treckin
Member
From the Yeti 400 lithium ??
2012 LR4 Overland Project - Build Journal & Blog
- Thread starter treckin
- Start date
From the Yeti 400 lithium ??
Abran
Observer
The 32” will fit. I suggest airing it down to 8-10 psi. Also remove the 4 rubber bumpers that are there to protect the rim, your tire will contact with the metal and save the rim.
I added a photo of mine, 285/60r18 ( 31.5” but I have put bigger on other LR3s). Also our coffee set up!
I added a photo of mine, 285/60r18 ( 31.5” but I have put bigger on other LR3s). Also our coffee set up!
treckin
Member
Love the chemex in the pelican case - I have one too and I was wondering what to do about the glass!
I just messed around with the tire - I have the tow hitch, which seems to interfere a bit as well, bt from my fit test, the plastic heat shield seems to be what’s in the way the most.
Also, does anyone know what the deal with the rear ballast weights is?
Do you remove them when installing rear armor?
I just messed around with the tire - I have the tow hitch, which seems to interfere a bit as well, bt from my fit test, the plastic heat shield seems to be what’s in the way the most.
Also, does anyone know what the deal with the rear ballast weights is?
Do you remove them when installing rear armor?
treckin
Member
Alright another quick update:
I finally got around to fixing the tire rubbing on the 32” tires. It was really quite easy.
I took a 4lb mini sledge to each frame horn, beating it into submission as best as possible.
After that I took a die grinder to them and burned up a few Harbor Freight bits. Tapped the area with flat black Rustolium enamel.
Also trimmed like 2” of material I’m the F/L wheel well, small plastic crap that literally wasn’t doing anything even cosmetically.
No rubbing at all now, very happy!
Also, 1st pass at making a wind deflector for the heinous noise on the Front Runner rack.
I used a scrap piece of aluminum, cut it to size, used a mini sledge hammer and a work bench to make a ************ press break ? drilled some holes, applied tension with 3/32” braided steel cable fastened with ferroules and turnbuckles.
One laterally to form the curve of the roofline, and one longitudinally to draw it down to the rubber touchpoints.
On the next pass I’m going to use thicker plate so I don’t need as much longitudinal tension to create the stiffness required to defeat hilariously severe buffering in the air dam. This will allow me to seal the entire lateral edge of the dam against the roofline with a rubber edge seal. Also plan to fasten the sides to the Front Runner foot rails and ditch the turnbuckles.
Also, the Camp Chef stove is freaking ************:
And a bonus pic of me and my buddies Defender. We are going this weekend somewhere, but not Lassen. Rained out.
I finally got around to fixing the tire rubbing on the 32” tires. It was really quite easy.
I took a 4lb mini sledge to each frame horn, beating it into submission as best as possible.
After that I took a die grinder to them and burned up a few Harbor Freight bits. Tapped the area with flat black Rustolium enamel.
Also trimmed like 2” of material I’m the F/L wheel well, small plastic crap that literally wasn’t doing anything even cosmetically.
No rubbing at all now, very happy!
Also, 1st pass at making a wind deflector for the heinous noise on the Front Runner rack.
I used a scrap piece of aluminum, cut it to size, used a mini sledge hammer and a work bench to make a ************ press break ? drilled some holes, applied tension with 3/32” braided steel cable fastened with ferroules and turnbuckles.
One laterally to form the curve of the roofline, and one longitudinally to draw it down to the rubber touchpoints.
On the next pass I’m going to use thicker plate so I don’t need as much longitudinal tension to create the stiffness required to defeat hilariously severe buffering in the air dam. This will allow me to seal the entire lateral edge of the dam against the roofline with a rubber edge seal. Also plan to fasten the sides to the Front Runner foot rails and ditch the turnbuckles.
Also, the Camp Chef stove is freaking ************:
And a bonus pic of me and my buddies Defender. We are going this weekend somewhere, but not Lassen. Rained out.
Victory_Overland
Explorer
That Camp Chef is nice........how does it fold up and store compared to the advertisement? Does it have a carrying case? Is it fairly sturdy construction and does it rattle around when stowed?
I like following the build, keep up the postings.
Also, if you are into experimenting with the wind deflector, look online for Kydex sheets and order some of the thicker stuff. You can bend it with a heat gun and cut it with sheers or knife too.
I like following the build, keep up the postings.
Also, if you are into experimenting with the wind deflector, look online for Kydex sheets and order some of the thicker stuff. You can bend it with a heat gun and cut it with sheers or knife too.
BSC_100
New member
I looked into this once. The pendulum weights are resonance dampeners. They dampen frame vibration for improved ride quality. Probably also mitigate to some extent wear and tear caused by vibration to components throughout the vehicle in contact with the frame/body.
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treckin
Member
Thanks for the tip on Kydex.
The Camp Chef is extremely sturdily constructed. Everything is nicely welded together and powder coated.
I bought the carrying case which matches the stove, the legs detach and stow in the case. You’ll need to pack it just so to avoid the legs clanking together etc. Turns out the entire stove in its case is a perfect fit for the larger Front Runner drawer (the driver’s side).
Blaise
Well-known member
Loving this Setup! I have an LR3 (but with a locker, hehe) and I'm a few hours north of you in Seattle. Keep it coming, maybe our paths will cross once it gets rainy and dark up here and need to head south!
Also keep the techy engineering stuff coming. I work in aerospace so it's nice to see a like-minded person doing the work on a similar rig. Interested to see what ideas you have for the alternator as well!
Also keep the techy engineering stuff coming. I work in aerospace so it's nice to see a like-minded person doing the work on a similar rig. Interested to see what ideas you have for the alternator as well!
treckin
Member
Just a quick reply - I'll do the full trip writeup after work today (Pacific time..)
For the alternator waterproofing, I started looking into older rovers and how they handled the issue.
First thing to note, series and defenders place the alternator at nearly the height of the airbox. They should be good to wade quite deep,
The older BMW V8 that was in the RRs was the same as the motor from a 1999-2002 or such 540i. The alternator is a fully sealed design actually sits inside the engine blocks water jacket to dissipate operational heat. That explains a lot about how it was good for wading and fording.
The new motors use the AJ engine from a Jaguar etc. The alternator is placed low, around the 7 oclock position. I couldnt see an easy way to relocate it when I looked, even with AC delete (similar position in the belt train). The PS pump is also in a not-so convenient location for the alternator.
Additionally, Im not sure what positive controls the vehicle has over the alternators charging state etc. I understand that there is a factory current clamp on the battery negative which signals the vehicle to enable the regulator to begin charging, and that this happens under various different conditions by design.
I am wondering if the vehicle has a wading sensor and uses this to turn off charging while the car is wet? What a horrible design if true.
Its not clear to me what if any control logic lives on the alternator, or if its a traditional alternator, diode, regulator design.
If its a traditional design, it may be possible to have the alternator rewound and potted/sealed, or it may be possible to spec a bigger/similar alternator that is inherently waterproof. Small adapter bracket and possibly a pulley or custom belt would be required.
Heres the range rover / BMW alternator:
treckin
Member
The EMT kit came in handy - my buddy came up in his 4runner which he just had 34" MTs installed - with NO fender flares.
Going up the trails in Lassen, there was a lot of standing puddles and mud because of the recent rains. As he was enjoying the MTs in the mud, a bunch of ******** got into his eye.
Luckily I had the med kit, busted out the ophthalmic solution, and he rinsed it right out of his eyes.
Having recently had an EKC eye infection due to metal debris scratching up my eye and creating an infection vector, this was awesome,
If anything, I would have gotten the more comprehensive one that comes with OTC medications and sutures.
YMMV