RoundOut
Explorer
This photo is reserved for the really good movies. Two thumbs up! :sombrero: OK, sorry. I couldn't resist.
4307's Canadian Taco Build
- Thread starter 4307
- Start date
austintaco
Explorer
I agree with the shadow/light...two thumbs up.
4307
Adventurer
Well, I haven't updated this thread in quite some time. oops!
I have a few updates. mods and fixes. some of these mods and fixes are over a year and a half old, time flies.
CB install:
Update: So! I finally got around to installing my Uniden 520XL CB radio, with the K40 Antenna.
The new home for the radio is the former ashtray location. The install was pretty straight forward, a beer from Devlin helped the motivation (Thanks Rob!)
The coax and wires are now protected with the automotive snap on wire harness, plastic protector.
The coax was zip tied along the truck frame. The CB wires are fed through the fire wall electrical wiring grommet and hooked up directly to the battery terminal lugs.
There's an inline fuse, to protect the radio from overload.
The former ashtray location needed some modification:
Cutting some plastic, and using the wifes scrap booking heat gun, to heat up and bend, the vent duct plastic, to make more room for the antenna socket in the back of the radio.
The only reason I did this was to have a cleaner mounting position deeper in the dash, otherwise the radio will stick out a little farther then I would have liked. Bending the vent plastic didn't change the air flow at all, the bend wasn't that big. Although I may need to bend it a little more. If I can move the radio in .25'' more that would be perfect. Another option would be replacing the straight coax connector with a right angle connector.
I used 2 brackets from a Thule Load Warrior roof rack basket to make a mounting platform, a piece of flat bar aluminum to bridge the 2 brackets. It seems to work well, super solid and removable.
The Antenna location may change, not sure yet, I have another project up my sleeve.
The ground plane seems to be pretty good, I get good reception. I still need to recheck the tuning between channel 40 and channel 1. so I don't damage the radio.
I ran that setup for a while. The reception of the K40 and the roof rack location was fantastic. That being said, it had a few problems. First: the antenna would get whacked around by tree branches.. annoying. Second: It was a PITA to remove. I only use the antenna when I'm on a trip or wheeling.
I ditched the K40 and opted for a Firestick type whip. length is 48". I mounted it on the ARB bump, that way I can keep an eye on it. ( my K40 had a tendency to loosen and fall off )
It also acts like a truck height clearance gauge, when it comes to driving under tree branches.
The reception is really good. The antenna is mounted with a quick release, easy to reach, and less coax cable.
The odd time I'll squirt some dielectric grease in the quick release end on the antenna.
This is a pre tuned antenna.
I don't have the actual make or model #.... sorry.
I didn't like how the radio was sticking out from the dash. I swapped out the straight coax connector for a right angle connector. The radio now sits flush.
Added a ScanGuage II to monitor the truck. Really handy!
I also added a large digital numbers volt meter. Easy to quickly look at, cheap and simple. I think the make is Schumacher.
More to come...
I have a few updates. mods and fixes. some of these mods and fixes are over a year and a half old, time flies.
CB install:
Update: So! I finally got around to installing my Uniden 520XL CB radio, with the K40 Antenna.
The new home for the radio is the former ashtray location. The install was pretty straight forward, a beer from Devlin helped the motivation (Thanks Rob!)
The coax and wires are now protected with the automotive snap on wire harness, plastic protector.
The coax was zip tied along the truck frame. The CB wires are fed through the fire wall electrical wiring grommet and hooked up directly to the battery terminal lugs.
There's an inline fuse, to protect the radio from overload.
The former ashtray location needed some modification:
Cutting some plastic, and using the wifes scrap booking heat gun, to heat up and bend, the vent duct plastic, to make more room for the antenna socket in the back of the radio.
The only reason I did this was to have a cleaner mounting position deeper in the dash, otherwise the radio will stick out a little farther then I would have liked. Bending the vent plastic didn't change the air flow at all, the bend wasn't that big. Although I may need to bend it a little more. If I can move the radio in .25'' more that would be perfect. Another option would be replacing the straight coax connector with a right angle connector.
I used 2 brackets from a Thule Load Warrior roof rack basket to make a mounting platform, a piece of flat bar aluminum to bridge the 2 brackets. It seems to work well, super solid and removable.
The Antenna location may change, not sure yet, I have another project up my sleeve.
The ground plane seems to be pretty good, I get good reception. I still need to recheck the tuning between channel 40 and channel 1. so I don't damage the radio.
I ran that setup for a while. The reception of the K40 and the roof rack location was fantastic. That being said, it had a few problems. First: the antenna would get whacked around by tree branches.. annoying. Second: It was a PITA to remove. I only use the antenna when I'm on a trip or wheeling.
I ditched the K40 and opted for a Firestick type whip. length is 48". I mounted it on the ARB bump, that way I can keep an eye on it. ( my K40 had a tendency to loosen and fall off )
It also acts like a truck height clearance gauge, when it comes to driving under tree branches.
The reception is really good. The antenna is mounted with a quick release, easy to reach, and less coax cable.
The odd time I'll squirt some dielectric grease in the quick release end on the antenna.
This is a pre tuned antenna.
I don't have the actual make or model #.... sorry.
I didn't like how the radio was sticking out from the dash. I swapped out the straight coax connector for a right angle connector. The radio now sits flush.
Added a ScanGuage II to monitor the truck. Really handy!
I also added a large digital numbers volt meter. Easy to quickly look at, cheap and simple. I think the make is Schumacher.
More to come...
4307
Adventurer
Another addition...
A fire extinguisher and flashlight holder.
I was tired of the extinguisher and flashlight rolling around on the back seat floor.
I used 1/8 aluminum plate. The plate is mounted to the window frame using the frames existing mounting holes. It's pretty sturdy.
I used Quickfist clamps to hold the flashlight and fire extinguisher, these clamps are great.
here's my afternoon project...
A fire extinguisher and flashlight holder.
I was tired of the extinguisher and flashlight rolling around on the back seat floor.
I used 1/8 aluminum plate. The plate is mounted to the window frame using the frames existing mounting holes. It's pretty sturdy.
I used Quickfist clamps to hold the flashlight and fire extinguisher, these clamps are great.
here's my afternoon project...
4307
Adventurer
Weekend fix-it project....
After Ardbeg last season, my steering was funky. Wheeling Ardbeg did a number on the shear pins in my steering shaft.
Symptom: to much play in the steering, was able to move the steering wheel (left / right) about an inch before it would start to steer.. not good.
Last year I took it apart and added a small tack weld to the steering shaft slip yoke. The problem was solved.
That being said, My steering revealed a "click" when I turn over the wheel... really annoying!
I isolated the problem to the universal joint at the tilt steering. In order to fix the problem my steering column had to come out.
Before i get into it, I had a different problem. I was getting some vibrations in my steering and squirrelly steering response. So i did some investigating.
Look Sarah, no steering wheel....
Steering shaft assembly with column tube...
Steering shaft assembly... without column tube..
Steering shaft column tube....
Main steering shaft slip yoke, with nylon tilt steering ball....
This pic illustrates the tack weld I added to take the play out of the slip yoke, after the nylon pins sheared. The nylon pins can be seen beside the paint pen witness marks...
The clicking culprit, is the nylon universal joint, ball.
There is a gap between the 2 halves of the spring loaded nylon ball. As the steering wheel is turned the ball clicks, because the spring not doing a great job.
To tighten the ball in the joint, I added a plastic shim between the 2 halves of the ball.
Shim material... A replacement shield for my auto-dark on my welding helmet.
Nylon pivot ball parts with added shim stock...
Ball with the shim added....
The end result is amazing! the steering is so smooth tight and quiet, it feels more solid than the day I drove it off the lot.
While the steering column was removed, I had a look at the Universal joint at the fire wall and the lower intermediate joint (Rag joint).
The steering shaft seal at the fire wall was torn up. I need to replace that before I do any deep water crossings. you can see it in the pic.
I had discovered the bolts where loose (not falling out). I removed the lower steering shaft and tightened the bolts up. The bolt from the Intermediate joint connecting the steering rack (splined) was also loose.
Tightened everything up and reassembled the steering column.
Sorry no pics of the Rag Joint.
After piecing everything back together my steering wheel was off center. It's been off center since I replaced my steering rack bushings. My alignment is perfect, but the steering wheel was crooked....LOL! another PITA.
To solve the problem I simply removed the steering wheel with a puller and clocked the wheel to the center position.
The truck tracks straight, the steering wheel is centered, the "clicking" is gone
everything feels tight... it feels like a new truck! I'm really happy with this repair.
Another steering issue I had before the steering column started acting up, was excessive play in my steering, turning the steering wheel more then I should before I would get steering response. Annoying! At first I thought my steering rack was shot. Further examination I found the steering rack mounting bushings were shot. I replaced the bushings with Energy Bushings. Easy-ish install.
The end result was impressive.
Here's a 4x4wire.com writeup... http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/steering_bushing/
After Ardbeg last season, my steering was funky. Wheeling Ardbeg did a number on the shear pins in my steering shaft.
Symptom: to much play in the steering, was able to move the steering wheel (left / right) about an inch before it would start to steer.. not good.
Last year I took it apart and added a small tack weld to the steering shaft slip yoke. The problem was solved.
That being said, My steering revealed a "click" when I turn over the wheel... really annoying!
I isolated the problem to the universal joint at the tilt steering. In order to fix the problem my steering column had to come out.
Before i get into it, I had a different problem. I was getting some vibrations in my steering and squirrelly steering response. So i did some investigating.
Look Sarah, no steering wheel....
Steering shaft assembly with column tube...
Steering shaft assembly... without column tube..
Steering shaft column tube....
Main steering shaft slip yoke, with nylon tilt steering ball....
This pic illustrates the tack weld I added to take the play out of the slip yoke, after the nylon pins sheared. The nylon pins can be seen beside the paint pen witness marks...
The clicking culprit, is the nylon universal joint, ball.
There is a gap between the 2 halves of the spring loaded nylon ball. As the steering wheel is turned the ball clicks, because the spring not doing a great job.
To tighten the ball in the joint, I added a plastic shim between the 2 halves of the ball.
Shim material... A replacement shield for my auto-dark on my welding helmet.
Nylon pivot ball parts with added shim stock...
Ball with the shim added....
The end result is amazing! the steering is so smooth tight and quiet, it feels more solid than the day I drove it off the lot.
While the steering column was removed, I had a look at the Universal joint at the fire wall and the lower intermediate joint (Rag joint).
The steering shaft seal at the fire wall was torn up. I need to replace that before I do any deep water crossings. you can see it in the pic.
I had discovered the bolts where loose (not falling out). I removed the lower steering shaft and tightened the bolts up. The bolt from the Intermediate joint connecting the steering rack (splined) was also loose.
Tightened everything up and reassembled the steering column.
Sorry no pics of the Rag Joint.
After piecing everything back together my steering wheel was off center. It's been off center since I replaced my steering rack bushings. My alignment is perfect, but the steering wheel was crooked....LOL! another PITA.
To solve the problem I simply removed the steering wheel with a puller and clocked the wheel to the center position.
The truck tracks straight, the steering wheel is centered, the "clicking" is gone
everything feels tight... it feels like a new truck! I'm really happy with this repair.
Another steering issue I had before the steering column started acting up, was excessive play in my steering, turning the steering wheel more then I should before I would get steering response. Annoying! At first I thought my steering rack was shot. Further examination I found the steering rack mounting bushings were shot. I replaced the bushings with Energy Bushings. Easy-ish install.
The end result was impressive.
Here's a 4x4wire.com writeup... http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/steering_bushing/
4307
Adventurer
Long time ago, I posted my idea for a tire gate. I built the bumper and later added the tire gates (2)
I made 2 gates. Easy to remove and install design.
The first gate is designed for longer distance outings with lighter duty wheeling in mind. The gate incorporates a tire cradle design with fuel and water holders on the driver and passenger side. The gate itself looks heavier than it actually is.
Pics taken during the build.
I added a 3/16 bar steel to the post tower on the hinge side, to increase its strength. The bar steel is slightly ( /I ) acting like a buttress. After it was all welded up the hinge side is rock solid !!!
This pic shows fully loaded cans with tire. The cans weigh 45.5 lbs each.
The hinge tower is not fully welded in this pic, the 3/16" bar is tacked in place.
Bar steel clamped in place... Oh! and I can still remove the tail light.
Extra gusset added just below the tail light..
Earlier I pre-welded the threaded latch assembly. Not as quick to release as a latch, but 2, 1/2" grade 8 eye bolts add extra rigidness, and safety, since the gate is secure at 4 points, and bonus! no rattles.
The plate pieces on the gate will have gussets added. The second hole in the same plates, are to hold the bolt when the gate is open. I'm going to cut the bolts shorter, 3" of thread is a little much.
I picked an eye bolt so I can cinch it tight with a bar, and feed a bike lock through both eyes for security if need arises.
Another shot from the rear... no driver side spring sag :? the driveway isn't exactly depression free, the pic I took a few days ago the driver side looked really saggy...LOL
Still is, slightly, but like I mentioned before the springs are old and tired.
fully loaded gate clears the bumper with no sag. 3/8 clearance on both sides.
gate # 2.... tire only gate.
This will be my primary gate ( I like choices )
When fuel and 20L of water aren't needed, this gate fits the bill.
Now I can use the truck bed to pack my camp stuff into, rather than throwing gear on top of a spare, which made for shifting loads> I noticed that on the Muskoka run.
The plasma cutter came in handy cutting the steel for the wheel mounting plate
This gate is a taller gate, allowing me to mount the spare higher than the first gate, gives me more clearance without fuel / water cans.
The wheel mounting plate is angled back at 15*. This makes mounting and fastening nuts easier.
Towers are fully welded and super stiff.
I don't think I "need" bed side protection tied into the towers, the towers are that solid.
I'm still adding protection, like a railing.. more simple than originally planned. Hard to explain.
fitting the second gate...
The towers are primed waiting for paint, the second gate still needs hinges welded as well as the latch plates.
This project was way more work than I had originally thought, but it's going to be nice when it's all said and done... I get my bed back!
More to come.
Another update...
Yesterday the weather said evening thunderstorms, so to protect the bare steel, I used weld through zinc primer.
Finished up the gate hinge welds and latch plate welds. Added another gusset for the wheel mounting plate.
Managed to get a couple good coats of DOM16. Another coat tomorrow.
I painted the area around the towers, then realized i should paint the whole thing, but its still covered with dirt... LOL. I'll wash it down tomorrow then give it a good coat to freshen it up before it goes back on the truck.
I want to mount the license plate on the passenger side beside the tire, I'll fab a clamp-on disconnect bracket to remove and place when the gate isn't used.
Now the neighbors can live in silent peace, for a little while longer.
I've been wheeling this gate setup for over a year with zero issues. The latching system is great. I cinch the shortened "eye" bolts down with a breaker bar making it impossible to undo by hand. The eye bolts can be locked down. With the eye bolts cinched down the bumper/gate combo is super ridged, zero banging noise or flex. The eye bolts are a bit tedious to thread down (not a chore...LOL) but I like the secure feeling they provide and low cost design . I'm really happy with the gate and bumper.
When I daily drive, the tire gates are taken off. No real need to drive around town with more weight than I need. The gates easy enough to remove.
The bumper has taken a lot of abuse, recovers and takes rock abuse like a champ. Over time it's has been rusting at the scrapes and gouges. I'll get the whole thing sand blasted this spring and re painted. Again I'll repaint it with DOM-16, then rattle can a few top coats.
There are a few mods I want to add to the bumper like, rear quarter panel protection, open/close lock pin, air chuck mounts for my on board air setup (writeup to come).
I made 2 gates. Easy to remove and install design.
The first gate is designed for longer distance outings with lighter duty wheeling in mind. The gate incorporates a tire cradle design with fuel and water holders on the driver and passenger side. The gate itself looks heavier than it actually is.
Pics taken during the build.
I added a 3/16 bar steel to the post tower on the hinge side, to increase its strength. The bar steel is slightly ( /I ) acting like a buttress. After it was all welded up the hinge side is rock solid !!!
This pic shows fully loaded cans with tire. The cans weigh 45.5 lbs each.
The hinge tower is not fully welded in this pic, the 3/16" bar is tacked in place.
Bar steel clamped in place... Oh! and I can still remove the tail light.
Extra gusset added just below the tail light..
Earlier I pre-welded the threaded latch assembly. Not as quick to release as a latch, but 2, 1/2" grade 8 eye bolts add extra rigidness, and safety, since the gate is secure at 4 points, and bonus! no rattles.
The plate pieces on the gate will have gussets added. The second hole in the same plates, are to hold the bolt when the gate is open. I'm going to cut the bolts shorter, 3" of thread is a little much.
I picked an eye bolt so I can cinch it tight with a bar, and feed a bike lock through both eyes for security if need arises.
Another shot from the rear... no driver side spring sag :? the driveway isn't exactly depression free, the pic I took a few days ago the driver side looked really saggy...LOL
Still is, slightly, but like I mentioned before the springs are old and tired.
fully loaded gate clears the bumper with no sag. 3/8 clearance on both sides.
gate # 2.... tire only gate.
This will be my primary gate ( I like choices )
When fuel and 20L of water aren't needed, this gate fits the bill.
Now I can use the truck bed to pack my camp stuff into, rather than throwing gear on top of a spare, which made for shifting loads> I noticed that on the Muskoka run.
The plasma cutter came in handy cutting the steel for the wheel mounting plate
This gate is a taller gate, allowing me to mount the spare higher than the first gate, gives me more clearance without fuel / water cans.
The wheel mounting plate is angled back at 15*. This makes mounting and fastening nuts easier.
Towers are fully welded and super stiff.
I don't think I "need" bed side protection tied into the towers, the towers are that solid.
I'm still adding protection, like a railing.. more simple than originally planned. Hard to explain.
fitting the second gate...
The towers are primed waiting for paint, the second gate still needs hinges welded as well as the latch plates.
This project was way more work than I had originally thought, but it's going to be nice when it's all said and done... I get my bed back!
More to come.
Another update...
Yesterday the weather said evening thunderstorms, so to protect the bare steel, I used weld through zinc primer.
Finished up the gate hinge welds and latch plate welds. Added another gusset for the wheel mounting plate.
Managed to get a couple good coats of DOM16. Another coat tomorrow.
I painted the area around the towers, then realized i should paint the whole thing, but its still covered with dirt... LOL. I'll wash it down tomorrow then give it a good coat to freshen it up before it goes back on the truck.
I want to mount the license plate on the passenger side beside the tire, I'll fab a clamp-on disconnect bracket to remove and place when the gate isn't used.
Now the neighbors can live in silent peace, for a little while longer.
I've been wheeling this gate setup for over a year with zero issues. The latching system is great. I cinch the shortened "eye" bolts down with a breaker bar making it impossible to undo by hand. The eye bolts can be locked down. With the eye bolts cinched down the bumper/gate combo is super ridged, zero banging noise or flex. The eye bolts are a bit tedious to thread down (not a chore...LOL) but I like the secure feeling they provide and low cost design . I'm really happy with the gate and bumper.
When I daily drive, the tire gates are taken off. No real need to drive around town with more weight than I need. The gates easy enough to remove.
The bumper has taken a lot of abuse, recovers and takes rock abuse like a champ. Over time it's has been rusting at the scrapes and gouges. I'll get the whole thing sand blasted this spring and re painted. Again I'll repaint it with DOM-16, then rattle can a few top coats.
There are a few mods I want to add to the bumper like, rear quarter panel protection, open/close lock pin, air chuck mounts for my on board air setup (writeup to come).
Last edited:
4307
Adventurer
Snorkel install:
Ontario trails are known for water holes. Gauging a holes depth isn't always accurate. I'm glad i invested the money in a snorkel.
First the install pics...
The snorkel came in real handy, when I attempted a water hole on one of the trails.
I was the lead truck.
We tossed rocks in the water and poked with a branch, it seemed like it was a couple feet deep.
Well, after diving in, I found it was a little deeper then we first gauged...
And it's a darn good thing I had a snorkel and breathers.
The truck behind me hydro locked his motor (4runner), dead stop! He's swapping in a Lexus motor now, with a snorkel.
Here's some sequence pics and a video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFZ4TiiEG7g
The 4 Runner decided to cross the hole after me.
I turned around to winch him out of the soup. And it was soup!
Ontario trails are known for water holes. Gauging a holes depth isn't always accurate. I'm glad i invested the money in a snorkel.
First the install pics...
The snorkel came in real handy, when I attempted a water hole on one of the trails.
I was the lead truck.
We tossed rocks in the water and poked with a branch, it seemed like it was a couple feet deep.
Well, after diving in, I found it was a little deeper then we first gauged...
And it's a darn good thing I had a snorkel and breathers.
The truck behind me hydro locked his motor (4runner), dead stop! He's swapping in a Lexus motor now, with a snorkel.
Here's some sequence pics and a video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFZ4TiiEG7g
The 4 Runner decided to cross the hole after me.
I turned around to winch him out of the soup. And it was soup!