2021 F150 Tremor - updated build and price now available.

[skrypj]

Re read his post man.
I don't want to be a ******** but he has a 180° stat and upgraded intercooler and an aux oil cooler.

And as a Canadian I can even say those temps he towed at aren't hot

And i have a Mishimoto radiator now.

 

[skrypj]

Sorry to hear about your issues. Although Parley’s is a steep canyon, Ecoboost should have no issues with it. My old 2015 had no issues pulling my 5k lb enclosed trailer up and down that pass.

In fact, last weekend, took my father in law’s 2018 3.5EB F150 down south (Bryce). Few steep hills and hot weather (although cooler than the week before) but no issues. It pulled the 6x14 enclosed like a champ. Crappy MPG, though, due to the winds.

I had a buddy with a 2018 Max tow F150 pull Parleys with his 7000 lb trailer and said he was foot to the floor doing 50mph. He lived out of his trailer for a year and towed all over the west and was not happy with the truck at all.

 

[skrypj]

The problem with the TFL video is they pushed the truck to hard for the conditions. Had they driven it properly it never would have happened.

The 2.7 in my F150 and the 3.5 in my dad's Navigator have never even comes close to getting hot while towing and both of us have towed heavier trailers than you with zero issue.

As for your truck you have a few options:

1. Slow down and drop a gear or two. More RMPs means less boost, which means much less heat. If you have the digital dash you can use Foracan to put the actual temp over the temp gauge. If you down shift and let the RPMs climb you will see the temps drop quickly. This will also use less fuel.

If you don't want to do #1:

2. Get a Fullrace or Mishimoto radiator... They keep 600+whp trucks cool all day long.

3. Drop in a 180° thermostat from the Mustang GT and get a "tow tune" that adjust the fan start temp to match the lower temp thermostat.

The problem is my coolant temps were stabilizing at 240-245F climbing only doing 50 mph if it was a hot day witha head wind.

That day I came back from Wind River where it was 98F and could only hold 55 mph on the flats would have been horrific had I had to be on I-80 or I-15. The 18 wheelers run at 70 mph regardless of conditions and i would have been a road block. Ive seen some scary stuff happen when people were not keeping up with traffic.

 

[ebrabaek]

My 2018 onefitty with the 3.5 have towed our 5000pound camper over numerous mountain passes in CO.
High speed freeway runs at 70mps for thousands of miles in OK and TX.
Coolant and tranny Temps never been elevated.
No issues whatsoever.
Pulls hard and keeps pulling.

 

[Deleted member 9101]

Re read his post man.
I don't want to be a ******** but he has a 180° stat and upgraded intercooler and an aux oil cooler.

And as a Canadian I can even say those temps he towed at aren't hot

Which was not in the post that I responded to...lol.

 

[Deleted member 9101]

The problem is my coolant temps were stabilizing at 240-245F climbing only doing 50 mph if it was a hot day witha head wind.

That day I came back from Wind River where it was 98F and could only hold 55 mph on the flats would have been horrific had I had to be on I-80 or I-15. The 18 wheelers run at 70 mph regardless of conditions and i would have been a road block. Ive seen some scary stuff happen when people were not keeping up with traffic.

Then you've definitely got a unique problem my man, with your mods your motor should stay nice and cool. I can beat on mine with 7k behind it going from Alamogordo NM to Cloud Croft NM in August and I don't get anywhere near that hot.

* Unhook the shutters that are behind the grill. I took mine out and my temps dropped while I was in traffic. It also lowered my IAT 2 temp

 

[ITTOG]

The problem is my coolant temps were stabilizing at 240-245F climbing only doing 50 mph if it was a hot day witha head wind.

That day I came back from Wind River where it was 98F and could only hold 55 mph on the flats would have been horrific had I had to be on I-80 or I-15. The 18 wheelers run at 70 mph regardless of conditions and i would have been a road block. Ive seen some scary stuff happen when people were not keeping up with traffic.

This is much more common than most would think. I see on the ecoboost forums people complaining of overheating all the time.

 

[jbaucom]

I'm curious if the overheating issues while towing are all coming from trucks towing travel trailers, or if there are flatbeds in the mix. There's a lot of wind resistance generated by the front surface of a travel trailer (non pop up), and Ford's towing guide has trailer frontal area guidelines for the different truck lines. How bricklike, or relatively aerodynamic, the trailer is also makes a difference in the amount of wind resistance generated; the easier the air flows around the trailer, the less resistance the truck has to overcome when towing. Consider also, that towing 55 mph into a 30 mph headwind is generating wind resistance equivalent to towing that trailer at 85 mph without a headwind. This is where axle ratio really comes into play, and lower gearing helps, as does the additional gears in the new 10 speed transmission.

I also wonder if stock trucks are having overheating issues when towing within their mfg. defined limits. Powertrain issues when towing in these conditions are further compounded when the truck has oversized tires installed, without appropriate regearing. If you have a 3.73 rear axle and are running 35's in place of stock 32's, your effective gear ratio with the tire size increase is around 3.45, and with a 3.55 axle it becomes about 3.30 with the oversized tires.

 

[skrypj]

Then you've definitely got a unique problem my man, with your mods your motor should stay nice and cool. I can beat on mine with 7k behind it going from Alamogordo NM to Cloud Croft NM in August and I don't get anywhere near that hot.

* Unhook the shutters that are behind the grill. I took mine out and my temps dropped while I was in traffic. It also lowered my IAT 2 temp

Tell that to the people in the 81 page thread we have on the Ecoboost forum.

I have not heard any overheating issues with the 2.7L. I don't know what the difference is other than it makes less torque at the lower end and can cope a little better.

The 2015+ trucks get a larger radiator than the 2011-2014. They increased the frontal area of the radiator by almost 20% in 2015 and that is the same radiator they are using right up until the 2021's. In that thread on the Ecoboost forum, it seems the only people who have been able to mostly cure the heating issues are the ones who have a 2018+ with Mishimoto radiator. They have the 20% larger radiator that is now 52mm thick and its just enough to get them over the edge. The people with 2011-2014's are not so lucky and the guys with Full-Race or mish radiators still have to be careful. Are they better? Yes, but you still have to watch the temps. After my one tow with my Mishimoto, I hit 220F on a 70F day with a tail wind. That doesn't exactly inspire confidence that on a 95+ degree day with a head wind that the truck will stay cool. Hopefully it is better enough that I can chug along with the flow of traffic.

At the end of the day, I am not gunna buy another truck that is that close to its limits. I don't want to have to buy a $700 Mishimoto radiator and a $700 intercooler for my brand new truck rated to tow 14000 lbs to keep it safe. That is BS and it introduces a point of failure by screwing with the truck like that.

I'm curious if the overheating issues while towing are all coming from trucks towing travel trailers, or if there are flatbeds in the mix. There's a lot of wind resistance generated by the front surface of a travel trailer (non pop up), and Ford's towing guide has trailer frontal area guidelines for the different truck lines. How bricklike, or relatively aerodynamic, the trailer is also makes a difference in the amount of wind resistance generated; the easier the air flows around the trailer, the less resistance the truck has to overcome when towing. Consider also, that towing 55 mph into a 30 mph headwind is generating wind resistance equivalent to towing that trailer at 85 mph without a headwind. This is where axle ratio really comes into play, and lower gearing helps, as does the additional gears in the new 10 speed transmission.

I also wonder if stock trucks are having overheating issues when towing within their mfg. defined limits. Powertrain issues when towing in these conditions are further compounded when the truck has oversized tires installed, without appropriate regearing. If you have a 3.73 rear axle and are running 35's in place of stock 32's, your effective gear ratio with the tire size increase is around 3.45, and with a 3.55 axle is becomes about 3.30 with the oversized tires.

Exactly. And Ford puts a little footnote in their manuals and towing guides saying your trucks performance may be significantly reduced if your trailer frontal area is over 60 sqft. I seriously doubt that any full 8' width travel trailer is under 60 sqft.

My truck is a max-tow with the 3.73's. I pulls a 5500 lb GVWR trailer. If both my truck and trailer were at their GVWR my total GCW would be 13200 lbs. The truck has a GCWR of 17100 lbs. Im literally 3900 lbs below my GCWR in the most extreme situation where both vehicles are fully loaded. My 315/70's were installed in February and I have only towed once with them. I still have my stock wheels with 275/60R20's just in case. The one benefit of having the 35's is that it allows me to drop to 2nd gear earlier and spin the engine up higher to get the water pump flowing more and boost down.

 

[Deleted member 9101]

Tell that to the people in the 81 page thread we have on the Ecoboost forum.

I have not heard any overheating issues with the 2.7L. I don't know what the difference is other than it makes less torque at the lower end and can cope a little better.

The 2015+ trucks get a larger radiator than the 2011-2014. They increased the frontal area of the radiator by almost 20% in 2015 and that is the same radiator they are using right up until the 2021's. In that thread on the Ecoboost forum, it seems the only people who have been able to mostly cure the heating issues are the ones who have a 2018+ with Mishimoto radiator. They have the 20% larger radiator that is now 52mm thick and its just enough to get them over the edge. The people with 2011-2014's are not so lucky and the guys with Full-Race or mish radiators still have to be careful. Are they better? Yes, but you still have to watch the temps. After my one tow with my Mishimoto, I hit 220F on a 70F day with a tail wind. That doesn't exactly inspire confidence that on a 95+ degree day with a head wind that the truck will stay cool. Hopefully it is better enough that I can chug along with the flow of traffic.

At the end of the day, I am not gunna buy another truck that is that close to its limits. I don't want to have to buy a $700 Mishimoto radiator and a $700 intercooler for my brand new truck rated to tow 14000 lbs to keep it safe. That is BS and it introduces a point of failure by screwing with the truck like that.

My 2.7 makes far more TQ than a stock 3.5 at any RPM ;-)

Also...have you tried talking to a performance shop that specializes in Ecoboost trucks? I'm betting a shop like Brew City Boost could offer some solid advice since they build them from the ground up and have to deal with the heat issue.

Do you have a tow tune and was your radiator fan activation temp ever lowered to match your new thermostat? I'm curious as to what a data log would reveal.

 

[whec716]

Build and price went live. Built mine as a mid level. Added in the front torsen diff ($140), tailgate step...and that's it.

View attachment 668782

Don't forget to join mustang club of america for 25 bucks and get x plan pricing, saves you 2-4 k.

 

[jbaucom]

Ford also specs a 2% reduction in GVW & GCW per 1,000' elevation. At 8,500' that's 16-18%, or nearly a 3,000 lb reduction in rated GCW on a max-tow truck. At the highest elevations out west, you're looking at a capacity reduction of 20%+. Ford provides a lot of information in their towing guides, but they also make it difficult to determine precisely how much any given truck is rated to tow because they have so many different towing package configurations. I haven't dug into a GM or Ram towing guide to see if they also specify derating the GVW & GCW at elevation, but it makes me question what tricks every manufacturer is using to rate their half-ton truck towing capacity as they constantly try to one-up one another.

 

[jbaucom]

Don't forget to join mustang club of america for 25 bucks and get x plan pricing, saves you 2-4 k.

Ford shareholders who hold 100 shares for at least 6 months are also eligible for X-Plan pricing. You just have to contact investor relations with 6 months of statements to prove the stock ownership, and they will issue a PIN.

 

[skrypj]

My 2.7 makes far more TQ than a stock 3.5 at any RPM ;-)

Also...have you tried talking to a performance shop that specializes in Ecoboost trucks? I'm betting a shop like Brew City Boost could offer some solid advice since they build them from the ground up and have to deal with the heat issue.

Do you have a tow tune and was your radiator fan activation temp ever lowered to match your new thermostat? I'm curious as to what a data log would reveal.

I had Brew City Boost tunes and they apparently don't know how to tune around altitude(my living room is at 6500') because my truck would try and close the waste gates at 4200 rpm and up with their tune. Luckily my wastegates were getting blown open by the exhaust pressure so the turbos didnt overspin, but the wastegate duty cycle would sit at 100% from 4200rpm to redline. This was on their MacGyver tune which is supposed to be the tow safe tune. It was bad enough that it threw a CEL for underboost at WOT. When I sent them a log they "fixed it" but all it did was make it so the CEL didnt come on while still hitting 100% WGDC. I also have tunes from 5Star, Unleashed and Gearhead and no one elses tunes do that. They all cut boost when the turbos approach their flow limits like they should.

I am pretty sure the the 5Star tunes had lifted the exhaust temperature limits which resulted in my warping of not only a stock manifold but also CRP Full-Bore manifold that I replaced it with. I was one of the first people to warp a CRP manifold, but now we are seeing 3-4 guys on the forum with warped CRP's because of how piss poor the OEM manifold design was.

I am now on my own custom tune via HPTuners that leaves all the OEM safeties in place. All I have done is raised the ignition timing limits to allow for some more timing advance hoping this would lower my boost and fuel and reduce heat a bit. I am planning on running Boostane with 91 octane fuel to get it up to 94 octane any time I tow from now on. That way I get as much timing advance as I can get. My radiator fans are set to come on at 10* below stock to match the 180F Tstat.

 

[Deleted member 9101]

I had Brew City Boost tunes and they apparently don't know how to tune around altitude(my living room is at 6500') because my truck would try and close the waste gates at 4200 rpm and up with their tune. Luckily my wastegates were getting blown open by the exhaust pressure so the turbos didnt overspin, but the wastegate duty cycle would sit at 100% from 4200rpm to redline. This was on their MacGyver tune which is supposed to be the tow safe tune. It was bad enough that it threw a CEL for underboost at WOT. When I sent them a log they "fixed it" but all it did was make it so the CEL didnt come on while still hitting 100% WGDC. I also have tunes from 5Star, Unleashed and Gearhead and no one elses tunes do that. They all cut boost when the turbos approach their flow limits like they should.

I am pretty sure the the 5Star tunes had lifted the exhaust temperature limits which resulted in my warping of not only a stock manifold but also CRP Full-Bore manifold that I replaced it with. I was one of the first people to warp a CRP manifold, but now we are seeing 3-4 guys on the forum with warped CRP's because of how piss poor the OEM manifold design was.

I am now on my own custom tune via HPTuners that leaves all the OEM safeties in place. All I have done is raised the ignition timing limits to allow for some more timing advance hoping this would lower my boost and fuel and reduce heat a bit. I am planning on running Boostane with 91 octane fuel to get it up to 94 octane any time I tow from now on. That way I get as much timing advance as I can get. My radiator fans are set to come on at 10* below stock to match the 180F Tstat.

Well damn man... I'm at a loss.