33"s with stock gearing?

[Box Rocket]

Sorry about the derail of the thread. I know the original question was about 33's and gearing, not fitting a certain size of tires.

 

[MaverickTRD]

If you're driving around on surface streets and hitting the bump stops regularly, something is wrong. A suspension lift helps with tire clearance because driving around casually there is simply more space before it is stuffed in the wheel well. This also raises the frame height which is important when wheeling.

Furthermore, you're assuming that a lift is going to have the same length shock as before, and that the suspension is going to be able to fully compress which is not always true. Sometimes you can end up gaining down travel and shock length can limit up travel. Or as mentioned new bump stops etc.

Fact is, a lift does allow better fitment for larger tires. Just because full compression could potentially be the same location in the fender, doesn't mean its just as easy to moderatly wheel or fit a tire with zero lift. sure 33s are going to rub when you're wheeling hard and getting as much travel as you can lifted or not, but that is not daily driving type activity. and usually by that point people start grabbing the BFH or saw and creating more clearance.

 

[montypower]

Everybody's opinion and experience is different.

Here's the deal: 33s will rub lifted or not. True, you can "get away" with less rubbing on the street and level ground with a suspension lift. But seriously, why install 33s to drive on the street? Stock wheels and skinny 33s seem to fit the best on the 1st gen Tacos but most will still rub on the frame at full steering lock. Body lift, trimming/cutting fenders or limiting compression travel is the only other real fix.

A tire "fitting" to me means: it can travel the entire suspension range/motion with full steering capability without rubbing anywhere just like the manufacturer designed it. There's nothing wrong with running 33s or larger tires if you do it properly.

Also: Braking, Steering and Acceleration will be impacted with any tires larger than stock. Can you "get away" with it? Sure. You will need to exercise greater caution while driving though.

There is a very noticeable difference in driving performance between 33s and 31/32s.

 

[cr500taco]

Your truck looks good with 31s! You can go to 32s with no modifications. You'll need wheel spacers (or new wheels) and a little front fender hammering and trimming to fit the 33s. Not a big deal to do that. My biggest regret going to 33s was the loss of stearing feel with the spacers and bigger rubber. First gens are peppy, fun little trucks to drive, and lossing feel somewhat diminished my driving enjoyment on the road. If you're going to use 33s for wheeling go for it. But you can get real far out there on 32s.

I agree. I was thinking that, myself yesterday. I looked into the BFG All Terrains and they are only available in a 11.5' wide requiring 8"-10" wide wheel. My wheels are stock and if I remember correctly, they are 7" wide, so I would need to get new wheels that are wider for the 32s. I think, that I am going to stick with the 31s for now, until after I get the suspension they way I want it with new springs all around and re-gear. I do like the peppiness of it the way it is, so I don't want to loose it by getting the 33s without re-gearing.

 

[cr500taco]

Sorry about the derail of the thread. I know the original question was about 33's and gearing, not fitting a certain size of tires.

No problem Box Rocket. I would have expected it on TacomaWorld or Pirate4X4.

 

[Milo902]

I'm not saying that just because you have x amount of lift, you can fit x tire. I also understand how the suspension works and that a tire will rub whether lifted or not. All I can say is that I put 33's on my Tacoma with stock suspension and it was totally undriveable unless I did some serious cutting and/or hammering of the firewall. I mean it wouldn't even leave the driveway. Once the mild lift was installed, the tires fit with very little rubbing and it was completely driveable and that was before any cutting or smashing of the firewall.
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I get the whole concept of once the suspension gets to the bumpstop its at the bumpstop and a 33" tire is going to contact more than a 31" tire in the same scenario. But your comments are misleading that a suspension lift doesn't help in fitting larger tires. They do. Is there still more involved that just slapping on a lift and big tires....absolutely, but I guarantee that the amount of cutting/hammering involved to fit a large tire on a truck with no lift is going to be more than it will be to fit the same tire with a lift.

Bottom line is the lift helped to fit the same tire that was not possible before the lift. Scientific facts/principles be gone. Real world application doesn't *always* align.

Fair enough. A lift will absolutely help bigger tires rub less, but if you intend to use all of your suspension travel, the end result is the same lifted or not. I think a lot of it comes down to the definition of "fit." For me, a tire fits when you can fully cycle the suspension lock to lock w/o rubbing, hence the clarification.

 

[Milo902]

If you're driving around on surface streets and hitting the bump stops regularly, something is wrong. A suspension lift helps with tire clearance because driving around casually there is simply more space before it is stuffed in the wheel well. This also raises the frame height which is important when wheeling.

Furthermore, you're assuming that a lift is going to have the same length shock as before, and that the suspension is going to be able to fully compress which is not always true. Sometimes you can end up gaining down travel and shock length can limit up travel. Or as mentioned new bump stops etc.

Fact is, a lift does allow better fitment for larger tires. Just because full compression could potentially be the same location in the fender, doesn't mean its just as easy to moderatly wheel or fit a tire with zero lift. sure 33s are going to rub when you're wheeling hard and getting as much travel as you can lifted or not, but that is not daily driving type activity. and usually by that point people start grabbing the BFH or saw and creating more clearance.

I guess I was exaggerating a bit when I said regularly, but using all of my available suspension travel on surface streets isn't exactly difficult. Nothing wrong w/ the ride ('96 4runner w/ Icons f&r) but the nut behind the wheel may be a different story. Although it takes a sizable "hit" to bottom out my front coilovers, a sharp edged pothole or rock can do it pretty quickly. When I was on stock suspension, bottoming was a pretty regular occurrence, but I drive like an *** on rough roads. Also, you can fully compress your suspension without a harsh hit of the bump stops.

w/ regards to suspension fully compressing or shock length, I was mainly referring to the front end on Tacomas/4runners/FJ Cruisers. They don't have that much travel and using it all isn't that rare of an occurrence. If the shock limits your up travel, you will be buying new shocks in short order. I stand by my claim, slapping on a coilover just makes it rub less, but does nothing to change weather the tire actually "fits." For the tire to actually fit, options include body lift, bracket lift, extended bump stops, wheel spacers, aftermarket arms/long travel, fiberglass fenders, BFH, or any combination thereof.

I don't really get going through the expense and drawbacks of fitting larger tires and not creating clearance for their biggest advantage, offroad driving.

Sorry for the side track, but there is a difference between minimizing the rubbing, and the tire fitting properly. (insert obligatory link to Expeditions West Tacoma here http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bfg_mt_km.html)

 

[Box Rocket]

Fair enough. A lift will absolutely help bigger tires rub less, but if you intend to use all of your suspension travel, the end result is the same lifted or not. I think a lot of it comes down to the definition of "fit." For me, a tire fits when you can fully cycle the suspension lock to lock w/o rubbing, hence the clarification.

A Tacoma with larger tires that rub the frame is solved easily with a wheel with more offset than stock. And most people aren't averse to minor trimming of a plastic fender liner.
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I'm clearly NOT using all of my suspension travel with my 33's, and I can only go in a straight line because I can't steer.

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You can keep your stock suspension and small tires and have fun on graded dirt roads. Some of us actually explore some other places where modifications away from factory actually help.....and work.

 

[Box Rocket]

and for the record, those pics are with 33x12.50s on 15x8 wheels (I'm unsure of the offset since the wheels were on the truck when I bought it). 2.5" OME suspension, No body lift, no change in bumpstops and only slight trimming of the fender liner and flattening the pinch weld (which needs to be done with anything other than a 31" or smaller tire). No rubbing of the firewall or the frame. But who am I kidding, those are extreme mods apparently to force a tire to fit where it has no business being.

 

[Milo902]

I apologize I'm not the best at conveying my opinion through written word so I may have been misunderstood. I wasn't arguing against bigger tires, only that one should go through the extra effort to ensure they work under all reasonable suspension conditions and a standard IFS lift doesn't really change those conditions. Your truck is a great example of properly fitting larger tires via aftermarket wheels, trimming, and hammering of the pinch weld.

All I'm trying to say is take that OME 2.5" lift off and stuff the factory springs back under it, they will fit just the same. The suspension is the first thing I upgraded on my 4Runner (after some basic maintenance) and it was worth every penny.

 

[01tundra]

You can keep your stock suspension and small tires and have fun on graded dirt roads.

Oh....you just had to go there didn't ya....someday I'm going to follow you up the worst trail you can find with my little, skinny, girly tires

 

[Box Rocket]

Oh....you just had to go there didn't ya....someday I'm going to follow you up the worst trail you can find with my little, skinny, girly tires

And I'd have no problem having you along for the ride. You let me know when and I'm in. Seriously. I know you'll embarrass me the whole way too. I'd happily learn from you.
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I have nothing against "nearly stock" trucks and believe they are capable of anything that my truck is. Nor do I have a problem with skinny girly tires. I started with 33x1050s on this truck. I just get mildly annoyed by internet "theory" and information that says "this won't work" or "this is the only way to do x" especially when real life says otherwise.

I apologize to all in this thread for my part in leading down a deadend muddy track. You too Milo. I know better but my keyboard can get the best of me sometimes.

 

[MaverickTRD]

I think I've done okay clearancing 35s and 32s

 

[Clutch]

You can keep your stock suspension and small tires and have fun on graded dirt roads. Some of us actually explore some other places where modifications away from factory actually help.....and work.

Didn't Toyota drag a stock 4Runner down the Rubicon...?

If you don't care about smashing the body panels...you can make a stock vehicle go a lot of places.

 

[Milo902]

We all know rentals make the best offroad vehicles, especially if you have a few friends along to help push.