As I continue my slow trek south, I paused in New Bern, North Carolina, to visit an old friend and explore the area. Founded in 1710 by Swiss settlers, it's the "daughter city" of Bern, Switzerland. The downtown exudes rich colonial history the moment you step onto its streets - quaint restaurants, cafes, art galleries, and antique shops abound. We toured the magnificent Tryon Palace, its surrounding museums, impressive architecture, and stunning gardens. Full-time travel keeps delivering these surprises: places you've never heard of that make you think, "Why didn't I come here years ago?"
We devoted a full day to Tryon Palace and its grounds. The highlight was a one-hour guided tour led by docents in period dress who brought the place to life. It reminded me of Colonial Williamsburg - similar feel, but on a much more manageable scale (Williamsburg needs 3–5 days). In the upper-left photo, you'll see the handsome horse stalls; I have a weakness for fine old wood, brick, and craftsmanship. The other three shots show interior details, where our guide did an excellent job explaining daily life for the household and servants.
Built 1767–1770, Tryon Palace stood as North Carolina's first fixed colonial capital and home to Royal Governor William Tryon - under the reign of George III, a king whose House of Hanover was unequivocally German in origin. The dynasty originated in Hanover, Germany, and ascended the British throne in 1714 with George I, a German elector chosen over closer Catholic heirs. This German royal line governed Britain (and its colonies) for nearly two centuries, with George III himself holding dual roles as British sovereign and ruler of the German Electorate of Hanover. Tryon departed for New York in 1771; Josiah Martin followed until his 1775 escape at revolution's outbreak. Patriots then used the Palace as the new state's capitol, hosting foundational General Assembly meetings. The monarchy's deep German ancestry persisted; only in 1917 did King George V rename the house from Saxe-Coburg and Gotha (another German branch) to Windsor to quell wartime anti-German sentiment.
When Governor Martin fled in 1775, he left behind most of his fine furniture. The revolutionaries auctioned it off, using proceeds to fund the war effort. Many pieces ended up with local families. Today, a few originals from Martin's household - along with items tied to first state governor Richard Caswell - have been returned or replicated in their proper places. On tour, you can spot them if you know what to look for; it's a tangible link to that chaotic transition.
Tryon Palace holds a strong collection of 18th- and 19th-century furniture - mostly English, with American examples from New England, Mid-Atlantic, and select North Carolina pieces (heavy on New Bern/Craven County). The American items relate mainly to Josiah Martin's time (1771–1775). A former New York-based officer who married his first-cousin, he included pieces like a Chippendale mahogany desk, pierced-back chair, and large eight-legged dining table - possibly auctioned in 1777 and acquired by Caswell.
The grand staircase was a showpiece - crafted from costly West Indian mahogany that ran 600 pounds (24–30 times an average North Carolinian's annual wage). It highlights the stark class divide: this ornate "canal lever" design (a sophisticated engineering feature) welcomed guests and displayed power, while servants used hidden, steep "lesser stairs." The design literally separated worlds; the social engineering is as evident as the joinery.
This view from a second-floor window shows the well-kept neighborhood - fresh paint, tidy yards, classic homes in fine shape. It was cold and rainy, but we made the most of it and enjoyed ourselves. My bird-savvy friend noticed external bird-themed architecture, which launched us into a lengthy talk about homing pigeons, doves, herons, falconry, and related topics. Always good to have company with specialized knowledge.
The Kitchen Office (first floor: kitchen, scullery, wash house, secretary workspace; second: servants' chambers and laundry) was cutting-edge for 1770 - modern conveniences of the day. It still feels primitive now, but the sights, sounds, and smells of 18th-century cooking are vivid. Daily period dishes use garden produce. The clock jack and weight stood out - similarities to the micro-mechanical timepieces I collect from Switzerland and Germany. Solid engineering for its era.
The North Carolina History Center offers rotating exhibits, interactive displays, waterfront dining, and shopping - aimed at freshening the historic experience. It covers coastal formation to regional shaping. In my view, though, it's a misallocation of funds. After days of classic craftsmanship and quiet elegance, I found it disappointing: stark modern exterior, disjointed interior design, and heavy emphasis on environmental warnings and certain groups' contributions - while downplaying others. The bright colors and constant music felt overwhelming. I shared my thoughts politely on the way out - gentlemanly disagreement is still possible.
Let's close with Tryon’s Latham Garden; a classic formal English-style parterre - flowers, clipped hedges, pathways - evoking 18th-century Britain. Overall, 16+ acres in colonial revival design (1950s, Morley Jeffers Williams) include patterned formal gardens, heirloom blends, a kitchen garden with heritage herbs/vegetables, pollinator-friendly natural areas, and three period houses with distinct themes: camellia-focused lawn, white-themed Georgian, and Southern-style Victorian. A peaceful, well-executed landscape.
