2016 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71
- Thread starter D45
- Start date
So the Silverado bed has the plastic top bed rail caps
The front of the bed, the bulkhead area, is just covered with the factory spray on bedliner.......so there's a decent sized gap in height differences
When in installing a cap, how are people or installers filling in this gap?
Is there a plastic too bed rail trim piece available to install before a cap is set down?
The front of the bed, the bulkhead area, is just covered with the factory spray on bedliner.......so there's a decent sized gap in height differences
When in installing a cap, how are people or installers filling in this gap?
Is there a plastic too bed rail trim piece available to install before a cap is set down?
buellconvert
Active member
I also had to fashion a gap filler from a foam strip when I installed my tonneau cover...this is what I used, mine isn't that brand of cover, but for the price you can't go wrong and it's been working great for me
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Sent from my moto e6 using Tapatalk
Last edited:
buellconvert
Active member
I did buy the Ranch cap for $600
Front sliding window, side vented sliding windows, and frameless rear window
It has an LED third brake light and a battery powered LED light inside.
I need to order a roll of gasket sealing material before I reinstall the cap. There was an extremely thin strip already installed.......that I removed. It was only 1" wide and wasn't event 1/8" thick
The only odd thing about the cap, in my opinion, is the handle or knob on the front sliding window. The handle is on the outside of the window.........normal or not?
Front sliding window, side vented sliding windows, and frameless rear window
It has an LED third brake light and a battery powered LED light inside.
I need to order a roll of gasket sealing material before I reinstall the cap. There was an extremely thin strip already installed.......that I removed. It was only 1" wide and wasn't event 1/8" thick
The only odd thing about the cap, in my opinion, is the handle or knob on the front sliding window. The handle is on the outside of the window.........normal or not?
The cap is currently off the truck and hanging by ratchet straps in my garage
I ordered a front bulkhead gap sealer strip , made from EPDM for $20
I also ordered two nice rolls of EPDM gasket material for sealing the cap to the bed. One roll is flat and the other roll has two bulbs for compression. They were $60 for both.
I also ordered another adhesive handle for the inside of the front sliding window.
Hopefully everything will be delivered by Monday and I can install the cap permanently mid week.
The cap came with 6 clamps which is nice and solid for a bed under 6 feet. I have seen some 6.5' caps held down by 4 clamps.
I also need to run some power wire from the battery to a 3 hole outlet accessory box that I took off my old truck
Then also install the GM bed tie down hooks and see if I need addtional LED lighting for inside the bed, which is likely
I ordered a front bulkhead gap sealer strip , made from EPDM for $20
I also ordered two nice rolls of EPDM gasket material for sealing the cap to the bed. One roll is flat and the other roll has two bulbs for compression. They were $60 for both.
I also ordered another adhesive handle for the inside of the front sliding window.
Hopefully everything will be delivered by Monday and I can install the cap permanently mid week.
The cap came with 6 clamps which is nice and solid for a bed under 6 feet. I have seen some 6.5' caps held down by 4 clamps.
I also need to run some power wire from the battery to a 3 hole outlet accessory box that I took off my old truck
Then also install the GM bed tie down hooks and see if I need addtional LED lighting for inside the bed, which is likely
I was thinking about ball joint angles and CV axle angles with lift kits
I ran across Zone Offroad's #ZONC9158 body lift kit for my truck. It's a 1.5" lift for $185 shipped
I could then get a 2" or 2.5" leveling kit and taller rear blocks for $150 shipped.
Both will give me still really good cv axle and ball joint angles and a 3.5" overall lift for under $350
I need to install the cap first to see the how much the bed sags and meadure front and rear fender height differences
I ran across Zone Offroad's #ZONC9158 body lift kit for my truck. It's a 1.5" lift for $185 shipped
I could then get a 2" or 2.5" leveling kit and taller rear blocks for $150 shipped.
Both will give me still really good cv axle and ball joint angles and a 3.5" overall lift for under $350
I need to install the cap first to see the how much the bed sags and meadure front and rear fender height differences
Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
Normal. Think about it, if you want to open the sliding window between the pickup cab and the shell, you would likely be inside the truck reaching backwards (through the truck slider) rather than being in the bed of the truck and reaching forward.
It does mean that if you don't have a sliding or opening rear window on your truck you can't open the sliding window on the shell, but why would you want to?