2012 Tacoma Doublecab work truck

Clutch

<---Pass
Kermit and VATACO - Good points but the 5 person loading was a fluke, most of the time I am solo. As much as I have gripped about the taco is is usually the most nimble vehicle on locations. Now that I know that Toyota is't going to back my suspension problems I will just start planning on building a replacement suspension. The taco is my daily driver and I have driven full size pickups enough to not want one.

The closest overlanding rid that I have seen that is close to what I will do is Bajataco and that rig seems like overkill. However his suspension design of Racerunner shocks/struts with heavy duty rear spring should keep me out of trouble.

Coilovers are looking like a good replacement due to the high speed fade that occurs with the rough oil field roads and the crappy county roads that I drive on. I will want to be able to rebuild the shocks/struts myself without having to ship my suspension off for a couple of weeks

The skid plates and gas tank are going in this year, the bumper and winch are optional. I will not have draws, a bed platform, RTT or anything super heavy in the bed except for my 200lbs of misc junk.

Ahh my bad, thought you carried people often.

Yeah, I have basically the same setup on mine as Baja Taco, except I have OME Dakar Heavies...he has Alcan or Deavers in the rear right? I can't remember.

My stock TRD "Offroad" suspension didn't even make it 50,000 miles before it was roached. The Tacoma is a great little truck, for some reason Toyota seems to miss the
mark on their suspension. Every Toyota I have owned, I have broken the stock springs. Maybe it is me that needs a bigger truck...LOL
 

hornytoad

Desert Geologist
Now what!!?!?!?!

So I am packing up the truck to head back down to SE NM this afternoon to start a new project, and look under the hood to check the air filter (slightly dusty) and oil (5W 30 mobil 1 changed at dealership 1k miles ago) when I glance ate the radiator overflow tank and notice that the coolant level is awful low. Uhoh...

Coolant overflow tank has a skim of oil sitting on top of the coolant and tank has a mist of oil coating the inside of the tank. Engine is overnight cold, take off the radiator cap and coolant comes pouring out of the radiator. Uhoh some more....

Start the engine without the radiator cap and more coolant pours out. Bubbles come up with the coolant and drops of oil start surfacing in the coolant.

Oh $#!*.

Call my contractor, call my clients, start the job shuffle to give me some room to get the Tacoma flat bedded to the dealer tomorrow and rent a jeep for the rest of the week while Toyota scratches it's *** and tries to find a way to make this snafu my fault....This is going to be a fun week.

The Tacoma was at the dealership Tuesday for engine noise (turns out it was knocking), suspension issues (they all do that) and rear end whirr (???????).
 

hornytoad

Desert Geologist
Crisis averted??

So last Sunday I found a mess under my hood panicked and sent the truck back to the dealer.

reason for panic - Radiator overflow bottle was at low and had a 1/8" thick layer of oil sitting on top of it.Previously the overflow bottle was above high and was clean.

During inspection while running the radiator fluid had bubbles and oil in it (with the radiator cap removed, cold engine)

The truck got bumped to the front of the line at the dealership. Compression was tested, radiator was tested, no codes..... everyone was stumped.

End result was an oil change -no water in the oil, radiator fluid flush- no additional oil found, and a new radiator cap.

No idea where the oil came from and no idea where the coolant went. Everything was documented and turned into Toyota "Just in Case".

My non-standard toyota dealer did an oil change 2k miles previous to the incident. Maybe the oil got into the coolant there??



On the weird side, using mid range gas 88-90 octane depending on elevation has really perked up the motor and gas mileage is 16-20. at 75-70 mph.
 

downhill

Adventurer
I would say that anything could have happened to your truck at the dealer. I never let a dealer touch mine if I can help it. I have seen spark plugs left loose, plug wires left off, air filters left out, you name it. Somebody probably poured oil in your coolant by mistake.

My trucks build and usage is very similar to yours.

As for your suspension, I would definitely go coil over front. Fox, King, or Icon. I have the Fox 2.5 set at a 2.25" lift. In back I have All Pro Expo springs and they have proven very tough. I'm just using Bilstien 5100s in the rear and they have been fine. I have Timbren bumps, but rarely hit them

as for gas, I only run premium. You are finding out why.

You really should consider airing down on those long drives offroad. I spent weeks at a time aired down running hundreds of miles of ranch roads in Wyoming. Airing down not only softens your ride, but saves a ton of wear on suspension parts. I have onboard air, so when I hit the highway I air up. When I come back off the highway I use calibrated deflators to bring the air down to 18 psi. They work as I drive, and I just remove them a few miles down the road. I bought them probably 20 years ago and don't remember the brand. IMO, your highway pressure is too high to begin with. I run just 36 PSI in my 8 ply tires running "empty" at about 5,000lbs. I run as high as 45 with the truck loaded and a trailer in tow. Even if you don't air down, running a more reasonable street pressure will help a lot.

taco 11.jpg taco 13.jpg
 

downhill

Adventurer
Just found this quote: "ARB bumper aprox 78lbs? Winch with synthetic line ???? Bud Built steel 4 piece skidplates steel 147lbs. Rock rails 75lbs?"

ARB = 120 pounds
winch= 45-50 (warn 8K with syn)
Sliders = 120 pounds, 150 with filler plates

Skid plates can really rack up the weight. I would seriously consider getting Bud Built to make them from aluminum.

weight is your enemy with this truck
 

Plannerman

Wandering Explorer
FYI, The rock sliders on my truck (Demello built) weigh 40 lbs each. The 78 lbs quote for an ARB is way low.


Sent via fat thumb
 

hornytoad

Desert Geologist
Weight estimats

Thanks for the info guys I didn't know how much that front end was going to weigh. The ARB and winch was a guess

The skids and sliders weights were reported shipping weights from Bud built (steel)and Rocky road.

Downhill & Planerman- The aluminum skid plates are on the shopping list as the gas tank skid plate will be aluminum.

So far I havn't scraped the front bumper so that's kinda optional. Gas tanks suspension and skids are mandatory I am hanging up on everything.

Downhill do you have a tip for flushing the toyota auto transmission?
 

downhill

Adventurer
Thanks for the info guys I didn't know how much that front end was going to weigh. The ARB and winch was a guess

The skids and sliders weights were reported shipping weights from Bud built (steel)and Rocky road.

Downhill & Planerman- The aluminum skid plates are on the shopping list as the gas tank skid plate will be aluminum.

So far I havn't scraped the front bumper so that's kinda optional. Gas tanks suspension and skids are mandatory I am hanging up on everything.

Downhill do you have a tip for flushing the toyota auto transmission?

I have a manual tranny, so I have not tried this. Read through the thread and see what you think : http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/68462-diy-full-flush-automatic-transmission.html

I have also read that there is some dissagreement about whether the tranny should actually be flushed, or just dumped and filled. The argument against flushing is that it can dislodge junk that has settled and should stay settled. That may have some validity if the tranny was not serviced for an extended period. Personally, I would flush it on a 30,000 mile schedule so junk never built up in the first place. I believe in frequent regular maintenance.

There are at least a couple of good sources of aluminum bumpers in addition to skids. I went with the ARB primarily for animal protection. I would think you would need that as well. A deer or antelope hit at speed will just trash a stock front end. ARBs are the best for animal protection IMO.
 

Clutch

<---Pass
There are at least a couple of good sources of aluminum bumpers in addition to skids. I went with the ARB primarily for animal protection. I would think you would need that as well. A deer or antelope hit at speed will just trash a stock front end. ARBs are the best for animal protection IMO.

TJM aluminum was my first choice, but I got such a screaming deal on my ARB so I went with that.

Would have to powder coat it a black or color code it so it wasn't so blingly...or at least ball burnish it.

070AP15C87I.3.jpg
 

downhill

Adventurer
TJM aluminum was my first choice, but I got such a screaming deal on my ARB so I went with that.

Would have to powder coat it a black or color code it so it wasn't so blingly...or at least ball burnish it.

View attachment 127189

Nice Kermit! where is a good US source for the TJM? Do they build a Gen II model? When I get rich I'd like to swap out all my steel for aluminum.
 
I had VMI offroad (Bellingham WA) fabricate my aluminum bumper. It weighed in @ 47 lbs. I have a Warn M12000 and synthetic line. Total weight of about 100 lbs with lights.
Bumper and sliders 016.JPG
 

Forum statistics

Threads
186,793
Messages
2,888,097
Members
227,280
Latest member
Smithmds77
Top