2021 F150 Tremor - updated build and price now available.

[skrypj]

What about deleting the oil - water cooler and going with an external oil cooler? That would free up cooling capacity in your engine so it can absorb the excess heat as you pull a long grade.

F-150 EcoBoost Oil Cooler Installation Guide • Full Race

F-150 EcoBoost Oil Cooler Installation Guide Start by bolting the lower mounting beam to the front bumper support, then bolt the oil cooler to the front

www.full-race.com

Im running a setrab oil cooler in series with the oem cooler. I was worried that at low speeds the setrab might not provide enough cooling. I have been climbing some really steep grades at slow speeds before and had my coolant temps spike. Climbing from Panguich to Brianhead here in Utah is like a 4000’ climb at like 20-30 mph and i had the cabim heat on max to keep the thing cool.

I mounted it directly in front of my intercooler down low so that it is in a separate air stream from the radiator.

 

[Buddha.]

Too bad they don’t put the 6.2 or the 7.3 in the 150.

 

[Deleted member 9101]

Im running a setrab oil cooler in series with the oem cooler. I was worried that at low speeds the setrab might not provide enough cooling. I have been climbing some really steep grades at slow speeds before and had my coolant temps spike. Climbing from Panguich to Brianhead here in Utah is like a 4000’ climb at like 20-30 mph and i had the cabim heat on max to keep the thing cool.

I mounted it directly in front of my intercooler down low so that it is in a separate air stream from the radiator.

Just for the sake of curiosity, what kind of temps are you seeing?

Also... Perhaps you can bypass the OEM cooler and then put two small fans on the aftermarket one so it gets enough air at low speeds? I mean... It couldn't hurt to try...lol.

It really seems like you have done about everything possible to keep it cool.... and yet it still gets hot.

 

[skrypj]

Too bad they don’t put the 6.2 or the 7.3 in the 150.

They did put the 6.2 in it until 2014 but it is very rare. But yes, i agree, i would buy a 7.3L F150 so fast.

 

[Deleted member 9101]

They did put the 6.2 in it until 2014 but it is very rare. But yes, i agree, i would buy a 7.3L F150 so fast.

Little known fact... The new 7.3 will fit anywhere a 5.0 fits... Meaning you can drop one under the hood of a new F150.

 

[1000arms]

Little known fact... The new 7.3 will fit anywhere a 5.0 fits... Meaning you can drop one under the hood of a new F150.

Here you go:

7.3L SUPER DUTY NA CRATE ENGINE

7.3L SUPER DUTY NA CRATE ENGINE|Ford Performance Parts

performanceparts.ford.com

"The new pushrod Ford displaces 445 cubic inches and while it’s not slated for the 2021 Mustang, you can order one from Ford Performance as a crate engine for swaps or custom builds and the aftermarket is starting to respond with parts to improve performance.

Godzilla, as it’s being called, was developed as an option for F-250-and-up Super Duty models as a severe-duty engine that’s powerful, durable, and affordable to build and maintain. Interestingly enough, the very features that make it a strong truck engine get us hot rodders fired up, too. We’ve already seen one make over 700 horsepower naturally aspirated and 1,450 horsepower with a supercharger!"

"The 445 cubic inch "Godzilla" is fairly compact for a big-cube block, with dimensions that are just a little bit bigger than a 351W small-block."

The above quotes are from:

Go In-Depth Into The 7.3L

Ford's 7.3L

www.holley.com

 

[skrypj]

Just for the sake of curiosity, what kind of temps are you seeing?

Also... Perhaps you can bypass the OEM cooler and then put two small fans on the aftermarket one so it gets enough air at low speeds? I mean... It couldn't hurt to try...lol.

It really seems like you have done about everything possible to keep it cool.... and yet it still gets hot.

It goes into thermal protection mode at 252F or something like that. I hit that twice before I knew what was going on. Now i drive so that I keep it from getting over 240F if i can

 

[Deleted member 9101]

It goes into thermal protection mode at 252F or something like that. I hit that twice before I knew what was going on. Now i drive so that I keep it from getting over 240F

They can make a lot of heat pretty quickly. IIRC in my last data log I noticed my coolant temp went from 203° to 209° in one HW pull going from 20 to 80. Fortunately it lost the heat almost as quickly as it made it. I've hit 220° before towing, but I don't think I've gone over that.

240° is getting pretty warm... Definitely takes it's toll on parts and fluids. I truly hope you get it sorted out sooner rather than later.

 

[Herbie]

Plenty of dealerships do a "haggle free" pricing.

Sure, and if/when I get to the point of purchasing a truck, that'd probably be my choice. The problem is that this "system" basically renders the manufacturer's "build and price" tools totally irrelevant. Trying to determine if I should go cab/chassis or full truck and ditch the bed becomes a stupid exercise if I spec out a 3/4-truck that rings in at $50k (or $60k, or $70k), but know that the actual street/lot price for built trucks varies by a massive percentage.

Look, the big three are all going to sell as many trucks as they can make - I know my purchasing preferences don't mean a thing. Like I said, it just makes me crazy because I prefer to approach things like a systems engineer - I want to have the whole project spec'd out and costed before I start.

 

[Deleted member 9101]

Sure, and if/when I get to the point of purchasing a truck, that'd probably be my choice. The problem is that this "system" basically renders the manufacturer's "build and price" tools totally irrelevant. Trying to determine if I should go cab/chassis or full truck and ditch the bed becomes a stupid exercise if I spec out a 3/4-truck that rings in at $50k (or $60k, or $70k), but know that the actual street/lot price for built trucks varies by a massive percentage.

Look, the big three are all going to sell as many trucks as they can make - I know my purchasing preferences don't mean a thing. Like I said, it just makes me crazy because I prefer to approach things like a systems engineer - I want to have the whole project spec'd out and costed before I start.

Lol...well one easy way is to take 10k off the sticker price. That's usually where you end up with discounts and rebates.

 

[Todd780]

Lol...well one easy way is to take 10k off the sticker price. That's usually where you end up with discounts and rebates.

Once they start offering discounts and rebates again...

 

[Grassland]

The build and price tool is a bit pointless, with the fact that many trucks you build don't exist in a 500 mile radius or in your country or at all.
And that you can't factory order past a certain date, and the massive rebates don't apply until after that date.

 

[Todd780]

I see Tremor (high) comes with a Hi-Lock transfer case. What does that mean?

What's the difference between that transfer case and the ones that come on the standard and mid level Tremor trucks?

 

[jbaucom]

The best I can tell, the difference is that the 402a (high) level Tremors use the Raptor's transfer case that mechanically locks into High or Low, which can be read about in detail here: https://www.sae.org/news/2020/03/ford-raptor-unique-front-driveline

The low and mid-level Tremors (400a & 401a) use the standard 4A transfer case that apparently relies on full lock-up of a clutch pack when in 4H or 4L, and lacks the Raptor transfer case' "dog-clutch-type setup to mechanically connect the front and rear drivelines for low-traction, off-road duty." (quoted from the SAE paper)

 

[skrypj]

The best I can tell, the difference is that the 402a (high) level Tremors use the Raptor's transfer case that mechanically locks into High or Low, which can be read about in detail here: https://www.sae.org/news/2020/03/ford-raptor-unique-front-driveline

The low and mid-level Tremors (400a & 401a) use the standard 4A transfer case that apparently relies on full lock-up of a clutch pack when in 4H or 4L, and lacks the Raptor transfer case' "dog-clutch-type setup to mechanically connect the front and rear drivelines for low-traction, off-road duty." (quoted from the SAE paper)

This. The normal 4Auto tcase only uses clutches to engage 4hi/4lo. There is potential for it to slip. Mine in my Lariat is questionable at times. Im not 100% sure if i always get full torque to front axle.

The raptor/tremor tcase mechanically locks in addition to having the clutches.

Also I think the Raptor tcase probably has more advanced offroad modes.