2020 Overland Explorer Vehicles (OEV) CAMP-X pop-up slide-in pickup camper (renamed "Back Country" as of 2023)
- Thread starter Chadx
- Start date
Someone previously posted a link to a dimmer switch they used to replace the toggle switch. That would allow for dimming the overhead LED domes. I find the placement of the domes odd. Logical because of conduit path constraints, but odd. Wish they were 1' long strip LED rather than domes and more of them as to be better task lighting. Would like one over the sink/stovetop and one over the dinette and one or two over the bed in cabover. But the composite ceiling makes it a bit tough because the conduit would run all over the place compared to wiring being hidden in a aluminum-framed roof.
We ended up running a string of warm white LED around the outer edge of the roof (holding them up with the 3M removable sticky hook things) and plug it into the USB port. Since USB powered, it's only 5v and so not very bright. Makes for a nice visiting light. Not quite bright enough for chores.
Long term, I'd like to use some of the much brighter 12v LED string lights, but rather than them aiming directly down, would like to use some of the small white C channel affixed to the roof facing the soft top maybe 4 -6" from the edge. That would have the LED facing the soft top and then all the light from would be reflected, indirect lighting. Just haven't implemented yet because the "easy route" of the USB string has been a reasonably good.
We ended up running a string of warm white LED around the outer edge of the roof (holding them up with the 3M removable sticky hook things) and plug it into the USB port. Since USB powered, it's only 5v and so not very bright. Makes for a nice visiting light. Not quite bright enough for chores.
Long term, I'd like to use some of the much brighter 12v LED string lights, but rather than them aiming directly down, would like to use some of the small white C channel affixed to the roof facing the soft top maybe 4 -6" from the edge. That would have the LED facing the soft top and then all the light from would be reflected, indirect lighting. Just haven't implemented yet because the "easy route" of the USB string has been a reasonably good.
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Thanks as always Chad! Can you send a link or even just show those usb lights you have as they sound perfect. Ive not come across any usb plug in lights yet then again Im not in stores often as I’m finding I just head to the grocery store (Moab currently) and then back to off the grid camping QUOTE="chadx, post: 2978690, member: 121409"]
Someone previously posted a link to a dimmer switch they used to replace the toggle switch. That would allow for dimming the overhead LED domes. I find the placement of the domes odd. Logical because of conduit path constraints, but odd. Wish they were 1' long strip LED rather than domes and more of them as to be better task lighting. Would like one over the sink/stovetop and one over the dinette and one or two over the bed in cabover. But the composite ceiling makes it a bit tough because the conduit would run all over the place compared to wiring being hidden in a aluminum-framed roof.
We ended up running a string of warm white LED around the outer edge of the roof (holding them up with the 3M removable sticky hook things) and plug it into the USB port. Since USB powered, it's only 5v and so not very bright. Makes for a nice visiting light. Not quite bright enough for chores.
Long term, I'd like to use some of the much brighter 12v LED string lights, but rather than them aiming directly down, would like to use some of the small white C channel affixed to the roof facing the soft top maybe 4 -6" from the edge. That would have the LED facing the soft top and then all the light from would be reflected, indirect lighting. Just haven't implemented yet because the "easy route" of the USB string has been a reasonably good.
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Someone previously posted a link to a dimmer switch they used to replace the toggle switch. That would allow for dimming the overhead LED domes. I find the placement of the domes odd. Logical because of conduit path constraints, but odd. Wish they were 1' long strip LED rather than domes and more of them as to be better task lighting. Would like one over the sink/stovetop and one over the dinette and one or two over the bed in cabover. But the composite ceiling makes it a bit tough because the conduit would run all over the place compared to wiring being hidden in a aluminum-framed roof.
We ended up running a string of warm white LED around the outer edge of the roof (holding them up with the 3M removable sticky hook things) and plug it into the USB port. Since USB powered, it's only 5v and so not very bright. Makes for a nice visiting light. Not quite bright enough for chores.
Long term, I'd like to use some of the much brighter 12v LED string lights, but rather than them aiming directly down, would like to use some of the small white C channel affixed to the roof facing the soft top maybe 4 -6" from the edge. That would have the LED facing the soft top and then all the light from would be reflected, indirect lighting. Just haven't implemented yet because the "easy route" of the USB string has been a reasonably good.
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These are the USB lights that I used and the 3M tabs (no affiliation with either and no rewards for using these links). There are other sources for similar. These are just the ones we used. I planned a bit before hanging them. Determined where they would start (by the usb on the switch panel) and where I wanted them to end. The 33foot string is just about right. Ended up running them from the USB outlet, up the back wall (looped through the CAMP-X loom that runs down the back wall/soft-top), then went to the drivers rear corner, forward to just behind the front vent, across to the passenger side, then rearward, then over and ended right by the rear soft-top folding bracket. Will dig up an image and post. I used quite a few of the command strip hooks because I wanted them taught and not hangy/sloppy. The hooks are white and very small so they don't stand out. I prepped the surface with an alcohol wipe, pressed them on and held for 15 - 30 seconds each and they are stuck VERY well. Did end up snagging the lights and snapping the clip off one. Just removed it, prepped, and stuck on a new one.
At first, I thought the string lights would be kind of cheesy, but wanted an even, dim, warm light for hanging out at night. I liked the light they gave off from day one and grew used to "the look". Ha. As I recall, they draw so little the REDARC wouldn't give a consistent reading so I'm thinking it was less than 1amp. An interesting observation; The gel coat on the ceiling panel reflects the lights when they are on so at a glance, it looks like there are two strings of lights on rather than one.
(If nothing shows up below, your browser may have a blocker of outside links. )
USB Mini LED string Lights: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W9K6VZK
Amazon product ASIN B07W9K6VZK
3M Command Strip hooks: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M3YGHS
Amazon product ASIN B000M3YGHS
At first, I thought the string lights would be kind of cheesy, but wanted an even, dim, warm light for hanging out at night. I liked the light they gave off from day one and grew used to "the look". Ha. As I recall, they draw so little the REDARC wouldn't give a consistent reading so I'm thinking it was less than 1amp. An interesting observation; The gel coat on the ceiling panel reflects the lights when they are on so at a glance, it looks like there are two strings of lights on rather than one.
(If nothing shows up below, your browser may have a blocker of outside links. )
USB Mini LED string Lights: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W9K6VZK
Amazon product ASIN B07W9K6VZK
3M Command Strip hooks: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M3YGHS
Amazon product ASIN B000M3YGHS
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Dug back to older posts and here is one from "Ontheroad22" with string lights, though this example goes all the way around the front, mine primarily run around the rear and behind the front vent as we wanted the light in the living space rather than cabover, but this gives you an idea of how it looks. https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...-in-pickup-camper.214329/page-11#post-2853299
Here is the post by "CrystalClear" regarding the dimmer switch for the LED dome lights: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...-in-pickup-camper.214329/page-12#post-2865061
A couple posts later, he mentions more about the mod and linked to the dimmer used (the first one I link to below).
I looked up and saved a couple examples way back when (again, no affiliation or points and just some examples):
Dimmer: www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y2XC225
Dimmer: www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZHYFMMT
Dimmer: www.amazon.com/dp/B085TK13SH
Here is the post by "CrystalClear" regarding the dimmer switch for the LED dome lights: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...-in-pickup-camper.214329/page-12#post-2865061
A couple posts later, he mentions more about the mod and linked to the dimmer used (the first one I link to below).
I looked up and saved a couple examples way back when (again, no affiliation or points and just some examples):
Dimmer: www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y2XC225
Dimmer: www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZHYFMMT
Dimmer: www.amazon.com/dp/B085TK13SH
Ninelitetrip
Well-known member
Two changes for 2022.
New roof extrusion with T slot which changes the way the solar panels are installed. I like that change.
2 clear white external lights and an amber light at the rear entrance.
New roof extrusion with T slot which changes the way the solar panels are installed. I like that change.
2 clear white external lights and an amber light at the rear entrance.
I'd watched that a while ago and so didnt re-watch, but I recall thinking the T slots will be handy for feeding in tarp tie downs on various sides of the camper. We prefer doing that over having an awning since awnings never seem to be in the correct spot as the sun moves througout the day.
Besides the outer solar panel brackets fitting into those T slots, the roof racks will also utilize them.
The three external lights each have their own switch (not sure of location) but likely on the control panel now that 12v and USB are moved off there.
A previous change, but the REDARC is now in a box on the countertop rather than hidden in the cabinet of the water tank.
The only two things I recall not liking are the usb ports moving off the control panel (they were handy there when sitting at the dinette) and the dinette floor now being aluminum, rather than honeycomb, flooring. Aluminum, since thinner, will make for a larger underfloor storage space but be very cold on the feet. Guessing a rug/carpet (for insulation) and slippers will be essential on the aluminum material.
Besides the outer solar panel brackets fitting into those T slots, the roof racks will also utilize them.
The three external lights each have their own switch (not sure of location) but likely on the control panel now that 12v and USB are moved off there.
A previous change, but the REDARC is now in a box on the countertop rather than hidden in the cabinet of the water tank.
The only two things I recall not liking are the usb ports moving off the control panel (they were handy there when sitting at the dinette) and the dinette floor now being aluminum, rather than honeycomb, flooring. Aluminum, since thinner, will make for a larger underfloor storage space but be very cold on the feet. Guessing a rug/carpet (for insulation) and slippers will be essential on the aluminum material.
I put a rocket box on the camp-x and with no gear it's still pretty heavy to lift. I put the box in the rear, opposite the solar panel. Do you think this is the best spot? Also, are there better struts I could use to help? I have a 2021 Camp-X. Also, it doesn't take much snow to make the roof impossible to lift. Any tips for help lifting the roof in winter is appreciated. Overall, the camper performs well in the winter and I have a lot of experience ski camping out of campers and trailers.
Herbie
Rendezvous Conspirator
The way the leverage on the gas springs work - the first few inches of lift they give almost no help. (Because they're lifting on the hypotenuse of the triangle with basically zero height, so the force has almost zero "up" vector.) The net effect of this means that even with heavier struts (springs), you alone will be responsible for the initial lift.
Best location of the added roof weight would depend on where you feel you can exert the strongest lift. If that is the rear, then better to have the rocket box there. If that is in the cabover and you crawl up on the bed and push up with your back and that is the position of most strength, then perhaps there. Or, split the difference and have it in the middle to spread the weight evenly front to back. In any case, always best to clear off as much snow as possible which may require taller step stool or telescoping ladder and an extendable brush.
There are different strength struts available but as Herbie mentioned, the initial lift will be all you. I've heard all manner of tricks to get that initial lift in various pop-up camper forums. Some use the trick where they keep all the windows/doors closed up and then open a ceiling fan vent and set the fan to high with the blades pushing air in to "pressurize" the camper so air pressure helps lift as you push up. Others have employed various cranking lifts (often a pro audio adj speaker stand) to get a pop-top started.
Don’t own a Camp X, but have had several pop-up.
Leverage is a wonderful thing and a very light weight , easy to disassemble lever on a stick(a few inches shorter that the ceiling height) could be made that would lift the roof the first 4-6”. If the lever part went “over center” and remained vertical, the user could then transition to just pushing up on the ceiling, with the gas struts doing the work.
If I wasn’t scrambling to get my hard side loaded to get to NH, I’d model it up and post a pic
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Leverage is a wonderful thing and a very light weight , easy to disassemble lever on a stick(a few inches shorter that the ceiling height) could be made that would lift the roof the first 4-6”. If the lever part went “over center” and remained vertical, the user could then transition to just pushing up on the ceiling, with the gas struts doing the work.
If I wasn’t scrambling to get my hard side loaded to get to NH, I’d model it up and post a pic
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
PaulPritchard
ArizonaPaul
Has anyone attached a maxtrax or a propane tank to the Molle panel on their Camp-X? Curious to know how you attached them, hardware used, lockability, etc.
I've read about a Trax-Clamp mount that looks interesting for easily storing maxtrax, but pretty sure I could just bolt them onto the Molle frame with the right hardware.
Thanks.
FYI, we've camped several times with our Camp-X in the past few months with around five nights of sub-freezing or near sub-freezing temperatures. Kept the inside thermostat at 60 degrees overnight. In total, we used about 1/2 pound of propane. That heater is very efficient.
I've read about a Trax-Clamp mount that looks interesting for easily storing maxtrax, but pretty sure I could just bolt them onto the Molle frame with the right hardware.
Thanks.
FYI, we've camped several times with our Camp-X in the past few months with around five nights of sub-freezing or near sub-freezing temperatures. Kept the inside thermostat at 60 degrees overnight. In total, we used about 1/2 pound of propane. That heater is very efficient.
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Yes I have a 11lb propane tank mounted to the driver side Molle. I went with a power tank propane bottle bracket, then went to the hardware store for some 1" width strip aluminum, drilled some holes and then used that to fasten some bolts through the power tank mount then Molle then aluminum strip. It came out pretty good and I've been happy with it. Nice thing about the OEV Molle is that you can remove it with all the bolts on the outside edges. So you can pull the panel off entirely to mount stuff to it. Only tip I would tell you is if you're mounting to the driver side, mount the bottle as far to the side of the camper if possible so the door doesn't come in contact with it when opening.
Jake
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