2020 Ram 5500 DIY Composite Panel Camper Build Thread

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

So, this entire build is being done for ease of access to all the systems for maintenance, repairs, etc...

I am totally over and passed the point of having to play contortionist to work on any of the systems.

I installed a Tern Overland cargo door to easily access all my plumbing and the furnace from outside.

It all sits right at eye level, and everything is easily accessible.

The quick clamps make the install 10x easier / cleaner than their suggested method of the screws

 

[mog]

Don't forget about the tacos!

Don't mess with his tacos. I hear he has a Gonzales Taco on his back window ?

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

 

[svinyard]

Hey man, I am thinking of glueing down some fridge tie-downs. Similar to how you glued those angle brackets. I don't know entirely what to expect by just using the adhesive. I'm using Manus bond 75 (which has a similar 225PSI as the Korapop you have). These tie-downs are about a 4in diameter. I'm putting one on either side of the fridge and cam-strapping the fridge to them. I've got a National Luna 72L that has the little slot in the handle base for a single cam-strap. Think it might work or should I go a different direction?

Pic of likely placement. You can see the strap slot at top of the handle.

 

[Alloy]

Cabinets are coming along and mostly done (pics later once i clean things up a bit).

QUESTION FOR ALL AND OPINIONS WANTED.....

Punching the hole for the drains on the floor????

I've been putting this off, as its been low priority, but its come time to address it.

I am going to need 2 holes in my floor, one for the sink, and one for the shower.

I have them basically side by side on purpose, so they will both exit the camper and tee into a single drain before hitting the gray tank. Thats the easy part...

The part i am struggling with is what to use and how to do the holes cleanly and sealed and looking for ideas

Floors are 3.25" thick (or so) and in a perfect world, id like a fitting where drain enters the floor and a fitting down below where it exits underneath, with a ball valve of some sort under the vehicle

I am finding close to nothing on my research about the topic and what methods are used.

Anyone care to add their .02?

Thanks

I'll make bulkhead fittings using a plastic pipe (1/2" -2" x 2" - 6" depending on wall thickness and what is being passed through) nipple and drill and tap (NPT) plastic (ABS/HDPE/PVC) 1/4" x 1 1 /2" to 3" diameter sheet/plate (imagine a floor flange that is flat on both sides) to go on the inside/outside .

Sometime I run the NPT die down the pipe nipple further so the flanges can be snugged against the wall. The extra can be trimmed off.



Floor flange

 

[yfarm]

https://www.hydrasearchrecreational.com/pdf/catalog.pdf

Buck Algonquin if you cant find it anywhere else Marine

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

I'll make bulkhead fittings using a plastic pipe (1/2" -2" x 2" - 6" depending on wall thickness and what is being passed through) nipple and drill and tap (NPT) plastic (ABS/HDPE/PVC) 1/4" x 1 1 /2" to 3" diameter sheet/plate (imagine a floor flange that is flat on both sides) to go on the inside/outside .

Sometime I run the NPT die down the pipe nipple further so the flanges can be snugged against the wall. The extra can be trimmed off.



Floor flange

View attachment 654824

Thank you very much!

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Hey man, I am thinking of glueing down some fridge tie-downs. Similar to how you glued those angle brackets. I don't know entirely what to expect by just using the adhesive. I'm using Manus bond 75 (which has a similar 225PSI as the Korapop you have). These tie-downs are about a 4in diameter. I'm putting one on either side of the fridge and cam-strapping the fridge to them. I've got a National Luna 72L that has the little slot in the handle base for a single cam-strap. Think it might work or should I go a different direction?

Pic of likely placement. You can see the strap slot at top of the handle.
View attachment 654817

I know nothing about Manus bond stuff, but if it holds like the Korapop stuff from TC, i think it would be a great idea

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Sooooo

Got out this weekend for a short getaway, but used the heck out of all the systems.

Cooked 3 meals on induction stove, microwaved my beloved hot pockets, and ran the AC a bit.

Got battery down to 63% and by 1130am the next day, it was back to 100% via solar and Victron app shows the max input was 786 watts at one point. So thats working great

A lot of naysayers and nit pickers say doubted the electrical system and such... Yeah....

Now, i do have a friend of a friend that builds residential solar systems and has mentioned building me a big silly lithium bank for the camper, which i may or may not end up doing.

But for now... 300ah seems to be great! But likely not, when it gets hotter and i want more AC

 

[john61ct]

If the bank is lead, then it will not truly be at 100% SoC until at least 6-7hrs from start of charging no matter how many watts/amps are available.

Not saying your system isn't fantastic, performing great, just that for really good longevity, even the best charge source needs user adjustment to ensure it doe not drop to Float prematurely.

Whatever you are using as a BM (702-BMV?) needs to get its estimate of 100% Full reset / calibrated against the current trailing down to the endAmps spec.

Usually 0.005C but it can vary by battery model, and wear level of the bank.

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

If the bank is lead, then it will not truly be at 100% SoC until at least 6-7hrs from start of charging no matter how many watts/amps are available.

Current bank is 300ah of Lithium

I’m using the Victron Smart Shunt with it set as the battery manufacturer recommends

 

[Alloy]

Small but important update.

I often see people having to disassemble, clean, and reassemble their diesel heaters. I know something like this will always require some sort of maintenance, but the one thing i always thought would cut down on this is an air filter of some sort for the intake side of the combustion chamber. If youre camping anywhere near dusty conditions, running the heater, youre basically just sucking it into the combustion chamber.

I see VERY VERY few installs, on YouTube or the Gram that are installing any sort of filters.

I came across the portable Planar setup in the pelican case, and noticed it had an air filter on it.

After a bunch of searching and digging, i finally found it available by itself, to use with other furnaces.

It came from germany, took a few weeks, but fit like a glove and test run worked perfectly. I have it mated to the intake silencer, so its both quieter, and cleaner.

Air intake hose with filter for parking heaters

Air intake / intake hose for the auxiliary heater with dust filter to get clean air into the combustion chamber

www.tigerexped.de

View attachment 651185

You could keep any eye on that with a Filterminder.

Filter Minder® - Highest Quality Indicators, Gauges, Switches and Sensors

Filter Minder® offers the highest quality air and fluid filter monitoring indicators, gauges, switches and sensors available.

filterminder.com

 

[john61ct]

Current bank is 300ah of Lithium

Aha, excellent!

Then for good longevity, opposite of lead

you want to avoid going all the way to Full, do not allow the bank to be Float charged.

Go up to true maximum spec only for occasional benchmarking, cap testing, meter calibration.

For day to day normal cycling, I stop at 3.42 - 3.52V, depending on C-rate

no CV / Absorb at all, or shortest possible setting of the charge source if simple HVC is not available.

And only when actively cycling.

Best to keep at 30-60% SoC otherwise.

 

[WanderingBison]

Aha, excellent!

Then for good longevity, opposite of lead

you want to avoid going all the way to Full, do not allow the bank to be Float charged.

Go up to true maximum spec only for occasional benchmarking, cap testing, meter calibration.

For day to day normal cycling, I stop at 3.42 - 3.52V, depending on C-rate

no CV / Absorb at all, or shortest possible setting of the charge source if simple HVC is not available.

And only when actively cycling.

Best to keep at 30-60% SoC otherwise.

Or simply rely on a good battery management system, for instance the Victron BMS with a Victron shunt, etc.

It makes sense that Victron’s integration will manage battery charging effectively and to ensure a reliable system that extends battery life within the serviceable life they position their batteries for.

That’s why I believe it’s worth using a Victron MPPT with a Victron inverter/charger, with a Victron chassis charging solution (BtB charger or Cyrix battery combiner) and Victron LiPo battery.

It’s also fair to accept that Victron (or another reputable manufacturer of equipment) will properly support batteries from other reputable manufacturers.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[john61ct]

No matter the vendor, sources and meters need to be adjusted by a knowledgeable owner.

Every single vendor uses specs by default that are **not** conducive to optimizing for longevity.

Following the official data sheet specs might result in say 3000 - 4000 cycle lifespans.

Whereas LFP can reach 8000 - 10,000 with better coddling, avoiding the shoulders at both ends, higher avg DoD%, etc.

No manufacturer of LFP batteries nor meters, charging gear acknowledges this info nor funds testing along those lines.