2500HD Service body

SDplinker

New member
New to overlanding and pickups in general. I was probably leaning toward Toyota but due to price and some other considerations I’m looking at full size domestics. Found a place in town that sells former fleet vehicles. Something like this seems perfect. Thoughts? Only picking Chevy because there seem to be a bazillion of them and parts are cheap. Targeting 1999-2006 based on long term reliability data. Thanks!

 

XJLI

Adventurer
That price seems a bit high for a service truck, you can find privately owned trucks for a similar price that probably have been worked less.

Anyway, 99-06 Chevys (1/2, 3/4, doesn't matter) are simple, reliable, and very few issues... all of which are extremely well documented. Very underrated platform. Some people say the 6.0 is a dog, but for the time period and what it is, it's perfectly adequate. If you're going to be fully loaded or towing all the time, the 8.1 is better. How do you plan on using it? DD and weekend rig? Full time camper? Family hauler? Depending on what you need it for, theres a GMT800 truck our trim that is perfect for it.
 

vintageracer

To Infinity and Beyond!
The truck you reference above is in VERY NICE condition for a fleet truck. Apparently lot's of recon by the dealer.

4WD, 6.0, extended cab, nice utility box what's not to like?

A little negotiating and you might have a very nice start to your dream.
 

SDplinker

New member
Thoughts on 1500 vs 2500? I guess I'm torn on what I want. As a homeowner, having a pickup truck is useful for many reasons. But for mild 4x4 adventures, an older Toyota seems better. I could have both but don't have room or time right now. I guess I'm leaning toward the truck utility.

So I guess:

  1. When shopping for a used Chevy - particular setup you like and why?
  2. the 2wd are cheaper and fulfill the homeowner duty but pretty much put them out of the running for overland
  3. Service body/fleet - I figured it meant they were probably maintained well but yes, they may have been worked. The service beds just seem like such a cool storage-ready platform that folks pay 2-5x for to build themselves.
  4. Should I be looking at a different full size - these seem good within the price range. Looked at Tundras too but they are pricier.
  5. Also have considered a 2500 Suburban - but the idea of putting junkyard runs and mulch etc in the back seems problematic. A co-worker suggested a trailer which is a good idea.

Thanks - appreciate the feedback.
 

Pacific Northwest yetti

Expedition Medic
Depends a lot on what you will be doing, and the final goal. Personally if you are thinking mych weight, gear, or camper set up id stay with the 2500-3500 Single rear HD. Being over loaded is way worse, and will lead to premature wear and tear, being under loaded rarely a bad thing...

Check the extended cabs, the have a little more trouble with the doors. ( all this really means is it may need the seals replaced , easy to do ). As the seals wear out, the doors can rattle, the rattle can cause the inner latches to break. As long as you keep the doors tight, I wouod be surprised if it became an issue.

These are good underrated trucks. My 6.0 is going on 250k miles, and I dont hesitate to drive it across country. These rigs hold their value pretty well considering, but it was a sweet spot and people have figured that out.

My entire Family drives these, 10 with the same body style in differing configurations. I am pretty well acquainted with them. My brother drive his to Argentina, with out much issue.
 

SDplinker

New member
What's a decent 2-4" lift for these? Or should I just go big tires? I wouldn't rock crawl. All I see are what I perceive to be bro-dozer type lifts using cheapo components. Are there solid Fox, King, Icon etc setups?
 
33” tires (skinny is better IMO) and very minimal torsion bar crank. Don’t go wild, keep it as close to stock as possible. The service body is a great idea. I’ve considered a style line (very low) height service body with either a taller aluminum shell or an FWC/ATC camper on back as a just about perfect setup for me. They’re good trucks.
 

vintageracer

To Infinity and Beyond!
4WD and AWD always adds value and cost to the purchase price. That cost is most always recovered when you sell that 4WD or AWD vehicle. It's all in peoples head that they "Think" they must have 4WD or AWD and as such they are willing to pay extra for it therefore on the used market it can make a significant difference in cost/price versus a 2WD vehicle of the same make, model, condition and mileage when purchasing and selling. Many times far more than the extra you paid to buy the 4WD/AWD option in the first place.

If you are going to buy a used truck buy a real truck that is a 2500 or 3500 versus a "Car with a Bed" 1500 PU truck. Yes the reality is that a 1500 PU "Meats" most folks needs most of the time that's why they sell so many. I am of the opinion that if you are going to buy a truck buy a more capable truck for all situations and that's a 2500 or 3500 model.

Suburban's/Yukon XL's are nice vehicles for travel, hauling the kids and groceries. Not so much for hauling big dirty things, mulch and wood. Nice vehicle when equipped for the trail however the size will limit to some degree where you can go on the trail although no worse than an equivalent PU.

I currently own all of the above and more. The least used of the our truck fleet is my wife's Dodge 1500 Crew Cab 4WD PU with less than 3000 miles added in the last 2 years. Pretty stupid HUH? It's her truck so hands off and don't worry about it! That's what she tells me. Other than this 1500 Dodge any other 1500 PU I have ever purchased over the years was purchased strictly for resale.

The Chevy's are good PU's. We just sold my daughters daily driver 2001 2500 HD crew cab 6.0 truck with 367K on the original engine 4 months ago to a great personal friend for his wife to use as yard sale truck. The truck ran great with no issues or problems. It's hard to beat that 6.0 LS engine for longevity and power.
 

Pacific Northwest yetti

Expedition Medic
I am running 33's with no lift- and some inner fender trimming. You can get differing torsion keys, and an add a leaf of you really wanted to do so. Links probably in my thread, and I have an ICON stage two- I like it, but you can get 3 inch remote Kings for cheaper and they are also a great shock.

for the first 200k miles i did not put anything on it to lift it. Recently i added new torsion keys, and an add a leaf in the rear to get my stock height back, as 200k miles of farming and ranching is hard on things.

edit- I also have a bully dog programmer and cold air intake.
 
D

Deleted member 9101

Guest
If you are going to buy a used truck buy a real truck that is a 2500 or 3500 versus a "Car with a Bed" 1500 PU truck. Yes the reality is that a 1500 PU "Meats" most folks needs most of the time that's why they sell so many. I am of the opinion that if you are going to buy a truck buy a more capable truck for all situations and that's a 2500 or 3500 model.

You are definitely not the first person that I have heard/seen give that advice (especially on this forum) ... I always counter it with the convenient fact that I have never once actually needed a 3/4 ton or larger truck for my personal use. The same can be said for 4wd/AWD.

(Also, newer 1/2 tons are rated to eaily haul what yesterdays 3/4 ton trucks struggled to drag down the HW. )
 

vintageracer

To Infinity and Beyond!
You are definitely not the first person that I have heard/seen give that advice (especially on this forum) ... I always counter it with the convenient fact that I have never once actually needed a 3/4 ton or larger truck for my personal use. The same can be said for 4wd/AWD.

That's YOU and I also said this in the next sentence:

"Yes the reality is that a 1500 PU "Meats" most folks needs most of the time that's why they sell so many."

4WD/AWD is still the BEST BARGAIN/VALUE OF ANY OPTION you can buy on any NEW truck/SUV/car. $2K-$3K kills the extra cost of 4WD/AWD on most new vehicles and generally brings much more money than it cost new when the vehicle is sold on the used market when compared to the selling price of an exact same make, model and condition 2WD vehicle.

Every week at Manheim and other wholesale auctions of used vehicles I see USED 4WD/AWD trucks, SUV's and car's sell for MORE and with many vehicles FAR MORE than $2K-$3K extra that 4WD/AWD cost new versus the selling price of an exact same condition and mileage 2WD vehicle of the same make and model.

4WD/AWD is where the market is going on many vehicles and it's reflected in the selling price of those same vehicles used in today's automotive marketplace.
 
D

Deleted member 9101

Guest
That's YOU and I also said this in the next sentence:

"Yes the reality is that a 1500 PU "Meats" most folks needs most of the time that's why they sell so many."

4WD/AWD is still the BEST BARGAIN/VALUE OF ANY OPTION you can buy on any NEW truck/SUV/car. $2K-$3K kills the extra cost of 4WD/AWD on most new vehicles and generally brings much more money than it cost new when the vehicle is sold on the used market when compared to the selling price of an exact same make, model and condition 2WD vehicle.

Every week at Manheim and other wholesale auctions of used vehicles I see USED 4WD/AWD trucks, SUV's and car's sell for MORE and with many vehicles FAR MORE than $2K-$3K extra that 4WD/AWD cost new versus the selling price of an exact same condition and mileage 2WD vehicle of the same make and model.

4WD/AWD is where the market is going on many vehicles and it's reflected in the selling price of those same vehicles used in today's automotive marketplace.


4WD/AWD cost more to buy, insure, maintain, and repair... in addition to it decreasing your fuel economy. It's in no way an investment.
 

vintageracer

To Infinity and Beyond!
I did not say 4WD was an investment.

4wd is an expenditure just like anything else you buy.

I said it is a BARGAIN!

4WD/AWD can turn out to be an good "Investment" when the added value the option can bring to your vehicle helps you sell that 4WD/AWD equipped vehicle for "Mo Money" than your originally paid for that option then yes it could be considered an "Investment" as you gained a profit above your original expenditure!
 

TXBK

New member
What's a decent 2-4" lift for these? Or should I just go big tires? I wouldn't rock crawl. All I see are what I perceive to be bro-dozer type lifts using cheapo components. Are there solid Fox, King, Icon etc setups?

I have an 04’ with the 6.0, but it is the light duty 2500. I always ran 285/75/16 Toyo MT’s with no suspension adjustment of any kind, it it went everywhere I needed to go. It was abused from day one , and it performed remarkably well for how I treated it. I experienced transfer case pump rub and electrical gremlins.
 

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