diagnostics I lifted the truck and calibrated the air suspension. I added enough clearance to use all 3 hight selection modes: Off-Road, Normal, and Access.
  
  
• I added the digital speedometer readout to the Instrument Cluster, and adjusted the Rolling Tyre Radius field in the IC calibration to match the 32" tires (speedo reads correctly now).
  
  
• I added the Front Runner Slimline roofrack & rear ladder
  
  
• Full cabin seat covers and rubber mats
  

She looks and feels great! Here's some lessons learned:

• The front lower control arm bolt guides (the metal cylinders that go inside the polybushing, through which the eccentric alignment adjustment bolt attaches to the LCA clevis, was too long and needed to be trimmed to fit inside the LCA clevis
  
  
• 32" tires fit just fine with essentially 0 modifications, only the slightest rubbing and at full right steering lock - assuming you have adjusted the suspension height correctly
  
  
• If you install the limit straps correctly, there are no issues at any suspension height
  
  
• You cannot "alt tab" on your phone while using the IID tool to calibrate the suspension
  
  
• Ignore the 465mm front and 485mm rear baseline adjustments suggested by the "guided" alignment procedure, unless you're using factory tires. Instead use 490 front, 500 rear, Otherwise you will not be able to use access mode (the vehicle will lift into extended mode when it detects a bottoming/bumpstop condition at all 4 corners, this is a product of the bumpstop spacer)
  
  
• The corners can be as much as a half centimeter off as measured from the ground to the top of the wheel arch (at 0 caster) - I tried to calibrate it out quite a few times, seems like it may just be inside the error tolerance window
  
  
• You might be tempted to try to run the suspension lower than the 490mm figure, however the dampers do not perform correctly/normally when lower than that. Its a night and day difference, give it a shot. Rebound and compression damping are really off if the vehicle is too low once the bumpstops have been shimmed
  
  
• Even with M/S rated street tires and no lift, the LR4 us a super capable wheeler. The HDC (Hill Descent Control) system is crazy powerful.
  
  
• Low range in rock crawling mode - turn off DSC or traction control as suggested in the 4x4 nav application
  
  
• Transmission shifting in "D" while in low range and rock crawl mode is painfully rough/sharp/disruptive, use the manual shift mode to stay in 2nd gear for everything but climbing and mounting
  
  
• The Vision Assist Cameras on the sideview mirrors are super useful with the "Kerb View" special view selected. You get a left/right view with your front tires in frame. The rear/bottom of the image is calibrated to precisely the front of the rear tires, so when the obstacle hits the bottom of the frame it just just touching the rear tires. The ones on the front bumper are beyond useless.
  
  
• Trust the terrain response computer, brake traction control, and center locker. Pretend its not there and drive slow and steady, the car will generally do everything else even if you take a really dumb line over an obstacle.
  
  
• The Front Runner side rails rattle like crazy and need to be manually gasketed/secured/quieted/silenced
  
  
• The alternator on the 5.0 V8 is NOT mud-proof in any way, and is mounted super low in the accessory system. Horrible design, I might try to relocate it someday.

Pics attached:

 

[treckin]

Continued:

Here's whats on order and planned:

• Ordered: Front Runner LR4 drawer system for 3rd row seats
  
  
• Ordered: APT Air Compressor Guard, Air Tank Guard, and Lower Control Arm Protectors
  
  
• Ordered: Used OEM Land Rover Locking Differential carrier and assembly
  
  
• Ordered: Used LR4 Rear Differential ECU - Retrofit with IID tool
  
  
• Tactical Rovers front winch bar, side steps/rock sliders, rear bumper with spare carrier and dual jerry can holder. Modify front winch bumper to install front Vision Assist cameras under chassis as obstacle monitoring/positioning feeds. Retain all park assist sensors and functionality. Relocate rear camera with Fakra extension/reroute to jerry can holder/license plate relocation frame. transmission, transfer case, and gas tank skids.
  
  
• ARB front locker system
  
  
• Warn 7500 Kg winch system
  
  
• Complete Polybush kit
  
  
• YETI power system, solar panels, battery isolator
  
  
• ARB 2nd row middle seat refrigerator
  
  
• Retrofit ACC/ADAS package using IID tool
  
  
• Move to 33"/34" load range E tires - modify frame horns, facia/wheel arch trimming, HVAC/wiring harness reroute
  
• Purchase remaining recovery gear
  
  
• Find another 2x 10-spoke 20" rims in black powdercoat or use plastidip/rattlecan
  
  
• Tepui or similar rooftop tent
  
  
• Lights all around

I work in the Automotive Engineering field, so there are some stretch goals that may or may not take on as a side project to this one:

• Fabricate custom control arms/end links to correct the A-arm & air strut geometry when lifting the vehicle
  
  
• Custom axles uprated in length and strength
  
  
• Custom snorkle for NA 5.0 V8 motors - either single side with an open/close watertight valve for the left fender intake, or a double sided snorkel kit
  
  
• Contrast filters for the Vision Assist cameras (yellow film with correct color temp and transmissivity to boost image contrast on the display in vehicle)
  
  
• Use spare tire location under rear to install auxiliary fuel tank, level sender, filler neck adaptation, EVAP system, etc.

 

[ar4me]

I added the digital speedometer readout to the Instrument Cluster, and adjusted the Rolling Tyre Radius field in the IC calibration to match the 32" tires (speedo reads correctly now).

Sure about that? I tried on my LR4, and it makes zero difference to the speedometer reading on my car. It continues to show 2-3 MPH too low at 70 MPH when compared to a GPS speed reading, but at least it does not immediately set off the CEL like it used to... lol... I have read it is working on the LR3, but haven't heard of success on an LR4, but I guess you changed that. Also, disabling TPMS on the spare with the iidtool has no effect either... It still complains about the spare tire pressure (moved the spare to the swing arm tire carrier). Too many things not working with the iidtool IMO - every time I try it for something slightly off the beaten path, it is hit or miss whether it will do something useful - I feel that as a customer I am doing their testing for them...

 

[treckin]

Works fine for me, confirmed with GPS speed comparision.

Are you sure you’re using the “rolling tyre radius” data field only, and measuring from the center of the rim to the pavement?

It was ~10% off before the calibration, dead accurate after.

Cheers!

 

[ar4me]

Thanks. Yeah, wonder if some software is not up to date on car or tool, or if mine being a 2010 somehow deviates. Will try again, but I left it in the changed setting so not sure what else to do...

 

[treckin]

I did have to update the tools firmware, to 3.0.1 build 2556 or close to that. You also have to power the tool from usb (not vehicle) and launch the update tool (I used OSX bt they also support windows). Once you update the device fw you then connect your phone with bluetooth (still on usb connection only) and then the app will download all the updated files required for operation.

For me the on - dash instrument cluster menu doesn’t really work. Only once in a while.

Also as I noted above, the app doesn’t work with alt tabbing on iOS. It’ll do it but it’ll lose connection without notifying you (it’ll still say connected).

At least that’s the issue I was having with the guided calibration failing to upload with E1/2 error code on IId tool.

Cheers!

 

[ar4me]

Thanks for the pointers! Yes, doing it all with MacBook and iPhone as well. Sounds like steps I have gone through, but I will try mess with it some more... probably been about 8 months since I checked for and installed firmware updates for the tool.

 

[Mavriks]

Appreciate your detailed info on the LR4. We have a 2013 RRS, which I believe is on the same platform as your LR4 (2010-2013). My wife is looking at new cars, so I've offered to take the Sport off of her hands.
(seems to be a theme of helping out wives on several forums; would be an interesting tread to see outcomes)

I'm interested in learning about your install of the OEM rear locking differential. I'm getting tired of getting stuck in snow, mostly near pavement, and having to put on chains or get a tow a few feet to pavement. But really want the rear locking diff for more off road capability. I've called two dealers, but they seem confused about adding an OEM locking rear diff. One suggests after market product (I can't find any for rear) and another says really expensive because of electronics. Yours sounded straight forward. Any advice? Where did you get the used locking rear diff? Cost estimates and install/electronics advice?
I see that ARB offers a front air locking diff for the LR4, but not yet a rear? I'd like to have both, but really pricey but as a start, prefer the rear locking diff. because it seems to be much more practical for one locker only; rather than a front only.

I've purchased OEM LR 18" wheels and Bora 1.25" spacers in order to fit the wheels past the brake calipers. Looking at tires right now. I will periodically swap my street 20" wheels for the 18" backcountry use. (FYI I also have a set of 19" wheels with Bridgestone Blazzak winter tires which I run for the snow season.)

I'm trying to stay at 31" max height tires (BF Goodrich AT T/A KO2 265-60-18 are 30.5" tall) on the 18" wheels in order to avoid rubbing and installing a lift, but definitely want the bumpstops for back road security in the event of EAS failure.

 

[treckin]

Appreciate your detailed info on the LR4. We have a 2013 RRS, which I believe is on the same platform as your LR4 (2010-2013). My wife is looking at new cars, so I've offered to take the Sport off of her hands.
(seems to be a theme of helping out wives on several forums; would be an interesting tread to see outcomes)

I'm interested in learning about your install of the OEM rear locking differential. I'm getting tired of getting stuck in snow, mostly near pavement, and having to put on chains or get a tow a few feet to pavement. But really want the rear locking diff for more off road capability. I've called two dealers, but they seem confused about adding an OEM locking rear diff. One suggests after market product (I can't find any for rear) and another says really expensive because of electronics. Yours sounded straight forward. Any advice? Where did you get the used locking rear diff? Cost estimates and install/electronics advice?
I see that ARB offers a front air locking diff for the LR4, but not yet a rear? I'd like to have both, but really pricey but as a start, prefer the rear locking diff. because it seems to be much more practical for one locker only; rather than a front only.

I've purchased OEM LR 18" wheels and Bora 1.25" spacers in order to fit the wheels past the brake calipers. Looking at tires right now. I will periodically swap my street 20" wheels for the 18" backcountry use. (FYI I also have a set of 19" wheels with Bridgestone Blazzak winter tires which I run for the snow season.)

I'm trying to stay at 31" max height tires (BF Goodrich AT T/A KO2 265-60-18 are 30.5" tall) on the 18" wheels in order to avoid rubbing and installing a lift, but definitely want the bumpstops for back road security in the event of EAS failure.

For the rear differential lock retrofit, I haven’t done it yet although I have the diff ordered and the ECU.

I have the pinouts for the relevant modules, attached.

The jist is this: swap the diff carrier and diff assembly, it should bolt right up and have the same ratios etc.

In fact I suspect that the locking rear, left entirely unplugged, would run as an open diff with zero issues.

In terms of wiring, it looks like the vast majority of the connections are from the diff ecu to the diff motor controller, diff temp sensor, etc, with a single tap to hi-high speed CAN network (two wires, high/low), power and ground.

After doing this swap, I’m hoping the locking diff will broadcast it’s presence on HS CAN (for the Instrument Cluster CCF edit - the locking diff icon on the 4x4 app.

In terms of vehicle signals, the HS CAN connection clearly carries the vehicle wheel speed signals etc that are used by the differential ecu algorithms to drive the locker motor.

The parts should arrive May 3-5, the diff may need to be rebuilt which means shipping to centurion differentials or a local shop here to rebuild and set lash etc.

I got the parts on EBay, just be super conscious because many listers are posting pics of the non locking diff and the postings say it’s the locking unit. One post had the VIN of the donor vehicle, which when I ran the VIN didn’t have the diff option.

Also there’s some incorrectly labeled LR3 ecus labeled as being compatible with LR4, which I understand to be incorrect.

For the front locker I suspect that would be more useful as the front wheels have the best traction (weight of motor over front wheels), compared to the rear locker.

I want both

As I said in the OP, I work in automotive engineering so this kind of stuff doesn’t really scare me. I’d like to use a 3D scanner or CMM arm to parametric model the suspension components and build a kinematic model of the suspension system.

If I get that far with the project, definitely expect to see some new parts on the market for LR4s!

 

[treckin]

I'm trying to stay at 31" max height tires (BF Goodrich AT T/A KO2 265-60-18 are 30.5" tall) on the 18" wheels in order to avoid rubbing and installing a lift, but definitely want the bumpstops for back road security in the event of EAS failure.

You should note, at factory tire size the factory bumpstop height will allow you to drive out. You can use the IID tool or similar to put the car on all 4 bumps and try driving around.

FWIW in the OP I also described how if you use the spacers, because of the way the air spring/dampener unit is moved downward in Z axis, you MUST run a complementing lift otherwise the dampers are out of their range and fail to damp compression and rebound correctly.

Also, with the proper height calibration, you can run 32” tires without any modifications to the arches/frame horns (again, see my OP).

I haven’t taken her off trail in this config yet, so stay tuned for that check-in (another week or two).

 

[ar4me]

I did have to update the tools firmware, to 3.0.1 build 2556 or close to that. You also have to power the tool from usb (not vehicle) and launch the update tool (I used OSX bt they also support windows). Once you update the device fw you then connect your phone with bluetooth (still on usb connection only) and then the app will download all the updated files required for operation.

For me the on - dash instrument cluster menu doesn’t really work. Only once in a while.

Also as I noted above, the app doesn’t work with alt tabbing on iOS. It’ll do it but it’ll lose connection without notifying you (it’ll still say connected).

At least that’s the issue I was having with the guided calibration failing to upload with E1/2 error code on IId tool.

Cheers!

Thanks for the pointers! Yes, doing it all with MacBook and iPhone as well. Sounds like steps I have gone through, but I will try mess with it some more... probably been about 8 months since I checked for and installed firmware updates for the tool.

Ok. I updated to latest release which is 3.00.00 Build 2530 - no difference. I also have access to Beta versions from GAP Diagnostics and just tried 3.00.00 Build 2559 - setting it to 394mm or 406mm (275/65-18 is my tire size) still shows about 1 mph too low at 35 mph. Enabled digital speed showing for ease of comparison. Still not convinced this is working correctly. What tire size are you running? What did you set the "Rolling Tyre Radius (ABS)" field to?

 

[treckin]

Ok. I updated to latest release which is 3.00.00 Build 2530 - no difference. I also have access to Beta versions from GAP Diagnostics and just tried 3.00.00 Build 2559 - setting it to 394mm or 406mm (275/65-18 is my tire size) still shows about 1 mph too low at 35 mph. Enabled digital speed showing for ease of comparison. Still not convinced this is working correctly. What tire size are you running? What did you set the "Rolling Tyre Radius (ABS)" field to?

I believe I set it to the 32” option which was listed as 275/65/18 in the GAP tool.

As a follow up, I checked on the freeway with the gps speed app as groundtruth, and I am still about 3 mph slow indicated on the dash at 70 mph gps speed.

I’ll play with it some more and post the results!

I got the differential ECU in today, I’ll have a write up with pics later this evening as well.

Cheers!

 

[ar4me]

I believe I set it to the 32” option which was listed as 275/65/18 in the GAP tool.

As a follow up, I checked on the freeway with the gps speed app as groundtruth, and I am still about 3 mph slow indicated on the dash at 70 mph gps speed.

I’ll play with it some more and post the results!

I got the differential ECU in today, I’ll have a write up with pics later this evening as well.

Cheers!

Thanks! That would be the 394 mm option, if I recall correctly. That sounds pretty much where I am at in terms of being off. Though, I don't seem to be able to get to the real speed. You are off by a little less than 5% - you should get correct speed by changing it to 411 mm...

 

[treckin]

I’ll try a larger radius as well and see what happens, it’s possible we are going out of range for that value - if it’s stored as a 256 bit number or otherwise sampled we could be ranging out the parameter etc.

Depending on how complex their logic for speed estimation is there could be other clever ways to get it dead accurate, including the radius of the ABS rings being changed, using a signal generator/ADC-DAC to compress the square wave function to replicate the smaller tire rotation speeds, etc.

One thing I’m interested in is how much the tire diameter being different in reality to what the Terrain Response System algorithms are tuned for - meaning the TRS calculates amount of wheel slip using the wheel speed sensors. The speed sensors are used to understand how much the tire slipped, which I’m hoping isn’t too dependent on this tire size value. I wish GAP would at least expose some values from that ECU (?) to poke around.

 

[ar4me]

I wish GAP would clearly document which functions are tested and verified on which vehicles... maybe they have, but I just can't find it. And, that we had a manual documenting all the car configuration features. If you go to live values on the iidtool, you will see a list of validated and a separate list unvalidated values/parameters. You would think they would also test and only expose verified features, but it seems they "just" throw everything out there, and it is up to you... The fact that turning of the TPMS sensor on the spare tire in the CCF has no effect is just weird... however, at a similar level I was successfully able to turn off parking front sensor/parking aid while having the rear on (my OEM front winch eliminated the front sensors).