2015 Tacoma TRD Sport SB

[Uncle D]

I've found myself in a little bit of a dilemma. So, I bought a 2015 Toyota double cab TRD sport. 6 speed manual that's been lifted and has 35x12.5x20's on it. I drove it from Houston back to Phoenix and it obviously has some major power issues with the big tires. First question: Can anyone tell me how big the lift is? I don't have a picture of the spacers but its roughly 5 inches in the front and 4 in the back. Toyota Bilstein shocks on the front.
Second question: I know the 35's are a little too big for this truck. I priced a new set of Nitto Grapplers today in a 33 1/4 x 12 x 20 size. Is that enough to get the stock power back? Should I consider rehearing?
Lastly, on my drive back I could feel the front tires grabbing every line in the road. Would it improve with a steering stabilizer or would 10 in wide tires be a better solution?

I plan on using the truck as my daily driver. I'm also planning on buying one of the Finch FWC this Spring after the expo.

Any and all feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[brianjwilson]

Guess it's too late to return it huh?
Honestly the Tacoma front end is too light weight for 35s in my opinion. Even with 33s you'll feel some give in tie rod ends, bushings etc in normal driving. Having a subframe lift and spacers really isn't doing anything for you anyway. Usually the rear springs are retained with blocks and extra leafs so you aren't gaining any travel or ride quality improvements. The wide stance of the wheels is creating even more leverage against every weak factory bushing, ball joint, tie rod end and bearing.
My Tacoma has a mild "lift" with icon coilovers and upper control arms, rear springs and icon shocks, using TRD wheels (barely stick out more than stock wheels) with 255s and I get a little more pull than stock on freeway ruts. But it is minimal.
The only thing you have going for you is that the six speed is geared much lower than the automatic. But obviously you've learned that it is still very underpowered with the 35s. Just wait until you throw a camper on.

Honestly I would ditch the lift entirely if you're stuck with the truck. Try a mild lift (2" or so) with 33s and wheels that don't have such an aggressive offset. And tires in the 33" range max and you might like stock gearing.

You can of course re-gear (I did with 33s and a supercharger) but you'll still be facing the problem of having a cheap crappy lift and wheels. Take the stupid bar off of the front, steps on the side and gain another 4" of clearance on the body.

 

[brianjwilson]

So just a couple extra thoughts. Compare truck A (2" lift with 33" tires) to truck B (6" subframe lift with 35" tires, steps, bull bar).

Truck B has 1" additional clearance under rear axle.
Truck B has 5" additional clearance under frame and rear hitch.

Truck A has 1" additional clearance under front subframe.
Truck A's bed height is 4" lower. Lots of camper weight and wind drag up there.
Both truck would have very similar clearance up front and on the side, if truck A had no steps or bull bar.
Truck A weighs less.
Truck A brakes better with smaller tires without additional brackets.
Truck A doesn't require stupid aggressive offset wheels to clear extra brackets and stuff.
Truck A accelerates better with smaller tires.
Truck A handles better with lower center of gravity and less unspring weight.
Truck A is easier to get into camper.
Truck A is damn near as competent off road in most every situation, more so in off camper situations. definitely more so if using longer travel shocks (instead of spacers like your front end uses).

So yeah you see where I'm going. I hate spacers but I would rather with a TRD and use 2" spacers up front, stock wheels and 255/85r16s or similar rather than a big lift for carrying the camper. A good, reasonably priced setup would be old man emu shocks/springs up front for 2" lift, ome Dakar springs in back, air bags or timbrens, less aggressive and less wide wheels/tires.

Hope that helps to some extent.

Personally I chose a Tacoma to carry my campe because I didn't want something super tall. So I went with minimal lift, tall/skinny tires, gears, lockers etc. Comfortable all around, fits in the garage, plenty capable off road.

 

[Uncle D]

Thanks for the feedback. Ya, I'm stuck with it for sure. It could be worse....I was planning on changing some things anyway.

I'm not super familiar with lifting anything. I've mostly owned stock trucks and just drove them as is. If I take out the spacers in the front and back, would I need to do anything else? Obviously ditch the 35's. I see stock TRD wheels and tires all over Craigslist. I would consider just buying a new set of those and removing the blocks if its that easy. I'm not sure what the cost of adding and old man emu would be. I think that 33's that are around 10 inches wide would look just fine. Skinnier would most likely be better. I don't suppose you have a picture of yours with the specs?

Again, I really appreciate the feedback.

 

[brianjwilson]

Well the problem is, it isn't as simple as removing a few parts. To install the drop bracket lifts, the normal front differential mounts are cut off to install the brackets. So they will have to be welded/fabricated I believe. You'll need stock 4x4 spindles/knuckles. You'll need shorter rear shocks. The rear lift is probably a tall block, which can be removed, but you'll need new u bolts again.

I've never removed one of these personally but if you look at the Tacoma world forums (I hate referring people there), some people have done it and may be able to offer some hints.

If you really decide to remove it, I think the best bet is to find someone with a stock truck who wants the lift and swap some parts over, but it's still going to be time consuming and require some welding I believe.

Before you go through all that, have you re-torqued all of the hardware and steering components up front? Had the truck realigned, possibly with a little more toe in? Adjusted tire pressure?

I wouldn't want the lift myself but others here have had 6" lifts on tacomas with campers on them.

 

[Dances with Wolves]

Just curious how/why you ended up with this brodozer. It's seems like it would have been easier/better/less expensive to find a stock truck you like and build it up rather than buying this truck, tearing it down and redoing it.

 

[Uncle D]

That's a great question Jerry.....I'm kinda kicking myself right now. I liked the color, model and 6 speed tranny. Plus, I'm not a big fan of the new body style. This thing was practically brand new so I figured I would tweek it anyway. So....it might cost a tad more to undo. The more I'm looking around, it sounds like an old man emu 3" would do the trick along with some 285/70/17's. I'm probably going to buy the wheels and tires right away and get some of the stock power back. Then....I'll go to work on the suspension. I'm planning on new front and rear ARB bumpers with a winch mount. So, I'll need to consider all weight prior to making the suspension improvement.

 

[Dances with Wolves]

Ok, I get it. Save all your take off parts and sell them to fund your new parts. If you don't have an account on Tacomaworld, I'd get one. There's a ton of info there, but the search function leaves a lot to be desired. I search in google then go through the Tacomaworld results. It's faster and easier to drill down to exactly what your looking for. It would also be a good place to sell your take off parts.

I wish you the best in your build.

 

[1 Bored Clerk]

Regearing should help the power issue. 4.56 or 4.88 gear ratios are in the right ballpark and easy to source. I run 4.56 on my truck with 33.5" tires and some armor (weight) and I like it. If you stay with 34-35" tires and plan on a RTT or pop up, you may prefer 4.88.


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[Plannerman]

Can you take a picture of the front of the truck? It looks like it probably has a drop bracket, but I can't tell for sure. If it does not, changing it will be much easier.

 

[utroda]

Idk as far as tacomas but on the tundras when you have a larger lift like what you currently have, you have to cut the crossmember and weld in a sub frame. I would look and see if you can even remove the current lift you have on, and what that would do if you went to a smaller one before you purchase.

heres fabtech 6" lift instructions where you cut and weld - http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/files/FT26026i.pdf
heres bds 6" lift instructions where you cut and bolt on - http://bds-suspension.com/instructions/028601.pdf

based on the instructions above that would be a major pain in the *** to remove.

 

[bkg]

Smaller tires would look silly. Reworking entire suspension will be expensive unless you have all of the stock parts. Regear to 4.88's or sell the truck and buy a stocker.

 

[Uncle D]

Great feedback guys. I appreciate all of it. I took the truck up to Prescott this weekend and had the guys at AT Overland take a look at it. The two mechanics that do all the lifts said the it was done quite well. I was more interested in finding out what I'd need to do to fit a FWC on the back. So far, the only for sure upgrade is a new set of heavy duty leaf springs for the back. Im planning on putting on some 285/70/17 wheels and tires to get some of the stock power back. I'll evaluate what the lift looks like with the smaller tires. If necessary, we can take the spacer out of the front and remove an inch or two (according to them). So, overall it looks like I'm in better shape than I initially thought. I'll get the wheels and tires ordered and post some pics back. Also talked to the guys about the new FWC. A swift is the only size that'll currently fit in the bed. I'm considering removing the bed, installing a flatbed, and then buying a fleet flatbed. I haven't saw anyone with one as of yet. They're checking on the logistics of this as well. Pics coming as soon as I can find a place to get new wheels/tires. Thanks again for the feedback.

 

[bkg]

I hate to sound disrespectful... Though it is a skill... Going to ~32's with 6" lift will look, and work, horrible. You're talking about installing tires that will fit w/o lift on a truck with 6" of lift... I predict years of band aids ahead. Either embrace the lift and work with it.. or sell the truck.

 

[brianjwilson]

A fleet flatbed is some 90" long. Not a good idea with the short wheel base of the 5' bed.