2020 Overland Explorer Vehicles (OEV) CAMP-X pop-up slide-in pickup camper (renamed "Back Country" as of 2023)

[HI-TEST]

I am still scared to stick industrial velcro on the composit walls! Interseted to see solutions.

Thinking about a set of LoftLockers as a way to address the lack of storage in the Camp-X. However, I'm not sure how I'd mount it to the ceiling.
L-Track would be amazing, if there is a glue strong enough. Otherwise I'd have to through bolt it, which has it's own issues.

LoftLockers for Van Storage

LoftLockers hang duffels as soft cabinets for vanlife. Create overhead storage, upper cabinets, or under-bed storage in your van. Sprinter, Transit, ProMaster.

aspenfrontiers.com

Does anyone have any thought/solutions

 

[rwalk]

OEV just recently announced that this is coming soon, in the comments they say it is installed with adhesive.

 

[Chadx]

Slick idea. Their 'automotive adhesives' are no doubt up to the task of adhering and supporting a fair bit of weight. Couple concerns with this image are sink faucet proximity (don't forget to turn that faucet sideways before lowering the top!) and clearance for the soft top walls as they fold in.

Likely they say only for autolift roofs due to weight (cabinets + contents) and that the roof stays flat while opening and closing with actuators rather than going fairly angled for manual opening. But I'm sure some outlaw will install one on their manual lift camper. Anxious to hear how that impacts manual lift effort.

 

[ITTOG]

I had planned to do that on my homebuilt. I will have to investigate if I can just buy theirs instead of building my own.

 

[Transit720]

I'm guessing the adhesive is Sikaflex 221, which Eric @ OEV told me they use for general "mounting".

Otherwise, probably VHB tape. FWIW, the shower curtain hanger in my HBE (above the dinette) was installed with what appears to be a strip of VHB, and the bond is beginning to fail, but that might be a fluke.

Cabinet looks cool, but make sure your sink spout is tucked down, and I share the concerns about weight. As a point of reference, the removable floor covering over my HBE shower pan is made of Delrin (as far as I can tell), and it weighs more than 15lb, though it's only roughly 2' x 2' ! Wish they'd made it from carbon fiber or something lighter weight.

 

[rwalk]

Slick idea. Their 'automotive adhesives' are no doubt up to the task of adhering and supporting a fair bit of weight. Couple concerns with this image are sink faucet proximity (don't forget to turn that faucet sideways before lowering the top!) and clearance for the soft top walls as they fold in.

Likely they say only for autolift roofs due to weight (cabinets + contents) and that the roof stays flat while opening and closing with actuators rather than going fairly angled for manual opening. But I'm sure some outlaw will install one on their manual lift camper. Anxious to hear how that impacts manual lift effort.

They did respond to a comment noting that it can be used on the manual top campers as long as weight is watched more carefully. Unless they turn out to be ridiculously expensive, I'll likely add one to my Camp-X. Extra storage space would be very nice, even if just for lighter items. My faucet, like most, stows into the sink for travel, so I would never run into an unfortunate issue there, and hopefully my wrap-around bungee for the soft top will keep it tucked in properly around the cabinet.

Before I found my OEV I was heavily considering ordering a Hallmark, they have a lot of overhead storage on their pop up models.

 

[tacollie]

I like that they are offering it. We've been toying with adding a smaller cabinet in that area. Seeing OEV offers it makes me feel like it's not such a bad idea.

 

[Transit720]

I like that they are offering it. We've been toying with adding a smaller cabinet in that area. Seeing OEV offers it makes me feel like it's not such a bad idea.

agreed. I'm excited to see specs on it.

Another option is SeaSucker vacuum mounts: https://www.seasucker.com/collections/vacuum-mounts

These are pretty heavy duty and require no drilling, adhesive, or other permanent installation. I could see using them to attach various things to OEV ceiling or sides. I found the below photo on SeaSucker website. From the looks of the camper interior, it actually looks like it might be installed in an OEV.(?)

 

[Ninelitetrip]

For anyone that has the 200W solar panel. Any idea who the manufacturer is? Model number?

I believe the current dimension on these is 22.5 x 55.5 x ?

Anyone seen information that the newer 200W installs use a bi facial panel?

 

[Transit720]

For anyone that has the 200W solar panel. Any idea who the manufacturer is? Model number?

I believe the current dimension on these is 22.5 x 55.5 x ?

Anyone seen information that the newer 200W installs use a bi facial panel?

Not 100% certain, but I believe they use Canadian Energy

www.cdnrg.com


This appears to be the current CDNRG 200W model, not sure if it's the same one I've got on the roof of my Hudson Bay:

CP200M-36

www.cdnrg.com

This may be the same panel, rebranded as "GoPower Solar"

200 watt Solar Module (GP-PV-200M)

NEW! Our largest aluminum framed solar panel. Available in our most popular rooftop kits and systems, and part of the Solar on Board pre-install program.

gopowersolar.com

 

[Ninelitetrip]

Not 100% certain, but I believe they use Canadian Energy

www.cdnrg.com


This appears to be the current CDNRG 200W model, not sure if it's the same one I've got on the roof of my Hudson Bay:

CP200M-36

www.cdnrg.com

This may be the same panel, rebranded as "GoPower Solar"

200 watt Solar Module (GP-PV-200M)

NEW! Our largest aluminum framed solar panel. Available in our most popular rooftop kits and systems, and part of the Solar on Board pre-install program.

gopowersolar.com

Thanks for the reply. Not sure because the dimensions are different.

 

[okto]

What is your dealer telling you?

Bought used and the supporting dealer changed hands.

In fairness, I sent an email to OEV and they checked to see if they had any replacement parts, no dice.

I actually got a reply from the Chinese manufacturer.

Sent them some pics, we’ll see, I’ll post results.

 

[Crux]

I've been having issues with my built-in Dometic CRX65 fridge in my Camp-X.
The interior lights occasionally flicker and the compressor turns on/off like its losing power.

I thought it was the fridge going bad, but looking underneath I noticed the white wire (negative) looked shorted.
Pulling on the wires that go up into the fridge cabinet from the battery box area would sometimes kick the power to the fridge and compressor back on.

I had to cut the wires to get the fridge out - there is zero slack

After pulling the fridge, I noticed the black wire (negative) going into the fridge had a blackened connector.
I also noticed the 15amp fridge fuse was blown in the fuse block...but somehow the fridge still worked?

Black wire (spliced to white scorched wire in Camp-x) going into back of fridge with fried connector:







Scorch marks on white (negative) wire. This white wire and the black (positive) wire were feed up through the rubber grommet in the bottom of the fridge housing until I cut the wires.


I plan to replace the wire and connector, but have a few questions, especially since I know very little about electrical systems:

1. What would cause this kind of short?
2. Do I need to fix/look at anything else other than replacing the bad wires?
3. Why would the fridge still work (off and on) when the 15amp fridge fuse was blown?
4. The dometic OEM fridge wires look really small (maybe 14-16 AWG). Should I replace the OEM dometic wire with 10 AWG (like the Camp-X used)?
5. If I do replace the wire with 10 AWG, should I keep the 15amp fuse, or replace with a 30amp fuse?


Thanks in advance

 

[Chadx]

I've been having issues with my built-in Dometic CRX65 fridge in my Camp-X.
The interior lights occasionally flicker and the compressor turns on/off like its losing power.

I thought it was the fridge going bad, but looking underneath I noticed the white wire (negative) looked shorted.
Pulling on the wires that go up into the fridge cabinet from the battery box area would sometimes kick the power to the fridge and compressor back on.

I had to cut the wires to get the fridge out - there is zero slack

After pulling the fridge, I noticed the black wire (negative) going into the fridge had a blackened connector.
I also noticed the 15amp fridge fuse was blown in the fuse block...but somehow the fridge still worked?

Black wire (spliced to white scorched wire in Camp-x) going into back of fridge with fried connector:
View attachment 855441


View attachment 855442

View attachment 855443

Scorch marks on white (negative) wire. This white wire and the black (positive) wire were feed up through the rubber grommet in the bottom of the fridge housing until I cut the wires.
View attachment 855444

I plan to replace the wire and connector, but have a few questions, especially since I know very little about electrical systems:

1. What would cause this kind of short?
2. Do I need to fix/look at anything else other than replacing the bad wires?
3. Why would the fridge still work (off and on) when the 15amp fridge fuse was blown?
4. The dometic OEM fridge wires look really small (maybe 14-16 AWG). Should I replace the OEM dometic wire with 10 AWG (like the Camp-X used)?
5. If I do replace the wire with 10 AWG, should I keep the 15amp fuse, or replace with a 30amp fuse?


Thanks in advance

Hi @Crux
Typically a scorched connector means a problem with the female connector's contact to the male tab. The connector could have been malformed and too loose or perhaps bent during install and didn't make adequate contact with the tab.
The fridge still working with a blown fuse is the troubling part. I believe these fridges only have one pair of inbound conductors and all fridge load (compressor, light) draw from there. Something could be mislabeled (the fuse block). Or the fuse blew after the last time your fridge had power. Test both sides (positive probe of a multimeter) of the fuse block (and negative probe grounded, of course) and see where you have power. Repeat both with and without a working fuse in place. Of those four scenarios, you'll have 12v power before the fuse now matter what. You'll only have power after the fuse if a good fuse is in place. If you have power after the fuse slot with a blown fuse or no fuse, something is dangerously wrong with that fuse block and needs further investigation and likely replacement of the fuse block.

You may want to temporarily wire up the fridge without re-installing just to ensure it functions properly before you go through the trouble of permanently wiring and reinstalling.

Review the Dometic owner's manual for your specific fridge. It will say max load of the fridge and so will the fridge label inside the fridge. You'll be able to figure out the appropriate conductor size for the load and conductor length (the length of the loop, positive and negative, from the fuse block to the fridge, which is likely rather short). These don't draw much. Probably only a max of 3 or 4 amps on 12v. Maybe 5amps on startup. Conductor size can be fairly small and still be adequate and there is no value in wiring in larger-than-needed conductors.

A fuse needs to be sized to protect the smallest gauge wire in the entire run. Don't upsize the fuse as you are not changing the wiring inside the fridge housing and upsizing the fuse may mean your fuse will take higher amps than some wire somewhere in the path.

 

[Trail Talk]

For anyone that has the 200W solar panel. Any idea who the manufacturer is? Model number?

I believe the current dimension on these is 22.5 x 55.5 x ?

Anyone seen information that the newer 200W installs use a bi facial panel?

We recently had OEV replace our original 170W panels with their latest 220W bifacials.