3rd Gen Toyota Pickup - Budget Expo Build

Nitinat

Adventurer
I have been following your Facebook page and have seen that you get new stuff all the time (i.e. maxtrax, hellas etc.) - are you getting all that stuff for free? Or you just saying "Thank you" them for shipping items in one piece?

If free would you mind sharing secrets on how to? :)

Thanks!
 

DeskToGlory

Adventurer
I have been following your Facebook page and have seen that you get new stuff all the time (i.e. maxtrax, hellas etc.) - are you getting all that stuff for free? Or you just saying "Thank you" them for shipping items in one piece?

If free would you mind sharing secrets on how to? :)

Thanks!


Hey Nitinat, in some cases we have asked for demo/damaged products at a discount and they have offered to ship new gear for free. In other cases we've come up with agreements with the companies to either decal up the truck, produce photos/videos for their website, etc in return for a discount or donation of parts. Check out our "Supporters" page on our website for more details.

There's definitely work on our part in return, but overall the companies associated with offroading and overlanding have been super generous. All we had to do was make contact with them and at least gave them the chance to offer their services. It's a fantastic community! We honestly wouldn't be able to afford to go on our trip with a lot of help. Hopefully we can help the people that supported us in return!

I'll have a more detailed "how-to" on our blog in the future, so stay tuned! ;)
 

DeskToGlory

Adventurer
And in case anybody is wondering, I'm sitting at about $2300 total "investment" into the truck so far. If we weren't planning the big trip I would probably stop now and just drive it... :smiley_drive:
 

RedSR

New member
Brazil uses E85, almost straight ethanol. How will the 22R/E engine roll on that?

The thing with E85 is not so much an issue with how engines run on it (though w/ more oxygen atoms per molecule it does run hotter than straight gasoline) and it has higher octane but that only matters if your engine is tuned specifically for higher octane (when it goes to lower octane gasoline it could knock and require a timing adjustment), but rather what it does to your fuel system.

Ethanol by nature is a corrosive solvent (and that's why with the addition of ethanol and elimination of MTBE in American fuel that from the point ethanol is introduced into the gasoline blend, fuel must be trucked rather than shipped through pipelines like it used to be). Corrosive to metal insofar as it is hydrophillic (attracts water) and corrosive to rubber and plastic compounds insofar as it has a tendency to dissolve them -- most European and Japanese made vehicles still do not build fuel systems for E15 being pushed by special interests and the EPA, let alone E85 as it requires all sorts of special compounds for rubber components throughout your fuel deliver system and engine ("Chrysler Group LLC, Ford Motor Company, Toyota Motor Corporation, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Honda Motor Company, Hyundai Motor Company, Kia Motors Corporation, Mazda Motor Corporation, Nissan Motor Company, Volkswagen AG and Volvo Car Corporation have all written letters of protest, and some have gone so far as to say use of E15 may void vehicle warranties." http://www.thecarconnection.com/news/1062743_twelve-automakers-oppose-epas-e15-fuel-proposal -- and actually, only Ford and GM have signed off on an E15 blend, and they're the same ones making the E85 flex fuel vehicles too). E85 might also be a problem with those usign tank sealer kits to fix leaks instead of putting new metal tanks in too. Also w/ E85 it's good to use a fuel stabilizer specifically made for it if keeping it in your tank for more than a week or two. W/ E85 you really never want to run your tank less than 1/4 full as it typically has even more water in the tank than standard gasoline.

For Rich and his new engine, it might make sense to run a good fuel injector cleaner like Redline through his system on the tank or two before entering Brazil to minimize any damage as well as possibly a good upper intake cleaner like Amsoil's power foam (stuff works much better than seafoam). But if replacing all soft lines on his system, possibly putting in a new fuel tank, a new fuel pump, and a rebuilt engine, he should be good for the time he's travelling. But if wanting to bite the bullet, I guess he could fill a tank w/ E85 in the states and see what happens...

In regards to fuel filter clogging, problems w/ fuel pump, etc, ethanol at high concentrations has a tendency to clean all the varnish and other petroleum sludge out of your fuel lines and clog fuel filters, fuel injectors, etc.

Nasty stuff for vehicles not made for it.
 
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RedSR

New member
And was reminded why we're dropping a fresh 22RE into this thing... just a few kms. I picked up a set of AutoGage gauges (water temp, oil press, volts) and a tach as the stock gauges and idiot lights leave something to be desired.

9406744592_ca4916eeb5_c.jpg

FWIW, you can swap out for an SR5 cluster with most of the gauges you need for just the cluster and a new oil pressure gauge sending unit (~$50). It's very straight forward. You just need to know whether your speedometer is cable or electronic and get the appropriate gauge cluster. Otherwise, you're good to go. IMHO, that route is a cleaner install and way easier than tapping a bunch of wires/routing wires/adding extra sensors for external gauges...

Here's a pic of the cluster:
IMG_2619800x600.jpg


And here's a writeup:
http://www.yotatech.com/f116/sr5-gauge-cluster-swap-how-pics-179106/
 

RedSR

New member
That new suspension looks really nice. Noted that you missed your steering damper in your product listing (maybe intentionally as it's steering, but noticed it in the pic). With larger tires, the OME damper makes a huge difference -- that's the only OME part I have on my rig and am very happy with it.

You'll really like your SR5 seats too. The factory center console is handy, but not ideal for overlanding due to no ability to secure anything in it. Something like this one would be ideal: http://www.tuffyproducts.com/p-122-samurai-security-console.aspx I think 6" is the largest you can fit without moving the seats.

In regards to your facebook post, for tie rod ends, I'm happy w/ the Deeza I'm running on my rig. Larger ball joints by at least 50% (I'll add pics later today), come w/ Zerks ready to install (drilled holes and zerks, you have to screw in and will want to add grease), and very thick/durable dust boots. I really like Blazeland's tie rod sleeve. Factory Toyota is about 1/8" steel and leaves a lot to be desired. Aftermarket ones are even flimsier.

For Pitman arm, the Raybestos Professional parts are 555 (OEM), and the new 555 come with a removable greasable zerk -- just don't screw it in all the way or it'll get stuck and you have to take it out or it could snap off under front end flex if turning the wheel.

For idler arm, you might want to buy the AC Delco or whatever one you can install the metal bushings in. Blazeland also makes a brace pre-welded for that one as well. I have 555 for idler arm and would have done differently if I was better informed at time of purchase. It's better than most, but the metal bushings are a great value added option.
 
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DeskToGlory

Adventurer
Yes, the steering damper is a OME SD33 Steering Stabilizer.

I did consider the SR5 gauge swap but decided on the AutoMeter gauges for their accuracy. For example, I'd rather know that the engine is running at 210 degrees than just knowing it's running 'hot'. I definitely agree that the SR5 cluster would make for a cleaner install though!
 
J

JWP58

Guest
I second the autometer gauges. The stock ones suck. I'm even considering adding aftermarket gauges, an A-pillar mount would be nice.

Do you plan to add something like an ARB air locker in the rear?
 

DeskToGlory

Adventurer
I second the autometer gauges. The stock ones suck. I'm even considering adding aftermarket gauges, an A-pillar mount would be nice.

Do you plan to add something like an ARB air locker in the rear?

Plus you can't beat the value of the AutoGage line. I've run these in many vehicles and never had a bad experience. I expect these will get mounted quite simply under the stereo in our truck, but a pillar mount would be awesome!

If time and budget allows I'd like to install something like the Spartan locker. They're simple to install, fairly inexpensive, and although we'll be carrying quite a bit of weight should be strong enough for the little 32" tires. I'm okay running open diffs if needed, but a locking rear would give me a lot more confidence off the beaten path. This is on my "If I install a new centersection or put rebuild mine then I may as well install a locker" to-do list.
 

sjxj

Observer
Watching this build pretty intensely, and loving how it's working out for you.

Couple of questions:
If you've even completed it yet, do you have any pictures of the gauge install? Just curious on how it looks - I have a 1990 Pickup with the SR5 cluster swap. But, like you, I've still wanted a little more specific visual communication with my truck.

What year 4Runner did you pull the seats from? I'm interested in a swap for the bench I've got now, and want to find some seats that'll fit with no modifications. I assume these fit, no problem, bolt for bolt?

Keep up the good work. Now, I've got to get back to work.

Thanks, Steve.
 

DeskToGlory

Adventurer
Watching this build pretty intensely, and loving how it's working out for you.

Couple of questions:
If you've even completed it yet, do you have any pictures of the gauge install? Just curious on how it looks - I have a 1990 Pickup with the SR5 cluster swap. But, like you, I've still wanted a little more specific visual communication with my truck.

What year 4Runner did you pull the seats from? I'm interested in a swap for the bench I've got now, and want to find some seats that'll fit with no modifications. I assume these fit, no problem, bolt for bolt?

Keep up the good work. Now, I've got to get back to work.

Thanks, Steve.

I believe the seats came out of a 1991 4Runner SR5. The passenger side bolted in by elongating the two back holes. The driver seat is currently bolted in with the "3 out of 4 ain't bad" method. I'll have to weld a short tab on the passenger-front to grab the last bolt hole. You could probably just drill a new hole for that last bolt if you didn't have access to a welder.

The gauges are not installed yet, but hopefully will be done this weekend... I also picked up a pair of fenders from Toyota Fiberglass and a used canopy that will get installed this weekend. Slowly but surely it's coming together! The 22RE should be ready for pick up at the end of the week...
 

RedSR

New member
In regards to your facebook post, for tie rod ends, I'm happy w/ the Deeza I'm running on my rig. Larger ball joints by at least 50% (I'll add pics later today), come w/ Zerks ready to install (drilled holes and zerks, you have to screw in and will want to add grease), and very thick/durable dust boots. I really like Blazeland's tie rod sleeve. Factory Toyota is about 1/8" steel and leaves a lot to be desired. Aftermarket ones are even flimsier.

Here's a link to the Deeza vs standard aftermarket TREs: http://www.yotatech.com/f116/frozen-tie-rod-joint-trick-269437/#post52106292

And I have Lumax zerk caps on my zerks, but I go through them pretty quickly. Probably not really necessary, unless you just like accessorizing. :elkgrin:
 

DeskToGlory

Adventurer
Progress!

Finally had another weekend to work on the truck...

Exhaust Install

  • 1.75" Walker Front Pipe - 31321
  • Walker 31321 Manifold Gaskets x2
  • 1.75" x 2.25" Walker Reducer
  • 2.25” Magnaflow Stainless Steel Universal Catalytic Convertor - 91005
  • 2.25” Magnaflow Stainless Steel Muffler – 13255
  • 2.25" x 10' Length of Straight Pipe
  • 2x Universal Muffler Hangers
  • 1x 1.75" Muffler Clamp
  • 4x 2.25" Muffler Clamps

I would have preferred to have a Doug Thorley Tri-Y header to 2.25" exhaust, but the budget wasn't having any of it. I replaced the front pipe with a Walker stock replacement pipe and adapted that to a 2.25" custom catback. All it took was a 10" offset (two 30 degree bends) in a length of pipe to connect the cat to the muffler. I'm running a short length of straight pipe out the back, but will need a small bend in it to clear the rear bumper that will eventually get built and installed.

For $210 we've got a new exhaust system that will flow better (and sound better) than stock. The truck is nice and quiet until you get on the wood.

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Gauge Install

  • AutoGage Gauge Kit - Autometer 2327
I had to cut out the bottom of the ashtray to mount the gauges here, but this really was the only option for a relatively clean install. I'll connect the gauges when I install the new motor.

9514490658_afcb3a995a_c.jpg


Fender Install

  • Toyota Fiberglass High Clearance Fenders
Corey from Toyota Fiberglass shipped us these High-Clearance fiberglass fenders on a rush so we could install them on the truck this weekend. I cleaned up the edges and the seam from where the molds come together and then drilled some holes to fit to mount these badboys. There was enough material left on the back edge of the fenders to massage the gaps just right. These fenders seem to fit better than repro stamped steel pieces I've used in the past!

9511707339_1e67109807_c.jpg


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We'll do a quickie paint job on them to match them to the truck. Oh yeah, we picked up a used canopy for cheap as well!

Next Time

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