2016 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71
- Thread starter D45
- Start date
So the Trail Boss uses a 2" rear block and my truck has a 1-1/4" rear block...…..I thought it would be more than a 3/4" difference in height!
I will be using a 2.5" block with my lift, netting a 1-1/4" lift (over stock)
I likely wont even waste time or money on some Trail Boss take off Ranchos...….those shocks never impressed me
I will be using a 2.5" block with my lift, netting a 1-1/4" lift (over stock)
I likely wont even waste time or money on some Trail Boss take off Ranchos...….those shocks never impressed me
Now I am wondering what size rear blocks!
I DO NOT want the truck level, but rather a 1" rake or so...…….2", 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" rear blocks
2" blocks will yield a 3/4" rear lift
2-1/4" blocks will yield a 1" rear lift
2-1/2" blocks will yield a 1-1/4" rear lift
Here are some numbers (full 26 gallon tank of fuel):
Measurements with cap installed:
Driver Front: 36.250”
Passenger Front: 35.875”
Driver Rear: 37.875”
Passenger Rear: 38.125”
So the factory rake has the rear setting about 1.620" / 2.250" taller (depending on the side)
Front with 2.5” Spacers:
Driver Front: 38.750”
Passenger Front: 38.375”
Rear with 2.0” Blocks (3/4” Lift):
Driver Rear: 39.875”……………….…1-1/8” taller than front
Passenger Rear: 40.125”…………..1-3/4” taller than front
Rear with 2.25" Blocks (1" lift):
Driver Rear: 40.375"...……………….2-1/4" taller than front
Passenger Rear: 40.375"......……..2-1/4" taller than front
Rear with 2.5” Blocks (1-1/4” lift):
Driver Rear: 40.375”…………………..2-1/2” taller than front
Passenger Rear: 40.625”…………….2-1/2” taller than front
I DO NOT want the truck level, but rather a 1" rake or so...…….2", 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" rear blocks
2" blocks will yield a 3/4" rear lift
2-1/4" blocks will yield a 1" rear lift
2-1/2" blocks will yield a 1-1/4" rear lift
Here are some numbers (full 26 gallon tank of fuel):
Measurements with cap installed:
Driver Front: 36.250”
Passenger Front: 35.875”
Driver Rear: 37.875”
Passenger Rear: 38.125”
So the factory rake has the rear setting about 1.620" / 2.250" taller (depending on the side)
Front with 2.5” Spacers:
Driver Front: 38.750”
Passenger Front: 38.375”
Rear with 2.0” Blocks (3/4” Lift):
Driver Rear: 39.875”……………….…1-1/8” taller than front
Passenger Rear: 40.125”…………..1-3/4” taller than front
Rear with 2.25" Blocks (1" lift):
Driver Rear: 40.375"...……………….2-1/4" taller than front
Passenger Rear: 40.375"......……..2-1/4" taller than front
Rear with 2.5” Blocks (1-1/4” lift):
Driver Rear: 40.375”…………………..2-1/2” taller than front
Passenger Rear: 40.625”…………….2-1/2” taller than front
I need to do much more research and likely spend more money
My truck has the factory stamped steel upper control arms
I have read stories about the ball joint becoming un-seated from the stamped steel control arms...…..and I obviously do not want this to happen.
Who makes UCA that will allow me to run my factory 18" wheels?
My truck has the factory stamped steel upper control arms
I have read stories about the ball joint becoming un-seated from the stamped steel control arms...…..and I obviously do not want this to happen.
Who makes UCA that will allow me to run my factory 18" wheels?
MichaelK10
Member
I like my cognitos a lot on my GMT800.
Yes- at least on the GMT800- the balljoint is off the shelf and bolt in. Nice to be able to replace it in the field if every necessary.
I also highly recommend airbags. I used to have sumo inserts but found that on the larger lifted springs- it started bending the spring the wrong way.
I went to air bags(the in coil ones) and haven't looked back. It's awesome being able to adjust te rear end to what I'm carrying. Over 20k miles- many of them off road and high articulation and no leaks or anything. I didn't add air for ~6-8 months and they lost maybe a few psi.
Yes- at least on the GMT800- the balljoint is off the shelf and bolt in. Nice to be able to replace it in the field if every necessary.
I also highly recommend airbags. I used to have sumo inserts but found that on the larger lifted springs- it started bending the spring the wrong way.
I went to air bags(the in coil ones) and haven't looked back. It's awesome being able to adjust te rear end to what I'm carrying. Over 20k miles- many of them off road and high articulation and no leaks or anything. I didn't add air for ~6-8 months and they lost maybe a few psi.
MichaelK10
Member
Not the standard replacement balljoint arm- maybe if you're looking at the uniball?
There's a difference in the knuckles depending which type factory arm you have (stamped vs steel vs aluminum), the Cognito arms I got for my aluminum arm truck bolted right in without having to ream the knuckles.
Cognito Ball Joint SM Series Upper Control Arm Kit For 14-18 Silverado/Sierra 1500
Details:Polyurethane bushingsCorrected ball joint angleAdded casterCNC robot weldedSemi gloss black powder coatingMade in the USAFits: 14-18 Chevrolet and GMC 1500 2WD/4WD trucks and SUVs
cognitomotorsports.com
The install link in pdf is towards the bottom
I have to ream out the taper and also have to do some cutting and notching
MichaelK10
Member
Cognito Ball Joint SM Series Upper Control Arm Kit For 14-18 Silverado/Sierra 1500
Details:Polyurethane bushingsCorrected ball joint angleAdded casterCNC robot weldedSemi gloss black powder coatingMade in the USAFits: 14-18 Chevrolet and GMC 1500 2WD/4WD trucks and SUVs
The install link in pdf is towards the bottom
I have to ream out the taper and also have to do some cutting and notching
Bummer. A mechanic I know says the balljoint shaft for the steel arms is just a hair thinner than on the balljoints they use with the aluminum arms- thanks GM... Maybe the Cognito arms fit both applications, just in your case it requires the reaming of the knuckle?