4d34 turbo advice needed
- Thread starter canter tourer
- Start date
canter tourer
Adventurer
canter tourer
Adventurer
All good, covers off, then unscrew covering cap and all is revealed. Thanks for the help Dan
Dave
Dave
Aussie Iron
Explorer
Yep, I forgot about the covering cap.
Dan.
Dan.
canter tourer
Adventurer
Played with tuning a little bit now, has original 2 1/4 exhaust which is now straight thru with muffler deleted and its not too loud, has a nice whistle at the outlet 1.5 turns on the pump, gets 12.5lb boost and max egts of 550c pre turbo and pulls well to near redline and not smoky.
So i take it there would still be more power available but i cant adjust the boost any higher as I've maxed out the adjustment on the waste gate arm, so without modifying the arm, or fitting a manual boost controller thats it for now.
But to be honest I'm pretty happy with how it performs now, even though its a conservatove tune but it certainly keeps up with traffic now and wish i did it sooner.
Dave
1.5 turns on the pump, gets 12.5lb boost and max egts of 550c pre turbo and pulls well to near redline and not smoky.So i take it there would still be more power available but i cant adjust the boost any higher as I've maxed out the adjustment on the waste gate arm, so without modifying the arm, or fitting a manual boost controller thats it for now.
But to be honest I'm pretty happy with how it performs now, even though its a conservatove tune but it certainly keeps up with traffic now
and wish i did it sooner.Dave
Aussie Iron
Explorer
That's not bad boost and egt is good. Egt will rise if you are in a higher gear and driving up a slight rise and give it a little throttle, that's when I see a rise. A world of DIFFERENCE is what I say.
Dan.
Dan.
canter tourer
Adventurer
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugaw...m=282630696440&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
That's the turbo, will take a look at when max boost arrives when it's next out of shed, currently working on the body for the trip. From memory it is in the upper range, but I will take better note of when it starts to boost etc.
Anyone got an idea of max safe boost to run if I choose to fiddle more? I don't wanna pop the motor....
Dave
That's the turbo, will take a look at when max boost arrives when it's next out of shed, currently working on the body for the trip. From memory it is in the upper range, but I will take better note of when it starts to boost etc.
Anyone got an idea of max safe boost to run if I choose to fiddle more? I don't wanna pop the motor....
Dave
canter tourer
Adventurer
Thanks Amesz, it is intercooled so safe on that score, I'll be keeping a keen eye on egts and see if i get more power hungry after the coming trip. But at this stage I'm a happy camper, though i might order a boost controller and have a play when i get back, and keep dreaming of a set of Dans transfer gears which would go down just nicely and totally transform the truck.....maybe next year, a boy can only hope.
Dave
, and keep dreaming of a set of Dans transfer gears which would go down just nicely and totally transform the truck.....maybe next year, a boy can only hope.Dave
PilbaraFG637
New member
Did you make your own manifold up?
canter tourer
Adventurer
Yes, not something I'd done before, but not too difficult all things considered.
Dave
Dave
PilbaraFG637
New member
Thats what i was going to have a go at, i can weld (not trade qualified though haha) but just wanted to know how you got it started - did you just use an exhaust gasket as template to cut flange and then just weld pipes on to that or did you start with a cut down stock manifold?
Any pics ?
Any pics ?
SkiFreak
Crazy Person
If I were making a custom manifold, without using mandrel bent bends, I would use the existing manifold to get a plan of the mounting face, then draw that up in CAD.
With the CAD drawing I could get a face plate laser cut from 10mm plate, then I would use steam pipe fittings to do the bends. The mounting plates for the turbo could also be laser cut from plate.
Keeping the wall thicknesses as thick as practical would give more thermal efficiency. Tack everything together to ensure correct fit and alignment, then weld it all together.
You should also fillet all of the joins and ensure that you get good penetration with every weld. Depending on the welding method being used, you may have to tack and weld as you go, so you don't end up with joins that you cannot access well.
Not rocket science, if you have some background in metal fabrication/engineering.
With the CAD drawing I could get a face plate laser cut from 10mm plate, then I would use steam pipe fittings to do the bends. The mounting plates for the turbo could also be laser cut from plate.
Keeping the wall thicknesses as thick as practical would give more thermal efficiency. Tack everything together to ensure correct fit and alignment, then weld it all together.
You should also fillet all of the joins and ensure that you get good penetration with every weld. Depending on the welding method being used, you may have to tack and weld as you go, so you don't end up with joins that you cannot access well.
Not rocket science, if you have some background in metal fabrication/engineering.
Aussie Iron
Explorer
I built mine if you wanted to chase up on one of the threads as well. For mounting plate I would go at least 12mm and thicker would be better as you will get less warp-age. If I build another I would pre-load the mounting face surface (to the head) so there would be less dressing to do on the mounting face.
Dan.
Dan.