2013 canter 3c13 limp mode FIXED

[Stuartm]

I'm in Scotland & hoping to find some advice please .
I've got a canter 2013 3c13 which isn't very popular in Scotland , I used to own a 2004 canter which was great but I've had loads of problems with my current canter .
It's been in & out a garage for a few months & I think it may of been giving phantom codes saying parts are broke when there not .
Over time my Speedo has worked less & less .
When started the truck can go in to limp mode after a few minutes - 10 mins later , after 10 - 20 mins the truck usually drives ok & the Speedo will often work .
When it's idling the Speedo can move up & down to 10 mph sometimes .
Last week the truck stalled 7 times when driving it's never done that before .
Since then when I start it it stalls after a few seconds .
Yesterday it started & kept running after about 20 mins when it was warm I tried a parked regen & it stalled after a minute .
Before I'd originally gone to the garage it had stopped doing a regen - that's when I first went to a garage .
So far the truck has had a new egr , air mass flo sensor , dpf pressure sensor , turbo boost value , battery , fuel pressure valve , fuel filter .
I'm sorry for such a long post I'm at my wit's end as what to do next , I've spent loads at a garage which has turned out to be not great .
Thanks Stuart

 

[SkiFreak]

Anyone that knows anything about these trucks will tell you that one thing they can suffer from is bad earth connections.
If you have not already done so, you should undo and inspect all of the earthing points for corrosion. Just checking that they are tight is not really sufficient.

 

[Czechsix]

Have you tried doing a manual DPF burn out? By putting it in park (from what I recall), and rev it to 4k or so for a few minutes. I used to have to do that with my 2012 truck to clear the DPF. Not the exact model you have, but it was a U.S. spec Canter, basically.

 

[Stuartm]

Anyone that knows anything about these trucks will tell you that one thing they can suffer from is bad earth connections.
If you have not already done so, you should undo and inspect all of the earthing points for corrosion. Just checking that they are tight is not really sufficient.

 

[Stuartm]

I've only took all the earth's off & sanded the connections & put them back on , I'll take them all off & peal back the plastic a bit & see if the copper wire looks ok .
Thanks

 

[Stuartm]

Have you tried doing a manual DPF burn out? By putting it in park (from what I recall), and rev it to 4k or so for a few minutes. I used to have to do that with my 2012 truck to clear the DPF. Not the exact model you have, but it was a U.S. spec Canter, basically.

Hi , I normally do a parked regen every 10 days .
The last time i tried a regen the engine cut out after 1 minute , the problem has got worse & my truck pretty much won't idle anymore , I'll get a good look at the earth's
Thanks

 

[SkiFreak]

There is absolutely no doubt, finding the root cause of intermittent problem can be a real pain.
In my experience, the majority of these intermittent problems are caused by electrical/electronic connection issues, that is why I suggest starting with the earths.

Sadly, most vehicles these days are equipped with a computer that controls some, or a lot, of the vehicle's functions.
When they work they are brilliant, but if they go wrong... big problems and normally big money.

 

[Stuartm]

There is absolutely no doubt, finding the root cause of intermittent problem can be a real pain.
In my experience, the majority of these intermittent problems are caused by electrical/electronic connection issues, that is why I suggest starting with the earths.

Sadly, most vehicles these days are equipped with a computer that controls some, or a lot, of the vehicle's functions.
When they work they are brilliant, but if they go wrong... big problems and normally big money.

A bad earth makes sense , I think there's a good chance I've overlooked one or more by not checking them properly .
My windows go up quite slow which happend once before & that turned out to be a bad earth .
It is a great truck when it's going .
Thanks for your advice , I'm at my wit's end with it .
I'm going to look at the earth's again now .

 

[SkiFreak]

You could also put some conductive grease on the terminals. This would also help protect the connection from getting any corrosion.

 

[Stuartm]

You could also put some conductive grease on the terminals. This would also help protect the connection from getting any corrosion.

Ok thanks , I noticed a few days ago when it started I was getting 15.6v putter the meters ground on the engine , it seems a bit high to me

 

[Stuartm]

You could also put some conductive grease on the terminals. This would also help protect the connection from getting any corrosion.

I took the earth's off the front off the chassis & half of them are positive , between 8v - 10v that can't be right , I'm thinking there must be a broken positive wire somewhere

 

[SkiFreak]

The electrical system on a Canter is negative switched, which can give some unexpected readings, if you are not familiar with this type of wiring.

Something to remember... there is a difference between voltage and current.
You may be seeing voltage on the cable, but there will not be any current, that's why nothing blows up when you connect that cable to ground.
There are numerous situations where this can happen and yes, it is normal.

 

[Stuartm]

The electrical system on a Canter is negative switched, which can give some unexpected readings, if you are not familiar with this type of wiring.

Something to remember... there is a difference between voltage and current.
You may be seeing voltage on the cable, but there will not be any current, that's why nothing blows up when you connect that cable to ground.
There are numerous situations where this can happen and yes, it is normal.

Ok thanks , I'm totally baffled .
I was going to take the fuse box at the battery off again & check for any wires that may of broke - or been rubbing on something .
The the limp mode happened rarely & became more & more often over time .
Quite often if the Speedo was working then stopped working it would then go in to limp mode shortly after & in time if the Speedo started to work all of a sudden the truck would be running perfectly again .

 

[SkiFreak]

I am not an auto electrician or an electronics technician, but I would like to think that I have a reasonable grasp at fault finding basic electrical faults.
Do you have a workshop manual for your model of truck?
The parts that were replaced... was that done at a Fuso dealership? You mentioned a garage, so I am thinking maybe not.

After confirming that all of the ground connections are good I would also unclip the multi pin connector into the ECU. Be very careful with that plug, as you don't want bend any of the pins.
I doubt that there would be corrosion in that area, but it would not hurt to look. Reconnect the plug, ensuring that it is fully locked into position.

Have you retrieved any diagnostic error codes from the ECU?
Given the multitude of issues you are experiencing, it is unlikely this is just a single sensor that is playing up.
As far as I know, there is no way to fault find the actual ECU, unless you have access to dealer diagnostic tools. Just one of the joys of owning a computer controlled vehicle!

 

[Stuartm]

I am not an auto electrician or an electronics technician, but I would like to think that I have a reasonable grasp at fault finding basic electrical faults.
Do you have a workshop manual for your model of truck?
The parts that were replaced... was that done at a Fuso dealership? You mentioned a garage, so I am thinking maybe not.

After confirming that all of the ground connections are good I would also unclip the multi pin connector into the ECU. Be very careful with that plug, as you don't want bend any of the pins.
I doubt that there would be corrosion in that area, but it would not hurt to look. Reconnect the plug, ensuring that it is fully locked into position.

Have you retrieved any diagnostic error codes from the ECU?
Given the multitude of issues you are experiencing, it is unlikely this is just a single sensor that is playing up.
As far as I know, there is no way to fault find the actual ECU, unless you have access to dealer diagnostic tools. Just one of the joys of owning a computer controlled vehicle!

Hi all the parts that were changed were genuine parts at a independent garage who has star diagnostics .
All the pins at the ECU are ok as I've looked a few times .
I don't have a workshop manual for my truck .
You can get codes on its dash , I've been getting loads of random codes , one of the last codes was for high resistance at a injector if I mind right , one was for fuel pressure to high .