4d34 turbo advice needed

[PKDreamers]

How is the new exhaust brake compared to the old unit as in is it as effective?

 

[canter tourer]

How is the new exhaust brake compared to the old unit as in is it as effective?

Correct, it's not quite as effective as the old one, i expected this given others experiences, but it still does a good enough job.

The single biggest improvement to my trucks braking has been to disconnect the rear brake valve load proportioning arm and jam it up into the chassis. My brakes had always been very ordinary despite adjustment.

It was only finally noticed that the rear drums weren't getting hot after a hard braking session, they were cold to touch and the fronts hot, this despite the proportioning arm being adjusted to max load.

In a moment of frustration with the garbage brakes, i figured there was nothing to lose and I disconnected it and jammed it up in the chassis and took it for a drive again. Wow, it actually has ok/good brakes now, pulls up nicely and the drums are even temperature to the front under hard braking. Thats where I've left the arm as it works fine.

Dave

 

[kerry]

Got a picture of what you did to the proportioning arm?

 

[canter tourer]

Got a picture of what you did to the proportioning arm?

Here it is, not pretty but functions well.
Essentially it just places maximum upward pressure on the valve and seems to work for me.

Dave

 

[SkiFreak]

Much neater to actually remove it completely.
That's how my truck is setup.

 

[canter tourer]

Much neater to actually remove it completely.
That's how my truck is setup.

Do you mean complete removal of.the valve and replumb the brake lines? That might be an option if i have further issues.

Dave

 

[SkiFreak]

Do you mean complete removal of.the valve and replumb the brake lines?

Yes.

 

[kerry]

Thank you.

 

[SkiFreak]

Here is my setup...




Much cleaner.

Just remove the proportioning valve completely and relocate the male input connector to the female connector on the flexible line.
Obviously, after doing this you will also need to bleed the rear brakes, to get any/all air out of the lines.
Other than that, this mod is pretty much a no brainer.

 

[canter tourer]

Sounds like a simple fix for better brakes, thanks for the info.

Certainly a cleaner effort all round, not to mention how much cleaner you're truck is compared to mine

Dave

 

[PST]

Great info on this thread. I’m about to start the turbo upgrade to my FG439 4d34. I’m feeling far more confident about getting a good result off the back of the learning that has come from the experiments.

 

[PST]

Any advice on the best, cleanest way to lube and cool the turbo on a 4D34?
I was looking to just double-up on the oil feed and drain that is used for the vacuum pump on the back of the alternator. For the water I’m not sure if there is any cleaner or more appropriate way then just doing three way connectors on the heater hoses.
Stock turbo pics looks like there is a oil drain down near the oil filters….

 

[canter tourer]

Any advice on the best, cleanest way to lube and cool the turbo on a 4D34?
I was looking to just double-up on the oil feed and drain that is used for the vacuum pump on the back of the alternator. For the water I’m not sure if there is any cleaner or more appropriate way then just doing three way connectors on the heater hoses.
Stock turbo pics looks like there is a oil drain down near the oil filters….

I kept mine simple and just have oil cooling, I blocked off the water on mine, nothing about my setup is factory.
Oil feed from oil pressure switch in picture and oil drain in sump as pictured.
I know there's pros and cons for this but that is working for me.
Dave

 

[PST]

Fitting up the turbo in the truck to see what space I have to work with. It’s a 92 4D34 on a FG439 so dual oil filters and the oil cooler take up a fair bit of real estate. I don’t have any aircon so that leaves a cavern in front of the intake. The turbo is a kinugawa TD05 with an 8cm rear And 16g compressor (16KX 7+7). I found another oil feed on the side of the block (first photo, bolt in the bottom right just above the alternator) so when the stainless banjo fitting arrives the oil and water will get plumbed. EDIT - There is oil in the bolt hole but it isn’t high pressure. I have a vacuum pump on the back of my alternator so I placed a double banjo bolt in there and piggy-backed off that oil feed. 20 PSI idle and just under 60 PSI at full revs.
An oil pressure sensor will go in line. Will be putting a 3” exhaust on. Have a JRP 14 in1 sensor kit to keep an eye on everything.
The exhaust manifold is from Turbo-glide in NSW, has a T3 interface on it. They can provide with other interface sizes.
Beaudesert Exhaust has a genuine 3” exhaust brake butterfly that they modify so that it works correctly with the vacuum actuator. A true bolt in replacement. I had the valve put on a lathe to take off about 0.8 of a mm in diameter so it will fit into standard 3” exhaust flange plates. Alternatively they have custom flange plates to weld to your exhaust.

 

[PST]

Had the turbo running for a week now. It has been behaving how I expected it to, I‘m after top end boost to maintain highway speed. I’ve never had a problem with low end torque and I’m happy to take my time getting up to speed. As can be seen in my profile, I’m packing an extremely light aluminium tray on the back.
I will wait to give performance info until I have the injectors serviced and the pre-turbo water injection fitted ?.
The three inch exhaust butterfly seems to have identical braking power as the previous 2” stock one.
Managed a passable job of welding the tight 90 on the compressor housing and the lobster/pie cut charge pipe. Still need to put a IAT sensor bung in though.