Sorry to hear that, Shawn. I misunderstood your initial post to mean BOTH rear latches were equally shifted forward; not that the roof is twisted. If the drivers rear is that far off and the passenger rear is much less off, then there is either an corresponding overhang/misalignment on the front buckles/roof (likely) or the roof itself is not square (less likely). I don't recall model year of your camper, but if it's been like that from new, or even if that developed over time, I'd consult with the dealership where you purchased it, the nearest dealer (if any of the new ones are closer to you), or even directly with OEV regarding a fix; whether it ends up being warranty work or otherwise as you'll want to address it. With it that far off in that corner, there must be a corresponding overhand on one of the front corners and that means the seal isn't able to do its job and keep dust, moisture, wind, etc. out as you drive down the road. And while you are having that discussion, also ask if you may have gotten a bad batch of brackets (rusted) or investigate if there was anything that compromised the galvanized protection.
2020 Overland Explorer Vehicles (OEV) CAMP-X pop-up slide-in pickup camper (renamed "Back Country" as of 2023)
- Thread starter Chadx
- Start date
Sorry to hear that, Shawn. I misunderstood your initial post to mean BOTH rear latches were equally shifted forward; not that the roof is twisted. If the drivers rear is that far off and the passenger rear is much less off, then there is either an corresponding overhang/misalignment on the front buckles/roof (likely) or the roof itself is not square (less likely). I don't recall model year of your camper, but if it's been like that from new, or even if that developed over time, I'd consult with the dealership where you purchased it, the nearest dealer (if any of the new ones are closer to you), or even directly with OEV regarding a fix; whether it ends up being warranty work or otherwise as you'll want to address it. With it that far off in that corner, there must be a corresponding overhand on one of the front corners and that means the seal isn't able to do its job and keep dust, moisture, wind, etc. out as you drive down the road. And while you are having that discussion, also ask if you may have gotten a bad batch of brackets (rusted) or investigate if there was anything that compromised the galvanized protection.
MisterSmith
Member
When your roof is in the up position, do all your windows look square, or do they appear to be slightly skewed? How many struts do you have on your roof? You may have a situation where one or more struts is causing the misalignment. Call OEV, they can explain how to troubleshoot and recommend a solution. The "wiggle method" never fixes it for me, I need to always put my rear down first or the roof pulls too far forward.
That's all good advice.
I hope I've not led people astray by calling the technique a wimpy name such as wiggle. Ha. Maybe "rapid push/pull" would be more descriptive. It does require a fair bit of effort to put enough upward force on the rear hinge to have the intended effect. The intent is to unweight the roof a bit. As for speed of the jostling, what I'm personally doing is about 4 push/pulls per second, so fairly rapid.
I hope I've not led people astray by calling the technique a wimpy name such as wiggle. Ha. Maybe "rapid push/pull" would be more descriptive. It does require a fair bit of effort to put enough upward force on the rear hinge to have the intended effect. The intent is to unweight the roof a bit. As for speed of the jostling, what I'm personally doing is about 4 push/pulls per second, so fairly rapid.
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The front left corner is misaligned the same amount as the rear left corner, so the roof is the same size as the camper. It does appear it's just misaligned. I will check the window alignment, but I haven't noticed that as an issue. I have 2 gas struts on each side of the camper or 4 gas struts in total. I will reach out to the dealer/OEV to see what they say. I did notice water one time in the front left corner. It was after a very heavy rain.
MisterSmith
Member
I finally got the Molle panel nuts I had made for the OEV Molle panels. They're 303 Stainless Steel with Black Oxide surface treatment. Trying to gauge interest. Rather expensive to make in low volume, but they come in around $10-$11 each if I can do a run of 250 pieces.
PaulPritchard
ArizonaPaul
These look great. Did you mill them or print them? Interested in your process.I finally got the Molle panel nuts I had made for the OEV Molle panels. They're 303 Stainless Steel with Black Oxide surface treatment. Trying to gauge interest. Rather expensive to make in low volume, but they come in around $10-$11 each if I can do a run of 250 pieces.
I might not be of much help to you if you have to produce 250 units. I would only need 2-4 of them. I'm hopeful you'll get a lot of interest from forum members.
@MisterSmith Those 3D printed molle nuts are great. I don't even have Molle panels on our camper and I want some. Ha. What size are these nuts (sizing of OEV panel cutouts)?
@MisterSmith @MatthewHamon @PaulPritchard Have any of you contacted an OEV dealership or OEV directly regarding the non-standard Molle Panel spacing? Just curious if "the mother ship" is aware or if they are using some other standard intentionally. And what they suggest for attachments, pucks. brackets, etc.
And, I don't know anything about Molle standards, but a quick internet search turns up different opinions on what is "Standard".
I've seen
1.25" x 1.25"
1" x 1.25"
1" x 1.5"
etc.
Anyone have more insight into the true origination/standard for Molle spacing? Or at least what is the size of the most commonly available Molle nut size? Would be nice if OEV either made molle nuts of the right size or better yet, used a standard size so commonly available molle nuts would work.
@MisterSmith @MatthewHamon @PaulPritchard Have any of you contacted an OEV dealership or OEV directly regarding the non-standard Molle Panel spacing? Just curious if "the mother ship" is aware or if they are using some other standard intentionally. And what they suggest for attachments, pucks. brackets, etc.
And, I don't know anything about Molle standards, but a quick internet search turns up different opinions on what is "Standard".
I've seen
1.25" x 1.25"
1" x 1.25"
1" x 1.5"
etc.
Anyone have more insight into the true origination/standard for Molle spacing? Or at least what is the size of the most commonly available Molle nut size? Would be nice if OEV either made molle nuts of the right size or better yet, used a standard size so commonly available molle nuts would work.
MisterSmith
Member
I designed them in Solidworks and made a 3D print in plastic to test them... plastic is cheap. Once the dimensions were verified, I had them CNC milled from 303 Stainless with the black oxide surface treatment to keep them from rusting. I chose 303 stainless because it's got good corrosion resistance. I initially thought of using aluminum, but threaded aluminum is not usually a good idea. I will have some available for sale sometime in December, working on a couple tweaks.
The nuts are CNC'd from stainless, plastic 3D prints would never hold up. The dimensions are as follows.
I have talked to OEV about the Molle panels. "Molle" is used on racks (like the CAMP-X), as well as strapping systems you see on backpacks and soft goods. There is no oversight committee proposing standards, so it's pretty much a free for all for sizing. OEV makes their own panels, so they've got their own standard.
I never wanted to make these, but the only ones I found wouldn't fit the OEV standard.
Stay tuned for 2 more Molle nut versions... I have a vertical and horizontal coming that will allow some flexibility to slide the nut in the Molle panel cut out. The idea is that you would use 1 full size nut and one adjustable nut for most mounting jobs.
I wanted to follow up on the water leaks I was dealing with on my Camp-X.. One of the windows was leaking badly and there was also some water damage on the canvas from leaks up front.. Arnold at OEV stepped up and had me take it to my local dealer.. the dealer was able to make the leaks happen in real time.. so felt that a replacement was appropriate.. OEV stood behind their product and covered a replacement for the whole canvas section. I am very impressed that they did the right thing and took care of a customer. I will continue to extol the virtues of the camper to anyone who will listen
Now if only I can figure out why the ceiling vent/fan leaks when it snows and then melts I will be leak free..
Now if only I can figure out why the ceiling vent/fan leaks when it snows and then melts I will be leak free..I just picked up my Camp-X last week and have leaks from both fans following rain. After talking with the dealer, it looks like the latest MaxxAir fans have two tabs that stick up on either side to attach a cowl. Those tabs have holes that go through the flange and allow water to penetrate. Mine have rubber stoppers or something in them but they still let water through. The dealer is going to send me a sealant to plug up the holes.