wurningdirt
Member
Nice, looking good
2020 Ram 5500 DIY Composite Panel Camper Build Thread
- Thread starter RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
- Start date
Nice, looking good
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
Exactly my thoughts sir!
One could have an anuerism worrying about such minutia in the grand scheme of things really
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
Thanks
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
So i should trust "Some Dude On The Intraweb" over one of the world leaders in Solar Technology for RVs?
Ok... Ill get right on that
[insert facepalm]
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
For anyone interested... (posting here before the classifieds section, which is a comedy show i dont have time or patience to deal with)
I am selling a basically new Tern Overland aka Arctic Tern 300x700mm window...
I installed it, wanted a bigger window, and removed it. Its basically new, no scratches, has all the hardward, and shade/screen etc...
It is for the 45mm-54mm wall thickness
All the exact specs and measurements can be found on their site: https://www.ternoverland.com/arctic-tern-window
They sell for $446 plus shipping
I want $350 picked up in San Diego.
I WILL NOT ship this... Dont care if youre buddy works at UPS, you can use your companies UPS account, etc...
NO SHIPPING, DON'T ASK [insert smiling middle finger emoji]
I am selling a basically new Tern Overland aka Arctic Tern 300x700mm window...
I installed it, wanted a bigger window, and removed it. Its basically new, no scratches, has all the hardward, and shade/screen etc...
It is for the 45mm-54mm wall thickness
All the exact specs and measurements can be found on their site: https://www.ternoverland.com/arctic-tern-window
They sell for $446 plus shipping
I want $350 picked up in San Diego.
I WILL NOT ship this... Dont care if youre buddy works at UPS, you can use your companies UPS account, etc...
NO SHIPPING, DON'T ASK [insert smiling middle finger emoji]
@RAM5500 CAMPERTHING How's the Airhead working out so far now? I got ours installed (same JR vent) and our family of 4 using it (2 adults and 2 boys). It was great until it wasn't lol. I think we got some of the liquids into the solids bucket or not dry enough Coco Coir so it had a sewer smell. Thankfully it was just an overnight trip. I identified that most of the smell was coming out near the ceiling cowl. It has a rubber gasket but the fan wiring sticking out prevents a perfect seal and those hose connection isn't sealed. I just put some silicon around the edge of of the cowl gasket and also near where the hose screws into that cowl. It made a huge, immediate improvement on keeping the stank out of the camper. Obviously I need to get the solids bucket in new stinky shape, but at least sealing it keeps that smell out if it does happen.
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
@svinyard I’ve used it a lot now, so my feedback is from real world now.
I’m a big fat guy that drinks a lot of beer and eats crappy food. My turds are bigger and stinkier than most.
With that said, I am baffled and super happy with the fact I have ABSOLUTELY ZERO stink whatsoever. I even let the camper sit it in the sun for 2 weeks after recent trip without touching the toilet and not even a remote smell whatsoever. Yes, I was diligent in the sealing of the fan and the gasket and made sure it was perfect.
Also, what’s very important is to have a piece of PVC or something between the inside roof and the outside roof and that has to be sealed also, or the stank will go into the insulation.
On the #2 end, I’m super super happy and impressed
On the #1 end though... I guess I never realized how much pee actually pee. Stayed at a campground (rare) recently and within 2 days the pee bottle was full. Normally I just Pee outside whenever I need to go, but there was kids everywhere and I was too lazy to walk to the bathroom.
Under my usual circumstances of remote camping and peeing outside, I probably wouldn’t have issues.
But if used even somewhat frequently, the pee bottle fills up FAST.
I may at some point reroute the pee into a gray tank, and just use the poo feature. Will see.
But so far, I still feel the AirHead is well worth it personally
@RAM5500 CAMPERTHING Nice to hear its working. I wondered about the composite getting fumes leaked into. I'm not sure how permeable to that it is but nevertheless I took your advice and applied a solid layer of that sealant all over the exposed hole. Yeah our pee bucket fills up in a day and half more or less. I expected that and so far its been fine.
danneskjold
Active member
No one asked me...but I installed an Airhead back in August and have been living in my camper roughly 1/3 of the time since then and I’ve never once had to empty the compost area. It’s remarkable how even a couple week break totally changes the composition of the “compost” and allows the actual composting process to work. It’s really the perfect option for weekend warriors or people who aren’t true full timers, and for full timers it still kicks the ******** out of having a black tank or cassette toilet I think.
Personally, I almost never use the pee container and if I have to go inside I just use a bottle as I feel it’s easier to empty.
Personally, I almost never use the pee container and if I have to go inside I just use a bottle as I feel it’s easier to empty.
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
Maybe ill install one of the smallest Tern windows down low and just pee out of it
mog
Kodiak Buckaroo
It is quite common to have relief tubes on aircraft, so just tell everyone you are an ex-F15 fight jockey and it is the only way you can relieve yourself now.Maybe ill install one of the smallest Tern windows down low and just pee out of it
The Ford/Chevy version
The RAM version
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
It is quite common to have relief tubes on aircraft, so just tell everyone you are an ex-F15 fight jockey and it is the only way you can relieve yourself now.
View attachment 660548
The Ford/Chevy version
The RAM version
Hahahaha
When racing Baja we tried the condom catheters
Protip: They DONT work ???
Vance Vanz
Well-known member
Hi,
I’ve been following the thread for a bit and wanted to start by saying great job on your build and thanks so much for taking the time to share your journey. Your hard work is noticed and appreciated!!!!
I'm about to pull the trigger on a fully loaded F550 custom cab over build, basically EarthRoamer style without the ¾ of a million-price tag. We will be traveling from AK to the tip of South America and back, IF............... COVID permits.
My build is pretty much all mapped out and ready to go except for one major aspect, the subframe between the Ford chassis and the Total Composite shell. I know this was originally an issue earlier in this thread, trying to find a competent and available shop. I also know this is something you are still tweaking on in your build and have not completely dialed in yet.
I've already been down a list of 6-8 trailer/custom metal fab shops that supposedly specialize in these subframes, that were all recommended by other reputable shops in the overland industry. I also started calling any and all trailer/fab shops I could find, but I am striking out big time. Some of these shops were also noted early in the thread.
Either the shop has no idea what I'm talking about, they want 25K to reinvent a subframe they already have that might work, or they just don't want to touch it. A couple of these trailer/fab shops that were recommended supposedly have standard 3-point subframes on the shelf for an F550, that other customers have apparently bought from them, but I can't get a phone call back or a straight answer from anyone.
Any info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm located in Denver, CO
Thanks in advance!
I’ve been following the thread for a bit and wanted to start by saying great job on your build and thanks so much for taking the time to share your journey. Your hard work is noticed and appreciated!!!!
I'm about to pull the trigger on a fully loaded F550 custom cab over build, basically EarthRoamer style without the ¾ of a million-price tag. We will be traveling from AK to the tip of South America and back, IF............... COVID permits.
My build is pretty much all mapped out and ready to go except for one major aspect, the subframe between the Ford chassis and the Total Composite shell. I know this was originally an issue earlier in this thread, trying to find a competent and available shop. I also know this is something you are still tweaking on in your build and have not completely dialed in yet.
I've already been down a list of 6-8 trailer/custom metal fab shops that supposedly specialize in these subframes, that were all recommended by other reputable shops in the overland industry. I also started calling any and all trailer/fab shops I could find, but I am striking out big time. Some of these shops were also noted early in the thread.
Either the shop has no idea what I'm talking about, they want 25K to reinvent a subframe they already have that might work, or they just don't want to touch it. A couple of these trailer/fab shops that were recommended supposedly have standard 3-point subframes on the shelf for an F550, that other customers have apparently bought from them, but I can't get a phone call back or a straight answer from anyone.
Any info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm located in Denver, CO
Thanks in advance!
Last edited:
StenchRV
Well-known member
I have been following your thread for quite some time, just about the beginning, and have watched all of your videos at least twice. THANK YOU for the great information you have provided and sources to get parts that WORK.
My wife and I just custom ordered a 2022 (Wanted a 2021 but too late) Ram SLT 5500 84" CA 4X4 Regular Cab. Your information will be put to good use, along with the other 2 Ram 5500's being build on the forum that we are also following. The end product will look very similar to your rig.
I have the same subframe question as Vance Vanz. We used to live in NM but have relocated to GA and I am looking for an East coast subframe builder. We have contacted a builder out West, the only one we know of, and we are waiting for a response. I can build the subframe if necessary, I have plenty of fabrication experience and a pretty complete machine shop and fab tools and space in the aircraft hanger I call home. We are exploring the idea of having someone fabricate the subframe to save time and allow us to put our efforts elsewhere in the build process.
ANY information, including things you would change on your subframe, or do differently next time, would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thank you again for taking the time to document your build and sharing it with the Overlanding community.
CHEERS!
My wife and I just custom ordered a 2022 (Wanted a 2021 but too late) Ram SLT 5500 84" CA 4X4 Regular Cab. Your information will be put to good use, along with the other 2 Ram 5500's being build on the forum that we are also following. The end product will look very similar to your rig.
I have the same subframe question as Vance Vanz. We used to live in NM but have relocated to GA and I am looking for an East coast subframe builder. We have contacted a builder out West, the only one we know of, and we are waiting for a response. I can build the subframe if necessary, I have plenty of fabrication experience and a pretty complete machine shop and fab tools and space in the aircraft hanger I call home. We are exploring the idea of having someone fabricate the subframe to save time and allow us to put our efforts elsewhere in the build process.
ANY information, including things you would change on your subframe, or do differently next time, would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thank you again for taking the time to document your build and sharing it with the Overlanding community.
CHEERS!
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
@Vance Vanz and @StenchRV
Thanks for the kind words guys! Its all still a work in progress, but i am loving how its all falling together.
Unfortunately, i dont have much advice, actually none, about sources for the subframe in the US.
DDG https://www.ddgoverland.com in BC seems to be doing some amazing work and offering shippable subframes. I have no PERSONAL experience with their stuff, but following their IG and chatting with them a bunch via DM, they definitely know what they are doing.
As for advice, what i would do differently, and what i would change... loaded question... but...
-When discussing needs with builder, stick to your guns and dont let them talk you into things you dont agree with. Example, I did not want my bumper welded to the subframe in any way shape or form. My builder was adamant about doing it and i eventually caved into the idea for time reasons. I am 100% regretting this and the idea of having the rear bumper and the subframe one piece is idiotic and problematic for a whole bunch of reasons.
-Review all aspects of the subframe regarding what has to come out of the bottom of the camper (furnace exhaust, gray water drains, power, etc....) This is also coming back to bite me in the butt. I went over this with my builder, and it was in one ear, out the other basically. I am a big fan of over building things, but the amount of bracing and crossmembers on my subframe are both way overkill, and very much a pain in the ******** for layout. I have had to alter my layout based on where i could get my gray water drain through and where i could get my furnace exhaust through.
-The rear most portion of the frame was warped and bowed upon delivery, and luckily i was able to get some talented friends to fix it properly. They are busy as hell with their fab shops so i knew they didnt have the time to build the thing from scratch, or i would of went that route.
-Id also say, give no more than 1/3 deposit, and no more until 100% completely done and quality checked. I'll be up front, i paid $7k for mine, and with all the headaches its caused me, i feel its worth maybe half that. I'd happily pay $10k+ to have it done proper and for a builder to listen to my experienced opinion rather than try to argue with almost every single thing i said. I was kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place with no other options though.
-Flex... The springs he put on are not even close to the right rate, this is still some trial and error to correct on my part. I am trying to get it built out more and fully loaded so i have a better baseline to start with.
LONG TERM: Once i get this all dialed in, built and finished, i am eventually going to remove the camper and redo the subframe myself (with help of friends) and fix all the weird stupid issues.
Thanks for the kind words guys! Its all still a work in progress, but i am loving how its all falling together.
Unfortunately, i dont have much advice, actually none, about sources for the subframe in the US.
DDG https://www.ddgoverland.com in BC seems to be doing some amazing work and offering shippable subframes. I have no PERSONAL experience with their stuff, but following their IG and chatting with them a bunch via DM, they definitely know what they are doing.
As for advice, what i would do differently, and what i would change... loaded question... but...
-When discussing needs with builder, stick to your guns and dont let them talk you into things you dont agree with. Example, I did not want my bumper welded to the subframe in any way shape or form. My builder was adamant about doing it and i eventually caved into the idea for time reasons. I am 100% regretting this and the idea of having the rear bumper and the subframe one piece is idiotic and problematic for a whole bunch of reasons.
-Review all aspects of the subframe regarding what has to come out of the bottom of the camper (furnace exhaust, gray water drains, power, etc....) This is also coming back to bite me in the butt. I went over this with my builder, and it was in one ear, out the other basically. I am a big fan of over building things, but the amount of bracing and crossmembers on my subframe are both way overkill, and very much a pain in the ******** for layout. I have had to alter my layout based on where i could get my gray water drain through and where i could get my furnace exhaust through.
-The rear most portion of the frame was warped and bowed upon delivery, and luckily i was able to get some talented friends to fix it properly. They are busy as hell with their fab shops so i knew they didnt have the time to build the thing from scratch, or i would of went that route.
-Id also say, give no more than 1/3 deposit, and no more until 100% completely done and quality checked. I'll be up front, i paid $7k for mine, and with all the headaches its caused me, i feel its worth maybe half that. I'd happily pay $10k+ to have it done proper and for a builder to listen to my experienced opinion rather than try to argue with almost every single thing i said. I was kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place with no other options though.
-Flex... The springs he put on are not even close to the right rate, this is still some trial and error to correct on my part. I am trying to get it built out more and fully loaded so i have a better baseline to start with.
LONG TERM: Once i get this all dialed in, built and finished, i am eventually going to remove the camper and redo the subframe myself (with help of friends) and fix all the weird stupid issues.